I have a slight squeal from the left rear brake when in reverse. Doesn't do it all time and never when roads are wet. I disassembled the caliper and all looks good. I replaced the pads about a year ago and the noise just recently started, so its hard to blame that. I did not use the brake anti-noise lube......but I never have.
View 2 RepliesSo, I have Stoptech rotors and brakes, and it squeals when (a) it's warm after a few minutes of driving and (2) only when I initiate braking softly to slow down, but disappears after braking firmly to stop. Brake pads have about 80% left on them.
View 4 RepliesJust fired up my 2002 SC430 (115k miles) for the first time this year, so it's stood for over six months. Connected fresh battery, checked all fluid levels etc. Runs fine and purrs like a kitty BUT I'm getting a loud intermittent squeal (like you might get with a sticky pump or a slipping belt). Almost like a loud "meow" in duration & tone. So loud it can be heard from 20' away. Sometimes once per minute or two, sometime several times in a row then silence for a few minutes.
This is from the area where the Brake Fluid Reservoir is (on Right Hand Drive SC430 this is right by the Windscreen on the left hand side of the engine bay as you look at it from the front of the car (may be reversed on Left Hand drive models). Directly in front of the Steering Wheel.
(ABS) check light is on. Also "VSC" & "VSC off" check lights on (probably related to ABS being in check and VSC button does nothing to clear those lights). Also getting the buzzer alarm from the dash. Pumping the brake pedal and driving the car forward/back 10' several times on the driveway doesn't clear this.
Now, this may be that the Brake Pads have bound to the Discs (Rotors to you left-pondians). I may need to pop the wheels off and free up the Pads in that case.
I replaced my brake pads and rotors and now the driver's side brake has a loud pitched squeal. It doesn't squeal all the time and if I let up on the brakes and apply them it goes away.
I think maybe one piston is hung up.
How do you free up a stuck piston in the caliper piston?
Or could there be another reason for the squeal.
I installed Callahan slotted rotors and ceramic pads on all 4-wheels.
First of all, except for my current problem, I love the combination of Brembo disks and PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads on the front and rear of my 1998 Passat 1.8t Sedan for daily driving. The feel is great, less dust than OEM or others, consistent performance in wet driving (much much better than Mintex Redbox pads). Initially had a bit of squeal on the pads after about 300 miles, but then after some heartbreaking that went away and I have had over 3000 miles of squeal-free and consistent braking..... at least until more recently.
In January (~1000 miles ago), I switched from my summer wheels to my winter wheels. Ever since then, I have had an almost consistent squeal from my left rear brake setup. It occurs at the latter half of pressuring when the car has slowed. I've tried really hard freeway braking which works (for a few more breaking events). I've tried resetting the bolts on that wheel (I always use a torque wrench). That only solves it for a couple of braking events.
I have even removed the wheel, rotated the rotor on the hub and reset the wheel. Still no luck. The brake and rotor surface look in great condition, and there is definitely no play in the hub nor is their any warping evident - no pulsation at all. Everything is torqued properly. I have been able to get rid of the squeal for about 10 breaking events by riding the parking brake while at higher speeds for more than 5 secs. Sometimes with really hard braking it goes away for a short while. Then, in either case, it comes back.
I replaced my front pads/rotors after the dealership suggested same. I went with NAPA Ultra Premium rotors and Hawk LTS pads. I applied the high temp brake grease to the pad ends and shims, but forgot to install the two "V" spring clamps on the left front pads. The sliding caliper bolts seemed free, but I didn't clean them (I should have and will do so if I tear the brakes back down). I bedded the pads by doing 30mph to almost stops 3 or 4 times then 45mph to almost stops 1 or 2 times...not sure if that was enough based on reading other posts on how to bed.
I now have a slight squeal and not sure if it's due to a lack of those V clamps or if I didn't bed the pads correctly or other. Thoughts? Can the pads be "re-bed" if I boofed it up the first time? I'm about to do the rear rotors/pads and want to do it right.
The X stops OK, but I thought it would be more aggressive than it is with the pad/rotor combo I installed. I tow a ~8,000# TT and want good stopping power.
I am wanting to change my rear brake pads and . Looking for step by step instructions or photos.
View 1 RepliesMy front right brake seems to work better then my left.. What it could be? my car pulls to the right when I press brake.. I am going to be replacing my brakes this summer but before I do that I wana know whats causing this so my new brakes don't get ruined..
View 4 RepliesMy rear brakes started to squeal at 15k miles, only in reverse. Needless to say, the squealing got worse and now it sounds like metal on metal. It's at 21k now. I was suprised that the brakes would go out that soon, especially the rears first! I called the dealer and they said, "wow, I'm surprised they lasted that long, they usually only last about 15k". What about the rears going out first, "oh, VW's are designed that way, the rears go first, the pad material is really soft".
View 13 RepliesMy left side mirror, motor will move left and right but it will not move up and down. Is there a DIY way to fix this? Is it a motor problem? Can I buy the part and fix it?
