Ford - E250 :: 1995 - Has 225K Miles Drive At What Speed / How Far / How Often
Apr 22, 2012
I have a 1995 Ford Econline E-250 that I have had since it rolled off the factory floor. It has about 225,000 miles on it. I don't use it much any more, but I want to keep it in good running condition - because I do use it occasionally. I had it checked out, nose to tail, and the only thing the mechanic found that needed to be fixed was that it need new ball joints and an ABS switch. I have had that work done.
My question is this: how often, how far, and at what speed should I plan to drive it to keep it in good running condition?
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I accidentally drove my Toyota Matrix in third gear at highway speed for at least 50 miles. Did I do damage?
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I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking. This thing has 253k on it.....
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Yesterday I was driving around some back roads and I started to hear a ticking when I accelerated when I left my foot off the gas pedal it went away. But when i put my foot on the gas again it comes back. You really cant realize it when you have the radio on... Ive been experiencing rough idling when I come to fast stops and quickly speed up again.
The ticking seems to only happen after like 20 minutes of driving. Most of my trips are only 10 minutes, to either school or to work so it really doesn't happen very often... Although college will start in a few months (30 minute drive) so I wanna get this fixed before something major happen.
Also on a side note, when going up hills it feels like it has delayed shifting. I really don't want to put in anymore money into this truck...already put $ into it the first year of owning it. I guess the good thing is that I got it keeping my fingers crossed nothing is wrong with the transmission or motor, what is wrong?
*I have a 1995 v6 4.0 XLT ranger with 160,000 miles
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My rig is a 1995 F-250 Powerstroke 4x4 with 150k on the clock and an E4OD. It has been well maintained and no major work performed aside from glow plugs recently... That was fun! But that's another story...
The issue: Irregularly and randomly over the last year or so the truck has had a problem going into drive. I'll hop in, put it in Drive and nothing. It's like its in Neutral. It is also the same in 1 and 2. If I put it in Reverse, I can feel it engage and the starts to go in reverse. When it has this drive issue, the only thing that I can do to make it go is to give it some fuel and idle it up. Then it slowly engages and its fine.
Last night it did this... But this time when I could only get it to go by putting it in first and then giving it fuel... It slowly engaged.
Overall its done this maybe five or six times over the last year and doesn't seem to be getting worse. Sometimes it will go for a month with no issue.
This has happened when its warm or cold so I'm not sure heat is an issue. About 10,000 miles ago the transmission was flushed / full service. Oh, and the ATF level is exactly where it should be. My biggest fear is that the transmission needs a rebuild. One local shop quoted me $4200 to rebuild it. What I'm looking for is to know if there is a simpler and cheaper fix. I'm not really interested in a rebuild, unless that is the only option.
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I was driving back from college for Spring Break on the I-80 when all of a sudden, about 50 miles out, the car starts bucking and losing speed and within a minute stopped moving entirely. The dashboard showed no indicator lights, and oil and transmission fluid seemed fine and there were no leaks of any kind coming from under the car. A highway patrol office stopped and advised me to drive so he could see the problem first hand.
To my surprise, the car worked perfectly. At this point, I simply drove back to my college town to get the car fixed, as I didn't want to risk driving 300 miles with a problematic car. The mechanic said it was because my catalytic converter was old and clogged up and switched it out. Unfortunately, about 60 miles of driving, the exact same thing happened. This time I drove all the way home, simply letting the car rest for 30 minutes every time it didn't want to move anymore. So, what is wrong with the car?
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I am in search of a SC430. I know that from 02-05 it has 5 speed trans. 06 and newer has 6 speed.
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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I have a 1994 F-250 that we have changed the thermostat, radiator, water pump, cap, hoses, and installed a spring fan. New heads. Hot heat in the heater. It runs normal at highway speed for around 10 or 12 miles and gets hot. pull up and idle and the temp retracts. Even the block has been blown thru. What could possibly be the problem?
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I am driving a 95 ranger xlt extended cab with a 3.0 two wheel drive with an automatic transmission. the two piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing went bad at the bearing. i separate the u-joint just after the bearing and was going to remove the nut holding the bearing housing together but cannot get the nut off. now i'm also finding out that i need a bearing puller to remove the damaged bearing from the 1st drive shaft.
Its turning into something i may not be able to finish. i saw on line an idea where a guy replaced the 2 piece shaft with a one piece. he states that a 1 piece drive shaft, 1998 or newer would work and no need for this bearing. you have to remove the cross member. it sound easier than what i'm trying to do. i looked at some old posts and galleries but did not see an article. here is a link to his website: How-To: Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger
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"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
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I finally decided to replace a leaky manifold as the low compression and leaking oil has gotten to be too much. Not sure but it looks like I'll have to remove the intake manni to get to it. A fortunate side effect is that the oil leaking from the manni seems to have lubricated most of what would be rust-welded bolts. I'd driven it like this since I bought it 3 yrs ago.
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We own a 12 passenger Ford Econoline and would like to add head rests to the bench seats. We have 4 children; 3 in car seats and 1 in a high back booster, but she's quickly outgrowing it, and I don't want to take her out of it until there's something there to support her neck in an accident.
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My neighbor stopped me this morning saying her 2005 prius was acting up.
When we started off the MFD was showing all blue bars, ac lights radio all turned off.
Drove less than 3 blocks and it dropped to one purple bar and had hesitation on acceleration.
Went around the neighborhood about 3 miles and it was showing full charge green , parked and restarted, it dropped to all blue bars.
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I am not the original owner of this 1990 E250 cargo van with a 302 in it. I am trying to troubleshoot this shudder I am having. It only happens when I am just starting off from a stop. Every other place the tranny runs and shifts great. I trying to find a starting point and after reading a bunch in a bunch of different places, I am confused as to the tranny I have or even had.
It has in big bold letters METRIC on the bottom of the pan. It also has Automatic Overdrive and Ford on the bottom of the pan also. It is a 14 bolt pan with the two rear corners of the pan chamfered off. I see now it is DEFINITELY the AOD installed and NOT the AODE. The thing is my steering column is labeled 1 D and OD. That is a 3 spd overdrive to me. What the heck is going on? How can I tell what the tranny was that came out of the van?
When I look under the van at the shift linkage, you can definitely tell the linkage is colored red which to me looks like somebody has been down there playing around. Is it possible to put a AOD into this van with the steering column the way it is? Could this be a reason for my early shudder at starting off from a stop? Once I put my foot in it or get moving at a quicker pace, the shudder goes away. Something is not right with the way this tranny is set up. I am not even sure where to start.
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I have an '88 E-250 with no power to accessories. Was starting fine but now no power to anywhere but the ignition light that is below and to the left of the steering wheel. No headlights or radio. Checked my fusible links but just visual so gotta get the meter out there and start poking around. Only thing I did different before it started this was take loose the ground wire holding strap that holds the middle of the ground wire to the body but I didn't think this was an actual ground spot but I could be wrong.
Earlier I reinstalled that strap and took out the ignition switch. I noticed that the radio turned on when I turned the key to acc. but not when I turned it to run. Would the headlights run through this ignition switch on the column? I have power to the yellow wires coming into the switch and the ground is good. I checked the fusible links I could find out in the engine bay and all tested good but could've missed some. Fuses in the box looked good but don't know if there is a master fuse box for bigger fuses but I don't see one.
1988 E-250 5.8 auto.
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