Passat (B5) :: Car Takes Many Attempts Before It Starts
Mar 9, 2008
I have a friend who owns a 1.8T Passat, and she is having difficulty starting her car. From what i know, her car takes a VERY LONG time, and many attempts before it turns over and finally starts. Currently it take many more tries to get it started. Her battery seems fine, as the car turns over strong, and all electrics work. Also, after her car starts, she has been noticing that it is underpowered, and vibrates hard. It has been over a year since her spark plugs were changed. Correct me if im wrong, but having a turbo powered engine, do the spark plugs wear out faster then naturally aspirated engines. Am i right to assume that the spark plug is the cause for her car not starting, and vibrating hard after it starts.
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My wife's 2007 4-cylinder Camry has 174,000 miles and has been a great car. Recently however the car has become harder to start. The engine cranks fine but it either starts right up or it will just crank. I've learned that if it doesn't start normally, I stop cranking and try to start again. Sometimes it takes up to 4 attempts then it starts normally. It seems like it either gets the fuel and starts correctly or it's not getting fuel and cannot start.
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I have a 1997 Celica ST 1.8 liter. Over the past month, it has developed an issue with starting up. It takes several attempts to start up- sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Once its started up, it runs fine. It usually has no problems starting back up as long as I don't wait any longer than 8-12 hours. Once I get passed that mark, it gives me trouble all over again. Some days it won't start at all, regardless of how many times I try or how long I try for. Now going on day 3 of it not starting at all, turns over and sounds like it's trying, but just won't do it.
The second I stop or turn the key off, it makes a noise like it was going to try to start; however, never actually does. It's a very weird thing. I've talked to a ton of people and a few thought it had to be the crankshaft position sensor. But, I just don't think that's spot on. I've done quite a bit of research and personally think it's the cold start injector or something along those lines.
Another thing I just remembered.. I read that cold start injectors are usually on older cars only, not sure if that's true or not because I read a problem on a 2003 that was a cold start injector, which could have just been a site with bad info. But having a separate injector for "cold start" threw me off in the first place. And what I see on my car that I'm thinking is it, is solely based off a few diagrams and pictures I have seen.
Just tried to hand choke it, way closer to starting than it has been the last 3 days. Tried to give it a little gas, but still didn't start. Thought I had it a few times there. Also, noticed some oil sitting on below the engine, but on part of my car not the ground. To the left if I was standing looking under the hood. Between the bumper and the engine, closer to the engine.
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So it has been quite cold around here the past couple of weeks. I was driving my Tig the other day to grab some food. My buddy wanted to see how far my sunroof opens. It opened no problem. But then when I tried to close the sunroof, it got just about closed and then reversed to open all the way. It took me about 6 times of opening all the way and then trying to close until it finally closed. My thought is maybe a piece of ice got stuck and made the system think something was on the track?
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My LS460 L (2008) is having startup problems. I press the startup button but doesn't always start and sometimes it takes three attempts to get started. I took it to the dealer in Saudi (ALJ) and they changed the battery and did a full check but couldn't figure the problem. The problem is intermittent.
Please see this video [URL] .....
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I have a 2006 V6 Sonata that takes its time to get started. It will crank great, but after a few seconds of trying and no starting, I turn the key to the off position and try it again. Most of the time the car will start on the second attempt, but sometimes it requires a third attempt. Here are the facts as I have observed them:
-I cannot hear the fuel pump engage until a split second before the car actually starts.
-There are no RPMs until the fuel pump engages and the car starts.
-The engine runs really rough for a second while the car initially starts and runs.
-When the car is running, it's really smooth. Like, brand new car smooth.
-This issue happens no matter the time of the day or the temperature of the engine.
-The fuse for the fuel pump is fine.
-The fuel pump relay is fine. I know this because I swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and nothing changed with the starting issue and the horn still worked great.
-A friend used a jumper in the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump would engage and it did.
-Have not used a fuel pressure gauge as we did not have one on hand.
Is there anything else to check besides using the fuel pressure gauge? Have you run into this same issue? If so, what was the cure? I'm averaging about 20 MPG with mostly city driving. Is that normal for the 2006 V6?
Recent work included new spark plugs, a new gasket somewhere because it was weeping oil there (I think it was the part of the engine that you have to remove in order to get to a couple of the plugs), and the idler pulley thingy and it's belt.
The starting issue started before I got this work done. I took it to a repair shop because of the starting issue and they found these other problems. The funny thing is, they claim that the car started perfectly fine for them every time, which is pretty hard to believe. When I picked the car up from the shop, I tried starting it, it didn't start, but the mechanic was right there to see my issue first hand.
My thinking is that the fuel pump is fine because when it does finally start, the engine runs smooth as silk. I love how when I'm going 80 MPH, just a slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal and I'm up to a hundred in no time flat. I love this Hyundai V6. Now if I can just get it starting normally.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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My husband's 2000 Ford Expedition has 94K miles and has been very well maintained. For the past few months, it's been having intermittent ignition problems. It'll start up fine for a few days, and then suddenly will need several-to-many attempts in order to start. Engine cranks every time, but won't catch. A few times it has taken over 10 min to get it started, and on occasion we've had to take our other vehicle instead. My son and I spent 15 creepy minutes in a dark parking lot the other night trying to get the truck to start.
