So here is my delima. i currently own a prius and looking to replace my wife's vehicle. I thought maybe a EV would be great for a commuter. Problem is i have a long commute
45 miles to work.
i could probably charge at work all day(8am-5:30pm)
then leave from there to school and then home. which is 69-71 miles. <-- yikes.
My 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid has had this recurring problem since I purchased it used and I learned the original owner had the same recurring issue and other owners on the internet also. Typically when I go to start my car in the morning, after my car has sat in the garage over night, I depress the brake and the ignition button and **ALL** the warning lights come on including the EV mode ready and Service Engine light but the car has no power steering and the gas engine won't start at all. The car is drivable for about 30 seconds in EV mode then dies. When the car is at the dealer the car starts fine and they can't replicate the issue but find the following DTC's: UOO73, UO100 ECM 211, UO100 ECM 530, UO123, UO124, U0126, U0129 BRAKE 220, UO293,UO131 EPS 433, UO121 EPS 434, U1020, U1022. Nissan replaced the hybrid battery, the hybrid harness and the main car harness and now they say there is nothing more they can do to fix the problem. The problem remains. Have you had the same or a similar issue?
View 8 RepliesMy wife's Pathfinder (a 2002) has developed a problem with slow starting. The car cranks well (even at -20F, so it's not a weak battery) but takes a long time to start. It might crank for 5 seconds before sputtering to life. After being driven and shut off, most of the time, it will start up instantly again, just like it used to before the problem started. The problem is intermittent in that it sometimes starts pretty quickly in the morning, although it's not the instant start that it used to be, it might only crank for 1 second or less. I know that sounds like a normal time for a car to crank before starting, but the Pathfinder used to start, almost literally, instantly after the key was turned. So, even 1 second is an uncharacteristically long time.
What I've done:
-- Replaced spark plugs
-- Swapped the starter relays with identical relays under hood
-- Replaced fuel filter
What I haven't done:
--Replaced fuel pump
--Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Both of these are somewhat big jobs (I think I can handle both of them) and more expensive than what I've already done, so I'd like to get some input on where the fault could lie before picking one. Or, am I completely off base thinking it's fuel system?
We have a 2012 Nissan Altima. There have been 3 times that it would not start -all times were after a long drive and a trip to the coast! Battery is fine. Nissan dealership could find nothing wrong. Why this is happening ? Is it possible this is a censor /salt problem?
View 4 RepliesIs it true, to move a Honda hybrid one foot, you have to turn the engine on, or the engine will come on, then you can move?
View 19 RepliesI wrote about the problem I was having back in Jan 2014 (engine would crank too long if I left the car parked for 30 mins to 4 hrs) ..... well, I finally brought it o a good diagnosis tics place and some of the guys that replied to me we're correct ..... they told me that the crankshaft position sensor (1of 2 sensors) was faulty and replaced it.
View 3 RepliesI found an article that said Honda is updating the Civic hybrid to discharge the battery less deep and run the gas engine more for AC usage. The goal is to prolong the HV battery and it is making owners worry about loosing some MPG. How deep Honda BMS allow the battery to discharge (before and after update)?
View 15 RepliesThis is the msg I get from my 2007 civic hybrid, "Please check gas cap".
I checked the gas cap and it is as tight as can be. The car was working fine this morning (I use that word loosely, it's a POS), and then after I get off of work, the message shows up. I'm at a quarter tank right now, so I'll fill up tomorrow.
Driving home from work yesterday I noticed my car started having the vibration on and off during my commute. Traffic most of the time so I could feel it just reving the car up a bit. It happens going up from 600-1200 and back down I can feel it too.
View 2 RepliesI'm relatively new with my 2011 Prius. I've been averaging about 53.6 mpg, but I feel as if I can do better. I've set 54 mpg as this "magic number" that I'm aspiring to, but if I ever reach that, the number will probably rise to 55 and so on ... (As an aside, if I just set the cruise control while on the commute I'm about to describe, I get the same mileage as I do when I'm working on hypermiling, so I don't know if it's worth the effort with this route).
My daily commute is around 15 miles. About half of this is a hilly and curvy road. The PSL on that portion is 55 mph, and it is a two-lane (one lane in each direction) road. At least one of the hills are so steep that if I DWL, I'll lose between 15 to 20 mph from the bottom to the top; that's with the HSI "pegged" right before the power section of the line. I can maintain speed, or at least lose less, if I go into the power area. Additionally, there are several curves at the bottom of the hills where I must brake down to around 40 mph to safely negotiate the curve.
Finally, it is well-trafficked road as well, so, while observing the speed limit, I may have 10 cars piled up behind me, which makes me nervous.
I have an 07 with 81.5K miles. Just a few weeks ago I've noticed a "rumbling" sound when starting the car in the morning before my AM commute. To me it sounds like an exhaust issue. This sound is becoming more frequent and now occurs most of the time while I drive. The volume has not increased, only frequency. The engine sounds ok, and no lights or indicators are showing.