View 7 RepliesI get a small "squeal" from the engine usually only when it's cold out, and have narrowed it down to the water pump pulley (2nd pulley down from the top). I put a drop or two of WD-40 on the "rod" that runs through the pulley and it stops. I know not to put anything on the belt to avoid contamination but it seems to me that it's the metal bolt that keeps the pulley in place. I stopped by an O'Reilly and had the tech have a look because I was going to try a more viscous grease. He thinks that it's either the pump is starting to fail or that the pulley could have moved out of place. He said I should remove the belt and tug on the pulley.
If it moves then it's loose and needs to be lubed and tightened. If it doesn't then it's a water pump replacement. What do you all think? I don't want to drop a ton of money as it truly only squeals when it's cold, and unfortunately I'm thinking Chicago's gonna have a cold one this year even though after the engine heats up it's goes away. If you have a guess to the problem, what do you think replacement will run me. I'm only at 30,000 miles, and has been garaged until recently so I don't think it's a belt change or pump failure yet.
Slight squeal while steering the vehicle to the limit of it's turning radius? I've just begun to notice this recently on my 07 GX... mainly when I'm pulling into a parking spot at slow speeds. Is this normal or should I have it checked out at Lexus dealer?
View 3 RepliesNoticed a slight vibration from my engine at idle. Nothing too overbearing but just had a concern. How much should I expect if the engine mounts need replacement? Parts? Labor?
View 11 RepliesI have a 02, sc430. Modded with blitz supercharged and straight exhaust all the way..( accept the 2 catalytic converter before the o2 sensor.) But I have slight delay or lag during the first gear. From (rpm) 1k to 4k its delay or lag.(not revving smooth). But when its reach 4k and above, the power just kicks in suddenly.
View 6 RepliesThe scene: 22k miles on a 2010 Prius II. Loud rear brake squeal, worse when backing, but still present going forward at low speeds. Does not seem to go away even when warmed up. I put it off having it checked at first because a little rust on the pads is very common in my climate.
At the dealer, the tech tells me I've worn completely through the pads and scored the rotor! At 22k! On a Prius, for crying out loud! It's not my driving, either, because that's the first I've ever had anything done to rear brakes on any car before 75k. The front brakes needed no attention at all. I challenged the service tech with these points; he even took me back into the shop to show me. The caliper pistons were moving freely, for what it's worth. Ultimately he just shrugged me off.
I have the exact same problem as described in the below video.
I have worked on brake pads once. I just haven't had the guts to try it on my Hybrid yet.
Here's the deal:
1. My 2002 SC430 with 23,000 miles on it is making a low rubbing noise when slowing down, with a slight vibration, not severe enough, but it is annoying and frankly surprising on this car. The dealer tells me it's because the brakes have "glaze" on them, and short of a new brake job, you can jam on the brakes to clear or loosen some of this and reduce the noise. ( I live in the desert so I'm sure I could find a deserted stretch or road for this craziness...) The dealer reports the brakes have 70 - 80 percent life on them and I don't need a brake job.
2. Power steering. I thought this particular car was just hard to steer, but even the tech at the dealer commented it's like I have no power steering. I test drove two other cars, and the steering is markedly lighter on the other two SC430's I drove. (2002 and 2005) Dealer can't seem to find an explanation, but I have to drive this car with two hands around town... I know this is not the way this car was intended to feel.
I don't believe the car changed that much from the 2002 model so as to affect the steering. BTW, I'm using stock tires, not run flat, 4 months old. And the steering is stiff at idle anyway, regardless of tires. The first SC I drove, which sealed the decision to buy one, was so quiet I didn't know the engine was running, easy to steer, and smooth.
When I put the car in reverse the doors lock. When I put the car in park the doors don't unlock, but I've never noticed because when I grab my door handle it also unlocks my door...however when my +1 grabs her handle it doesn't unlock her door. Is that normal?
I'm assuming I can change the setting when the car is put in park to automatically unlock the doors.
I just purchased a LS 460 2007, 64k miles. The brake when apply squeal, but not all the time when the break is applied. 5 times out of 10 times when you apply the break when driving the car for more than 20 minutes it start to squeal. It does not squeal when you first drive in the morning, but after driving more than 20 minutes, when you apply the brake - it will squeal on and off during various application of the break. Does the LS460 have brake indicator that would squeal all the time when you need new break? I am not sure what the sign that LS460 would need new break and rotor.....
View 4 RepliesSo I was driving today with the fuel light on, drove for 5 miles and the car started dying. I was under the impression there would be atleast 2 gallons left. How many miles we have left when the light turns on?
View 14 RepliesSo I purchased my 2015 Lexus IS 350 AWD F-Sport back in October and experienced the following issues:
1. Brake squeal
- seems to occur when reversing out of a parking spot for example, so annoying and extremely loud, makes it sound like my brakes need changing
2. Bluetooth Radio
- there are times where my phone connects to the radio, plays music off my iPhone but then it sounds like the singer is slowly dying i.e.: the type of sound you used to hear when a walkman's batteries would be dying and needed changing. Happens sporadically
3. Gas tank lid on side of car won't close fully
- this happened just this week. I couldn't close my gas lid, no matter what I did. I managed to get it closed today after starting my car, wonder if its related at all to power/engine being on etc?
4. Buzzing in gas pedal resonates through foot
- this one is still driving me insane. Drive my car for 10-15 minutes on the highway and your foot feels like pins/needles from the buzzing sensation from the gas pedal.