Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Knocking Noise From Fan
May 4, 2015
How do you tighten the fan....My is knocking cause it's loose.
View 1 RepliesHow do you tighten the fan....My is knocking cause it's loose.
View 1 RepliesKnocking noise on car, mechanic says front struts needed (07 with 110k). Whats the cheapest place to order? He couldn't get them aftermarket. Also need the upper mounting plate?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2006 lexus gs300 rwd and my check engine light came on the code P0021 and the check VSC light is on as well and a knocking noise i checked my engine level and seems to be fine but thats just because im always adding oil since its burning a quart every 500 miles which is a lot so whats going on here? Also my idle seems to drop when at a light any one know about recalls on these cars?
View 4 RepliesOk, I've been hearing the strangest noise under my car for awhile now. It sounds for all the world like a drum stick is hanging by a rope, swinging back and forth, and hitting against something solid. It makes 3-4 loud taps and the vibration can be felt through the gas pedal/floorboard. It ONLY happens when pulling out while turning left or right and going over a rough entrance like a rain gutter that bounces the car pretty decent. So whatever it is doesn't start swinging under normal driving. For the life of me I can't imagine what could be that heavy to make noise like that and not be causing any other problems.
View 4 RepliesPontiac G6 06 Knock Knock. My car is making a knock knock noise from the right front end. It almost sounds like an extension cord plug in end hitting against the wheel well. (Had that happen before with old car's engine heater, this car doesn't have one of those) The noise stops when i break, and I only notice it is driving under 25 mph. I looked under and couldn't see anything hanging or loose.
View 2 RepliesFew days ago I noticed the noise coming from the engine.
Went to dealership. They removed the oil pan and found metal shavings there .The car has 90,000 miles. They will put a new short block (will be covered by warranty ).
Since they basicaly will disassemble the whole engine, I thought to ask them to replace also drive belts, timing chain tensioner, not sure if the short block comes with the water pump , will ask them . W
The engine in my 2006 Mazda Tribute seems to have developed a knocking noise. I am not sure what causes it or how to determine where it is coming from.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata GL, 2.4L, manual transmission, with about 130K miles. It has recently developed a knocking noise. The noise sounds metallic.
Some data: timing chain, guides, tensioner are all new, the noise is not coming from there.
Compression tests on the 4 cylinders came back with 200, 200, 180, and 200 psi readings. Tests were performed 3 different times, same gauge, all numbers came back the same.
The noise comes on only under acceleration (gas is supplied), and even then it's not consistent. For example, accelerating at 2500 rpm will make the noise, but the noise will go away at, say, 3000 rpm, while accelerating. Then again, the same thing can happen at 3200 rpm: accelerating will cause the noise, but up to a point, beyond which the noise goes away.The noise is not present at idle. I can always make the noise heard, just not consistently at the same rpm range.
I ran the engine with one spark plug disconnected at a time: the noise goes away when the #3 cylinder spark is disconnected.
Opinions vary: wrist pin, piston slap, rod bearing, etc.
Any tests I could run to narrow the problem? It has been difficult to pinpoint where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope...
Oil changes have been very regular (3.5K), using Mobil 1. Nevertheless, it has been burning oil.
Just got my 2013 CPO GS350 and love it. I did notice this morning a tapping or ticking noise, like a diesel engine would make, as the car warmed up. Anything to be concerned about or can that be normal for a GS? Also, are there any recalls or TSBs I should check into for this car?
View 14 RepliesI replaced my struts and shocks a few weeks ago and i installed lowering springs H&R. Yesterday i started hearing this knocking thumping noise coming from the right front of the car me and my uncle took the wheel off today and looked around and everything was nice and tight we proceed to both push down on the right corner of the car to have it bounce up and down and we heard the same knocking sound coming from the right front area it sounds almost as if the strut blew out in the front right would the symptoms i described concur with the front strut being blown out, and on a side note the struts are only a few weeks old is this even possible since the struts are so new? I do have 20" rims on the car with low profile tires could i have hit a pothole hard enough to cause the strut to blow out? Iam planning on taking a trip to the dealer tomorrow and have them check it out.
View 2 RepliesI didn't know my car was low on oil and the oil light never came on. The car has been working flawlessly till I got home and I heard a really weird knocking noise and it's a light knocking noise when the car is idling but when I press the gas pedal the noise becomes louder. The noise sounds like its internal it's coming from behind the engine near the exhaust manifold where the spark plugs are located. I have changed the spark plugs and drained and added new oil into the car but that still didn't fix the issue. The car has about 129,625 miles on it and is in mint condition buying a new engine would be pointless knowing that the value of the new engine is basically the value of buying another used car.
