Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Stuck In 1st And Then Suddenly With A Lurch Shifting Into 2nd After Few Blocks Of Driving
Oct 14, 2007
I posted a few days ago about my 99 Passat Wagon getting stuck in 1st and then suddenly (with a lurch) shifting into second after a few blocks of driving. After three weeks of investigation my mechanic, who is a VW certified mechanic, changed the Transmission Input Speed Sensor Assembly (automatic transmission) but a day later the problem continued.
I've now discovered that when I shake the gear shift between neutral and drive, it jumps into gear. I'm taking it back tomorrow (10-15-07). What is this?
When I called him last week after his repairs didn't work he started talking about replacing the entire transmission which scares the heck out of me. Every other gear seems fine after getting out of first and I really don't want to spend thousands of dollars because his diagnostic won't register the real problem.
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My passat is a 1.8t automatic with roughly 170k on it and lately i have been encountering some issues with the tranny. I have had this problem for a while and as of late it seems to be getting worse (especially with the AC on????). After driving up a hill the car seems to have difficulties shifting into the next gear on its own, typically 2nd to 3rd but sometimes 1st to 2nd, sometimes I even have to switch over to the triptronic and up shift manually.
Also when i am driving along in 4th or 5th and encounter a hill the car doesn't want to downshift on its own without giving it some pedal play, or sometimes I have to play the same game and switch over to the triptronic and downshift manually (hoping to save to tourqe converter). I dont know much about the tranny on this car, but i do know that their not cheap!
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So my car has recently begun having an issue shifting hard into drive after it warms up. It doesnt shift weird in any other gear or while driving. I had the trans temp sensor replaced last year under the tsb due to it shifting weird in all gears and a CEL. I was thinking either the fluid level or another bad sensor.
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The other day, in sub zero weather I left my radio and lights on as I ran into the store to grab washer fluid. The engine was turned off, but I did leave the radio on for my buddy.... I was in the store for a max of 5 mins. I get back into the car, go to turn it back on...... and nothing.... ZERO juice.... now I've had the radio on before for a much longer period of time without the engine running and have had no problem.
We ended up jumping the car and it started up with no problem. I let it idle for a bit but then all of the light on my dash came on..... I reved the engine a bit and they all went away.
A few days pass and the car starts up with no problem. Then I get stuck sitting in underground parking, so I turn the car off while I wait for the cars to exit the garage... again listening to music with the car off... go to start and nooooo juice! Being that the car is manual I was able to get it rolling and then popped the clutch..
224,000kms and counting.... all OEM
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I have an '02 Camry XLE (1MZ-FE) with around 175k miles on it. I've never done any transmission maintenance on it until recently (I was one of those dopes who believed my mechanic when he told me that the fluid didn't ever need changing).
A couple weeks ago, I started noticing a bit of a lurch when I was driving. It wouldn't ever affect the RPMs or anything and it was only ever an instantaneous thing so I didn't let it bother me too much. About 3 weeks ago it started getting worse and rapidly deteriorated into a problem. The engine started doing it in idle and it would happen numerous times (sometimes, when I'm driving in the city, it happens as many as 3 times a minute or so).
I immediately attributed the problem to the transmission and did 2 drain and fills with a synthetic fluid that's rated to meet Type-IV WS standards. The problem hasn't gone away, so either the problem in the transmission is a lot worse than I'd hoped, or there's something else wrong.
I ran an OBD-II code reader on it and have been getting an O2 sensor code. I was planning on replacing both of the O2 sensors to see if that fixed the problem. I was thinking that the lurch that I was feeling was just engine misfires caused by the O2 sensors sending bad info, leading to the engine running lean (the engine hasn't been overheating).
Either way, I need to put in new O2 sensors, but yesterday while I was driving to work, the engine almost completely stopped supplying power. It kept running, but no matter how hard I pushed the pedal, the vehicle wouldn't move any faster. I pulled over, turned it off, and turned it back on, and it worked again, but the VSC and traction control lights went on.
Does this sound like a transmission problem, or is there something in the ECM that would cause these kind of things now that the O2 sensors have gotten so bad?
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After driving for about 15 minutes the car starts to lurch. regardless of the speed. it gets worse if and when i accelerate. If i rev up the engine, it feels like a lose in power and also like something in the engine is skipping. I changed fuel filter under the hood and the strainer on the fuel pump (not the fuel pump) thinking they might have been clogged up and the engine wasn't getting enough fuel.
