Dodge :: 1992 B250 Engine Keeps Dying
Apr 7, 2013
I have a '92 Dodge B250 Van named Lucy. she has less than 90,000 miles on her. I don't drive much.), but I'm starting to lose hope of fixing her problem. The problem is that the engine keeps dying, and nobody seems to be able to figure out what's causing it. It almost always happens when I'm sitting at, speeding up from or slowing down to a red light, curve, intersection or stop sign. Sometimes she'll die when I first crank her and am sitting in park, and sometimes she'll die when I'm sitting on the brake in line at a restaraunt. Sometimes she'll start immediately back up, and sometimes she takes a few minutes to turn back over. Sometimes she'll die once or twice a week, sometimes she'll go a couple of weeks between episodes.
Nobody can zero in on the problem because she NEVER does it when at the shop. She once died as I was pulling into the garage bay, but not while they were looking at her. So far I have had a new fuel pump and distributor put in, with each doing nothing more than costing me lots of money and getting my hopes up when it takes a few days after leaving the garage for her to die.
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This being the second of no doubt numerous questions re the 1989 Dodge B250 camper I just bought for a summer roadtrip. Engine is the 318 V8 with 120k miles. Tranny was rebuilt in '99 at about 60k.
Problem: beginning about 40 mph, and growing increasingly severe with speed, is a low-frequency rumble/vibration, probably in the 20 Hertz range. Significant enough that I didn't want to drive home faster than 50-55 mph. Could feel the whole vehicle vibrating, through the drivers seat, NOT through the steering wheel or pedals. Definitely not the engine, because as soon as I let off on the gas, the rumble/ vibe disappears. Get back on the gas and it returns full force. Definitely a drivetrain problem, only under load, that disappears when load it removed. My best guess is it felt something like I've heard described as a bad U-joint, something I've never experienced in person. The tranny shifts fine and doesn't feel like it's the problem, unless maybe it's something to do with the torque converter at highway speeds?
I'm taking it into the shop next week for diagnosis and repair, but I'd be interested to know in advance what the range of possible causes might be. Will report back after diagnosis with bonus points for correct guesses!
PS, correct me if I'm wrong, but when I pulledoff the highway to check underneath, it looked like this van has 2 U-joints. Is that correct? The van has a rear body addition for the camper bathroom.
Also, the van has been sitting almost unused for almost 2 years, except for an occasional run around the block to keep thr blood flowing. Would that lack of use perhaps. contribute to a U-joint seizing up?
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1974 74 Dodge V8 360 ... So it's a carburetor. Starts up cold first thing in the morning no problem whatsoever. Choke plate nice and closed, idle screw on the highest step on the ladder, good vacuum, and all of that.
Once the engine warms up, and the choke plate slowly opens up to let more air in, idle and vacuum decrease, and when I hit the gas and idle screw drops down off to the lowest step, the engine dies.
Where should I start?
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'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
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My 1992 one ton Toyota pickup with the V6 died on my several times Thursday morning driving to work. The first time it restarted but made a bad noise on the highway. I pulled over the next time and it took a while to restart and had some white smelly exhaust smoke. It died a couple more times before I got to work. My mechanic told me there are some bad noises coming from the timing belt area and the harmonic balancer is bad but those shouldn't cause the dying. It has 278k miles on it and I'd love to hit 300k.
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Trying to figure out if she jumped timing or maybe PCM went out. Car started dying going up hills then stalled out on level road. Found coil pack for #3 and #6 bad and replaced it. Other's arced ok so I left them alone. Didn't work for starting it so I checked the fuel pressure and got 37psi with key on and engine off.What would cause it not to even try to hit? Considering maybe it's jumped timing or the PCM is going out.
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My 01 Dodge Intrepid has a year old rebuilt engine and a yr. old master computer. Past two months, just dies while driving. Try to start and just turns over and over and over. Once it sits for two days, it will start right up first try. Twice it has died at the same spot on the highway entrance ramp! Seems like a clogged fuel filter but shop says there is plenty of fuel and good pressure. They think it is the computer and needs to be "flashed" at a dealer. I smell oil burning on the engine and the oil light keeps coming on but the oil was just changed and is still full and clean? (The first time it went in for this problem the guy just replaced a relay--doesn't show any codes).
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So, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
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Purchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
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My 1992 Dodge W150 truck skips when I am accelerating slowly from a stopped position. It is an automatic and seems to change gears properly. It skips between every gear change until you reach cruising speed. The skip does not occur or I do not notice it, if I accelerate rapidly. After I bought it, a mechanic installed new plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, dist cap, fuel filter and speed sensor. Truck has over 90,000 miles.
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This has happened to me three times now. The first time was at a stop sign, the second going 70mph on the highway, and the third time at a stop sign. I will be driving and then all of a sudden the engine loses power. The more I push on the gas, the more the engine wants to die. If the engine stays running after I pull over, it idles very rough, and still if I press the gas, it wants to die. This seems to only happen after driving long distances for maybe an hour or so.
When this happens, if I let the car sit for about an hour, it will start up just fine, idle smooth, and drive normally. This is a 1992 Dodge Dynasty with the 3.3L V6, Fuel Injected engine. The car only has 78,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition. It's such a nice car that I would like to figure out what's going on with the engine because I would like to drive it for a lot longer. So far I have replaced the ignition coil pack, the oxygen sensor, map sensor, fuel filter, and spark plugs an wires.