Car: Hyundai Sonata 2008 GLS 2.4l
My 2009 Sonata 2.4l Sonata has been making a loud knocking noise when it is cold, but it will fade to almost nothing after it warms up. I tried to make a sound clip of the noise, but it was so distorted that I could not even make out the noise on the video.
For some strange reason the noise matches the skipping problem I have been complaining about since the beginning. Yea it's still there. It sounds like it is in the valve system, not the lower end. It leads me to believe it's coming from the valve clearance/ camshaft area.
so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
What the defective part could be? GS300 has run 90.000km, sound can be recognized by passing for example gullys or small bumps with speed of ~20km/h. Increasing speed let the sound disappear. I have already replaced stabilizer bar bushes, link assy and lower ball joint assy.
Attached a linked sound file [URL] .....
It's a 2006 hyundai sonata LX.
Now Is it anything I should worry about? Car has 72000 on it. Always used synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30.
This is on a completely cold start up, 30 degrees outside. Only makes the noise until car warms up. Anything I can do to prevent this? Or is it not something to worry about? Should I just let the car warm up a little before I drive it?
[URL]...............................
2006 Sonata 2.4 GLS. My car has done 60000 miles and has developed a creaking/knocking (metal on metal clunk) sound at the left rear. it is only noticeable at low speeds when accelerating and decelerating in stop start traffic.
It is not the shock as I have removed the shock and driven the car and the noise is still there, I have also looked at all the bushes and nothing is obvious. I have also checked tightness of all bolts/nuts.
I have a 2007 elantra. I drove it for a while, then my ma needed a car (her tercel was a little unsafe) so I traded her. She loves the car, but as sometimes is the case, her dealer is not very nice. She has a severe side to side knocking noise in the steering- can be easily duplicated by sitting with the car idling and turning the wheel back and forth, even a little. Doesn't correspond with driving over bumps unless the wheel is inadvertently turned by the bump. If the suspension is unloaded (front wheels off the ground), noise disappears. No EPS lights, no codes in any system.
Listened with a stethoscope inside the car- not that loud through column within car. Inner and outer tie rods are tight, noise is not heard loudly with stethoscope through struts, upper mounts, lower arms. Under the car with loaded suspension (rhino ramps), noise is deafening in the rack, with a stethoscope. Dealer told her it needs a steering rack, I definitely understand why they would say that as the noise is clearly audible through the aluminum housing directly below the entrance of the column shaft into the rack. Only TSB I found was for a worm shaft flexible coupling, but the TSB says this is bump related.
I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
View 2 RepliesWhile driving today, 2006 Ford F-250 5.4 L V8 138,000 miles , I experienced a problem. Started with the truck acting as if it was running rough, possibly missing. This was approx. 10 Minutes after starting. Checked the dash, no warning indicators and all gauges were normal. Approx. 4 more miles, the oil pressure alarm signals and I see the oil gauge has dropped to zero. I pull over, turn off and check the oil. Oil is clean and at a normal level. I restart the truck and the oil pressure goes back to normal.
Rev the truck up while sitting there and after a few seconds i hear a knocking noise in the engine and oil pressure drops again. Call the tow truck, driver used to be a mechanic . He asks me to start it again and the same thing happens. If you start it and let it idle oil pressure seems to go up to normal with no engine noise. Finally get to the mechanic and he calls me later saying the oil pump and screen may need to be replaced or the engine may need to be replaced.
Last few weeks I've been getting a bit of a whine getting into car. I thought it was a wheel bearing but I've discovered its wind noise from the sun roof.
My question is is the glass roof easy to get out and is there a aftermarket seal available as i suspect oem one will be arm and leg.
I just spent about $600 on front Lexus Oem struts, Front Strut mounts and labor to try to cure a knocking sound that developed recently. My 2007 GS350 has 84K miles on it. Figured it was time and I had a 50% off labor coupon from Pepboys so it wasn't bad.
Unfortunately that did not cure the problem so I figure it was the upper control arm, but the whole front end was solid. I decided to take one of the Moog sway bar end links off that I just put in and drive around. The noise was completely gone!! So it appears that I had a defective sway bar end link!!!
So before you guys start swapping out front end parts for a suspension noise which is what I've seen when I searched the forum, start with the cheapest one, the end links. Take out the side that makes the noise and drive around to see if the noise goes away. BTW it is safe to drive with one missing. I was able to drive normally with it off.