Passat (B5) :: All Four Brakes Are Sticking Intermittently / Car Shaking Around 45 Mph
Apr 12, 2013
My son was driving my 02 Passat and said the brakes were sticking. It's intermittent, so after a couple test drives, he was right. Clearly the brakes were engaged. The rotors need to be turned and it made the car shake like crazy around 45mph.
Took it to the local tire/brake/muffler shop and they replaced the master cylinder but that didn't fix it. I am getting no codes or warning lights for the braking system and it only happens about 1 in 5 drives.
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I have a 2001 f-150 the brakes are sticking and I get a bad shake which seems to come from the front and rear of the vehicle. It doesn't do it all the time but when it does it slowly gets worse. I have replaced 3 of the 4 calipers and will be replacing the forth, but not much is changing.
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Had a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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So... I have a 99 Subaru Outback 5 speed that I love the hell out of. Anyway, recently my clutch pedal has started momentarily sticking mid return. The clutch appears to be fully engaged, but the pedal sticks, or hangs for a moment before popping the rest of the way up. Once, and only once so far, it stuck completely just for a moment before returning after being depressed again. I'm not sure how concerned I should be, and given that the car is new to me I'm still trying to familiarize myself with it.
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1990 Ford Taurus. 82k. Auto TX. I had rear brake drums, shoes and cylinders replaced on the rear. Front brakes check out OK with miles to go. At town speeds 25 mph, I noticed car was braking itself (grip-release -grip-release, etc). Then it went away and has not happened again in about 30 miles of driving in town only. The cylinders are new, so being stuck is probably out. I put on emergency brake and released repeatedly while sitting still just to seeif that thing was rusted up and not moving. Don't know enough about over over-adjusting adjusters? Anyway. I would like to drive this thing on a 100 mile trip. Since it now seems OK, am I good to go? If yes, what to watch for or check on trip? If it makes any difference, the rear brakes were replaced because one cylinder had ruptured and soaked the drum and the shoe. It was all bed properly at the end.
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I have a 2007 Sonata V6 I bought used two years ago. When I bought it mechanic serviced the rear brakes as the caliper was sticking. Now the rear brakes make a grinding noise when I brake and when I drive the rear brakes make a sound like slight metal on metal contact. I know Sonatas are known for brake problems. Should I replace the rear pads, rotors, calipers (including pins) and if so what brands are decent to buy? I have used rock auto in the past.
My car has about 198,000km on it (123,000 miles).
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My parents have a 08 trailblazer and the brakes stick. basically sometimes you stop and wait at a light or a stop sign, let off the brake and you can feel them stick for about a second and then release. they took it to the dealer, they said they felt it also but dont know what it is. we know its related to the brakes cause they take it there and they say they cleaned up the brakes and then it wont do it for a week or two then it will start doing it again. its still under warr. What it might be?
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Having issues with the brakes locking to the rotors after washing the vehicle? I washed it on Saturday afternoon, pulled it back into the garage and it sat there until Monday morning.
I back the vehicle into the garage, always. I started it up, put it in D and usually it will want to lurch forward if I don't hold the brakes firmly. Not today. I could not get the thing to budge. I sat there for a few seconds to make sure the parking brake was not on. It was not, as I never use that. My garage floor is the slippery concrete, plus with the tire shine that I applied, the wheels were just spinning.
After I managed to get the vehicle halfway out, I put it in reverse...that worked no problem. I put it back in drive and had no issues after that. Do I need to have the vehicle looked at? It only has 5,400 miles, and it was just in last week for the 5K mile service.
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02 Civic, 1.7L, 114K Found the front brakes sticking. I popped the bleeder open and got a little squirt out of the left side and a less of a squirt out of the right. I'm in the process of changing the pads which are on order from Rockauto. I took the existing pads off and lubed the pad guides/holding slots but I felt them starting to drag again after a short test drive. Also they did not seem to respond properly with normal braking. How would I test the caliper(s)? It's got to be a bad caliper or master cylinder causing this and I just don't want to throw parts at it.
