Civic - Honda :: 2007 - After Rotated Tires Periodic Noise Speed Dependent?
Jul 24, 2011
I took my 2007 (manual!) Honda Civic LX to a local car shop last Friday because it wanted its oil change, oil filter change, tire rotation, and spark plugs etc. checked. When I got the car back, I drove it around for a little while and noticed a noise that is periodic and speed-dependent -- as in, the frequency goes up when I am going faster and slows down when I am going slower.
I've since checked the air pressure and while one tire was a little low, the tires are all at the right pressure now, and the noise hasn't gone away. I also feel like there is more vibration in the steering wheel now than there used to be. I think the sound is coming from the front driver's side, but I'm not sure about that.
Obviously I should take it to the car shop and give the guys the what for, right? But what should I be asking them about? What could have happened? It also happens to be the case that on the 4th of July, someone backed into the front of my car with a moving truck and a couple of parts on the front of the car needed to be replaced. But I had
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I have a 2011 ES 350, 30k miles. Tires were rotated at 23k. Now I am hearing a whooping noise in the front end. Took car back to garage and told them about the noise. They balanced the tires- still having that noise and it gets loader when speed increases.
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I had no clue about this wheel lock feature. People still steal tires?
Anyway, I need to order that one item that will allow the tire people to rotate my tires. What exactly is this part called?
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I bought my 2011 Sonata with 27k miles on it. After a while (few months) I noticed on occasion when turning I would get a screeching/squeal noise from the front tires. Only happened during certain turns (U turns I noticed where higher chance of happening).
I rotated the tires (Front to the rear, Rear to the front), and then there was a loud humming noise. I got it checked with the dealer and they confirmed tires were cupping (uneven treadwear right?) . So now its been 10,000 miles and the noise is the same. I just got an alignment done and there has been not much of a change.
So, other than getting new tires, should I get the tires balanced? Or just rotate them once more so that the rear return to the front again? Will I have to get another alignment done?
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1997 328i 5sp 295k miles
Speed-dependent road noise, mildly pulsating roar as though I were driving a truck, just keeps getting louder as the weeks go by. Completely independent of load. Accelerating, decelerating, coasting, disengaging clutch, has no affect on volume or pitch of noise. Volume and pitch increases with speed. At 20 mph it is noticeable. At 80 mph it is quite annoying. Seems completely independent of road surface.
Rear wheel bearings were replaced about 50k miles ago, and they feel fine.
Front wheel bearings feel perfectly tight.
Replaced all four tires with new Michelin Defenders. That eliminated a low speed whomp-whomp--whomp that turned out to be a cord separation in the front left tire, but otherwise had negligible impact on the road noise.
Changed fluid in transmission and rear end. No change at all in the noise.
I thought that the only thing that would be speed-dependent but load independent would be the driveshaft carrier bearing. I bought a new one, but when I put the car up and exposed the driveshaft, I found that the rear U-joint was bad. Didn't figure the U-joint was my noise, as that would be sensitive to load, but needed to fix it. U-joints are not serviceable so I ordered rebuilt driveshaft which came with a new carrier bearing. Put that in today. Absolutely no change in the noise.
Tranny tail shaft bearing felt tight when I was replacing driveshaft, and no sign of oil leak from there.
All four rear CV joints feel tight, and in any event, noise from those would be load-dependent.
I have been searching the web, and rear shock mounts are often mentioned as possible suspects for road noise, but people rarely post what their problem turned out to be, and I would think that noise from failed shock mounts would be very road surface dependent.
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I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 that recently started to make a loud speed dependent noise from the drivers side front wheel, a quick jab to the right on the steering wheel and it stops, straiten out and it comes back...since I know my shocks are worn and have some cupping on the front tires my first thought was tire noise so I moved the back tire which is evenly worn to the front and no change, next I removed the tire and checked everything visually.
All seems ok, the brake does not seem to be dragging and there is no evidence of a cv problem, everything seems tight, so I'm guessing the problem is a bad wheel bearing? If I grab the tire at 12 and 6 there seems to be excessive movement from top to bottom, there should be none right? If memory serves any movement is indicative of bad wheel bearings? I guess I'm looking for some vindication before getting a new hub?
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Car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
My car was inspected yesterday. I needed the A pipe replaced (exhaust pipe connected to the muffler) and a radiator leak repaired or maybe the radiator replaced. I'm in dire straits, and this was paid for by a charity. I really need my car, as I will have nowhere to stay as of this coming Saturday. Anyway, the repairs were made and the car passed inspection.
I drove off, made a stop somewhere, happened to glance at one of my tires, and noticed deep cracks in it. Odd that I hadn't noticed these before, because I've had trouble with dry rot before. These are top-of-the-line tires (bought back when I had money as an investment against skidding accidents), but they're four years old now.
Granted, I needed it to pass inspection, but would it pass with tires that have dry rot? The first time I had dry rot, the cracks were barely noticeable and had to be pointed out to me. (That time, they were only one year old, within the warranty period and so got replaced.) This time, the cracks are much bigger and deeper, and in all the tires (easy to see, once I looked). Now I'm worried that I'll have a blowout very soon.
Not much I can do about it with no money, but I'd like to at least know what to expect. Seriously, if the cracks are that bad, wouldn't the mechanic fail it for inspection?
Last question: Is dry rot the same thing as weather cracking? Is weather cracking dangerous?
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I don't have my manual in front of me and I was looking for a quick answer to this question. How often should the Touareg's tires be rotated according to VW's recommendations?
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I had them rotated the other week and at 70 I have a vibration. Dealer does not have the right machine. but my local tire shop has always done a great job!!!
