I think I heard this noise before but I didn't pay much attention until a few days ago. I thought the garage door makes that noise when I close the door.
When the engine is off, whenever the last door is closed, the popping noise occurs. The noise gets louder if I close the door harder.
When the engine is on, it's the opposite. The first door opened causes the popping noise.
It's a 07GS350AWD.
My wifes santa fe 2.0t has been a pain.
When turning the car off a popping noise comes from under the gas tank area. The dealer heard in months ago and said its normal. It's still doing it. What could this be?
I also find that her emissions seems to smell very strong when the car is idling in the lane way and the door is open even when the car is warmed up.
I find her rear suspension really rough as well. When she takes bumps in the road the rear suspension hits them hard causing the car to bang when she hits them.
Her gas mileage is 13.4 regardless of driving lightly in the city.
Maybe im just anal but Is any of this normal?
Over the last few weeks I've been hearing what sounds like a failing pump of some sort when shutting off my '06 GX470. The sound lingers for just a moment after the ignition is cut off, and sounds like a loud, very fast tatatatatatatata. It doesn't always do this - sometimes I don't hear anything. I've been commuting in the GX for four years and I've only been hearing this intermittent occurrence over the last 3-5 weeks.
What this might be? Fuel pump? Air leveling suspension pump?
When the car is in a situation where there is a twisting force, such as entering an inclined driveway from an angle, a loud POP is sometimes heard from the rear of the car. The intensity of the POP varies dependent on speed and angle of incline, higher speed/greater incline/decline produce a louder POP.
View 4 RepliesI have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping.
I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. What this is or if this is in need of getting fixed? They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
I have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping. I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
Current suggestions:
• Cracked bearing race. It could be another problem entirely having to do with the suspension mounts or axle mounts but let's hope these new mechanics will figure it out.
• Problem with a wheel bearing
• Struts and suspension components
• Bushings and parts
• Loose upper strut center nut or from loose upper strut mounting nuts
I took it back to a shop but they are thinking the sound is actually coming from the body near the roofing area in the right rear portion of the car. They seem to think based on the sound (metal popping only when that wheel is lower (like coming out of a driveway angled, or going over a pothole)) that it is the metal body but it would cost and arm and a leg to get in to even find out what it was. They assured me that it wasn't impacting the safety of the body and is just a funky sound. The sound is much louder in the car than outside which I think kind of supports their theory. Are they right and it won't impact the safety?
I have noticed since I got the car( 6 months ago), when ever I have passengers in the back seats i hear a clunking noise coming from the right rear suspension area.
( I don't know if this is from the suspension or not and I only notice this noise when there are passengers in the back). The clunking noise is really annoying.
Last week I had my car visited the dealer due to left rear shock leaked which was replaced under warranty...
This weekend is the first time that I took the car out for a drive... When I got home, I noticed the left rear wheel area is covered with grease... I don't know where it came from... look like brownish goo... I splashed around the inner side of the wheel and also cover part of the rear brake caliper, brake line, and control arms.
What kind of grease is this?? Where is the grease came from???
My GS is all stock... No modification.... Currently has 62K on it.
All these years I never really concentrated on the noise coming from the dash area on wires car until she started complaining about it saying "A Lexus should not have these mysterious creaking noises!" and now it bugs the crap outta me each time I have to drive the car!
A friend told me he took his IS to the dealer 3 times on this issue and they ended up tearing the entire dash off twice to locate this issue on his. Supposedly it had something to do with the plastic dash clips or something that held it together?
Have any of you experienced this issue and did they fix it for you on a warranty basis? My warranty is expired so don't know what they would rape me with to look into this irritating noise and fix the problem? Now that the Mrs. complains about it all the time its gonna be one of those "honey do" tasks I am saddled with Im sure!
I just purchased a 2009 Hyundai Elantra a few months ago.. I have been hearing a rattling/ clunking noise around the rear glass area. I brought it to a local dealership and they thought that it was the bracket for the trunk lid rods. They replaced the bracket and the noise is still there..
View 3 RepliesI have a new 2016 ES350 and I hear a strange electric motor type sound coming from the LT rear wheel /wheel well area when the car is off (was parked outside and was turned off 5 hours before I noticed the noise). I couldn't figure out what was making the noise, it lasted about 3 minutes after I noticed it before it stopped.
View 2 RepliesI have a 08 r32, hearing a popping noise that sound like its coming from fuel tank. When sitting not running in garage, bout 15 to 20 seconds between pops. Maybe evap system? Just notice after filling up with gas.
View 4 RepliesSome customers may experience a buzz or slight rattle noise from the rear portion of the headliner when the vehicle hits small sharp bumps. It has been determined that the source of such a rattle may be the Tire Pressure Warning System (TPWS) antenna located above the headliner between the rear of the sliding roof opening and the top of the back glass.
Well, after a few months of frustration hearing a buzzing in the back seats, i notice this bulletin on the 07 ES and I've tested on my 08 car and it is the same, simply tapping on the roof liner or pulling it and releasing it makes a buzzing sound. Even when i tap on the glass roof, the buzzing sound is resonating. Would the dealer rectify this issue if my car is a 08 ? I'm still under warranty.
