I am in search of a SC430. I know that from 02-05 it has 5 speed trans. 06 and newer has 6 speed.
Is there a big different in the drive? I just want to justify the extra cost for the 06 and newer.
The SC I recently bought is quite quiet except for a helicopter noise at speed.
This noise becomes obvious at around 70 kph (40 mph) but can be noticed at lower speed (volume much lower). I don't think turning the wheels or braking makes a difference.
Since it's speed-sensitive and there's no noise when the car isn't moving, I guess it's related to the wheels. I've just replaced the rear tyres last weeks; nothing changed. I've checked the tyre pressure today; may have got a little improvement (not sure) but the noise is still there.
Is this the wheel bearing noise? Or is this tyre noise? Could the differential make this kind of noise (the only other thing I can think of that's speed-correlated)?
Also, as an aside I pulled the fuse on the te/ti steering the other day because I'm too lazy to use techstream. I swear there's a noticeable improvement in the steering accuracy and feel. Really don't know why.
When I am driving at a higher speed and I need to pass someone or accelerate, the engine bogs down. I push the peddle to the floor and nothing. This does not happen all the time but it happens. But when I accelerate from a light or lower speeds there does not seem to be an issue. I recently had the value gaskets replaced because of a small oil leak and it seems this problem began after then. I have taken it back to the shop but the problem does not duplicate itself when they test drive it.
View 14 RepliesIn my current speedometer the speed needle doesn't work i did everything and changed all sensors and checked all related issues and all is fine turned out the issue was with the speed gauge it self. So i bought my self a used speedometer.
Now my question is, how to dismantle the speedometer cause I want to take out the speed gauge from my old one a replace it with the new one i know its much easy to change the whole thing but I don't want to play with the mileage I have on my car.
Having a problem when going over speed bump or drain at the end of your driveway?My roof makes a popping noise?
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a CPO 2007 GX 470 with 110k miles. At no charge dealer made repairs re the Bulletin about clunk in rear when I slowly drive over speed bumps. Had all front and rear shocks raced with OEM shocks, and four new Michellin MS2 tires installed. Rear end still feels like is is bottoming out sometimes during regular local and freeway driving when going over different times of road bumps.
My 'i89 a Dodge Ramdharger ( only car I ever bought brand new off the lot ) with 174k miles and old shocks and original springs drives better over bumps and speed bumps than the GX. One Lexus dealer said the reason is because the rear air bags ( that are not leaking )do not fill up fast enough when going move bumps and that can cause the bottoming out feeling. My mechanic is going to check it over again. What could be causing the bottoming out feeling?
Currently My AC / Heat blower motor operates but, speed 1 and 2 are the same, 3 and 4 are fine. I replaced the blower rheostat that is located on the firewall, but still no difference in fan speed.. A few years ago the blower only operated on Hi and the rheostat was the problem then.
View 3 RepliesSince we purchased the car we've been having problems with the transmission or acceleration, when the car is shifting from park to drive engine speed RPM goes up and it is difficult to stop the car from driving. The dealer does not know what to do and the factory support is useless.
View 14 RepliesI would like to post this performance issue on my 2003 GX470_79Kmiles which happened on the freeway yesterday. The sequence:
1) During start and at idle/stationary, the rpm shoot to 1100rpm and stayed there for a while, i would think that it was normal since the engine was still cold.
2) Drove to the freeway, I noticed that speed is very slow to pick up. My normal driving experience was that at close/equal to 2000rpm, the speed usually at around 70-75mph. But there was a considerable reduction of speed at around 60mph at almost more than 2000rpm, plus a buzzing engine noise. I tried to really rev-up the engine but very sluggish to pick up the speed not even close to 70mph.
3) Drove the car to lexus shop this morning, top speed of 60 to 65mph and tried to rev it up to plus 2000rpm to pick up speed, but the engine noise is very abnormal.
When I come to traffic and slow down, I have this jerky feeling when I'm coming to a stop. It's not from my brake or transition from gear changing. It's repetition of jerky feeling, not like one jerk from second to first gear.
For example, I'm in my first gear and stopped on the road. If I release the brake pedal and do NOT press gas, my car slowly moves forward with this jerky pulsation. It also makes noise (well.. I can hear it through my exhaust) while it moves. It feels like car is about to move, then stops, then moves, then stops.... I don't really get this when I apply gas.
A few months ago my automatic 2000 hyundai accent GL was having problems reversing. Some times it would, sometimes it would move a few feet then fall out of gear and stop, sometimes it would not move at all.
The reversing problem fixed itself about a month ago.
Recently i started having problems accelerating, it was noticeably slower to get to speed and had problems upshifting.
Today, it started to make a buzzing when in Drive, while decelerating after getting to speed. This buzz is nonexistent in neutral, 2nd, or low gear.
Here is a video of the sound it is making, with captions to explain what i am doing... 2000 accent transmission problem - YouTube
I thought my top used to go down in drive when I was at 0mph, but recently it only goes down when the car is in park. Maybe my memory is just bad but does everyone's sc430 top go down in park only ? Or can you also drop the top when you are in drive at 0mph? Maybe it never could drop the top in drive at 0mph and my mind is playing tricks on me!
View 9 Repliesis locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 Camry SE I4. The problem is my car speed odometer is faster than my radar detector speed. I have 2 detectors and they are both not show the same speed compare to the speed odometer. For example, I am going 70mph, the detector reads like 67-68mph. So the speed odometer is off about 2-3mph. I have OEM size on my car. I know the GPS on my detector is more accurate. So my speed odometer has problem?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 Prius. In the last few months, the radio has started acting strangely.
Sometimes it will increase I speed when you speed up and slow down when you slow down. And play normally when at a stand still. Sometimes it locks up, you can not change the volume or station. Sometimes it does not work at all. Other times it works just fine.
When I called the dealership, they will only replace the radio and not investigate the issue. Replacement could cost 300-400.
I have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
View 9 RepliesI have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
My Honda Civic DX (1997) is over 200k. Over the past six months, it's been to the repair shop multiple times including each of the brake pads, shoes were replaced. Nowadays, it's making a squeaking and scraping noise as the vehicle is moving at any speed. The squeak comes and next the scraping. The sound is becoming more pronounced, it seems, daily. What the problem is coming from?
View 1 RepliesThis is probably always present but I hear it most at low speed if I am off the gas and brake. Slightly accelerating or lightly touching the brakes seems to reduce or stop the noise. It is a knocking noise coming from the right front and the rate is related to car speed. I am guessing CV joint. What is it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Econline E-250 that I have had since it rolled off the factory floor. It has about 225,000 miles on it. I don't use it much any more, but I want to keep it in good running condition - because I do use it occasionally. I had it checked out, nose to tail, and the only thing the mechanic found that needed to be fixed was that it need new ball joints and an ABS switch. I have had that work done.
My question is this: how often, how far, and at what speed should I plan to drive it to keep it in good running condition?
My 1993 Celica, 1.6, 5-speed manual left drive shaft failed and I am trying to replace it myself. I have the new part in hand, but for some reason, the inner splined shaft does not want to go all the way into the transaxle. I have tapped the rotor end of the shaft with a mallet and tried to force it in, but everything Ive tried wont work.
My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.