It's in the Ford repair shop for the third time in a month now (last time was for 4 days), and the shop has been unable to replicate the problem enough to diagnose it. (The two times when it wouldn't start for them was when they DIDN'T have it hooked up to fuel-system test equipment.) I'm getting the sense they just want us to go away quietly and buy a new vehicle, but this one is the type we like...paid for! The problem occurs at various times of day...in various types of weather...when truck is hot, cold, or in between...gas tank at different levels...we can't find a common denominator, and all other diagnostics come back fine. The only slightly creepy suggestion the shop had was that maybe someone poured sugar in the gas tank..
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Very occasionally my 4.6 doesn't seem to be getting fuel when I crank it. On those occasions the starter cranks the engine fine, but it takes two or three attempts to actually start. 64K on the truck, and the fuel filter was changed about 10K ago, throttle body cleaned at the same time. Does this sound like a FDCM issue?
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I have owned this 01 LS with a V8 for about a year now and have had it to the dealer at least 6 times. After bringing the car in twice, the dealer finally found that there was a problem with the fuel injector. 3 months later the problem came back - basically the car takes 3-6 seconds of cranking before it starts (from a cold start of more than 2 hours). The last 3 times I have had it in the dealer has reprogrammed the computer and thought it was fixed - Wrong! After this last time, the dealer said they could not find a problem and felt they were doing all they could - in fact, they told me to switch to a lower octane gas and see if that works.
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I love my Prius c!! I have around 2200 miles on it and I work a combination second and third shift. The car sets all day. The first time that it happened I didn't think anything about it, but it has since happened two other times now. The bad part about it is I get off work at 2 am and the Toyota dealer is not open. The check engine light does not come on and I have had it at the dealer for the past week and they could not duplicate the problem.
It's not water in the gas. I bought it brand new so it is covered under warranty. I feel for the dealership because the check engine light doesn't come on so they have nothing to go by. This problem occurs when it gets down in the low 30's to mid 20's. I use Shell gasoline 87 octane.
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For over a year, I've been experience starting problems with my 2008 Lexus es350.
About every 3 starts or so, it takes my car 3 seconds are so of turning over before the car actually starts. So, 2 out of 3 starts are perfect.
I recently replace my stock batter for the first time (43,000) miles after my car battery died after being parked for only two hours... i thought this might solve the problem, but it hasn't.
Why it is taking my car so long to turn over every couple of starts?
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My truck has a short in it. I've noticed this delay for the past few months. Takes a few seconds when I'm cranking it, then it finally starts. Could it be the alternator that I need replaced? It's not the battery, cause I'm getting plenty of juice.
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Our check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
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I bought my 2004 RX 330 last year with 110k miles. It starts up every time with no problem, except that It takes a few more seconds to turn over the engine till it starts. I have to keep the key turned longer that my other cars where all I need to do is just turn to start for a second only. I just replaced the battery and that did not change anything.
Is this normal for my RX 330, could I need new spark plugs? It's never been a problem in winter or summer.
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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I have a 2001.5 v6 passat and it runs good most of the time, but there are moments in which i want to take off quickly and the car doesn't GO.... the engine revs slowly and it begins to move slowly as well... then if i let go of the gas completely for about a second and then step on the accelerator again.... then it will continue to run normal again...
I also have a check engine light on... and the car also takes a while to start after i put gas in it... it needs to be cranked about 4 times until it finally starts.... could this be part of the same problem??
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Problems started a few months back. Turned the a/c on and it blew hot air. I didn't think much of it because it started to turn cold after a few minutes. That didn't occur again for a few weeks so I figured it was a fluke.
Over the last few days it now takes 6 -7 minutes for the air to finally cool down. It is way too hot these days to not have instant relief in my car. Luckily it is time for service so I will let the shop worry about what is wrong with it.
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My AC went out the other day. My wife said it took about 10 to 20 mins to finally start working and blowing cold and the next day it would never ever kick in anymore. Vents are blowing but just a outside temp air, also the a/c light comes on and i hear slightly different idle when ac engaged, however i dont really hear anything happening with the compressor.
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No codes, no obvious troubles other than, when I use the power window control on my 99 passat to control the driver side rear window, I have to hold the button down sometimes for 1 second, sometimes for 15 seconds before it actually moves. If I try to operate the window from the actual button on that door( the rear door), it works fine with no hesitation or sticking. No, the safety lock is not on. I am guessing it is something electronic but as there are no burnt fuses or damaged wires, I am left confused.
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I drive an '04 Passat and I've recently noticed that my AC is not functioning properly. It takes forever to get somewhat cold and the air flow seems diminished. I used to get freezing cold within minutes after setting it to an air flow of "1" and putting it at the coldest setting. Now, I can drive home and sweat for the whole 30 minute trip with it set to an air flow setting of "4" at the coldest setting. It's not as bad in the morning because it's much cooler, but it's killing me in the afternoon/evening.
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