Passat (B6) :: 2005 - CEL Came On When Doing Heavy Acceleration / Starts To Pull Or Hesitate
Jan 3, 2011
2005 2.OT ... Our car showed an engine light last night and when doing heavy acceleration, starts to pull or hesitate. Do not occurs when accelerating slowly, all day at dealer and they said that might be cam wear or some pressure pump. They are taking the engine covers to find out what is the issue. Cam repair and oil change. It drives smoother and no longer hard down shifting....
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My F150 has 100,000 miles on it and hesitates and bucks on acceleration. Auto zone pulled a code which I can't remember what it was but did say it was the throttle body actuator was stuck open. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner put it back on. No change.
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Ok long story short I was given a conversion van that is built on a e150 van and has a 5.8 liter with an e40d tranny.. This van sat for at least 3 years till recently..
I have cleaned all electric connections on the tranny and the one on the rear differential . New filter and fluid but did not drain the converter after driving it for about an hour we finally got it to start shifting gears automatically the problem is it wants to shift only under heavy acceleration and then only to second at about 35 mph and drive at about 60 mph and over drive around 80 mph and all this only under heavy acceleration you let of the gas a little and it starts down shifting..
What I may look for next that may be pretty easy to try. My thoughts at this point are maybe the torque converter is going south but I am hoping for a more simple solution..
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B5 Passat wagon coil over installation Vibration happens during acceleration.
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If you have an intake and are under heavier acceleration, do you get any vibrations in the car while getting that growl sound?
I have the intake pipe zip tied so that it is away from the brake lines but I'm trying to figure out if the vibes are coming from just the sound frequency or something or if it's something else.
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 with 86,000 miles. When I am driving through town at a low acceleration or a constant speed at between 40 - 50 mph the truck starts to sputter and kick a bit. When I give it some gas the problem goes away. This gets worse when I pull my bass boat, and starts at around 30 mph. When I hook it up to a reader I get a P0316 code. Only code I get.
Also when I am driving through my neighborhood between 20 - 30 mph I get a noise that sounds like there is a plastic bag stuck under the truck. I have checked under the truck to see if the firewall is loose anywhere, but could not find anything. Other than those two issues the truck runs great. What these problems could be?
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My wife's '97 Bonneville has recently begun acting up. It especially seems to not like the cold weather. It starts hard then the motor will fluctuate and hesitate and die. It usually stays running the second time. Then when I put it into gear pushing the throttle doesn't do anything. It seems to stumble and falter. Sometimes, if I pump the gas it works other times if I move the pedal up and down slowly I can find the "sweet spot" and it will accelerate. I'm not sure if it's related or not, but sometimes going down the highway on long trips it will seem like the transmission is slipping and the car lurches or slows down. It's really weird. Then if you shut it off, it won't turn back on for 15 minutes or so.
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Recently the fuse for the ECU was pulled. From what I have read it reset the computer. Since this happened the car will buck or hesitate during acceleration. What is a good starting point to resolving this issue.
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My 2012 ISF has this weird hesitation going on. On manual mode with Sport, I would try to accelerate pretty hard and around 5k RPM, it would bog down and hesitate. Almost feeling like it's choking.
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I have had my 2010 Prius 2010 for a year now. I have been taking my Prius to a full service car wash with the conveyor belt. They have always seemed ver Prius savvy. But the last couple of times, after getting in the car and driving away, the car seemed to hesitate upon initial acceleration. Then the problem goes away.
The last time I took it to this car wash, I sat in the car, because I only needed the express exterior wash. About a third of the way through, the instrument panel said "Low Traction Battery... put into Park" I did not obey the warning because I was afraid of putting it in Park while the conveyor belt system was pushing my Prius along. So I ignored it. By the end of the car wash, the engine had shut down. I had to start it up and drive out, and I got that same momentary, initial hesitation as I accelerated, like before. The hesitation went away after that.
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1999 buick century custom .. 3100 motor .. 200k+ miles ..
It all Started 2months ago.. once every few weeks my car would hesitate during acceleration (leaving a light for example) but just once.Then started it up one day and it was idling rough..also stalled out twice.
Dropped it off at a shop after hours so he could check it out in the A.M.he calls n says its not acting up at all.
Get the car back and drive it 2 more weeks..then it happens again. Rough idle and hesitating...take it directly to the shop but its acting normal again by the time I get there (starting to feel like im crazy)
So I take things into my own hands... I change air filter, clean MAF and throttle body. Change the plugs and wires.
start it up and it seemed to run better than it ever has.. for about 5mins.I took it for a test drive and it started sputtering and bucking and eventually died to the point of undrivable.
Got towed home.NOW it starts dang near everytime but runs EXTREMELY rough for a few seconds before eventually dying. It will run a bit longer if I unplug the MAF (45seconds maybe) but runs like fecal matter the whole time
I have swapped out the MAF, EGR valve and IAC valve with parts from a 97 century (which runs fine)And nothing seemed to change the condition.
