Lexus SC430 :: 2003 - Temperature Gauge Continues To Go Above The Half Way Mark
Apr 11, 2014
The temperature gauge continues to go above the half way mark. Yesterday it was 88 here and I ran the a.c.. The gauge got a little over the second white mark from the top. I don't know if this is normal, I have taken it to a mechanic twice and he said I had nothing to worry about.
I am just used to the gauge staying right in the middle, and this one does not do that. The fan that cools the engine is almost always on as well. This is another thing that leads me to think there is a problem.
Would you mind telling me if your 430 gauge moves around like mine? I have to get something done before I hurt the engine?
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I have a 2003 Malibu with 29,000 miles on it. I notice my temperature gauge reads a bit over the half way mark when driving around town. I don't notice any type of coolant leak. The gauge almost always reads above the half point, but never gets to the point of overheating. Sometimes it comes close to it but never actually overheats.
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Over the past approx 3 weeks Ive noticed that my gas gauge stops at about the mark half way between 3/4s and full now. Previously when I would fill the tank it would go about 1 click beyond full. Today,with the needle damn near on empty I filled up and it only took 9.13 gallons. During this same time span I am only avg approx 17mpg where prior i was getting over 23/24 mpg.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with a 2.7 motor. I have cold heat but it will still defrost windows the temp gauge stays around the 1/2 way mark.
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I have an 02 SC430 and I recently noticed that my temperature gauge rose to 3/4 high after driving pretty hard on the interstate and then coming to a complete stop on side street traffic (mind you, it was like 95F outside) After traffic cleared and i started to move, the temp gauge went down to 1/2 and never rose again.
I tried to replicate the problem by having the car on idle and revving for a few minutes, but she stayed at half. I told my brother to watch the temp gauge if he drives it. He said the coolant was low and added coolant. Driving today, storming like hell, on the exit, i pull up to the red light and notice my temp gauge is to the cold position, but i have a check engine light on, VSC light on and VSC off light. I also noticed I'm smoking like hell, so i pull over to the nearest covering and pop the hood. My rad cap has popped off and coolant has spewed all over the engine. let it cool down and put the car on accessory.
At this point, my temp gauge is still at the cold position. started it up with no problems and the temp gauge shoots to the overheating position. I shut it down, let it cool. After a few minutes, i fire it up and drive it to the nearest gas station maybe 1000 ft away. Filled up almost 2 gallons of water and let it run with the rad cap off to get the air bubbles out. I notice a lot of air purging itself out of the coolant system. after running for 5 minutes with no variation in my temp gauge, i drive it for 5 minutes with no problems, no funny sounds, no funny misfire, no smoke (front or rear). The lights still have not come off... I can only attribute the overheating to air being in the cooling system.
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The other night I passed a car overheating (Subaru) and checked my temp gauge and saw my needle was gradually climbing towards the half mark. This is not normal for my 96 Honda Accord. No lights coming on, so I blasted the heater and needle immediately returned to it's normal position. Filled the coolant, it was low, but the problem remains if the heater isn't turned on to at least 3. This doesn't seem extreme enough to be the thermostat. Could my fan be out?
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After owning my Phaeton for over two years and never seeing the temperature gauge move past the 200 degree mark, I was surprised to see it start to fluctuate on my ride home from Michigan today.
It went up to around 240 then back to 220 and continued between those two for the duration of the 3 hour drive. I know those temperatures are within the safe range but was wondering if it would have continued to rise if I had been driving on a longer trip. Right now I have the hood opened and am waiting for the engine to cool down before checking the coolant level.
This car has operated flawlessly for me and I think a visit to the VW service department is in order prior to the warranty expiration just to have a good look at all the possible issues that might pop up! Even though I have a CPO for another 2 years, I'd prefer not to have to find out what isn't covered in a pinch.
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I have 2002 Camry 2.4L (2AZ-FE Engine) Japan built. Lately, I noted the temperature gauge stay at the 4th mark when engine fully warm up (first mark is at bottom and slightly longer than the next few marks), is this normal? Which mark it is at when fully warm up.
