Mazda :: 2005 - Blinker Working Intermittently
Feb 2, 2014
So my 05 Mazda 6 was in a small fender bender several months back. One of the items that had to be replaced was the right headlight assembly. Once we got it back from the shop we noticed almost immediately that the right turn signal was working intermittently. We took it back to the shop and they said the assembly was defective so they replaced it and it worked fine for a few days. But then the intermittent problem started again. I didn't have an opportunity to take it back to the shop so we just deal with it. My state inspection is coming up soon and it won't pass if the light doesn't work. I kinda think the headlight assbly is the wrong model. It has a small led looking light in it that is on when the marker lights are on that the other original doesn't have.
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This past weekend, however, I took it out on the highway and found it has a pretty bad vibration. The vibration is coming from the body, not the steering wheel, so i initially suspected the real wheel balance. Next I varied my speed betwn 50-75 mph expecting to feel the vibration intensity vary, but it did not. While doing that however I realized that when I let off the throttle, the vibration stops. Given it some gas and it comes right back.
I got off the highway and pulled in to a parking lot. Driving at parking lot speeds, accelerating or not, there is no vibration. Come to a stop either in gear or neutral, and the engine is rock solid steady. Then got back on the local streets and the vibration returned but only while accelerating, even gently.
At this point I should mention that we replace a bad motor mount a yr and a half ago when we bought the car, the upper passenger side. The mount damage was easily so it was an easy diagnose. Replacing it eliminated the vibration the car had at the time. We had also planned to replace the lower rear mount at the same time but the one we bought was defective, and the one we removed from the car looked fine, so we put it back in.
So now I am wondering if the rear mount has failed, but it is not possible to see the rubber unless you removed it. Could it be an issue with the engine itself, or do all these symptoms point to the mount?
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The cruise control on my '05 Avalon Limited was working intermittently for a while. I'd hit the button to turn it on and nothing. Then a few miles down the road, I'd hit it again and it would work just fine. Today I tried to turn it on and nothing. Three different trips today and no luck.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 65k miles. After having the "routine" 60k tune up, my heat stopped working. Not great timing as it is winter. Searching this board and several others, I narrowed it down to a thermostat or a clogged heater core. I have replaced the thermostat, and flushed the heater core. Now, the heater works occasionally. This is way better than it not working but how to make it work all the time. I flushed the core for about 5 minutes. I have heard that you should flush it for longer, but everything was coming out clear and easy after 5 minutes so I assumed it had done the trick.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan that has some intermittent starting issues.
Symptoms: put key in, dash lights up. turn key, 1 "click", and then nothing, won't start, no extended clicking or anything. Sometimes it will start after a few tries, sometimes come back later and it works. Battery also seems to drain relatively quickly sitting, and so sometimes needs to be jumped if sitting for a few days.
Also, had a really strange experience where after it had to be jumped while driving, the dash and blinker totally went out, but car kept running. This happened a couple of times. I suspected something with the battery, so I had it tested and it checked out OK. Also, cleaned the terminals/battery cables w/ cleaner, wire brush, steel wool and sprayed some corrosion prevention stuff on there. It did need to be cleaned, but, alas, the problem continues.
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My AC stops working intermittently - I got a whole new compressor about 2 years ago, then it stopped working altogether about a month ago, they said they couldn't find any leak but filled it up w/ added dye. Now it blows cold for awhile on the highway, but will randomly blow warm air, and also blow warm air when I'm stopped at a light (Which is no good in Phoenix, AZ) I took it back in and they said they couldn't find a leak or anything wrong with it, that some hose was probably just freezing and then I would have to wait for it to thaw... but that doesn't explain why it never happened before... and it's not normal (clearly)... I just want a car that I don't have to roast in this summer!
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I also have a problem with my left blinker and my break lights. My right blinker works just fine, but my left blinker and break lights will not come on unless I pull the blinker switch forward a bit- as if I'm going to turn my brights on.
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I have 2000 golf with a gli front end. Recently just did the swap and now I'm having issues with one blinker and one high beam not working. The running lights work on both sides. The headlights work on both sides. I checked the bulbs and they were good. I check for power it was all good. I checked the fuses and they were fine.
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I recently had a dash light pop on indicating that I had a light out. After searching all over the car I realized that the blinker in the passenger side mirror housing is not working.
From what I've been able to gather by looking at my driver's side mirror there are 3 small LEDs (two facing the side and one facing forward). On the passenger mirror all three of the LEDs are not working.
I find it very hard to believe that all three LEDs have burned out, since they rarely burn out at all. Why the lighting on that mirror isn't working? I haven't noticed anything else that isn't functioning at all or properly so I'm stumped.
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My wifes car has an issue of the blinker relay energizing after the blinkers are turned off. The relay is a hazard/blinker in the same relay. Once the blinker is off the relay clicks but the blinker nor hazards blink.
