Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Rear Brakes Locked Up When Put The Car In Drive
Feb 2, 2014
I have a 2013 RX 350. Over the past few weeks I have taken the car to the car wash at night to get the salt off, the next morning when I get in and start the car put the car in drive the rear wheels are locked up, It appears the froze over night due to the extreme cold we have been having. I rock the car back and forth and eventually they release with a loud pop. I actually have a 10ft tire mark in my driveway. I have been told this is common on Toyotas. The car only has 10,000 miles on it and it only happens after being washed and sitting over night in very cold temps.
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I have a 2010 Gx460. The rear door has now become locked shut and will not unlock. When I hit the unlock button on the door all I get is flashers with a few beeps. What can I do?
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When I drive over quick choppy bumps in pavement I get a rattle in the rear of the suspension, but only when the bump is on one side. When the bump is long and activates both rear wheels, like a speed bump or a large road crack I don't get the rattle.
The sound seems to be worse on the right side and I can't really figure it out. Anything specific I should look out for?
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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Today while getting gas, I found the car locked after I filled up. (2012 Rx 350) The key and fob were in my bag on the passenger seat. Luckily, the window was open, so I could reach in and unlock it. But I thought the car was not supposed to lock if the fob is inside...??
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This morning I went out to my RX450h in the garage and found the doors locked. I normally leave the fob in car in the door handle when parked in the garage and was surprised it was locked. Last night when I got home I did the usual...parked the car, got out of car leaving fob in handle. Did not lock car...just got out laving fob in car sitting all by itself on door handle. Came out this morning with all the doors locked and could not open until I went back in to get the spare. Once in the car I checked the fob and appeared to be functioning okay...meaning no signs of low battery. What caused this to happen?
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I have a '13 GS with the Luxury Package that has the rear seat climate & radio controls. I'm not sure if there is an issue or if the system is locked....Of the rear controls everything related to audio portion works correctly...Now if I try to turn on the heated seats, or change the temperature, or blower speed none of those work as they should.
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I like to warm up the car in my driveway with the doors locked.My new 2013 rx 350 does not allow me to lock doors with engine running. Is there something i am missing?I want to lock doors with the engine running.
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I bought a 2012 prius 4 with 42k miles recently. The car is just too loud. I've determined the "noise" to be the rear hatch bouncing when I drive over small bumps in the road. The bounce creates an air pressure change that is just too unacceptable. I've milled the hatch lock mechanism's holes into slots to I can close the hatch tighter. This made a little improvement. My next step will be to add some gasket material on the hatch itself so it closes tighter. My slots allow the hatch to bottom out so I had to back off the adjustment a bit.
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The transmission went out on my 2006 gs300 it is a rear wheel drive car but i am having a hard time finding anything but an awd transmission for that year. Where I can get one? Or I was talking to a mechanic and he was saying the the only difference between the two trannies is a adapter to go from awd to 2 wheel drive cars so I might be able to use an awd trans and pull the adapter of.
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The uneven wear occurred again, this time only giving me 22,644 miles on the rear brakes. So, I am on my third set of rear brakes at 78,000 miles.
This time the dealer contacted the district rep since this was a repeat occurrence. It turns out a week after my first rear brake job, Toyota issued T-SB-0248-12, for this very problem, on the 2010 - 2012 Prius and on the 2012 Prius PHV. There is a new brake pad that is supposed to address this problem. The old part number that was put on my car during the first brake job was 04466-76011 and the new part number is 04466-47080. The receipt also shows Brake Shim Grease part number 08887-80409, which is noted in the TSB.
Toyota did the right thing in that they covered the cost of the brake job I just had done. I just opened a case asking to be reimbursed for the first brake job since this turned out to be a problem that was addressed with a new part.
I suggest anyone with a 2010-2012 Prius or 2012 Prius PHV that needs rear brakes, make sure you insist on getting this updated pad and point out this TSB. My service adviser said they were going to replace all of their pads with the old part number with the updated pad, so other customers going forward receive this new pad, though he also said they just don't do a lot of Prius brake jobs.
