1974 74 Dodge V8 360 ... So it's a carburetor. Starts up cold first thing in the morning no problem whatsoever. Choke plate nice and closed, idle screw on the highest step on the ladder, good vacuum, and all of that.
Once the engine warms up, and the choke plate slowly opens up to let more air in, idle and vacuum decrease, and when I hit the gas and idle screw drops down off to the lowest step, the engine dies.
Where should I start?
I have a '92 Dodge B250 Van named Lucy. she has less than 90,000 miles on her. I don't drive much.), but I'm starting to lose hope of fixing her problem. The problem is that the engine keeps dying, and nobody seems to be able to figure out what's causing it. It almost always happens when I'm sitting at, speeding up from or slowing down to a red light, curve, intersection or stop sign. Sometimes she'll die when I first crank her and am sitting in park, and sometimes she'll die when I'm sitting on the brake in line at a restaraunt. Sometimes she'll start immediately back up, and sometimes she takes a few minutes to turn back over. Sometimes she'll die once or twice a week, sometimes she'll go a couple of weeks between episodes.
Nobody can zero in on the problem because she NEVER does it when at the shop. She once died as I was pulling into the garage bay, but not while they were looking at her. So far I have had a new fuel pump and distributor put in, with each doing nothing more than costing me lots of money and getting my hopes up when it takes a few days after leaving the garage for her to die.
Bought a 2001 from a used car dealership about 2 months ago. A week later it started acting funny. It would often race the rpm's about 2000 when at at stop light and then others times would act like I was out of gas when I would take off. Sputtered and then finally run normally. Then other times it wouldn't start and just crank over and over. After 10-15 times it would fire up and then act like nothing was wrong. It was a total crap shoot whether it would start or not each time.
Took it back to dealership and supposedly their mechanic installed a new fuel pump. Ran like a champ for about another two weeks and then exact same symptoms started showing up.
My 01 Dodge Intrepid has a year old rebuilt engine and a yr. old master computer. Past two months, just dies while driving. Try to start and just turns over and over and over. Once it sits for two days, it will start right up first try. Twice it has died at the same spot on the highway entrance ramp! Seems like a clogged fuel filter but shop says there is plenty of fuel and good pressure. They think it is the computer and needs to be "flashed" at a dealer. I smell oil burning on the engine and the oil light keeps coming on but the oil was just changed and is still full and clean? (The first time it went in for this problem the guy just replaced a relay--doesn't show any codes).
View 5 RepliesSo, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
View 1 RepliesI have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
I have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
B5 passat. Recently she took her car to the shop bc her cel was on. turned out her turbo was blown so she got it replaced with a brand new one along with the oil pump. about 3 days later the check engine light comes back on..idle is very rough and it feels like its misfiring.
First thing i did was check the coilpacks bc it was why my audi would always misfire but it didn't work. So she took it back to the shop and they said that her ecm is dying. Ive never heard of that happening.
The codes that came up from the CEL the second time were p0171, p0172, p0173, p0303
Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1985 Toyota Tercel that I just got, the thing has been sitting for 2 years and it started before it was left to sit. Now I have done all the usual maintenance on it, replaced the sparks, oil, oil filter, air filter, distributor cap, fuel pump and fuel filter, gave it some gas treatment and filled the tank and some carb cleaner to clean out the gunked up carb. My problem is that it starts but dies right after when it tries to idle. it can shift in to gear and such but it will still die out right after about 10 seconds unless I keep tapping the gas. The more times I start it the longer it stays idle but I wonder what the problem is...
View 4 RepliesI just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
View 10 RepliesMy 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
My sons 05 F150 is randomly dying during low idle. We removed and cleaned the TB and cleaned the MF sensor. For example, if he is coming up to a stop or slowing down, the truck will die, but starts right back up. So far no CEL and truck seems to idle and run fine, just ever so often will die.
Anything to check on the 5.4s
I've got a 99 Ranger. A month or so ago, it started to be a little hard to start. It would turn over, but not fully start unless I gave it a little gas. This did not happen all the time, primarily it happened after it had sat all day when I left work. Not long after that started, my check engine light came on. The codes were for a lean mix as reported from the 02 sensors. Before I could dig any further, it just wouldn't start at all one evening. This was after I had driven it for 30min and then parked it for an hour or less. But this time it was different in that the solenoid would just click, but that was it, like it didn't have enough power to turn over. I took the battery to have it tested and it had been severely discharged.
I got a new battery as that one had reached it's limits. Put it in and the truck started right up no problem. A few days later it started acting up again like it had originally, I had to give it some gas to get started. I had the alternator/starter checked, both were fine. A day later, it got so bad that I had to shift to N and keep giving it fuel anytime I stopped the truck. I had to do this all the way to and from work. Now this morning I go out and it starts right up, no issues, no dying at idle and didn't have bit of problem coming in. Initially we thought it must be a fuel pump, but then I can't explain why it worked fine this morning. I changed the fuel filter less than 2 years ago, so I wouldn't think it would require changing already. Wondering if there's a sensor issue, one that calls for appropriate amount of fuel?
My Echo died on me this morning and would not restart. I was at a light at the time. I pushed it aside, waited a bit and it restarted. I made it to work and it died again after several hiccups along the way. It then died in my parking spot but would restart. It has 192k miles on it.
It was acting weird earlier this week in that it would lose power (not electricity) while moving and then continue on. It seemed to work if I gave it more throttle. I feel like its fuel related but I don't have a lot of spare money to guess at the problem unsuccessfully.
For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
View 8 Replies2004 f150 fx4 w/ 5.4 .I have a code that read " system adaptive fuel to lean bank 1 " and the same for bank two. So, I got on here and did some research. Cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, air filter, looked for vacuum leaks, changed the fuel filter and it still is running very poor at idle and it seems to be getting progressively worse...
View 2 RepliesIt appears when i put the truck in 4 wheel drive it does not actually go into 4 wheel. It has lock outs and have made sure I put them in 4x4... why would it not go into 4 wheel, as there are no vacuum lines or solenoids (electric).
View 6 RepliesHaving some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
View 14 RepliesI own a 1974 Mercury Capri and I am having trouble finding a master cylinder. Where I can locate one?
View 8 Replies