Lumina :: 1992 3.1 Car Started Dying Going Up Hills Then Stalled Out On Level Road
Feb 8, 2014
Trying to figure out if she jumped timing or maybe PCM went out. Car started dying going up hills then stalled out on level road. Found coil pack for #3 and #6 bad and replaced it. Other's arced ok so I left them alone. Didn't work for starting it so I checked the fuel pressure and got 37psi with key on and engine off.What would cause it not to even try to hit? Considering maybe it's jumped timing or the PCM is going out.
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I know brake squealing indicates worn brakes and time to check/replace. But I notice on my 2009 Hyundai Accent, the squeal only happens going downhill (maybe uphill too, but one usually doesn't brake much there), and on non-level surfaces at times. But for most day to day driving it's level enough to not hear any squeals.
My question is what might this indicate with regards to the brakes or other components? Is it a special type of wear or uneven wear of the brakes? Since even wear would have the brakes squealing all the time I'd assume.
I'm going to have it inspected, but wanted to get some thoughts here beforehand.
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Three weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
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I have a '99 Lumina and a few weeks ago lost all sound from the stock radio. It powers up and everything else appears to be working normally, but I get no sound at any volume level. All the fuses seem fine, as does the antenna connection. I also tried grounding the radio to the chassis, but with no luck. This weekend I went to the local scrap yard and pulled three stock radios from three similar Luminas ('96, '98 and '99) with no real success. One radio produced sound, but constantly went from low to ear-blastingly loud; the one from the '99 behaved just like my current radio; the final one played normally for about one second and then faded to an almost imperceptible level. I checked online and all three cars show the same radio wiring harness, though I can't rule out the possibility GM changed the wiring just enough between each model year to cause those issues. I don't mind putting in a new radio if it fixes the problem, but don't want to spend the money if my trouble is actually in the car itself.
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I have a 97 s10 2.2 and when it gets warm it will dye going down the road. I checked when it dyed to see if the fuel pump was priming and it wasn't so I kept messing with it and it seemed as when the truck cooled down a bit it would prime then crank but you wouldn't get far down the road and it would dye again so I don't know where to start...
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I have a '92 Dodge B250 Van named Lucy. she has less than 90,000 miles on her. I don't drive much.), but I'm starting to lose hope of fixing her problem. The problem is that the engine keeps dying, and nobody seems to be able to figure out what's causing it. It almost always happens when I'm sitting at, speeding up from or slowing down to a red light, curve, intersection or stop sign. Sometimes she'll die when I first crank her and am sitting in park, and sometimes she'll die when I'm sitting on the brake in line at a restaraunt. Sometimes she'll start immediately back up, and sometimes she takes a few minutes to turn back over. Sometimes she'll die once or twice a week, sometimes she'll go a couple of weeks between episodes.
Nobody can zero in on the problem because she NEVER does it when at the shop. She once died as I was pulling into the garage bay, but not while they were looking at her. So far I have had a new fuel pump and distributor put in, with each doing nothing more than costing me lots of money and getting my hopes up when it takes a few days after leaving the garage for her to die.
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My 1992 one ton Toyota pickup with the V6 died on my several times Thursday morning driving to work. The first time it restarted but made a bad noise on the highway. I pulled over the next time and it took a while to restart and had some white smelly exhaust smoke. It died a couple more times before I got to work. My mechanic told me there are some bad noises coming from the timing belt area and the harmonic balancer is bad but those shouldn't cause the dying. It has 278k miles on it and I'd love to hit 300k.
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Recently my '92 Chevy Lumina (115,600 miles) has taken to not "firing" after I turn it on. It has a brand-new battery and altenator so there's plenty of current. I usually try to get it running 3 or 4 times and if it won't go, I leave it so as to not wear down the battery. It's as if it's not getting any fuel and yes, I do have gas in the tank. I've had the pressure in the fuel pump checked and it was within normal range although on the low end. I can wait 30 seconds or 6 hours and eventually it will "fire" and run.
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My main top water hose burst. I replaced it. Car ran hot. Replaced the thermostat, coolant sensor, and 12 volt relay fuses for primary and secondary fans. Still ran hot. Fans not coming on. I tested fans in service mode by paper clip to F and G in the diagnostic scan box. Fans came on, so no blowed motors. Got desperate, so ran a toggle switch to primary fan, so fan would run while I drive. Still, when the car gets hot, after about 5 miles of regular driving, the car huckabucks, and cuts off at slow downs and stops. Really bad in the middle of light intersections.
1992 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1 6 cyl ....
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I purchased a 92 Lumina Euro with a 3.1 and 101,400 miles on it a little over two weeks ago. It has been having problems since I got it.
It stalls intermittently, typically after I drive to work, shut it off for two hours, and then start it to go to my next client(home health aid) sometimes it stalls right after starting it then, and/or sometimes when put in reverse and/or drive and occasionally at stops signs after the aforementioned problems occur. It has also stalled out twice after highway driving after the car is shut off and started shortly afterwards, for instance, when I ran into a tobacco store for some cigs.. After the problem occurs it usually drives ok if I continue to drive it awhile even if I shut it off for a short time and restart.. I added some fuel injector cleaner when I filled the tank but it didn't work.
After about a week of the stalling issues the car refused to start after dying and didn't start for two or three days. As I was unable to get an answer from the dealer my step-father, who went with me when I bought the car, called him and he said if I could get the car there he would fix it. So I borrowed a bundle to have it towed the 25 miles or so to the small town car lot.
