Lexus IS 2014+ :: Sluggish To Up-shift Until Engine Warms Up
Jun 4, 2014
Having shifting issues with their 350? I have a 2014, AWD F-sport and ever since I got it about 4k miles ago, it's been sluggish to up-shift until the engine warms up. It commonly takes me 2 or 3 flicks of the paddle (or stick) to upshift into any gear and this is during very easy acceleration too (I would never romp on it until the engine is fully warmed up).
I would at least understand if it was on downshifts as maybe a way to protect the engine from revving too high when it's cold but it's actually doing the opposite by temporarily preventing me from lowering the revs. I've also always had a car with a manual transmission so I don't know if this is typical for shiftable automatics or not but it seems weird to me.
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2016 IS300.
I've had it for 4 days now, and I've never had a brand new car so maybe this is a moot point. But the car simply feels heavy and sluggish. I'm at a little over 300 miles and the car just doesn't have much zip compared to my 2010 IS. Also, when I had the clear bra done at Lexus they gave me an identical loaner (2016 IS300 AWD) with around 800 miles and it felt totally different.
I remember with my 2010 reading that the car has to "learn" how you drive, etc. With my 2016 it'll go from a dead stop, them a couple of shifts in it drops to a super low gear. Even in sport mode it feels sluggish. In ECO mode... Well, lets just say that feels laughable.
Why was my loaner (which was identical to my new car) much zippier in the normal mode? Is this something I should be concerned about? The car runs fine, just no zip (yet).
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I didn't pick up the Raptor--passed on it for other reasons. I still have my 2010 that I bought with an extended warranty--I'm too old to play with them anymore and rather have everything covered.
When I bought my truck it was a factory certified pre-own so I got the 100k warranty plus an extended bumper-bumper coverage.
With that said I have the 5.4L engine and I've noticed here recently that's it is quite sluggish at times. I've read and most say put a tuner on it--in the past I would be all over that. My old 6L Diesel had a tuner but of course during that time I was all for blowing up engines and replacing them. Now not so much.
I noticed that the previous owner threw a damn Airaid intake on it -- I feel like the Airaid is really screwing crap up. I'm wondering if I should just buy the pieces I need to go back to a stock airbox?
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Engine ticking not there when its cold but when it warms up, it gets louder.
I took a 3 hour drive to Memphis, TN and when I got there, the ticking was gone. it sounded like it brand new with 0 miles. I opened up the hood to see maybe it just quieted down but no, it was gone. if you put your ear to the engine cover you can hear the direct injection but faintly.
check the video - Ticking 08 gs350 awd - YouTube
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When it gets hot outside and the car warms up (15 mins or so of highway driving), the stick gets extremely hard to move and it doesn't go back to center when it's out of gear. So I could push it all the way left or right without putting it in a gear, and it would stay there, it wouldn't pop back to the center like it should. It becomes really annoying and difficult to drive because it gets so stiff and hard to move, what could be causing the problem? I've already adjusted the shift linkage and that didn't work.
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I bought a 2003 Ford Ranger, 2.3, 5 speed manual. It is hard to shift after it warms up. I test drove it when it was below freezing, so I didn't notice it at first. The warmer the day and quicker the truck warms up, the worse it is. It goes into gear with no problem when the engine is off or if I'm still moving, but if I'm stopped there are times it is hard to get into gear. This really sounded like a clutch that wasn't fully disengaging to me, so I decided to pull it apart. I didn't check the movement at the slave before I started, but I did find the master was a little wet at the rod in the cab.
So, I did the following:
- New clutch master cylinder (system bled out of truck to eliminate air)
- New slave cylinder and bearing
- New pilot bearing
- Changed transmission fluid - Mercon III ATF
I inspected the clutch/pressure plate and it was in good shape and looked like it might have had 10K - 20K miles on it. The last owner said it was recently replaced and it looked it. So, I put it back in. After I was done, I checked the movement at the slave/pressure plate and it is moving about 3/8" - 1/2" when the pedal is down. I was happy and thought this would solve the problem since the old pilot bearing seemed stiff and I saw the leak on the back of the master cylinder.