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I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
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New owner for a 2002 SC, Made mistake when lowering top to hit trunk button, top has stopped half open half closed Light on lose button is solid red and if pushed blinks red but nothing happens.
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Is it normal that the temperature gauge reach half the temp scale all the time ? Even though I live in a tropical island were outside temp is mostly above the 85 mark I find it a bit weird for the temp to reach that point.
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What is the location of the Coolant Temperature Sensor? I search but I couldn't find a picture or diagram for our car.
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I have a 92 2wd with a 5.7 and it keeps getting way to hot. I have changed the water pump, Thermostat (fail safe), and heater core and had the entire system flushed. and it is still getting really hot. If is is in park it does not get hot, but when i put it in gear it gets over the half way mark in just a couple minutes. I have noticed that it has an after market transmission cooler to me it looks to small for a my truck it is a 12in square and 3/4in thick. The radiator has the holes for the Transmission lines but they have been pluged off. Should I go back to a factory setup and flush the lines or upgrade the size of the cooler? and is there a way for me to flush the transmission lines myself?
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I have a 03 sc430 will a stuck climate control. I can change the temp on the passenger side, but the drivers side is stuck on 65! and its cold here!!!!
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I noticed on cold mornings (40-50s) the gauge does not go half way even driving 30 minutes, about a bit more than 1/3. In the afternoon or most of the time it points to about middle.
Is the gauge that sensitive or there is a problem with the thermostat? The thing is I don't feel the car is slow to warm up normally, I rarely heard of thermostat problems on a Toyota until a whole lot of miles. I wish I have one of those ODB2 logger now and maybe it reads the coolant temperature.
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When taking our 2007 RX out of say a 72 degree garage to say a 90 degree day, it takes at least 10 minutes for the outside temp gauge to finally creep up to the ambient temperature. The gauge feels very sluggish at all other times.
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So my truck felt gutless somtimes, wouldn't start Every couple days , and Fuel gauge stops at half tank won't show full, so I went n bought a new fuel pump..... Well shoot nothing changed . I guess my next move is pull the dash off n fix gauge? It used to be a reliable truck . Now Im not comfortable to let wife drive it . I also pulled the chip to see if that had to do with not starting, also theft light blinks normal. I'm going to get some connector grease n redo all of my wires to c if there's just connection issues.
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I have 03 F-250 with a 5.4 in it. Recently noticed the gas gauge is not moving much and seems like it will not go below half a tank. The gauge will go up however when i put gas in it. I just put techtron in it last night to see if this might work. Wasn't to sure if i did a battery reset on the truck if that may work as well.
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2003 Chevy Malibu 3.1 temperature gauge stopped working last night, this morning having trouble starting, no check engine light fans do turn on have heat, replaced the coolant temperature sensor but gauge still not working?
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My 2004 RX330 which has gone many years without a problem suddenly has instrument panel gremlins.
I started the car a couple of days ago (it had rained during the day), and the airbag light did not turn off. Then the TPMS warning light came on, the water temperature gauge dropped to zero. The AC controls stopped responding. Since I needed to get home, and the car seemed otherwise fine, I drove home, after a few minutes the transmission "D" drive light went blank and the instrument back-light went to full brightness.
A few minutes later, all the warning lights went off and the back-light went back to normal. The AC controls still seemed to be off. A few minutes later the airbag warning light came back on, followed by the TPMS light and the back-light went to full brightness again. This cycle kept happening all the way home.
The next morning, hoping the problem had been some errant water getting into something, I started the car, opened the driver's door to get something and got back into the car, closing the door. The light showing the door was open stayed on. I put the car into reverse, the doors did not automatically lock as they usually do. I turned off the engine and restarted it, most of the other lights were off, the doors would lock; airbag & TPMS light came back on.
It has stayed that way, except I also get the A/T temperature warning light coming on periodically, and after some cycle it goes off.
I borrowed a car code reader, it does not seem to show any error codes. In reading some other postings it has been suggested that the Brake light switch is the cause, but the brake lights come on/off without any problem.
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I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
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