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I get a rub sound when I am only going about 5 miles an hour and usually when turning left. I sounds like it is coming from somewhere on the passenger side and near the back. It makes this sound only once in awhile. Sounds like a body rub kind of sound. I have newer tires and they look fine and my shocks appear to be ok. I don't see anything wedged up under there either. This car only has about 88,000 miles on it and is in nice condition best I can tell. It is a 2007 Honda ex sedan.
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I've read from quite a few places online that other 2012 Honda Civic owners were having tires go flat, pop and shred while driving (Granted that this is probably the most common car issue that any one faces). The Honda is my wife's car and is less then a year old. I change her flat and checked the other tires ALL of which were dangerously low on air. Seems strange that so many of the same vehicles with low mileage are reporting having the same issues. (Firestone Affinity Tires)...
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Sunday I had a new set of tires put on my Civic. They told me that one of the four Tire Pressure Monitoring System sensors was bad and that they'd have to order me a new one. I drove home that day with the TPMS light on, which was expected.
This morning I went back to the shop and they replaced the bad sensor. However, after resetting, and doing whatever else it is they did with the handheld computer thing a half-dozen times, the Low Tire Pressure Indicator light is not only on, but blinking. (The TPMS light is off). They drove it around, they checked it with their computer thing again, they plugged in the handheld thing to reset it, went around and did something at each of the tire stems multiple times, but no matter what they did, the light wouldn't (and won't) stop blinking.
"If it doesn't stop on its own, you might have to bring it to a Honda Dealer."
Seriously?
I used to have an old Aurora that would turn on the engine light every time a reading went slightly out of whack, and after so many ignition key turns (on and off) the light would turn off on its own. Is that the case here? Or is this light going to blink forever until I go to the Honda Dealer?
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ok I have a 07 civic with 80k, which I bought used, it seems when i turn the wheel more so to the left at slow speeds like parking or pulling out etc I hear a popping and or clicking noise from the front end it doesnt always happen, but happens enough I took it to my dealer to have everthing checked before a rd trip they told me the boots and all are fine but the joins could be binding, but that its safe to drive and doesnt need to be replaced.
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When I had this set of tires rotated and balanced for the first time I picked up a vibration. I can feel it through the steering wheel and the floor, it starts about 40 or 45 mph. It is not severe but it is annoying. The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus size 215/45-17, they had about 9K miles on them when I had them rotated. Before they were rotated they were as smooth as glass.
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic with about 46,000 miles on it. I purchased the car "certified used" about 1 1/1 years ago. For the past several months I've been experiencing a grinding/crunching noise when I apply the brake in reverse. I've taken it to a Honda dealer and they more or less told me that it sounds like something could have been wrong with the brakes. They ended up telling me they couldn't find anything wrong and that my brakes are fine. I've called the dealer to see if they could look at it again, but now my car isn't under warranty and they'll charge me to look at it. What could be causing this noise? At this point in time it's more annoying than anything - I'm afraid if I let it go it might end up hurting something in the long run.
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I recently went to a local chain to have my oil changed and tires rotated. Later that evening when I went to turn on my headlights for the first time since the oil change neither one was working. When I brought back the car the next day to see if they could look at this to see if anything reset accidentally I was told that both lights were burned out and it was a coincidence. It seems unlikely that both headlights would go out at once (high beams were OK) and that it would have happened right after the oil change. I couldn't say what would have caused this but wanted other opinions on if it was likely related to the oil change.
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My steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
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The tire pressure warning light came on about a week after the tires were rotated (and I assume filled) at the dealer. My son in law checked all 4 tires and they were above 30. Didn't want to fill anymore since I have the green caps. Light is still on. Is it safe to drive on highway at 75/80 mph? How does this light determine low pressure. Why is it still on? No other problem so hate to go to dealer for this but would like the light to go out.
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Just rotated my tires this weekend and noticed today that the steering wheel has a vibration in it at highway speeds, 65-70mph. It did not do this at all before I rotated the tires, why it's doing it now? Tires are fairly new and Bridgestones H/Ts.
I know my rotors are warped and need replaced but the vibration I'm referring to is when I am not braking.
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I just got my car back from discount tire. Every time I accelerate above about 45 mph the traction light goes off Also, There is a shimmy in the brake pedal under braking.
NOW: there is ONE tire that is SMALLER than the rest that they put on or something. It is a different tire, same company, but obviously a bit smaller. Now, they told me it would be fine, despite my better judgement that It would preform weird as well as look slightly gimp. the tire went from driver rear to passenger front, and I'm willing to bet that is the cause of both problems. What should I do?
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I just got new parts replaced in my car and I thought it would run way better but it seems to run worse. I took it in to a mechanics shop that I new. I have a 1990 Honda Civic Si Hatchback and before I he replaced new parts it was running nice. At high speeds after a while it would shake a bit and then the Engine light would turn on. He found out it was the O2 sensor. He has fixed other problems I had before and it made it better but this time I don't know what happened. So this time he replaced my timing belt, O2 Sensor, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Valve cover seals, and just cleaned around the new parts. He said it was very dirty and gross in side my block and other placed. When I got it back from him I drove it around and it felt REALLY sluggish. Its a standard. Normally it would jolt forward because it had a quick acceleration and I learned to control it well but now it has a fixes slow start no matter how hard or far I push down on the gas? Its a lot easier and smoother to change gears because before I would seem my passengers jerk when I changed gears but I did see them do it this time. I have a feeling it's my O2 Sensor. It felt like a sport car before and now it feels like it drives like I'm a old nerves lady.
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