I drove it and all felt fine at first, but it was a cool day and I didn't drive it that long. When it was warmer over the next couple of days, it started getting hard to shift again. It's not been quite as bad as before, but still doesn't shift right.
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Model is 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7L
A month ago I started noticing it was sluggish to shift from P to R/D but i had no issues starting in P mode and the car would drive fine. I thought it might due to cold weather so didn't think of it too much.
Two weeks ago it was really hard to shift the gear from P mode and I nearly got stuck in middle of the road unable to shift from R to D. I applied a lot of force on the shifter and it finally budged into D and car drove with no issues. I parked and did my chores came back and the car would not start at all.I put the car in N and it started and was hard to shift back in D but I drove home without any other issues.
It died again in my drive way but this time the gear was nearly impossible to shift and I thought I almost broke it and the panel was not registering it was in P and the key was stuck in the ignition. After messing around for some time I was able to get it into N and put my hand brake on left the key in the ignition and disconnected the battery.
Today I opened the center console & battery tray these are my findings. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position.
1. The shifter moves freely once the linkage is disconnected by removing the tiny pin.
2. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position. Once I manually adjusted it I was able to start the car.
3. I reconnected the linkage pin, make sure the inhibitor switch was in N position and started the car but it was again nearly impossible to switch to P/R/D
4. My brake lights work fine.
5. I was able to remove the key once I completely disconnected the battery.
What can be the issue here ? Inhibitor switch ? The shifter assembly ? Linkage?
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Earlier this year, I worked with my dealer to get a new automatic transmission for my 2007 Accent. I had only had the car for a couple months (purchased used, from my Grandmother who I knew, if anything, had probably been TOO gentle with it.) Only about 40,000km. I found the car extremely hesitant to shift on cool mornings, and allowing the engine to warm up first didn't make much difference. The 2-3 shift was especially late.
The last straw was when, on a frosty morning, the transmission failed to engage 3rd, bucked back out to find 2nd again, and then got 3rd on the next try. It did this a couple of mornings before I was done negotiating with the dealer, who ultimately agreed to supply a new transmission if I paid labour. This despite the car being just outside the 5-year powertrain warranty. I was quite satisfied.
So I enjoy the Summer with no problems -- only the barest hint of transmission "morning sickness", but only if I'm rushing it. I figure "that's an economy car for you". Now that cooler Fall weather has begun, I'm convinced that the new transmission behaves the same way as the first one. I haven't had the "bucking out of gear" problem yet, but the 2-3 shift is already a real dog on cool mornings.
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2003 3.0 FFV 5 speed automatic...... Just noticed recently that it seems slow to go into 2nd gear.....the rest of the shifts seem fine, firm and unchanged.....
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VW Rabbit 09 - Makes a loud noise coming from the back of the car, at first I suspected exhaust, but it does not get louder from hitting the gas. The noise gets louder the faster car moves starting around 20 mph. It sounds like it is running at high RPMs but the tachometer does not read over 3000 RPM. There is no check engine light on currently, in the past the light has come on after driving through puddles and then the car could not shift into the higher gears and would be stuck at 40 mph.Eventually, it would resolve itself. I have inspected the exhaust but I can not see anything that would cause the noise. The transmission does seem a little sluggish to shift, but it is a smooth shift.
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Today I parked my 2014 Toyota Corolla while the shift was in drive and I turned off my engine. I let go of the brakes and it began to move backwards. I then realized what happened and shifted to Park and took out the keys and turned the engine back on to park it correctly. The on screen display seemed to restart or something when I did so. Will this hurt my vehicle? It is a CVT transmission by the way.
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Just left my lexus dealer after getting an oil change. When I go WOT with the car in auto mode (whether or not in sport mode), it is very sluggish to downshift and when it finally does downshift, will accelerate very slowly above 4,000 rpm...almost no power.
