Passat (B5) :: 2007 - EPC And CE Lights On / Revving Really High Before Acceleration
Jun 21, 2012
I have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
I called around to a few mechanics but they all want to see the car and run the computer codes on it before they even tell me what's wrong with it; which I am loathe to do just yet because I don't want them to charge me an extra $100 for a diagnostic for a repair I may not even get done with that mechanic. Meanwhile I'm driving around feeling like I should put my feet on the ground like Fred Flintstone to gain speed.
In the research I've done online, I've seen that it may be an issue with the throttle wire or some other wiring issue.
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I have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
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We are planning on taking our 07 Explorer in to the dealer to have them check on a couple of issues. 4.0 with auto and about 45,000 miles on the ody.
1. While taking off after waiting at a stop light or slow speed traffic crawling there is a high revving sound coming from the engine compartment. Sounds like the fan is over revving compared to the engine speed.
2. Recently the truck has a hard time going into reverse. Physically hard to move the gear select lever and there is a hard "thunk" when it does actually shift into reverse.
I just want to be armed with information before heading to the dealer. The truck is still under a warranty plan, I just need to be prepared. Could it have to do with the Transmission Range/Position Sensor?
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My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
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Recently I was driving on the highway, about 70 miles into my trip, when all of a sudden my cruise control kicked out and the rpms went high and then I lost acceleration. I pulled over to the berm and tried to take off. Problem is I could not get the car past 30mph because the accelerator pedal could. not be pushed down more than an inch or two no matter how hard I pushed. What could be wrong???
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My company has a fleet of about 20 2007 GL AWD Santa Fe's. A few of them have had a strange problem....AWD, ESC, and check engine lights will turn on and they will lose acceleration of the vehicle. The dealership has said that it is a problem with the electronic throttle. Apparently it has been quite dangerous for some who have been driving at highway speeds and lost acceleration.
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I have just changed my clutch and machined my flywheel on my 1.5ltr 16v dohc 2000 lc accent. I used all the correct trans fluid and refilled and bled the clutch fluid. It takes of from lights like a new car but if you put your foot down around 40kph it revs out a bit and does so through all gears untill you reach a bit of speed. What is going on?
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I own a 2006 B6 and I'm just ticking down the list of common repairs... The last series started with boost lost anytime the car was pulling a steep hill or high acceleration. Eventually I lost boost altogether. I replaced the PCV valve and got back a little power but still no boost. This last weekend I replaced the DV valve. The old one was visually shot. The new one is the latest revision of that valve. Now, the boost will kick in, and cut out, kick in, cut out, in a rapid cycle during any acceleration. I double checked that it was installed and tightened (stripped the bolt heads) and reseated the electrical connection. I'm still getting the rough on/off of the turbo. If I slowly increase the acceleration it will act better, but that isn't a sure thing. I love the car, but I'm about to reach the point of pushing it off a cliff.
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Recently, when I start my Golf 2.5 DSG it has been revving a little loud or rough. It usually revs at under 1k at idle, but when starting up it revs at around 1500 until I put it in drive and release the footbrake.
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2003 Honda Odyssey EXL with 236,000 miles on it was jerking, very scary, and the rpms were revving up while driving. We asked around and had it checked and was told it was the transmission. We waited 9 months, not wanting to put the money into it and let it sit, not driving it at all. Then we decided to fix it last week.
We thought we were replacing the transmission, but, after working on it, the place we took it - very reputable - only did the solenoid, saying that fixed the problem. When we took it home an hour away, it was fine - much, much better than when we left it. But, the next day my husband felt a small jerk. We took it back that night and left it with them for a couple more days. They couldn't make the problem recur, so they sent it home with us. We were getting ready to go on a major road trip, so we had the oil changed, and all other stuff for regular maintenance seemed good. Had all fluids checked and new tires on and new battery. Also had recall done on ignition switch. Left on major cross-country trip. Drove about 5 hours and it started again. Just a little - one time. No place was open and we were on deadline, so kept driving cross country.
Eventually the check engine light came on (can't remember if it was before or after started jerking), but that has been on for a couple years and we keep having it checked and they tell us it is not worth fixing - hard to figure out the emissions problem. Could be several things. One was the solenoid, another the gas cap. We had both those replaced. Problem has gotten worse as we have crossed the U.S. on Memorial Day weekend - so no opportunity to have mechanic look at it or get codes due to everything closed. Checked transmission and oil fluid levels, and they are good.
