Toyota :: 1992 V6 Starting Dying While Driving
Feb 23, 2014
My 1992 one ton Toyota pickup with the V6 died on my several times Thursday morning driving to work. The first time it restarted but made a bad noise on the highway. I pulled over the next time and it took a while to restart and had some white smelly exhaust smoke. It died a couple more times before I got to work. My mechanic told me there are some bad noises coming from the timing belt area and the harmonic balancer is bad but those shouldn't cause the dying. It has 278k miles on it and I'd love to hit 300k.
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I have a 1992 Toyota MR2 and the other day I was driving home on the freeway. I started to hear this slight ticking noise from the engine compartment. I let off the gas and the noise stopped. I decided to pull over at the next exit but when I steeped on the gas again the engine died. No idiot lights on or gauges going wild that I remember seeing.
Now it won't even attempt to start. When I tried to roll start it, (it's a manual transmission) the wheels were locked up and actually tried rolling backward. When the car died on the freeway it just rolled to a stop so I know the tires worked fine when it died. What this might be? By the way, it's a non-turbo, 2.2 liter.
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5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
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I have a '92 Dodge B250 Van named Lucy. she has less than 90,000 miles on her. I don't drive much.), but I'm starting to lose hope of fixing her problem. The problem is that the engine keeps dying, and nobody seems to be able to figure out what's causing it. It almost always happens when I'm sitting at, speeding up from or slowing down to a red light, curve, intersection or stop sign. Sometimes she'll die when I first crank her and am sitting in park, and sometimes she'll die when I'm sitting on the brake in line at a restaraunt. Sometimes she'll start immediately back up, and sometimes she takes a few minutes to turn back over. Sometimes she'll die once or twice a week, sometimes she'll go a couple of weeks between episodes.
Nobody can zero in on the problem because she NEVER does it when at the shop. She once died as I was pulling into the garage bay, but not while they were looking at her. So far I have had a new fuel pump and distributor put in, with each doing nothing more than costing me lots of money and getting my hopes up when it takes a few days after leaving the garage for her to die.
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Trying to figure out if she jumped timing or maybe PCM went out. Car started dying going up hills then stalled out on level road. Found coil pack for #3 and #6 bad and replaced it. Other's arced ok so I left them alone. Didn't work for starting it so I checked the fuel pressure and got 37psi with key on and engine off.What would cause it not to even try to hit? Considering maybe it's jumped timing or the PCM is going out.
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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My 2009 awd SF is less than 4 years old and has about 81500 km on. In the past few days, I start to feel a little hesitation while starting the car. I have an incident today in which the car barely turn over - behaved exactly as if the battery is dying. Took it to the dealer and spent 55$ for a diagnosis => alternator is OK (what a relief) but the battery is weak. I do not think battery would die (stop holding charge) this soon. I expect at least 5-6 years of service from a battery.
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I'm having a rough go with my little 1990 Ranger Custom. Let me get into the signs and symptoms I'm finding, The Truck is having starting and dying issues. It has plenty of Gas. It is completely erratic when it dies. I'll be driving along and suddenly, as if turning the key off, it dies. No sputtering of the motor, no clicking or clacking or growling anywhere. Just a clean sounding turn off. The odd thing is, I'll leave it for a few hours, and the problem disappears. I can drive it for one to 30 minutes and then it can die again.
Now it's sitting in my driveway I am rough on the truck, because its a work truck that I use to drive down to my job site. So, farm pasture, fields, woodland paths and tractor access roads. I checked to see if the pump plug was unplugged. But it's very plugged in. The entire fuel system is just less than a year old, and I am very good friends with the old owner and he can't figure it out either. Could I be having ignition problems? There is a ticking in the engine compartment that isn't very noticeable, only noticeable when the hood is up and motor running, but that has always been there since I've had it. I heard that sometimes the safety switch on the firewall turns off the fuel system in case of accident.
Could that have gotten agitated? I've been having this issue for a little while, after I drove it in the rain for an hour and half. It was pouring rain. I ran out of gas the day after (because my fuel gauge doesn't work) and I used a Jerry can filled with gas to get it to the gas station. I didn't sift the gas, but I don't see it having debris either. Could I have water in the system? I put injector cleaner in my tank and more gas to try and dilute the system but, that doesn't seem to have worked...