In manual mode, no issue, accelerates great. All fluids are fine and no CEL. Gonna take it back to dealer in a few minutes.. Dealer has no clue what would cause the issue, they did not reset the ECU or do anything other than change oil and filter.
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I recently traded in my 2013 Audi TTRS in a very limited edition color. For my 2008 Lexus ISF... With 71k Miles. And I feel as if the car is very sluggish and up shifts are slow even with sport mode on! My buddy has an ISF as well and he even said mine shifts slower than his. I was wondering if maybe the previous owner skipped a few key maintainence things to cause such an issue. And yes I know how to drive a care, yes it's in sport mode and yes the vehicle is warmed prior to stupidity. The last recorded maintenance was at 60K miles.
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I have a 2014.5 Camry SE 4CYL 29K . Lately the car has been running so sluggish, it almost seems like it has lost power. Acceleration from stop or while driving seems to be a burden almost like if i was towing a boat. I have 5k since since my last oil change, and have the KNN drop-in air filter, so dirty air filter is not the problem. Not to forget that I always pump 91 octane from chevron. Why this would be?? ( should i have them change the spark plugs?) or could this be due to the transmission?
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Experiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
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I bought a 2011 Ecoboost F150 last week. I test drove the crap out of it, and was pleased with it. Go figure, get it home and within a few days, when I put a little foot into it to respond to a call (vol. firefighter) it does the crazy buck me around bit. I do some looking around here and get a little paranoid about the water ingestion thing. It did throw make the CEL flash for 30 secs or so. Then I dig some more and see these things eat spark plugs. I am sitting at 86k miles on it, so I figure, let's try the simple first.
I go pick up some Motocraft plugs and within two mediocre innings of listening to the Angels play, I am finished. I take it out for a test drive, and oh my goodness... the difference. I couldn't get it to buck around or anything. I got on the highway and really got on it, to test and see... no problems whatsoever. Checking the gap on the plugs that came off, they were all between .045 and .050. Moral of my first post.... don't underestimate the importance of the basic maintenance items.
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My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
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When speeds are 40-50 mph range and then back off a bit to get back up to speed it reacts very slow. Will get up to highway speeds on an easy acceleration, but when I try to get back up to speeds quickly or catch up then truck is sluggish and slow to react. Was told it may be a stretched drivetrain? Is that possible?
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The audio system sound in my 2005 GX470 suddenly quit working properly.
When first starting the car, I have no sound from any of the system sources (am/fm radio; tape; cd player). After the heater warms up the car, usually about 5-6 minutes, the sound comes on and all sources work fine.
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2001 Grand am 2.4. Runs fine when the engine is cold but when it warms up the idle is rough. When throttle is added from idle, RPM's drop, it hesitates, then either stalls or goes. Car runs just fine when there is a load on the engine (highway speeds). Sometimes it will even stall coming onto off ramps off the freeway. It intermittently shifts hard. SES light is on p0108. Have replaced the MAP sensor and checked for vacuum leaks, still have the light and the same problems.
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Recurring intermittent problem with the AC. It has been in and out of the shop three times in the past year. First time, a basic checkup with service to specs. Worked okay for six weeks or so. Second time, revolution sensor replaced. Worked okay for a little over six months. Next time, revolution sensor replaced under warranty. No change - problem still there. Dealer shop wants to replace compressor/clutch assembly. I'm not convinced. The problem only occurs in the morning after the engine has been at rest overnight .
No AC until the engine warms up and the engine is switched off and then on again. You can check it after a few minutes and no AC. Shut down the engine after 20 minutes or so, turn it back on, AC is good and will be good for the rest of the day, even if the engine is at rest for a few hours. Next morning, same drill. There is a three wire connector at the clutch with one black wire running to the clutch. I am unsure what voltage I can check there to see if the system is calling for clutch engagement. How I can narrow it down to clutch/compressor malfunction or some other sensor problem?
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