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I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid. The rear brakes are shot after 70K, but the fronts have 80% left. Id there anything unique about this hybrid that would cause this, or should I look elsewhere for this unusual wear pattern.
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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Today while switching out the winter tires, I noticed it took significant effort to rotate the rear wheels, both of them. There is a binding noise I heard when I rotated each of the wheels as though the brake pads are rubbing against the rotors. Would it be OK to take it into Sears for a brake pad/caliper check and possible cleaning/lubing of these? Or are these components so unlike those on other vehicles that I should have the dealer check them out?
This was the first time I did the switching of the tires, so I don't know if the wheels have been bound for a long time. Also, in the middle of winter, suddenly the MPG rose for a few days (the vehicle seemed to move easier as well) and then went down. I am now suspecting the binding brakes on the rear might be the issue.
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I'm not sure if this is the proper operation of the disc brakes because all my cars in the past were front disc and rear drum. A search turned up nothing useful so here I am.
To me, the sensation I'm having is the rear brakes are activating before the front. I sense the rear going down before the front. I don't hear any squealing or grinding. I also don't feel any vibration while braking. Perhaps it's a sensory illusion? Or is this the normal operation of disc brakes?
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It is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
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The car is under 25k miles. I have owned for less then 2 years. Recently, I notice a noise coming from the rear every time backing out the drive way. The sounds louder in the winter**. I have gone to 3 different dealers and non of them offered a remedy. Some say they cant reduplicate the issue so I scheduled a test drive with a tech. Was able to duplicate the issue, however the tech says its normal ( pad shift over time) and told me a lot of the newer carmy has the issue. I'm exhausted from going dealer to dealer and no remedy issue. They all said the same thing "its normal & there's nothing they can do".
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I recently bought a CPO 2007 GX 470 with 110k miles. At no charge dealer made repairs re the Bulletin about clunk in rear when I slowly drive over speed bumps. Had all front and rear shocks raced with OEM shocks, and four new Michellin MS2 tires installed. Rear end still feels like is is bottoming out sometimes during regular local and freeway driving when going over different times of road bumps.
My 'i89 a Dodge Ramdharger ( only car I ever bought brand new off the lot ) with 174k miles and old shocks and original springs drives better over bumps and speed bumps than the GX. One Lexus dealer said the reason is because the rear air bags ( that are not leaking )do not fill up fast enough when going move bumps and that can cause the bottoming out feeling. My mechanic is going to check it over again. What could be causing the bottoming out feeling?
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Put the driver side rear seat down and now it won't come back up. It feels as though the latch isn't connected yet I can see the cable wrapped on it still. Need to tear into it... do the backs of the seats pop off?
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So there I was, a very proud owner of my new Touareg driving down to DIA (Denver airport) to pick up my mates from England and show off the new motor, After I pick them up I push the gear lever button in and try and move it out of drive - it jammed solid. The button would not come out after I had pushed it in and the gear lever would only move from Drive to Neutral and I could not get the key out of the ignition. I had to get my mates to push it backwards while I had the car in neutral. Managed to drive it directly to McDonald Automotive in Littleton. They gave me a loaner car within half an hour and fixed the car by noon the next day. I guess the mechanism inside the gear lever was not assembled correctly from the factory.
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91 F-150 4x4 with AOD. OD,D,1st gear. The truck will idle fine, but when I put it into gear it seems like it is locked in in either drive or reverse. Its hard to stop at lights or stop signs and boggs the engine down and has no low end power. When in neutral it is fine. I have replaced the torque converter with a new one, no change. I replaced the valve body with a constant pressure body as well and still no change. Is there anything else that could keep the thing locked up? The smaller inside overdrive shaft looked good and slid in and out easily. Is there any kind of solenoid in the AOD that would cause this or if vacuum has any role in this problem...
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