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I have already changed the pads, rotors, and calipers on both front brakes. Now it was sticking so bad the other day it was smoking from being so hot. Its not making me come to a full stop but the pads are sitting on the rotor even when I took the tire off. Could it be something simple? Or is the last thing to change the master cylinder?
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I was fueling up my 06 F-250 yesterday and smelled hot brakes. I checked and found the right rear was really hot. After it cooled down I was able to drive on home and it was not too hot when I got here. I was towing a trailer with my tractor on it so I had a pretty good load. It was over 6 miles to my house with stop and go traffic and no hang up. What should I do to keep this from happening again? I don't drive this truck much but when I need it, I need it to be dependable. It has 99k on the clock and is a gas job.
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Read alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
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1998 FORD E350 CLUB WAGON 15 PASSENGER VAN. Front brakes are sticking bad. Stop at intersection with snow or slick condition and you can barely get the van to start moving. After you do you can fell the drag and the vehicle working hard to keep moving. Take tires off front, can not see anything obvious that is wrong. Can see where the bake pads are leave makes on the rotor.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS and it feels like I'm continuously riding the brakes at random times and engine sounds like its working harder than usual to get the car to move. I thought I had this problem solved by replacing the master cylinder but I seems to be happening again. The reason I replaced the master cylinder was because I came out one morning about 2 months ago and started down my driveway to get the mail (I live on a steep hill) and I thought I had a broken line or something because I had almost no pedal and it was sinking to the floor. What confused me the brakes seemed good the day before when I drove about 40 miles round trip to town and then parked it overnight. (except for the brakes sticking feeling) I had the car put on a rack and found nothing more than a slow leak at the proportioning valve but I noticed on the way to the shop the car was no longer hard to move and was smoother rolling than it had been in a long long time.
The brake fluid was a little low but when I filled it to the max level the pedal still felt soft and would sink unit I had the master cylinder replaced, With the sinking pedal and all I was thinking its probably a bad/sticking master cylinder that maybe could have been applying slight pressure to all the brakes at once and now it was released. I purchased a reman master cylinder from advance and had it put on and it seemed to work great and my car was still rolling freely. The proportional valve is still leaking (small drip when pressed) but I didn't think it could cause all these problems. I usually have to pump the brake before I leave of a morning or my pedal will be soft and sink but not all the time.
Recently I noticed my car is starting to feel like it is sticking again and my last mpg estimate was 17mpg, I might be a little hard on the throttle at times but not all the time. The rims feel equally warm after driving but not real hot. I have replaced a lot of parts over the last 2 years so most of the braking parts are near new. All the brake lines have been replaced along with the hydraulic hoses. Front calipers are new Rear caliper I rebuilt myself Master cylinder was replaced over a month ago. Could it be the abs unit or the brake booster? A week ago the car rolled freely but the pedal was starting to feel hard like the symptoms of a bad brake booster.
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At about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
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From everything I have read I can't seem to figure out exactly what the fix is for what feels like brakes sticking after coming to a full stop, then accelerating? I will describe as a clunking and kicking feel, as if power to the rear end is being delayed then kicking in.
From all the posts and replies it seems like a differential issue. Exactly what the issue is and the correct fix? 2012 purchased used with less than 5K miles in 2013, problem has slowly been getting worse over time.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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On my 02 Superduty 4x4 7.3, I just replaced all the rotors,calipers,& pads because two were seizing up, so I decided to do all 4. It's still happening?! What could be causing this? They were all bled of the air & flushed with new fluid. I spent a lot of money here so I don't want to wreck any new parts, so it is parked now until I can get it fixed.
As I was coming home yesterday, as it was shifting up thru the gears it was dragging & held up on 2nd before it went into high & was hard keep moving & the RPM's were higher than normal, then all of a sudden pop and everything let go,it quit dragging, shifted into OD. Before this point I noticed the brake pedal seemed to be higher and hard?
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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