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My girlfriend has a 1993 corolla, with a little over 200,000 miles on it, manual transmission. It has been running great until a couple days ago. Driving back from Seattle, we noticed the car hesitating while driving. With the gas applied, it seemed as if the car was hesitating forward and backward, it seemed as if the engine wasn't getting enough gas. This happens in all gears, but less so in 5th I think. The next morning, while stopped with the clutch in, the car seemed to be always on the verge of dying out, with the RPMs dropping, and then revving back up constantly, right before it seemed the engine would die. The engine hasn't actually cut out yet, but it seemed very close. We shifted into neutral and the same problem was happening, so I don't think it's a clutch problem.
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I drive a 1995 Toyta Corolla. Two things that I should mention that may or may not be relevant. I have a history of electrical issues (I've replaced my alternator 3 times) primarily when it has been wet outside. I have also noticed smoke under my hood. I was initially scared this was an engine issue, but my brother assures this is due to a power steering leak
The issue at hand:
For the last couple days I've noticed a few things worth mentioning. First my brake light has come on a handful of times, however oddly never when actually braking. Secondly, my enigine will sometimes but not always stop running when I brake. At this point all my electrical systems still work (lights etc.) and all the lights on my panel come on (which I understand is normal if a car is on but engine not running). Lastly, my car has never not stopped, but it has been for the lack of a better term "mushy" for a couple weeks.
When I go to start the car again after this engine stop, sometimes it will immediately start, sometimes it will struggle (rewr rewr rewr) but then start, sometimes it will struggle and go to battery noise ""click click click"", and if we start getting the battery clicks it stays there until jumped.
My brother today went and checked my battery with an multimeter, and he states that my battery is both maintaining a charge and charging (He told me to tell you he got Cold not started 12.3 volts, car running 14.48).
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I have a 1985 Toyota Tercel that I just got, the thing has been sitting for 2 years and it started before it was left to sit. Now I have done all the usual maintenance on it, replaced the sparks, oil, oil filter, air filter, distributor cap, fuel pump and fuel filter, gave it some gas treatment and filled the tank and some carb cleaner to clean out the gunked up carb. My problem is that it starts but dies right after when it tries to idle. it can shift in to gear and such but it will still die out right after about 10 seconds unless I keep tapping the gas. The more times I start it the longer it stays idle but I wonder what the problem is...
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I have a 93 Corolla LE and in October I was driving in heavy rain and the car died. Since then I have replaced the spark plug wires, plug seals, distributor cap, battery, and rotor. The car would get me from A to B, but I would always have to put it in neutral at a stop to keep it from dying. This past week we've had a lot of rain and it's been really cold so my car has been dying when I slow down or stop. I gave it plently of time to heat up thinking it would work, but it died three times on the way to work.
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I have a high-mileage 1984 Toyota Landcruiser that has the 2F engine, 6-cylinder, carburated. It's also got a manual 4-speed transmission in it.
Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.
Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.
I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!
I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.
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My 01 Dodge Intrepid has a year old rebuilt engine and a yr. old master computer. Past two months, just dies while driving. Try to start and just turns over and over and over. Once it sits for two days, it will start right up first try. Twice it has died at the same spot on the highway entrance ramp! Seems like a clogged fuel filter but shop says there is plenty of fuel and good pressure. They think it is the computer and needs to be "flashed" at a dealer. I smell oil burning on the engine and the oil light keeps coming on but the oil was just changed and is still full and clean? (The first time it went in for this problem the guy just replaced a relay--doesn't show any codes).
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So, for the last week or so my cars has started dieing while driving. First time it died randomly when approaching stop signs a couple years ago. Now it seems to have progressed and dies while on the highway and now has become more frequent to date. I checked for vacuum leak and spraying all visible lines that I could see from engine bay. Engine codes...the array of engine codes. P0420 catalyst system efficiency, P0706 trans solenoid 'C' clutch, and P0430 another catalyst system inefficiency to join it's brother P0420. The car starts up fine in the morning. Car does not ride rough.
Today I changed the spark plugs and noticed oil in all 4 wells and a lot of oil in the 3rd one. I changed the spark plugs because they were 20k miles and figured I might as well replace them while I'm diagnosing the car. So turned back on the car after doing the job and got a puff of smoke...go to o'reillys and new codes. P108(MAP Pressure Circuit High Input), P110(Something about coolant being high input) and still the P0420. (Shop I took it to must have removed old codes. Not sure why).
