Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Oil Leaks From The Engine Causing Smoke
May 3, 2010
I have a 2000 V6 full motion passat wagon. Was having oil leaks from the engine that caused the car to smoke. Took it to the mechanic, needed to get into the engine block and since it was at 92,000+ miles they said it would be wise to replace timing belt and water pump to save funds later. However 2 months later, my ABS light and Brake warning light came on and continued to do so intermittently. Took it in, they hooked it to their computer couldn't find a thing we played this game for a month. Had to have emissions done, check engine light came on in addition to ABS they did emission test (w/o clearing the codes) the car pasted. Could these problems be attributed to the timing belt replacement. Car was great never had a hitch before they touched the engine.
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2001 GL 1.5 Litre. Car occasionally hesitates a little with AC off, but runs pretty well. But with the air conditioner on?
Stalls about 50% of time when backing with A/C on. From stoplights, sputters all the way through intersections with A/C on, sometimes backfires. On a few occasions, the Check Engine light will blink on and off while it's doing this. After it gains a little speed/rpm, though, it's all good again, light goes back off.
Had full tune-up just before we bought it 4,000 miles ago. Air filter clean. Not sensors, because the CEL goes back off by itself. What the heck? How could the A/C cause a backfire?
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the car 07 passat wagon fsi auto value edition.. This is my first winter in Maine and I've noticed by 35 degrees F and colder when vehicle is at operating temp and then I use the cabin blower say 72 degrees or hotter on fan speed 2; causes engine temp to drop maybe 10-15 degrees. Car reaches operating temp quickly! And coolant concentration seems right!
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I have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
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Originally, the inciting event was a plume of smoke coming from under my hood. I had the car towed and they said my radiator blew up and did the repair. A week later, I was smelling what I thought was radiator fluid. I took it back and they said I had three major oil leaks. My wife didn't understand why they did spot the leaks just a week earlier, if they were that major? All that said, I had been going there for awhile, so I trusted them. They fixed, or they said they fixed, all three leaks but when they returned the car, it would kind of rattle intermittently whenever the car was stopped but running.
I had no such problem before bring it in for the other issues. They kept it for another few days, almost a month in total with all the repairs and they said they got it to where it was barely noticeable. Well now, just two weeks late, it has been getting worse and worse, the rattling of the car when the car is stopped. And tonight, all of my warning lights suddenly came on- engine warning, brakes, everything all at once. I spent two and half grand with this shop and they returned it with a problem it didn't even have before. It needs timing belt, that was the next thing to get repaired.
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On a few occasions I had leakage from the front of my tranny causing smoke. It happened again yesterday and when I checked I was down a quart of fluid. This morning everything was fine, no leaks all day and the tranny works fine, I tow a heavy work trailer. My search here shows that this is a common problem from the front pump seal and that it gets worse in time. Went to a tranny shop and the guys says the torque converter isn't locking up and overheating the tranny and causing the leak. He also said that if it leaked all the time then it would be the front pump seal. Anyhow he says it need to be rebuilt, new converter and all that stuff.
2000 f-250 V-10 121000 miles
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Our family has a 2003 Accent with 94k, automatic, and one very weird issue besides the teen that drove it last. Ok, towed it home, thought the battery or starter was bad. Replaced starter, battery. Same problem, won't turn over. When you turn the key, engine advances about one inch at a time, meaning the flywheel rotates one inch on each key turn. Ok, here is the weird part: Smoke drifts out of the transmission near the access plate between the trans and the engine! Like there is a smoldering fire inside? The wire off of the battery terminal that goes to the fuse block gets very hot as well. Where do I start? What it is, unless the torque converter is stuck or some solenoid is burned up?
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Ten days ago I had the "Camshaft Plug" and the "Oil Pressure Light Switch" replaced on my 2000 Honda CR-V 2.0L 1972CC L4 with 206,000 miles on it. Today the car (engine) is bucking and a very small amount of smoke is coming out from the front fender side of the engine at the center (as you look from left to right) from what appears to be near the cover gasket.When it started to buck only about a mile from my house I return immediately and shut it off. The temperature gauge never moved from the normal position and the car seem to buck more when it was going slower. What might be wrong? Also could the replacement of the two engine parts I mentioned have anything to do with the current problem?
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I started smelling smoke after driving, so i open up the hood and theres smoke coming out near the engine....just to the right side...my temp read 190 which is where it supposed to be so where could this smoke be coming from? My bro who knows alot about cars said its not from the engine but does not know exactly what it is?
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Alright, my dad taken it to a mechanic, and guess what, it's still there. Only happens when the engine's warmed up. This is pretty much all I know, but it comes in through the a.c. and seems to come out of the engine compartment on the passengers side.
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So I just did a little simple engine cleaning, didn't even really use a whole lot of degreaser. Any way, the car was smoking a little bit and figured it was normal wet gunk burning off, but then my car started smoking out of the exhaust pretty bad. What this could be!?!?
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So the other day I went to the mechanic for him to see what code(s) were causing my CEL. He simply told me that there was an issue with the throttle body and it didn't know what position to be in; he cleared the codes, clean the throttle body and said if the light came on again I needed a new tb. The CEL came back on, but his diagnosis doesn't make sense to me.
From what I've researched if the throttle body had this issue the car would run like crap; however, it runs fine. Smooth idle, good throttle response, accelerates smoothly through the rev range, and I'm still getting decent fuel economy. Given that, it doesn't seem like it's the TPS either, and the tb was just cleaned so I'm confused. Could it actually be the throttle body, or is there some sensor that has just gone bad? The car is a 2000 Golf with an AEG engine & 5-speed box.
