Nissan - Patrol :: 2002 - Stuttering And Stalling When Warm
Nov 22, 2015
I have a nissan patrol turbo diesel 2002 automatic. It starts fine idles fine drives fine for a bit then wen at operating temp it randomly loses power and stutters and sometimes stalls. It also shoots smoke out of exhaust wen this happens. It also seems to mainly happen at higher speeds. Engine light came on also. It starts straight away again even idles fine straight after but once it starts happening. I need to leave it for a while or go like 70 or less to be able to drive it.
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My vehicle has started to idle very rough, stuttering and almost dies at stop lights. It hesitates when accelerating, and really shakes and rattles if the AC is turned on. The check engine light and EPC lights are on. And even letting the foot off the brake in drive causes it to jerk along. I am up around 65k miles and have not had too many issues other than a fuel pump getting replaced last year. (the dealer first started replacing and charging me for many other items) I am scared to go back without trying to trouble shoot it myself.
What it could be and if there is anything I can try to correct it myself?
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I have a 2002 Camry XLE with 43k miles. When i accelerate from stop too quickly its as if the car cannot shift gears or something quick enough. It just stutters and then picks up as if nothing happened? This only happens when accelerating from zero.
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I had my car tuned up a month ago. The very next day, on cold start, the engine starts stuttering and the rpm got real low to the point where it almost shuts off. On more than one occasion it did shut off. If I press the gas peddle, it revs properly. I thought I'd give it some time to see if it got better, but it hasn't. Yesterday, in the middle of the day (car had been parked for 8 hours), on cold start it did it again (93 degrees outside, so it's not cold weather dependent). It stuttered when I came to the stoplight, and so I put it in park to hit the gas peddle and rev the engine to get it warmer. When I put it back into drive, it stuttered and shut off at the light. It never stuttered prior to the tuneup.
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Need proper information so I can repair whatever the heck is messed up on my '02 V10 4WD.
Periodically while driving (usually at lower speeds <50 mph) I feel a "Stuttering" in the steering wheel. It feels like the steering wants to swerve left or right for a brief second with no warning. This occurs to greater or lesser extent but so far not terribly and not so I loose control of the truck.
Although I haven't experienced this on the highway I do feel a slight tug now and then in either direction.
My local shop has verified that all of the ball joints have been replaced/greased and everything appears to be aligned and in good operating condition.
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I have a 2002 subaru forester that will stutter and backfire without throwing a code, but not all the time. i have had it hooked up to a computer to check the O2 sensors and they are fine, it has a new Throttle position sensor, knock sensor, plugs, and catalytic converters (all put on in the last month). I have called a dealership and they have not heard of this happening, so this is my last resort.
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I have a 89 chevy 1500, 5.7 pick up. I beleive it's referred to as the c/k series.
Recently I've been having some issues with stalling. When the engine is cold everything runs fine but after warm up I've noticed the problem start occurring.
When I'm doing a slow turn ( any direction) , backing up, or in stop and go traffic, the truck want to stall when I touch the gas pedal. Once I get past the intial slight throttle it picks up and does fine.
I've replaced the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter and even the fuel pump( mainly because it never gauged fuel correctly but I thought it might have a pressure issue).
Nothing seems to work and I'm not getting any codes.
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I have a 99 explorer AWD with the 5.0. It runs fine when the motor is cool or just bopping around town, But when it warms up or you have drove for 10 or 15 miles on the hwy, it stalls to about 150 RPM it stays that way for about 20 or 30 seconds then take off again for about 100 yards then repeats. It throws a code for a minor leak in the EVAP system and that is it...
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I have a 2002 jeep wrangler TJ, 4-cylinder and lately it has been stuttering/hesitating after the car reaches its' operating temp. To give more context, I've had a similar issue recently that a local mechanic said resulted from a bad o2 sensor and exhaust leaks. He fixed what he could and replaced the sensor. This fixed the issue, but he did mention there was another leak in the manifold that he couldn't get to? I asked him if it was okay to drive for the time being and he said yes. A couple months have passed and I'm now getting the same issue. I'm wondering if it is a result of the leak and if I've worsened the situation? Currently I'm noticing the same hesitation/stuttering accompanied now by a strong exhaust smell while driving. Also there seems to be a buildup on the engine itself as if there is an oil leak. I'm not 100% everything is related, but I'm willing to bet they have stemmed from the same unresolved issue.
I realize this jeep is 12 years old and that things are bound to happen. Unfortunately, I'm a broke college student and I've already spent quite a bit on other repairs recently. (new radiator, oil pressure sending switch, power steering sensor, leak repair, etc.) I'm at my wits end because this is my daily driver and I don't want to exacerbate the problem!
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2005 Camry LE with 4 cylinders , the problem now is it will stall after warm up. To drive it to 60mph speed, it will take 2 time than normal. very slow accelerating.
Will stall after 20 second car complete stop, and will not turn over after 5-10 minute later. I had all 4 new Denso spark plugs and Fuel injectors, clean Maf sensor, clean throttle body, replace coolant temperature sensor.
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I have owned my 2011 Tiguan VW since new. This winter it has developed a stalling problem after a warm start. It has never did this from a cold start. Just after I have been driving, stop for 20min to an hour, come back and start it. What happen is the car starts fine, I put it in drive and start to drive away, when I get about 50 feet, the engine cuts out. The only light on the dash are the battery light. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up. It doesn't do it every time, about every tenth time; just infrequently enough so it catches me off guard every time.
