Passat (B5) :: 2002 / 1.8T - Knock Sensor Code 16711 (P0327)


Dec 1, 2010

So a letter history about the car and this car is a friends car. They owned the car and drove without changing the timing belt when the car hit 109k. So the timing belt snapped and they went out and bought a timing belt and also the timing belt kit with the pulleys and all. They installed it.. didnt turn over or what so ever.

They towed the car to us which we own an auto repair shop. We knew the valves was bent and so we tore off the heads send them off to have them put new valves and etc etc.. We put the car back together for them and now the car runs fine. They pick it up and about a few days later they brought it back due to a check engine. It threw the code:

16711 - Knock sensor 1-G61 Signal too low. (p0327)

now we replaced both knock sensors and when they came and got the car... the check engine light came back one showing the same code. We cleared it out and the next day it came back on showing the same code Again! So now we don't have a clue why that code keeps coming up because we replaced both sensors with a new one. Any clue why the code keeps popping back up?

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Avalon 2005-12 :: Check Engine Light On And Code Is P0327 (Knock Sensor)

So, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.

I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?

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I was looking at a discussion back in 2010 and the Subaru specialist told the person needing motor mounts is rare for a Subaru, is that true? I'm taking it to a mechanic, what should I expect? how many motor mounts does a subaru have?

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I have a '07 Passat Wagon 2.0T with 80K miles. I just had the carbon scrubbed off the valves (looked like black popcorn stuck in there!) and now I'm getting a "P0327 Knock Sensor 1" light. The motor seems to run just fine (actually much better now without the carbon build-up). I'll clear the code but it will show up again the next day.

What could cause the code? Could it be related to the recent scrubbing (fully removed and replaced the valve cover in the process), perhaps a chunk of carbon floating around in the tubes somewhere? I want to go back to the guys that performed the service but I want to have a good idea of what could be the problem and the fix before I get there.

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I have a 2002 GLX Wagon 2.8 30v, and was getting Cat warm up threshold low code, on the driver side due to the cat being bad. As a temp fix I decided to use spark plug haulers to gap the sensor. When I removed the O2 sensor I wiped the dirt off with a paper towel, which was clean and dry. I put the sensor back on, but now I am getting 4 codes which won't go away. p0036 p0056 p0141 p0161. These are O2 heater circuit codes both bank 1 and 2. I did not touch bank 2 so I don't know how I could have caused this error. I tried to take off bank 2 sensor but it is really stuck on there.

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Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Check Engine / VSC Lights On - P0333 Knock Sensor Code

I just purchased a 2006 GS300 AWD w/115k. Started car on lunch hour to find check engine / check VSC lights on. Ran codes to find P0333 Knock Sensor code. Vehicle seem to run perfectly fine, but now that the light is on, it is definity spark knocking under acceleration. This is my first Lexus / Toyota product, so I am unfamiliar with the common problems or fixes. Are knock sensor replacements common?

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Code P0326 - Can A Knock Sensor Be Influenced By Heavy Bass?

I have upgraded my sound system in my car and sometimes i get a P0326 check engine light.

Now i was wondering if its possible that the Heavy bass ( 25/40 Hz, 1200 Watt RMS and 2500 watt Max) Subwoofers could cause the car to vibrate so much that it sets of the knock sensor?

I have read some things about it but i only found that several "Old" cars with OBDII would have this problem? Is that the same on this hyundai accent?

It only comes once in a while after long cruises and bumping.

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I have a 2006 VW Jetta with 92K miles and just a couple of days ago my check engine late came on and when i took to an auto store to check the code, it came as P0332, Knock sensor 2 in bank 2 is faulty. Three things have happened all around the same time and I am not sure if they are related and are just coincidence.1.Check engine light came on.2. I have noticed after that, my car RPM has dropped, idles at about 600-700RPM and when trying to accelerate, it tops at 3000 RPM and feels like the motor cuts off at that point and I have to step off the gas and the car runs ok again, but cant go over 3000.

Had trouble getting on the interstate due to this and thought the car was going to stall, but it didn't. just had to back off the gas and let it run, It did go up to the speed that I wanted, but seems like it wont go past the 3000 RPM point.3. My fuel gauge, drops to empty when it reaches the half way mark on the meter. It stays at the correct level when I start and keep the car in idle, but when I start moving, it drops to empty. When I fill up the tank, it goes all the way to F, and after the car goes the usually of about 190-210 miles, when It reaches the half full level, the meter drops to zero, so have been using my trip odometer to drive after that.

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Should I clear all DTCs and then run a scan a couple of days later to see what codes I truly have? Or should I address this code?

If yes, what should I do about this code? Do I need to buy a new knock sensor or should I check the wiring first with a voltmeter?

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I replaced the water pump. Huge problem. I will get rid of the car before I replace that again. But, it is replaced and the car is functioning.

Unfortunately, the check engine light remains on and I still get p0327(knock sensor) code and car has a slight ruff run.I have the Actron code reader(fairly cheap, but effective) and it will clear the vsc but not the check engine. Upon restart, the check engine light reappears in 7 seconds followed by the vsc symbol. This has been for a week now. So I have been dreading tackling this project next. But I figure if I'm doing this, I better change the rear plugs and maybe the rear coil packs as well.

Don't want to do this, but whether I do it or send it to the dealership, once is all I'm gonna do. I say all of this and yesterday, the check engine light goes away on its own and full power is back and ruff run gone.

I still plan to go into the engine this year because my car just hit 120,000 miles and i have to change my plugs. If it recurs, I will change it all. I will just wait. Only going in once.

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My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?

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Just to confirm, there are two A/F sensors in the V6 model? I can see the front one easily but not the rear one. Need to identify which sensor needs replacement?

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While it may be a wire issue, I still plan to replace the sensor. So the question is;

Can I get to it from under the vehicle or is there an access panel under the console like on the 2nd gens?

I have the sensor on order and plan to get it done on my days off next week.

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