And here are a couple pic for clicks of a stock-ish car.....
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Yesterday right after driving over a speed bump my car started smoking and the engine light flashed. it seemed of burning plastic. The part smoking is under the engine cover of the passenger side . it is a metal box with a plastic plug and looked to have "fins" the car also threw codes P301 and P2300. The car is a 2006 is this a coil.
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I've got this weird problem , it started a month ago. Sometimes I would drive for half a hour, park the car, stop then engine and some white smoke comes out of the hood after a few seconds. But sometimes I can drive the same amount of time, park, stop the engine but no white smoke.
The only time I did notice it happening is when my temperature gauge isn't working properly , sometimes it will give the right reading (which is right on the middle) and while driving it will drop to 0. Also sometimes there is a smell of rubber burning I think (Doing my best here). But I've checked Google for people with my problem but all I read is either people with tail pipes issues or smoke directly in the drivers cabin. My white smoke is only when I kill the engine. There is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe nor in my cabin. Only a rubber burn kind of smell.
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So I recently purchased a used Megan Racing 2.5" downpipe off a fellow Vortexer. Today I installed the downpipe and straight race pipe. After installing, my brother and I noticed a grayish smoke coming from the engine bay. Further looking revealed the smoke seems to be coming from the flex pipe mesh on the downpipe. What could be causing this??
Downpipe does not have a lot of mileage. No leaks. Brand new VW gasket was installed between the turbo and downpipe. Smell of smoke does not seem to be oil burning - seems more like a metal/gasket burning smell. Grayish color from what we could tell at night. Turbo still spools. No lights on dash.
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Today me and my son installed a new K&N air intake on his 98' passat 1.8t, everything looks good but when you start it up the engine does not idle properly and it now starting to smoke.. Also it is leaking some sort of black gunk out of the exhaust pipe, we didn't drive it but when you give it some gas it hardly accelerates.
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I installed a JDM 2ZZ-GE engine and 6 speed manual trans-axle into my 2000 Celica GT.
I have ran into a interesting problem. I replaced the output shaft seals and now whenever the car is in the air and the suspension is unloaded (the drive axle is pulled slightly from the trans) the drivers side seal leaks a bit of gear oil. The drive axle is snapped into place. Nothing leaks when the car is on the ground.
I did reuse the old drive axles, which had a lot of miles on them but still appeared good and useable. I have been told to replace the new seal because it may be damaged, but I am wondering if it may be that the drive axle end is worn.
I have seen this with harmonic balancers for engines. They even sell a replacement sleeve for harmonic balancers so you can re-use the old worn one.
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I own a 2000 Ford F250 4x4 equipped with the 5.4L and an auto trans that was purchased 2 yrs ago. Last summer we had some noise and leaks from the trans. Dealership fixed us with with a new pump and torque converter, fixed the problem. Now I have an issue where the truck will go into reverse, but will not go into any forward gears. Fuid level is fine, no signs or symptoms of overheating, no noises, or symptoms of something obvious. My son drives the truck and has stated that sometimes the park/safty switch gives him problems when trying to start the vehicle, he has to "wiggle" the shifter (or put in Nuetral) to get it to start. I'm thinking maybe the shifter/linkage may be loose or something, rather than a real transmission problem.
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Occasionally I get blue smoke in the engine compartment with a sweet smell after a long drive. No malfunction lights, oil, brake, coolant, power steering fluids all are normal level. VW service doesn't have a clue, says just drive it until it breaks down. He also informed I should never use Tiptronic for braking since it could damage the transmission(we live in the mountains). What is it for anyway? We use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, and it is not overfilled. Car has 120k miles.
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Naturally, the dealer service close to me and my regular repair shop are both closed today, so my mind is racing. My check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and I have been waiting for my guy to get back for it's full 80+K workup/service. That was to be right away.
This morning on my 5 mile trip to work after my car sitting for a day, the check engine light came on as usual (with no seeming weird behavior) - but as I was going through some S-curves, the EPC light came on and it felt as if the engine was throttling down, not knowing how to shift, something.
I wasn't far from my parking lot so I drove on here, parked nose out and popped the hood. Nothing visible (not that there would be necessarily) but weird exhaust smell.
I just went back out after lunch and it cranked for a good 20+ seconds over three start attempts before it finally did. Tach went all low and jiggly before kicking in and revving steadily at 1K. However, white puffs of smoke began coming out the exhaust - weird smell (e.g., unburnt fuel perhaps...)
I'm only in a mild panic as I'll likely have to have this towed in and I don't have a clue what I'm facing. I get conflicting tales online as to what it might be but I'd love to impose on your brains if you have some insight to share. I've read about coil packs, throttle bodies, and more.
The only mechanical issue I've had with this engine was that I had the intake manifold assembly replaced right after my warranty went out. Had the throttle body cleaned then, too. Nothing since other than regular services according to vw standards.
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Am I the only one who has to add 10 psi a week to his tires? I have the stock GLX wheels from 2001 model year, and found out a while back that they are actually painted. The paint flakes off, and there's a bit of corrosion on the bead as well causing persistent leaks. When I have tires changed, my mechanic smooths off the wheels with a grinding tool and often applies some sort of gooey adhesive to maintain a seal, but it doesn't seem to work for long.
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