I have a 1990 Toyota 4-Runner, manual 5-speed transmission. About a week ago, while shifting gears, I heard a loud "popping" noise from the general vicinity of the clutch. I did not feel anything different in the clutch, it returned to the appropriate position and didn't feel any more or less "loose." However, after the "pop" it seemed difficult to get the vehicle into first gear and second gear, and I really had to "push" it to get it into gear, but it would not grind or anything else. Also, when shifting into reverse, it would grind loudly and be very difficult to get into reverse gear. If I turn the vehicle off, put it in reverse and then start the car, it works fine, though it seems like it "sticks" longer in reverse and takes a bit more muscle to get it out of reverse and into first again.
Additionally, when the shifter is in first gear, but the clutch is pressed, it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging entirely, because the car wants to move forward slightly when I take my foot off the brake, almost as if I'm letting my foot off the clutch a bit with it in gear. All of this has been happening pretty regularly, but the car has still been driving fine. However, today, the poor thing wouldn't start. This vehicle (like many manual transmissions) needs to have the clutch pedal pressed in order to start the vehicle. Even when I press the clutch all the way to the floor, the car won't start (and I know it is not a starter/battery issue). Given the other problems with the clutch and shifting gears, it almost feels as if the clutch was not getting disengaged all the way even when the pedal was pressed to the floor, and now that it won't start, I'm wondering what is going on. Does this model have a linkage adjuster that needs fixing? Is it something wrong with the clutch fluid? Or do I need a new clutch entirely?
When I parked my car in the garage this evening, I noticed a definite "gurgling" noise and my first thought was that it was most likely coming from the coolant reservoir (even though it was cool outside and I wasn't driving hard at all before parking it). However, when I checked under the hood, it was obvious that the sound was not coming from that location (and the coolant looked OK/normal).
I followed the sound to the back of the car and it definitely seemed to be coming from the right (passenger) side rear area of the car (possibly the gas tank). I removed the gas cap but there was no pressure built up and the noise continued -- I also checked under the car and nothing was leaking anywhere and there was no odor of gasoline.
So, when I searched the R32 FAQ, the only thing that sounded close was that possibly is was the leak detection pump cycling; but the FAQ made no mention of a gurgling noise and there was none of the clicking (or any other sound along with this gurgling) that seems typical of the leak detection system.
There is the possibility that the car could have made this sound in the past but it was pretty obvious to me this time so I think I would have noticed it if it had occurred previously. One other note, I did fill the gas tank during the drive right before I parked it and heard this noise, but I drove probably 12 miles (including twice turning off the motor) between the gas fill-up and parking it in my garage.
I brought my 2011 GS350 in today for the dealer to fix the rattling noise coming from the dashboard after 2.5 hrs of waiting the car was fixed and I drove it to work and the rattling was minimal but tonight after work it was really cold I drove the car home and the rattling noise seem like it coming from the dashboard area near the windshield and the noise was more noticeable than this morning right after i left the dealer.
I just bought the car on March 3, 2015 so far loving the ride but the rattling noise makes me worry. The car is still under factory warranty until March 29th 2015 I am hoping they can correct the problem before the warranty expires.What should I do next?
I just bought a 09 Corolla S a month ago. In the last few days I've been hearing a popping/knocking noise while I'm driving. It sounds like it is coming from one of the wheels but which one. It usually happens once I decelerate or driving at low speeds. If I brake the noise will stop. The rhythm of the noise doesn't seem to be consistent with speed I'm driving. It happens more often on bumpy roads but it still happens on smooth roads. I'm wondering what are the possible problems that are could cause this?
I don't know if this would relate to the sounds I mentioned but when I bought this car it had brake problems. It would grind pretty loud. The dealership ended up replacing new rear drums. So when I drove it home everything sounded good for about a week. The grinding noise came back and after I sprayed some brake cleaner it went away for a few days. I'm assuming thats what the dealership did to hide the noise. I went ahead and changed the front pads and that worked for a week or so...but the grinding noise is back. I was about to change my rotors this weekend when the popping/knocking sound I mentioned above started happening.
I had the struts replaced a few months ago along with the strut mounts and bearings. Since then I've developed a popping and clunking noise from the passenger side spring/mount area. I've greased it and it has quieted it down but I noticed that when the car is not moving and I turn the wheel from lock to lock that very top piece of the strut pretty sure it's called the hat moves along with the wheels while the drivers side does not. What's wrong? Is it something as simple as the nut being to lose or to tight?
View 3 RepliesGot a 1999 ford f150 2 wheel drive. I have replaced both upper and lower control arms with ball joints on both sides. New shocks, new stablelizer links, new inner and outer tie rod ends. Also, a new steering gear and i still have popping noise coming from both sides around the wheel area when i enter or leave out of drive ways, turning, or running in a hole. Doesn't do in going straight. I don't know what else to do. Driving me insane. I keep spending money on this truck and still where i first started.
View 9 Replies99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
I purchased a 2010 Hyundai Blue 6 months ago. After one month of driving the rear suspension area would pop when placed in a bind. The sound will happen when going over a bump, through a dip in the road, when turning sharply..... The pop is more of a large loud twinging sound. I have taken it to the dealership three separate times with no fix.
First time, they stated my license plate was loose and creating the noise. I pulled out at the dealership, and the sound happened again. Took it back and then they stated they heard it, but did not know what it was. Took it a 3rd time, and they informed me they changed the shock on the driver side. The sound is still there. My husband states they lower the exhaust system but did not change the shock.
What this is caused by. I notified the dealer that it was still happening, and they asked me to bring it back and drive around with the tech in the car so they can observe it. Bad part is, it doesn't happen all the time. I can't make it happen. I want my car fixed. I do like it.