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I just installed a replacement Hazard Switch because the directional "blinker" light stopped working (after only working sporadically for a while). This particular switch is probably made in China. Hazards now working normally (with a blink rate of a little better than 1 Hz .. just like it used to work). Directional "blinker" lights - however - are also working, but at a very fast rate: probably 3+Hz. Why this might be? I'm pretty sure the directionals and the Hazards blinked at the same rate with the original switch. Maybe a side-effect of a cheap Chinese switch? I did check both tail lights and they're working for both Directionals and Hazards, but can't get over the difference in flash rate between the two. Doesn't give me a good feeling that this switch will last.
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2012 Avalon Limited. Is it possible to somehow adjust the sound volume of the turn signals? I can't hear the blinker at all, and can't see arrow at a glance due to where I have to set seat. I find myself being one of those idiots driving down the street with blinker going.
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I have an '05 Chevy Colorado and the front turn signals don't work and no flashers. I've tried replacing bulbs and checked the fuses. Looking for info what would work.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. The blinkers have stopped working...sometimes. Sometimes I put the right blinker on and the left starts blinking, sometimes both left and right work normally, but most of the time neither work. The hazards work all of the time. What I should do, or where to begin.
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I just recently replaced my front driver blinker and the replacement worked for about 5 days then it stopped working and the turn arrow started blinking fast again like when it was broken. I had to replace it cause a rock broke it before now I don't know whats wrong.
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I have a 2000 Mazda 626, V6, 5-speed with 157,000 miles. The car cuts out (as if it's loosing fuel) and stalls intermittently. This has been happening for 3-4 weeks and neither my regular mechanic nor the Mazda dealer can figure out what's wrong. Here's what they've tried: new fuel pump (replaced 3 times to make sure parts not faulty), new wires and plugs, new alternator belt, replaced fuel pressure regulator, replaced mass air sensor, cleaned/checked fuel & air filters, replaced coil/distributor (2 times to make sure part not faulty), checked for vacuum leaks, checked ignition/sensors (CAM and others).
It has been stalling intermittently for 3-4 weeks, though for a while would not do it when with the mechanic. Also, the check engine light would never come on, so there were no codes to check into. Sometimes after it would stall, it would not start up again until the engine was cold. Recently, it stalled when the mechanic was test driving it. He pulled off the mass air sensor and it started right up. He replaced that part and the car was driving OK for several days. I even took it on a couple 2.5 hour round trips. Today, however, I could not get it started. It would turn over, but not fire and it seems to me that it wasn't getting enough fuel.
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I realized my horn is not working. I also realized that the left side turn indicator (blinker) light is not working and when I popped it out I saw the wires were chewed up, I am not sure what happened. Do you think I need to remove the wheel well liner to try to access that area? What to do?
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My engine light started going on intermittently, and shortly thereafter it began to be difficult to change gears. I brought the car to a garage, and was told I need a new clutch (I have 50K miles on the car). However, the engine light says that there is a problem with the "clutch pedal position indicator."
The mechanic says that the position indicator is a separate problem, and I still need a new clutch. I don't know much about cars, but it seems to me that if the clutch doesn't know I've pushed the clutch pedal, that would explain why I have trouble changing gears.
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My 1999 Mazda Protegé has the hiccups ...every now and then it loses power for a fraction of a second. It lasts just long enough to feel it clearly, but it's gone before I can think about it. Very distinct sensation, but it certainly doesn't push me against the seat belt. It's been doing this for over a year (about 5-7,000 miles). No Check Engine Light has appeared at any time. The timing belt was replaced a few thousand miles back.
Yes, I've had it to a mechanic, a trusted local one. I even left it with him for several days. The car won't hiccup for him. I sometimes notice it around town, but I notice it more when driving on the highway (which has probably been over half my mileage in the past year), but I'm still disappointed that it won't do it for him. He suspects a spark plug wire -- he says it's probably only one cylinder based on my description -- but doesn't want to start replacing the wires if he can't diagnose it.
Recommendations? Should I just replace the wires and figure if that doesn't do it, it's part of the cost of diagnosis? (This much I should be able to do myself.) Should I try something else? Actually, as I think about it, he could have been encouraging me to replace the wires myself.
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My 2009 Mazda Cx-9 stalls intermittently after stopping, usually at red lights. It will start back up, and no problem. The steering wheel will lock when this happens. Also on the highway, it will buck/lurch but keeps going. The engine light never comes on so the repair shop cannot seem tell me the cause of the problem. It doesn't happen everyday, and has been happening since I bought the car 18 months ago. However, in the last two days, it has stalled six times. The repair shop today says that they need to do a throttle (?) clean and that "should" clean it up. But I don't know... what do you think?There isn't a noise I can tape, because alas, there is no noise !
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My left side rear blinker/ brake light is not working. The running/taillight side/filment of the bulb works, but the brake/blinker side/filament does nothing ! Just bought the truck used and it's my only issue, waiting on a owners manual, but I think each bulb is fused separate, and since half the bulb works, can I rule out the fuse and start chasing wires ??
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