MPG performance is down from 45-50MPG to about 40MPG but I think this may be because it's been extremely cold here lately and maybe the gasoline bladder has shrunk? Anyways, what this could be? If it's an exhaust issue could it require replacing the entire exhaust system because it's a hybrid (one mechanic friend I have said this might be the case)? Could it be something as simple as getting a new muffler?
So over the past view days I have been hearing some sort of light squealing noise coming from my car during my daily commute. At first I though it was wind noise or something stuck in the grill of the bumper. When I looked the car over this morning, I didn't see any plastic or something caught in the grill to be causing the noise. Then I thought maybe its my wheels, brakes, or rotors but found out it wasn't that after hearing the noise stopped at a stop light. I did a few revs and heard slight squeal coming from the engine bay.
So I don't really know what to look for now. The sound is fairly faint, but a high pitch squeal.
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport and the Check Gauges Light has come on, it usually happens after during my commute and I have been on the freeway for about 10 minutes, I exit and at the first stoplight it comes on. Doesn't come on in normal around town driving, just in that situation each day. I took it in to my mechanic and twice and it still comes on, they said they replaced the oil pump. Anyway, could it be that the gauge light has to be reset? I don't see any leak after two days on the street now. I am at my wits end, before I take it to different mechanic, I'd like to see what the boards say.
View 3 RepliesWhen I first bought the car I was resetting the trip/mpg every day and getting a daily reading. Then I started to realize that wasn't accurate as a per tank reading. So now I judge my weekly trip/mpg. Currently I am getting 57-59 mpg on the MFD(I do not have a scangauge yet) - so i guess that would equal 54-57 actual.
My commute is 43 miles one way. half of it is mixed city driving a mile of low speed out of my neighborhood to a 55 mph with two 2 mile 35 mph zones and then the second half is interstate.
I have been working on keeping the SOC high for the 55 mph so that i can most of the time slip in and out of high speed "stealth" mode. Usually with the MFD around 69-75? and not drop speed too quickly. maybe a mph per 2 miles depending on the grade.
I try the pulse and glide in the 35 mph zones. coast in, then glide as far as I can and pulse back up. I have been playing with a couple ways,
OPTION 1: use in electric only-takes longer and kills SOC.
OPTION 2: Pulse hard into el+ICE and its crap mpg for a small amount of time. Pulse gently into ICE and decent mpg for a little longer amount of time.
I have a 35 mile (70 round trip) commute to work, all highway. I do some in town driving as well, but mainly the commuting. The price of gas is getting higher and I was thinking of getting a hybrid, but wonder if that is the best choice for my type of commute ? I drive a Honda CRV (04) which I love but maybe something smaller like a Civic would be better. I need room to occasionally put my 3 kids and hubby in and I want to feel safe in the snow.
View 13 RepliesThis is the 1.8, manual trans. Was involved in a moderate front collision. Car starts and runs, but not for long. What to check?
View 1 RepliesHow long should I expect my 2006 Prius (bought new in early 2007) battery to last? Right now I am at 52K miles after 3 years driving.
View 9 RepliesHave a 2003 gmc truck 1500hd. When i come to a stop or at idle , my ac blows warm air out. At cursing speed it blows cold air.
View 5 RepliesI've got the single zone a/c system -- On a hot day (here in VA a hot day is greater than 90 with high humitity), after the T has sat in the sun all day, it takes 10 or so minutes for the cabin to reach a comfortable temp, 69-70. By the way, I have the midnight blue with tan interior -- This could be a factor, you know, the dark car holds more heat scenerio.
I took it in last summer to ensure that the system was charged and operating at a normal level and I was told it was. A recent passenger questioned me as to why it took so long to cool off (and of course she mentioned that her 4runner cooled off way faster), I had no answer besides telling them to just be cool and the T will eventually will too.
I should have set a poll up, oh well, general comments are just as good. Side note -- Posting pictures, you do this through iServer? Or is the Insert Image icon just broken today?
How long it took to relearn the pressures? I pulled the ECU today to take some readings and reburn the chip. When I reset everything the tire pressure monitor went into learn mode. I have driven it around for 20 miles and the unit still has not cleared. My wife is not so sure she likes me doing development work on her Reg. The books are worthless on this subject.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 v8 lse with 92000. When i go to start it after it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more it cranks for a long tome before starting. When it does start it idles fine but has a strong fuel smell. There are no codes and no problems once it starts. However it starts up right away in cold weather. It seems like a flooding issue. The fuel pressure is within range but it does seem to bleed off quicker than most cars i work on when the engine is no longer running..
Unfortunately I don't have the specs on on fuel pressure runoff. I suspect the fuel pressure sensor/regulator. I don't believe it would be an injector due to the fact it never runs rough or misses once started and if it was the pump it wouldn't give off a fuel smell in the exhaust once started.