His mechanic supposedly fixed it by replacing the TPS and the dealer informed me that they had cleaned the throttle body before I bought it and apparently the TPS needed replaced to. However the issues again started after one day of it running fine. I tired to get a hold of this guy again and again I get the voice mail and no return call so as soon as I got off work I drove it over there and again he said he would fix it. He had it for three days and I again tried to get a hold of him without success and he again answered the phone for my step-dad and told him they had ordered some kind of module that would be in Monday. So Wednesday he calls me and tells me that they didn't replace this module because when they took it out it tested good five times but they noticed some gunk build up at the contacts of the wires that hook to the module and now the car was fixed. Why did they order the part before testing??? This doesn't make sense so it throws doubt on what the man said. I went to get the car and when I got back to my town and went to get those cigs it died twice after restart and put into reverse. That was two days ago and it has been dying once or twice each day since then although it is somewhat better than before as it isn't taking as long for the idle to even out at sufficient rpms after I throttle it at idle or drive awhile. BUT now it seems to be sucking the gas hard and I am wondering if this guy just did some jerry-rigging because he sure isn't fixing it.
A few more details. The rpms drop rapidly when this occurs, it has a couple of times had a rough idle at the same time but more often the rpms drop and it dies.Sometimes if I use the throttle and keep it up around 1000 rpms for a short time it won't die. I have smelt a burnt smell a couple times when I shut the car off, like electric burnt, not oil burnt or stinky exhaust. Lets see, I felt a very brief loss of power feeling when driving on the highway on two different occasions, so brief that it was barely discernable. It runs over the halfway point on the temp gauge after driving awhile in town, seems a little hot to me but I read these cars don't kick on the fan till 220. Sometimes the rpm bobs a little up and down at idle and slow speeds and once the battery power dropped and popped right back up when it was idling funny and when it had that no start an acquaintance tested it by putting a screwdriver in a plug wire and pointing it towards the engine as I cranked it and he said it had no spark and it did crank every time I tried to start it during the no-start condition. It has also done a bit of surging from time to time when the prob happens. The car is recovering from the stall condition quicker than it did before since this last "fix" but still stalling.
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95 corolla 277k miles. 4 hours into a long trip went over a huge bump and the shocks seemed to "bottom out". Like they compressed as much as they could. Pulled over half hour later for a break.
After that drove rest of way home. Car started shuddering and slowing down going up a hill. Had to floor it just to get it to be 60 mph. Hill wasn't that steep. Seemed to do ok on flat parts.
Was a little low on gas so pulled over to fill up. Noticed car idled very roughly felt like it was going to stall while pulling into gas station.
Gas cap was a little loose. Didn't hear the whoosh of the vacuum you usually hear when undoing the gas cap either.
After that it seemed to be a little better going up hills. I drove it home, and a day later drove it and it seemed to go up hills ok.
It still idles very weirdly, roughly and like it's about to stall. While driving it sounds ok.
I was thinking fuel pump but now i'm not sure. It might be related to the gas cap, maybe the bump loosened it.
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Yesterday, for the first time ever, car had to be towed to the dealership for some major problem. My dad was driving to work with his car , a 2003 GLS V6, and suddenly it stalled in the middle of the road. Turns out it was the fuel pump that caused it. Never mind the expenses which is ridiculously high and can't do anything about it (yes, i'm loyal to my dealer). His car had 129399kms on it plus a km to the dealer and mine had 70136km for a 2002 GLS V6.
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Is there a way to override the air-suspension lowering in Off-road level when going at speeds over 43 mph?
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I ran over a 18 wheeler tire , it knocked my exhaust a loose & a few days later my transmission started shifting into overdrive at 30 mph.
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I have a 2012 V8TDI and when trying to reach the highest "special off-road" level after turning the knob to its rightmost position nothing happens. The last level indicator keeps flashing on the onboard computer screen and the car doesn't rise any further. It stays to the "normal off-road level". What am I doing wrong?
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On Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
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This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
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Finally got my title, plates, and inspection for my 92. Started driving it to work Monday, and things were going smoothly until this morning. I noticed this van had as much road noise from the back as my 95 did, I assumed it was the junkyard fresh Prime well tires. Well, the noise seemed especially loud today, and then it went quiet. I knew this wasn't a good thing! I turned onto the exit ramp, and instant smokescreen! I was planning on replacing the rear axle seals this weekend, but that apparently wasn't soon enough.
Let it cool for a bit, then limped over to the Lowe's parking lot. Conveniently, there's an Auto Zone there too! My wife picked me up, and I loaded the car with jack, stands, and tools, plus a quart of gear oil left over from when I changed a seat on the 95. Long story short, pulled the driver side axle, and the wheel bearing was completely disintegrated! Luckily, I was able to get my paycheck a day early, so I can pick up the new bearing in the morning, as well as 'rent' the bearing puller.
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My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
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This system has a feature that is supposed to adjust the sound level to compensate for road noise etc. I had a Ford with this feature and you could adjust the sensitivity. It worked great; adjust the volume sitting still and the volume went up and down as you traveled.
In the 2010 Prius, I have enable the feature but I cannot figure out if the sensitivity can be adjusted and I do not hear that it is working. I set the volume and start driving and as the road noise increases the sound just gets drowned out. If you turn it up, when you slow or stop it just blasts loudly; no adjustments at all.
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Ok, my 2003 Ex Limited with 109,000 started doing the same thing today that it has done many times before. It started shuttering and then stalled. It comes out of nowhere and then the overdrive light flashes at the same time. I have had the coil packs replaced in the past, but not all of them at once. I also had the torque converter replaced last year as well. I am pretty sure that it's more coil packs that need to be replaced again. I'm sick and tired of replacing coil packs on this truck, it seems like they go bad very quickly. It's so bad I'm thinking about getting rid of this truck and getting something different.
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