Sometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
View 4 Replies2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
View 24 Replies96 sebring 2.5l v6 non-convertibleRan terribly for 12 blocks when I bought it, then died and wouldn't start.Bought it because friend said that mechanic had told him it just needed the head gasket changedReplaced the head gasket then it would crank but not start
checked, getting spark and compression on all 6 cylindersreplaced:-ecm-crank position sensor-combination distributor/camshaft position sensor/coil-flushed fuel system and replaced gas. checked everywhere for possibly misconnected wires and possible misconnected vacuum tubes, they are all triple checked ok. Checked the timing about a dozen times. Checked for misaligned timing sprockets, all ok, no sheared keyways, valves open and close at appropriate times / correct order and crankshaft timing mark matches cyl 1 position.
Fuel pressure is great.Turns over but doesn't fire at all.
About a month ago my 2002 accent started intermittently turning on. The car cranks nice and strong when it doesn't start-(until the battery loses too much power from repeated cranking). When it does start, it happens instantaneous, no issues no hard start.
I have talked to multiple people with varying amounts of automotive experience, who have given many things to try.
Things I've replaced or tested, hoping they were an issue:
-Starter and relay
-Fuel pump and filter, as well as relay for pump.
-Battery, post connectors and wires to starter
-Alternator and belt
-Multimeter tested fuel injectors and ran fuel system cleaner for last 3 fill ups
-Replaced spark plugs and wires
-Ran fuel line antifreeze every 2 tanks or so
Things I've been told might contribute to the intermittent starting, but haven't looked into
-Inconsistent fuel pressure
-water in the fuel tank
-Bad ignition switch
-MAF sensor
I live in area, currently in the icy grip of winter. I thought the cold would be a huge contributing factor, but alas, when the car has fired up the temperature has ranged from 1 to -32 degrees and has no issues starting in the deep cold.
I have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
I have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Ranger 4X4 4L AUTO. About once every 6 months it will not start. It cranks just fine but doesn't fire. After about 45 min. it start and runs great for an other 6 Months. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap but it hasn't solved the problem. It has had this problem when it is cold and warmed up.
View 4 RepliesMy 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
2002 E-250 with the 4.6 V-6. Pulled the 30 amp fuse, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuse, now the truck wont start. Checked the fuse and the kill switch under the passenger kick cover, all ok. Cranks and cranks but wont fire. No problem prior to changing the filter. Even swithed out the relay with another, no luck.
View 4 RepliesI've followed steps 2-6 from this image
I don't feel any pressure in the hose from the fuel filter. I can hear a buzz (guessing its from the fuel pump) but no pressure.
I've checked both fuses, the efi main relay, and swapped out the circuit opening relay with a known good one and all checked out good. Only thing left is the fuel pump or the writing and electrical connectors.
Car has pretty much took a dump one morning and has almost no power. I can't find anything else wrong with this car besides this. Is the fuel pump the problem even though I can hear the pump?
Geo won't start. It has a new battery and air filter. Just replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. I don't hear the fuel pump "whirring" when I put the key in the ignition (to on position). All the dashboard lights come on when the car is in on position.
I suspect the relay or the fuse, but having trouble finding the correct one of each. What does the relay look like? i.e. part number? What is the spec for the fuse? 20amp 30 amp? This has been a great car.
I'm working on one of our fleet vehicles here, a 1995 Explorer. about 2 months back, it stalled out. Got it back to the shop and turned the key on .... I couldn't hear the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. Vehicle started right up and seemed to run O.K. About 2 weeks ago, it stalled out again, same symptoms, acts like it runs out of gas and can't hear fuel pump.So, I have been playing with it and find that it starts up great in the cool mornings. In the afternoon when the temps are hotter, it won't start (can't hear fuel pump). The following morning when temps are cool, it will start right up and can hear the fuel pump. I almost wrote this one off as a defective fuel pump, but I'm not sure on this one.
View 7 RepliesGot done with replacing head gaskets and intake gaskets, Van started fine and I backed it out of the garage. Left it running and put down ramps and drove up on them so I could get under and connect the exhaust. Got that done and then got back in it and all it will do is crank and it will not start now. It also has a new cam shaft sensor( wire broke on old one). I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. It is like now there is no fire to start it. What could be wrong? What do I check? What causes it to fire? If something was connected wrong, would it have still started and then wont do anything but crank? Got dark on me and started raining so I say tomorrow is another day. I feel it is something simple.
View 4 Replieswhen I turn key I should hear fuel pump, I don't. I can jump pump & it will run but it still won't start. I reset inertia switch, switched pumps (new one) still won't start. What next????
View 1 RepliesPerformance problem Caprice royale 2005 LS1 Engine Gulf space V8 180000 KM its showing messages:
1 - Service Vehicle Soon
2 - Safety Mode - Reduced Performance
And could not go above 80kmh.
I Changed Throttle and fuel pump , spark plug but still same problem.
It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
sears says my emmision won't pass because my check engine light will not come on when starting engine but it does go on when you only turn to the on position
View 2 RepliesRecently have developed a strong gas smell in my 2002 Olds Bravada. I have checked around getting no where fast I have been told the culprit maybe the fuel pressure regulator but with the engine running and I am under the hood. There is no odor there is no odor outside the vehicle at all only inside...
View 16 RepliesI've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.