Ford - Taurus :: 1990 - New Rear Brakes Sticking
Aug 13, 2012
1990 Ford Taurus. 82k. Auto TX. I had rear brake drums, shoes and cylinders replaced on the rear. Front brakes check out OK with miles to go. At town speeds 25 mph, I noticed car was braking itself (grip-release -grip-release, etc). Then it went away and has not happened again in about 30 miles of driving in town only. The cylinders are new, so being stuck is probably out. I put on emergency brake and released repeatedly while sitting still just to seeif that thing was rusted up and not moving. Don't know enough about over over-adjusting adjusters? Anyway. I would like to drive this thing on a 100 mile trip. Since it now seems OK, am I good to go? If yes, what to watch for or check on trip? If it makes any difference, the rear brakes were replaced because one cylinder had ruptured and soaked the drum and the shoe. It was all bed properly at the end.
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I was fueling up my 06 F-250 yesterday and smelled hot brakes. I checked and found the right rear was really hot. After it cooled down I was able to drive on home and it was not too hot when I got here. I was towing a trailer with my tractor on it so I had a pretty good load. It was over 6 miles to my house with stop and go traffic and no hang up. What should I do to keep this from happening again? I don't drive this truck much but when I need it, I need it to be dependable. It has 99k on the clock and is a gas job.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
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Took the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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At about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
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I have a 2001 f-150 the brakes are sticking and I get a bad shake which seems to come from the front and rear of the vehicle. It doesn't do it all the time but when it does it slowly gets worse. I have replaced 3 of the 4 calipers and will be replacing the forth, but not much is changing.
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Read alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
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1998 FORD E350 CLUB WAGON 15 PASSENGER VAN. Front brakes are sticking bad. Stop at intersection with snow or slick condition and you can barely get the van to start moving. After you do you can fell the drag and the vehicle working hard to keep moving. Take tires off front, can not see anything obvious that is wrong. Can see where the bake pads are leave makes on the rotor.
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From everything I have read I can't seem to figure out exactly what the fix is for what feels like brakes sticking after coming to a full stop, then accelerating? I will describe as a clunking and kicking feel, as if power to the rear end is being delayed then kicking in.
From all the posts and replies it seems like a differential issue. Exactly what the issue is and the correct fix? 2012 purchased used with less than 5K miles in 2013, problem has slowly been getting worse over time.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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On my 02 Superduty 4x4 7.3, I just replaced all the rotors,calipers,& pads because two were seizing up, so I decided to do all 4. It's still happening?! What could be causing this? They were all bled of the air & flushed with new fluid. I spent a lot of money here so I don't want to wreck any new parts, so it is parked now until I can get it fixed.
As I was coming home yesterday, as it was shifting up thru the gears it was dragging & held up on 2nd before it went into high & was hard keep moving & the RPM's were higher than normal, then all of a sudden pop and everything let go,it quit dragging, shifted into OD. Before this point I noticed the brake pedal seemed to be higher and hard?
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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My son was driving my 02 Passat and said the brakes were sticking. It's intermittent, so after a couple test drives, he was right. Clearly the brakes were engaged. The rotors need to be turned and it made the car shake like crazy around 45mph.
Took it to the local tire/brake/muffler shop and they replaced the master cylinder but that didn't fix it. I am getting no codes or warning lights for the braking system and it only happens about 1 in 5 drives.
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I just bought my car 2 months ago from a dealer, the dealer said they fixed a router and bled the breaks. A week after I got it, I pushed the brakes and they had no resistance on them. I did it again and they were fine, so I just thought I was nuts. Later that week it happened several more times. I had my boyfriend bring it back to the dealer and they drove it and convinced him that Ford just has speed sensing brakes and that it was normal.
It went away for a month so I really didn't say too much more about it. Now every time I hit the breaks there is no resistance until I get it all the way to the floor. It will still stop, but only if it's pushed firmly to the floor, and hitting the brakes all the way to the floor is not a very smart thing to do in the winter, so I have slid many of times because of this. Am I just supposed to live with the supposed "speed sensors" or is there something really wrong?
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I have a 2007 Sonata V6 I bought used two years ago. When I bought it mechanic serviced the rear brakes as the caliper was sticking. Now the rear brakes make a grinding noise when I brake and when I drive the rear brakes make a sound like slight metal on metal contact. I know Sonatas are known for brake problems. Should I replace the rear pads, rotors, calipers (including pins) and if so what brands are decent to buy? I have used rock auto in the past.
My car has about 198,000km on it (123,000 miles).
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My parents have a 08 trailblazer and the brakes stick. basically sometimes you stop and wait at a light or a stop sign, let off the brake and you can feel them stick for about a second and then release. they took it to the dealer, they said they felt it also but dont know what it is. we know its related to the brakes cause they take it there and they say they cleaned up the brakes and then it wont do it for a week or two then it will start doing it again. its still under warr. What it might be?
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Having issues with the brakes locking to the rotors after washing the vehicle? I washed it on Saturday afternoon, pulled it back into the garage and it sat there until Monday morning.
I back the vehicle into the garage, always. I started it up, put it in D and usually it will want to lurch forward if I don't hold the brakes firmly. Not today. I could not get the thing to budge. I sat there for a few seconds to make sure the parking brake was not on. It was not, as I never use that. My garage floor is the slippery concrete, plus with the tire shine that I applied, the wheels were just spinning.
After I managed to get the vehicle halfway out, I put it in reverse...that worked no problem. I put it back in drive and had no issues after that. Do I need to have the vehicle looked at? It only has 5,400 miles, and it was just in last week for the 5K mile service.
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02 Civic, 1.7L, 114K Found the front brakes sticking. I popped the bleeder open and got a little squirt out of the left side and a less of a squirt out of the right. I'm in the process of changing the pads which are on order from Rockauto. I took the existing pads off and lubed the pad guides/holding slots but I felt them starting to drag again after a short test drive. Also they did not seem to respond properly with normal braking. How would I test the caliper(s)? It's got to be a bad caliper or master cylinder causing this and I just don't want to throw parts at it.
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2011 Ford Taurus with 4000 miles. Car, at times, will pull to one side when brakes applied. Dealer could find nothing wrong first time(no cost). Second time they found that the "rear pads stuck in brackets on both sides. removed calipers brackets and pads and did full clean and reassembled". Third time road test found "no pull". "checked on ramp, all brakes seem fine, all free and moving properly. No problem found.". Road test with technician found slight vibration in steering wheel when braking but no pull. Technician says an uneven or slanting street could cause car to pull. Never heard of this before (my other car is fine on the same roads & streets). Is this a possibility as a cause of my problem?
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