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I still drive the '88 Wrangler I bought in Oct '87. She has 171,000 miles. Recently I had a rebuilt motor,transmission, etc... installed. I had the existing carb rebuilt. This summer, while driving at any speed, the tach would drop to zero and the whole car would lurch. Sometimes so violently my seatbelt would lock up. After a couple miles of lurching it would backfire several times. This is very scary.
Here's the really bizare issue - now that the weather is cold, the issue has substantially (not completely) diminished. On a warm day in the 50's it will act up again. I live in Watkins Glen, NY. Yes, I'm a (Indy Car) racing fan. What can I do?
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Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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I was driving the car and suddenly started to vibrate and to give signs of stopping. The car doesn't have power now. I stopped the engine then start it. The idle rpm was instable and the engine stopped by himself. After i tryed harder to start, the engine started and the message Engine Fault Workshop and the sparking plug sensor apeared blinking.With that message and sensor notification on screen the car sounds normal and the rpm is idling..but after a restart the messages disappeared and the engine was again going wrong.
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Asking for my Dad. Driving lights suddenly quit coming on. dealer checked fuses - no problem. Dealer (oil change guy) not sure how to access lights for bulb checking or replacement. Says you need to remove front bumper cover...
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The engine of our VW Passat 2000 quit suddenly while driving home on freeway. Night. Rain. We put on the flasher lights as we were slowing while trying to move to the right lane. No shoulder as we we were on a bridge. Do not remember being rammed from behind. Had a new battery installed one month earlier after VW mechanics could find no reason for intermittent non-starting of car which we had been experiencing. They had run "fault codes".
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About 5K miles after putting on 18x8.5 rims with 235-40 tires noted bad reverberating droning tire noise and noticed stairstep pattern of excessive wear on inside tread blocks, equal on all 4 wheels. Is this just from going from OEM ET47 to ET35? Is camber adjustment indicated and is camber adjustable also on the rear wheels? (Of course, noise and reverberation gone when OEM wheels put back on)
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I've been noticing that my 2012 Passat TDI with 125,000 miles, hasn't been shifting to 6th gear when driving down the highway. I've actually noticed it's one gear too low even when driving down city streets. We have been experiencing extreme cold weather in Pennsylvania, so perhaps that's a factor.
If I manually shift to 6th gear, it stays in gear, but it appears that the engine RPMs are a bit lower than usual as well, but I could be wrong there.
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I have a brand new 2010 Passat. I am unable to achieve a smooth start from stops and the car will lurch forward when I take my foot off the brake. Any small input from the gas pedal produces a jumpy start to the acceleration process. I have about 300 miles on the car. I bought this for my wife and she is very uneasy about driving it.
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I have a quick question, but thinking of changing out my stock OEM rear axle blocks for the 2012 F350 SD 4x4 SRW type.
Does it matter what the wheelbase is?? Model being a CC, SC, etc?
Or...are all 2012 F350 SRW rear axle blocks the same?
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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I have a 2014 F350 (specs in my signature) and I want to change the 4" rear blocks out for F250 2" blocks to lower the rear of the truck.
Looks like a fairly straight forward replacement but I have a few questions.
Will the shocks need to be replaced? I do eventuality want to replace them as the stock ones are not that great but I only have 2500 miles on them.
When I do order new shocks for my truck after the changing the blocks do I order shocks for a F250?
I would like to go OEM parts for this but I am having trouble finding the blocks and u-bolts that I need. What are the part numbers for these?
Anything else I should know about to do this swap?
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Description of Problem: 1999 mercury cougar 2.5L V6 automatic trans: I was driving down the road and suddenly lost power. The engine was still running but sounded a little rough so i turned it off. then it wouldn't start. After having it parked for a couple months i started looking ant it and notice that the starter is spinning the flexplate but the harmonic balance isn't turning. It does turn by hand with a socket. After talking to a mechanic i was told a used motor would run. He said i broke the crank or timing chain? I thought if it was the timing chain the harmonic balancer would still turn, he didn't agree. and i thought it was unlikely that the crank would just break driving down the road. What it could be? or how i can narrow it down. If the flexplate or bolts broke off would that cause my problem?
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This started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again on the freeway. No CEL on any occasion.
It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke during starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different? This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. What could be going on?
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2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
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I don't know what is wrong with my truck. I don't know what this symptoms called, but It felt like it was missing a beat. The engine suddenly lost power for a second or two wile driving. It did this few times. Is it the engine or the transmission? No check engine light is on. 2001 F250 5.4 V8
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