Malibu - Chevrolet :: 2005 - Door Won't Close Unless Drive Few Miles?
Feb 20, 2013
I own a 2005 Chevrolet Malibu and am having issues with the driver's door not being able to close. I live in Michigan currently, and the weather here is very cold. When I first start my car in the morning, the door will not latch to the car. It just bounces back after you pull it closed. However, when I get to my destination, whether it is 15 min away or 45 min away, my car door will close. I've tried WD40 on the latch thingy to work with lubrication, but it is to no avail.
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I rebuilt my turbo 350 transmission. I drove it about two blocks and checked my fluids. Everything was fine. So I drove it down town....two or three miles and I lost all gears forward and reverse. I got a ride home and left the car for about three hours then I went back to get it. The transmission shifted fine as i drove it home. I have parked the car since i cant trust the trans not to break down. As I drove to town I noticed a slight vibration in the trans area.
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My Chevy Malibu is having a bit of trouble.
When I drive on inclines my reservoir leaks. It did it way more when I lived up a hill, but since I've moved to a more flat area, I barely see it.
A more serious issue I am having is with my ignition/gear shift. When I try to turn the car off it will not go to the OFF position. If I wiggle the handle, it will then go off.
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I have a 97 malibu w the 3.1, the back driver side door window wont go down unless i push it down, if I only use the switch i hear the motor working it appears it came out of the track that operates it. I would like to know how i can repair this myself.
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My car is idling hard in reverse, and the mechanic said, in fact, a problem with the transmission (a turbine?) Well, a new transmission costs much - so, not much savings there. I was told to try some simple fuel injector cleaner first. Chevy Malibu Classic, 2005....
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2005 Malibu 2.2L 4 cyl.109,000 miles
If I hit a bump too hard the Check Engine light comes on because the gas cap pops out. Dealer told me this is a common problem with many of the Chevy models earlier than 2007. GM doesn't have a solution, either.
Since none of these cars have a locking mechanism I decided to get a locking cap at NAPA because the locking mechanism would hold the cap in place. Nope! The locking cap is even worse.
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When I brake I get a rhythmic noise that starts like a quiet chirp and by the time I have completely put the brake pedal down it sounds like a loud grinding noise. It is a rhythmic pulsing noise, not continuous. I recently got new rear drum brakes, and 2 garages said my front brakes were fine. One guy said it could be the wheel bearing but I looked online and it says that happens when you accelerate, not when you brake. It only happens when I brake at relatively low speeds. In other words if I'm on the hiway and brake to slow down from 70 to 60 or 40 to 30, it won't happen. I also feel vibration in the brake pedal, but only when I have almost completely stopped.
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I have a 2005 Malibu. After two alignments, a front wheel alignment by an independent shop and a "four wheel" alignment by the dealer, my car still pulls to the left at highway speeds. What else could be the cause of this? Bought the car with 22,000 miles and now have 80,000 plus. No accidents; don't understand what is wrong.
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2005 Malibu Maxx, automatic transmission, well maintained mechanically. About a year ago, while driving up a small hill, my display panel starting dinging and all of the lights came on and my steering felt like it was losing power. After I got to the top of the hill, all the displays went off and bells stopped dinging. I've had the codes checked at the local dealership and the only thing found was that one of the battery cells was low. We replaced the battery about 3 months ago and that hasn't stopped the battery light and bell from coming on when driving up any incline. It still feels like I'm losing steering in these instances. I also tend to accelerate when going up a hill, so I don't know why that would be a problem. A recall has been issued for my car, but I'm not sure if it has any bearing on this problem.
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2005 Chevy Malibu
When the driver side door is opened there is a clunk sound about half way through the swing. When the door is closed there is a couple clunks then a thud. The sound is coming from the front of the door.
What is causing this and does it mean big trouble soon?
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Why does my car front end shake when I go pass 65mph steering vibrates & everything inside does to then you can feel that right or left tire shaking not to sure....
2005 chevy malibu classic....
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I have 2005 Chevy Malibu that has been making slightly metallic thud noises while turning. The car does not need to be in motion, but will make the noise in both forward or reverse in both directions. The noise is gradually increasing in loudness. I have inspected the CV boots and verified that this car has electric power steering assist. The dealer would not look at it, stating that the "Malibu's do this". Additionally the service rep stated that "if he had it checked out they would not find anything anyway." This noise does not sound like anything that should be ignored and sounds like major failure / safety issue pending. I can find no consensus on what might be wrong?
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The passenger-side automatic door on my 2005 odyssey will not close 75% of the time. It doesn't matter if I use the button on the dash, the door handle, or the button on the fob. The door will start to close until it has about 6 inches left to go, and then the door will make a loud clunking sound and beep as it opens up again. I've tried turning the automatic switch off on the dashboard and shutting it manually, and it won't close that way either. I can't budge it. The only way I've been able to get it to close when it's like this is by turning the car back on, putting it into drive, and then closing using the button on the dashboard. It will still start to open up, but I can get it to close by pushing the button again, although it jerks and closes very reluctantly.
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Tried all the steps as out-line on 100's of threads. When I open and close the door I do not hear the chime or buzz to tell me that that step is done and of course no chime at the 7-second mark nor at the 15 second mark.
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My mechanic tells me that the hold up or carrier bearings on the drive shaft of my 2005 Equinox need to be replaced. He says that about half the time this cannot be accomplished and that I might have to replace the entire drive shaft. From the research I have done, it seems that a press (?) and blow torches are needed to replace the bearings. I can't afford the new drive shaft, but I could afford to replace the bearings if I could find someone who was sure they could accomplish this.
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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I have an '02 malibu that got hot and now won't start I have pulled the plugs and there isn't any water in the cyliders. And none in the oil, what to check next?
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When I take my car in to have an oil change/checkup the garage tells me my wheels need to be balanced. However I do not have any indication that I need wheel balancing. The tires do not show unusual wear, there is no shaking while driving in the city, nor when on an expressway driving from 40 to 70 MPH. Is it possible I really need to balance the wheels?
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I have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu LS.
The bulb for the parking light on the right headlight doesn't come on, it only comes on when the turning signal is activated. I'm not sure if it's the bulb or the fuse? If it's the fuse, do I need to buy electrical gloves and disconnect the battery before I "operate".
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I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu (187K mi). Last year I was driving to work (24 mi one way) and noticed when I came to a stoplight the car seemed to be really hard to stop. When the light turned green and I let off the brake, it jumped forward pretty hard then continued on the way. Once I got to the parking lot and put it in to park, the RPM's went WAY up to around 3K the second I put it in park. It did this on and off for a week or so, one time getting so high in park I was scared to drive it. It was really sporadic. It quit for a day or two, then started again. I finally took it to a transmission shop...a national chain that is supposed to be good.
After 2 weeks they still didn't know what was wrong, charged me $500 for looking at it...didn't fix ANYTHING and it's been fine for almost a year. The only thing they charged me for was hooking it up to their computer and doing diagnostics. They said they were going to have someone test each wire one by one because it was showing a computer malfunction. However they did not actually do any work on the car. Just tests. I got it back and it worked fine for some reason. Now it's started to do it again. Rev'd really high, up to 2K when I put it in park last night..but today it's been fine. What could this be, and who do I trust?
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2011 chevy malibu. 3 days ago on my way to work my car would hit about 2500 rpms and drop then go back 2500 and drop continously. I stopped turned it off and it ran fine. now I've noticed when taking off from a stop it's a jerking/quick (only once not multiple times) kind of go. It used to be very smooth. occasionally the rpm problem will return but less severe.
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