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Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
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I know that this issue is occurring, hence the recall, and it is actually happening to me. I have gone off the road three times now due to my engine simply dying while the car is in motion. I drive a 2013 Sonata with 32k miles on it that I bought months ago, and the car has been to the dealer 4 times for the same issue, yet they are telling me NOTHING is wrong with the car. The service manager and general manager of the dealership no longer want to deal with me,they said if the computer doesn't show the problem, then there is no problem. The car's radio won't turn on, the bluetooth feature doesn't work, it has to be jump started 4-5 times a week and half the time it dies while idling after being started. The tire pressure sensor light just came on even though that was tested, and when the engine dies, no check engine light or ECM lights come on. BUT, NOTHING is wrong with the car!!
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I drive a 1995 Toyta Corolla. Two things that I should mention that may or may not be relevant. I have a history of electrical issues (I've replaced my alternator 3 times) primarily when it has been wet outside. I have also noticed smoke under my hood. I was initially scared this was an engine issue, but my brother assures this is due to a power steering leak
The issue at hand:
For the last couple days I've noticed a few things worth mentioning. First my brake light has come on a handful of times, however oddly never when actually braking. Secondly, my enigine will sometimes but not always stop running when I brake. At this point all my electrical systems still work (lights etc.) and all the lights on my panel come on (which I understand is normal if a car is on but engine not running). Lastly, my car has never not stopped, but it has been for the lack of a better term "mushy" for a couple weeks.
When I go to start the car again after this engine stop, sometimes it will immediately start, sometimes it will struggle (rewr rewr rewr) but then start, sometimes it will struggle and go to battery noise ""click click click"", and if we start getting the battery clicks it stays there until jumped.
My brother today went and checked my battery with an multimeter, and he states that my battery is both maintaining a charge and charging (He told me to tell you he got Cold not started 12.3 volts, car running 14.48).
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I'm having some serious trouble with a 2000 4Runner with the 5FVZFE V-6 with 165,000mi. The engine is bogging down/ sputtering and dying on startup, won't drive over apx. 20-30mph, doesn't seem to want to shift up or down, and won't rev past 3000rpms, stopped or driving. I've been a mechanic for awhile and never seen this issue before. But here's the kicker... I'm in bfe Afghanistan, have almost no access to parts (if I do it takes quite awhile to get them and even the easy stuff is hard to find), no diagnostic comp, and only the tools in my toolbox, air compressor, and solvent tank.
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I have a high-mileage 1984 Toyota Landcruiser that has the 2F engine, 6-cylinder, carburated. It's also got a manual 4-speed transmission in it.
Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.
Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.
I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!
I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.
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I brought this 2005 Camry last March of 2013. It has an faulty engine computer rendering vehicle inoperable and useless. It died in the middle of traffic not too long ago, and I almost was t-boned. Then it died in the middle of the turn lane and I had to restart it three times to get it to a repair shop where they reflashed the engine computer. Now today, May 25th, it did it again! Right after I pulled out of my driveway it died on the road. I was not on Highway 94 otherwise I would have been rear-ended.
I believe there is a TSB on a faulty engine computer for the 2005 to 2006 Toyota Camry and it should be covered under emissions warranty and this is a serious safety issue, I almost had my car smashed up the first time! Until this problem is fixed, I wouldn't feel comfortable taking it out on a roadtrip. Right now I have a 9 grand paperweight in my driveway, and in fact my 1996 F-150 has been much more reliable than this Camry. I don't want this to drag on for a week, if its not covered under emissons warranty/by Toyota, I will just order a used engine computer and install it.
I am going to order a engine computer and see if the problem goes away. When it died the second time, I had to restart three or four times to get back to my driveway where I left car.
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So this morning when i started up my car the cel came on. The car seems to be running fine so i decided id try to go to work and hope for the best. Well nothing happened and i made it to work fine, but i noticed i was always regenerating power. My drive is 45 miles all freeway and little traffic most the drive.. ive never had this happen on my drive to work and ive had the car for a year now. Could the hybrid battery be dying? i have a cheap scan tool but that doesnt mean i will get the correct reading...
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Bought a 2001 from a used car dealership about 2 months ago. A week later it started acting funny. It would often race the rpm's about 2000 when at at stop light and then others times would act like I was out of gas when I would take off. Sputtered and then finally run normally. Then other times it wouldn't start and just crank over and over. After 10-15 times it would fire up and then act like nothing was wrong. It was a total crap shoot whether it would start or not each time.
Took it back to dealership and supposedly their mechanic installed a new fuel pump. Ran like a champ for about another two weeks and then exact same symptoms started showing up.
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Issues with my '86 Toyota MR2... So, I just recently bought this car earlier this year and it's always seemed to be giving me problems. One of the major ones is that the engine is always dying. When it first did this a couple times after I bought it, my dad and I assumed it was the alternator(we figured it couldn't be the battery because the battery that was in it was relatively new, but we took it to Auto Zone to check the volts on it anyways, and it was all good; we did get the alternator checked also and the guy said it was the alternator), so, we bought a new alternator and my dad and I replaced it. About a week or two later, it started back up with the issue. Whether I was stopped at a red light, slowing down, or making a turn, the engine would die. So, whenever I'm at a red light, I'll put the E-brakes on or put the car in neutral and just get the RPMs up, but shortly after I rev it up, it'll stall. And I try pushing the clutch in all the way, majority of the time, it doesn't make a difference and dies anyway.
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I have 104k miles on car, had tune up back in 09, new die hard battery from sears spring '10, just today my car started to shake when in idling, check engine light flashing. It seems to shake itself even while driving, when in idle it will then kill or die. Had radiator flushed January 2nd, 2011 due to heat not pumping through, still doesn't work (I know heater core) like it should. Finally the other problem is when I start & turn the car on it won't turn over-it wants to but takes a few tries like turning key each click like as if it were alternator, does sound like it would if it did turnover but like I said it takes a while & maybe will fire/catch. What the heck is going on? 2001 flex fuel as well but I only once put it in.
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