So there shouldn't be oil in the wells because my shop did head gasket job 2 years ago. I'm pretty confident in their work, so I'm thinking it must be blowby and because the amount of oil in all 4 wells. (But then again this is the cars second head gasket job, so who knows) If it is indeed the rings causing blow by, is it safe to drive around with oil in the wells? If I drain it regularly can I continue to drive it safely? Is there a test to determine if it's blowby?
I ran car for oil cap off looking for smoke, nothing. I did feel a steady stream of air though, not sure what's normal and abnormal on that front.
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Issues with my '86 Toyota MR2... So, I just recently bought this car earlier this year and it's always seemed to be giving me problems. One of the major ones is that the engine is always dying. When it first did this a couple times after I bought it, my dad and I assumed it was the alternator(we figured it couldn't be the battery because the battery that was in it was relatively new, but we took it to Auto Zone to check the volts on it anyways, and it was all good; we did get the alternator checked also and the guy said it was the alternator), so, we bought a new alternator and my dad and I replaced it. About a week or two later, it started back up with the issue. Whether I was stopped at a red light, slowing down, or making a turn, the engine would die. So, whenever I'm at a red light, I'll put the E-brakes on or put the car in neutral and just get the RPMs up, but shortly after I rev it up, it'll stall. And I try pushing the clutch in all the way, majority of the time, it doesn't make a difference and dies anyway.
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My Toyota Corolla, 2006 keeps dying after long periods of sitting. Coincidentally (?) the issue has only occurred on weekends, after my 8-hour afternoon work shift. The first 2 occasions it made a quick clicking sound when I tried to start it (6 and 5 weeks ago, respectively). I replaced the battery; it was old. Then, the same issue happened two weeks ago. I had the battery checked at the site of purchase, where they also checked the alternator. Both reps advised me the parts showed up good on their meters. It died again the next day. So, I had a mechanic check every fuse and relay in the car to look for a draw on the battery using an amp meter. Readings indicated no significant drop in current draining from the battery while any were unplugged. . . I don't use a remote control unlock button (one professional seemed to think this might be relevant), and I have checked to make sure no lights were left on, even in the trunk. (Also note - I have seen no drop in performance when driving vehicle, nor any change in air conditioning or light brightness). I'm lost where to take it from here.
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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I have a 1992 Celica 2.2. I've been having trouble with it starting after it has warmed up. I will go to start it and it will only crank but I can let it cool down normally like an hour and it will start up fine. I have replaced the ignition coil, fuel filter, spark plugs. And have checked the fuses and the distributor and they are fine. I wonder if its the actual fuel pump but I am no sure.
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My father in law gave us a car to use so my husband can get back n forth to work. Recently it started dying on him while he was on the highway and we don't know whats wrong with it. His father told us its a brand new batter that was put in it before he gave it to us. The car is a 1990 Honda Accord. The radio already doesn't work so its always off. The car dies no matter if heat/air is on or off. I don't think it could be a battery problem. There's 2 lights that come on when it dies: battery and oil. We put oil in it. The weird thing is that after it dies, we put it in park and turn key in ignition to off position and then restart it and it starts right back up with no problem. We really don't know whats wrong with it but cant afford to take it to mechanics to tell us 100 other things wrong with it..
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My 2002 Toyota Prius keeps dying (triangle of death and OBD Code 3191) after running smoothly for a few seconds each time I start the engine. Clearing the DTC code allows restart. But the check engine light and triangle of death keep returning after a few seconds.
It has been doing all this since I recharged the 12V battery (which had been drained completely by a dome light left on for 3 days). Initial attempts to recharge the 12V battery were causing current spikes at charger, and (relay?) clicking sound under the hood. So I disconnected positive battery cable and charged the battery in isolation, then reconnected it to the vehicle after charging was complete.
When I reconnected the recharged 12V battery the vehicle (honking horn) alarm went off. But that stopped when I unlocked door with key. It may not be related, but I'm also hearing a fan-like sound (under driver seat) when ignition key is in run position. I don't recall hearing that sound in the past.
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