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My 1998 Dodge Neon has been stalling after it is warmed up. It runs great when the engine is cold but once the temperature gauge gets to the middle it stalls no matter how fast or slow I’m going. Once it stalls it won’t start for about 10 to 15 minutes while the engine cools a little. Then it will start and run fine for a few more minutes until the gauge reaches the middle and it will stall again. I’ve had my cam sensor, crank sensor, and ignition coil replaced and the problem hasn’t been fixed. When I bring it to the garage they tell me that no problem codes are showing up and by the time they look at it, it has cooled down enough to run and they can’t see a problem.
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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD, 6 cylinder car is in Tallahassee, florida and when the temperature is warm outside in the spring and summer and the car has been driven for awhile and is stopped (like for shopping) and you try to start it again, it will not start. However if you wait for awhile like 20-45 minutes the car will start but will rough idle for a little while and then it will smooth out and go ok. This appears to be random and does not happen in the fall and winter months.
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My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
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My cousin owns since brand new, a 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5, automatic, 61k miles (90% of that highway)-immaculate condition. No longer under factory warranty.
Driving to the airport a few days back the car starts-every 2 minutes or so- bucking and almost stalling, although it never did stall. He flies off and upon returning 5 days later, while driving back home the car starts acting up again. The symptoms are more severe now and getting progressively worse: there is loss of motive power and the max speed is 15-20 mph. He takes it straight to the local Nissan dealer on the way home. Nissan Dealer takes it in for diagnosys on the spot: leaking radiator internally, allowing coolant in the transmission.
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I have a 1998 Pathfinder with around 160,000 miles on it. This week it has had some issues with stalling when I am idling. The first time it happened, I was at a stoplight and it cut out 3 times and I was able to start it back up and drive the rest of the way home (40 miles) with no problem. The next time it started stalling out I was at a stoplight and was able to put it in neutral and rev the engine and it stayed on. I have a 45 mile commute to and from work every day, and I don't want this to happen when I am on the highway going 65mph.
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Recently while driving in good weather, no rain, about 35 mph my 2003 Nissan Maxima stalled. It failed to restart on the first try, but on the second, started right up without trouble and has been fine since. I took it to a garage where they could find no obvious problem. They said I might have 3 things done to potentially address the issue:
1) replace the air filter
2) do an "idle relearn procedure"
3) flush the fuel induction system.
Whether these would be a good idea, or whether I should just ignore the problem?
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I just bought my first truck ever, ended up with a 2002 F250 SuperDuty V8 5.4. I'm fairly handy with vehicles but can't seem to figure out the issues I'm having. I searched the threads and have tried a number of this solutions, but to no avail.
1) The truck runs smooth above roughly 1700 RPM, but between 1300&1700 there is a distinct stutter and shaking of the entire truck. Although the check engine light does not come on the Scanner indicates a misfire in cylinder #3 and I've replace the plugs and coil, but it's still there. Fuel filter has been recently replaced and seafoam run thru the tank and vacuum line. The mechanic at the local mom & pop shop said it is most likely a damaged valve in #3. Am I missing anything? Do you think a valve job is necessary?
2) When I got out of the truck tonight the radio stayed on, I tried the WD-40 fix (no luck), additionally checked the fuses (all in proper condition). Not sure if this relates but the auto door locks started acting up as well and the door ajar light stays on all the time. I saw a post about a "VSM" but what or where that is.
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I have a 2006 Sentra that over the last few months on a few occasions (3-4) when driving on the highway would jolt into the next gear.
Last week, the car simply died on me waiting at a light and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. The car did not start again for about a minute. It did. When I drove it home, the car accelerated slightly on its own into the driveway. I took it into the local Nissan dealer. They found no error codes of any kind. They recommended a whole bunch of things that more or less needed to get done anyways but the pertient one is that they flushed and refilled the transmission fluid and replaced the filter.
I'm pretty sure this isn't a transmission issue but... not ruling anything out. Hoping it is not a transmission issue.
So I took the car home. A week of local light driving with no issues. I got on the highway yesterday to go to a meeting and the RPMs start fluctuating wildly from 1500-3500. I got off the highway and the car stalled out on me three times on the 10 mile or so drive back to the dealership. It did start on those occassions right away.
They claim they've had multiple people test driving the car over the last couple of days and no one is experiencing what I did. Still no error codes anywhere.
I absolutely do not feel safe driving this thing on the highway at this point. What do I do? They seem to be at the end of their diagnostic capabilities and short of randomly repairing every single part on a ten year old car that might be causing this seems... silly.
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2000 Nissan Xterra 2x4. 185,000 miles. I recently took the car to the mechanic a couple of days ago and had the IACV/TPS sensor replaced. Afterwards I had to tighten the throttle cable because of a grinding noise. Now the car putters slightly, then it seems to come close to stalling. This occurs while idling, while parked and at red lights, as well when driving. While in motion the car shudders and shakes slightly, as if on a bumpy road, but its fresh pavement. While these symptoms occur the RPMs (avg=900rpms) fluctuate; spiking to nearly 2,000rpms then plummeting to 3-400rpms. Notes:
(1) I found that the wire coupling on the distributor was broken (Probably Mechanic). However, the metal prongs for the coupling seem intact (Picture).
(2) Not original distributor (from Cardone Select), I do have the original though.
(3) Spark plug wires are original (old) except for 1.
(4) Spark plugs are a bit old, not that old though I think.
(5) It occurs more often during the cold, snow, and rain.
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My car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
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