If we accelerate VERY slowly, we are okay. But, the TCS light comes on if we accelerate too quickly sometimes, and it will stay on until we stop and turn the car off. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all, but the check engine light is always on now. In the last 200 miles, we now have occasionally the D (drive) light flash - if the TCS light is on and we are getting jerking, and the rpm's stay up in the high 2's or close to 3 and the van doesn't seem to shift into the higher gear. If it flashes, it won't quit or shift into the higher gear until we stop for maybe 20-30 minutes. Then, the light will stop flashing and the rpms are okay. As long as we accelerate really slowly, really slowly, it won't flash again. One time, on an off-ramp, we jerked when we were decelerating, but that was only once in about 1500 miles - or ever as far as I can remember. The jerk on acceleration has actually been going on for a couple years, but it was always just momentary and only occasionally. Now it is a problem.
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I have a 2007 2.0T and about two weeks ago the car started jerking while accelerating. It only does it when the engine is cold. Sometimes it does it more than others. Shortly after the engine reaches its normal operating temperature, it stops jerking.
I scanned the computer with my VAG-COM but there are not DTCs. I originally suspected the oxygen sensor but the jerking happens even before the oxygen sensor kicks in. So even when is running a fuel rich mixture prior to getting feedback from the O2 sensor it jerks sometimes.
I have just under 55K miles, so I am not sure about the spark plugs but I find it strange that once the car warms up it stops doing it. The cam follower got replaced about 12K miles ago. The air filter is due for change soon but I don't think that is the problem, last time I looked at it (about 3K miles ago, it didn't look that dirty). I need to check this one again...haven't had time lately.
The only thing that was done recently to the car was the replacement of the transmission valve body under the powertrain warranty. The first few days everything worked okay but then a few days after the repair the jerking started. Could this be a symptom of tranny issues?
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The check engine light is on, all the gear indicator lights are on and acceleration is sluggish. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow, but wanted to know where I stood before talking to them. I don't really trust them. Transmission? Gear shifter?
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I've ran into an issue with my high beams on my 07 Camry SE. All lights are working except high beams. When you switch to high beams the lows only stay on. The dash light comes on and shows high beam indicator, but no brights! Fuses look good, and so do both bulbs. Going to go buy a bulb later today just to try. Like I noted they both just suddenly stopped. I'm leaning towards dimmer switch on column now.
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Like on most Chevrolet's or other cars, when you unlock your car with the remote, your headlights come on for awhile. I've tried to 'unlock' this feature with a scanner but the only option I was able to change was the auto lock door function. Is there any way to activate this feature (if possible)? If its not possible with a scanner. I have a '09 Santa Fe Limited, w/ Auto Lights w/o DRL.
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I've been dealing with this for over a year. 97 s-10 (4.3, 4wd, 5spd) always wants to keep revving. When I put it in neutral and coast, the rpms rise. When in gear, it powers itself down the road even when I'm off the gas. The part that really gets me, is that it will keep revving in neutral until the vehicle comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then, it drops to a nice idle within 2-3 seconds. I don't understand what the momentum of the vehicle has to with the revving of the engine when its in neutral.? I replaced the IAC valve (and set the pintle) and tried to clean up everything I could. It seemed to be better for only a little while. Faulty new part? Is the IAC getting "gummed up" quickly because of something else?
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I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
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1998 Honda CRV ... Replaced the AC compressor. AC is cold only when the engine is revving above certain rpm. When at a stop, the air is warm...but if I put it into neutral and rev the engine to, let's say, 2000+ rpm, AC gets colder....or when I am driving, obviously. I know everyone is gonna say something about the condenser fan but would it be the fan given above circumstances?
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I just brought my 2011 Prius to the dealership today after the check engine light came on. Last night, the car was intermittently revving at a high level, but otherwise the car as running fine. The service technician was saying it was the VSV valve that was intermittently sticking. I was told that there was a software update on this valve that might take care of the problem; I asked about the lifespan for the valve, but he had no information about that. I told him to just do the software update, but now I'm wondering if I should also replace the valve.
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I have a 2008 Subaru Forester that I bought used. It has 37,000 miles on it. When I drive at high altitudes, the rpms rev up, the car slows down, sounds terrible. Why is this and what can be done?
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i did have the mech recall done a while back. lately, on several occasions, when i've hit the pedal to the floor "fast", i would get a high rev to 3-4k with the car not moving any faster and then after the revs come back to 1-2k the car would take off like it should. the perfect example of this would be when i wanted to change lanes or pass someone on the freeway.
the car accelerates normally when i am depressing the pedal incrementally and i haven't seen the same type of thing during any other situation. i've had the car for a year and hadn't really noticed this prior to recent driving.
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I have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
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