Changed fuel filterchecked fuel pressure with key on (41psi)Also replaced the timing chain and gears (thinking it slipped) but it didnt make a difference.
I pulled codes but all it had was a P0102 (MAF low input)But I think that might be from it being unplugged so many times?
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I just purchased a 2001 Dodge Durango 4wd with 140,xxx miles on it. My issue is that whenever I accelerate it hesistates and if I am going at a high speed like on the interstate or expressway it sometimes slows down (drastically) if I'm going uphill. What can be causing this?
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I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
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Two weeks into an 09 CPO Tiguan and I have a question about a clunk sound. I hear it (and kind of feel it under my feet) if I pull off the gas after a burst of acceleration. Kind of a muted clunk -- not too bad -- from underneath the floorboard, right as the car is getting back to its equilibrium position. Doesn't affect the driving, so my gut says not transmission (auto).
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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Under heavy acceleration my car surges. I have already put a new stock diverter valve on and no change....I am thinking n75 is next on my shotgun list?
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So this vibration/ cluncking seems to be from between the front seats and mostly during off the line acceration, and from all I can find it's the flex disc, but my flex disc shows no signs of damage. Can these discs go bad without looking bad or is this possibly the hanger bearing on the driveshaft?
I am also looking for any other possibilities for the cause of this vibation/ clunking as there sounds like something is hitting the bottom of the car but there are no impact marks to show me where the issue is
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Just bought my R a few months ago and love it so far. I've recently encountered a slight buzz or vibration. I'll get down to the nitty gritty and not bore you with long drawn out information. Basically under heavy acceleration the driver side vibrates/ buzzes down by the floorboard. Now this only happen under heavy acceleration. I even did a test in 1st gear. Heavy accellerate under 2k RPM's, 3k RPM's, 4k RPM's and the vibration happened under these heavy acceleration periods. It's almost like there was also a loss of power during this vibration/ buzz, which leads me to believe it might be the clutch.
I took off the prop shaft and drove in FWD for a few weeks. The vibration was still prominent. Took of both front driveshafts and inspected those and they seem perfect but THE VIBRATION IS STILL HERE. Could this be the clutch?
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I just went APR Stage 1+ (APR hpfp plus VWR intake) and am loving the noticeable power gain from Stage 1. But under hard acceleration I'm getting a strange noise (sounds like wheelspin or tire screech and sounds like it's coming from the front tires) when I disengage the clutch to shift at higher (5K+) rpms. It is not metallic sounding (it sounds like burning rubber) and lasts for a split second then goes away.
For those of you who've had tuned GTIs, it essentially sounds like what my Stage 1 GTI sounded like when too much torque was going to the front wheels and I spun my wheels before I got traction.
It doesn't happen as I re-engage the clutch and it doesn't happen any other time (quick but not WOT acceleration or normal driving). It also didn't happen under hard acceleration before I went from Stage 1 to Stage 1+. Furthermore, I'm not having any issues with difficulty shifting or engaging gears at any time. My R is 1 month old and has ~1K miles.
I've searched the clutch/transmission troubles thread, and other threads, but haven't come across other sounds/symptoms that seem similar.
At first I was thinking it was just a split second of wheelspin from too much torque as the AWD kicked in, but that doesn't seem to make sense (or does it?) since it only happens when I'm disengaging the clutch. Any thoughts before I start thinking the worst?
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I have noticed since day 1 of owning my v8, that there i a horrible sound that comes from the exhaust upon medium to heavy acceleration - a loud fluttering is the best way i can describe it. I took it to the dealer and one tech said something was definitely wrong, the other went and got a new reg off the showroom floor and demonstrated that it is common and normal. Although another new reg did the same thing, i am not convinced that this obnoxious sound is normal ...
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Here's the story on my truck. Spits and sputters between 40-60 during heavy acceleration and on rare occasions will jerk/pop while at a steady speed. No engine or wrench lights. I thought it might be the fuel filter and changed that, it didn't work. I also ran two bottles (on 2 separate occasions) of Duralube extreme fuel system cleaner, that didn't work either. So, I took it to the Ford dealer for a diagnostic. They had a hard time getting it to act up but said it finally misfired on #8 and recommended replacing the ignition coil and plug. I did that, still have the same symptoms. So, I thought it might be the fuel injector and changed that. Still same symptoms and ZERO dummy lights.
After several YouTube videos, I thought it might be the TPS and got one. Before I changed that however, I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor, still same symptoms. I finally changed the TPS, but the engine wouldn't start or run at all, no warning lights yet. When I put the old TPS on, it would run. I unplugged the TPS and it still ran but very rough. Now the engine light IS on! Thinking I purchased a bad part, I took it back to O'Reilly's and they warrantied it out and gave me a new one. I had 19 PO codes. I changed the TPS again, and, it won't start or run at all. Put the old one on and it runs. They cleared the codes and told me they think it could be the ECM/PCM.
Why will a new TPS not work? I still have the same issue of hesitation @ 40-60 during hard acceleration. No hesitation during a moderate acceleration.
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