My 2.0T Passat sedan will not start for 3 weeks now. It is at a dealer and they seem to be unsure what to do for it. I see there is alot of this issue with the 3.6 wagon, but is it a growing problem for the sedan as well? My service advisor indicated to me that there are several others at their shop with the same problem.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat 2.0t Sedan. My wife broke the front engine mount this morning and now it will crank, but will not start. Put my code reader on it and it is throwing camshaft position sensor, misfire cyl. 4, fuel rail pressure low, and Mass Air Flow sensor codes. It looks like the insert of the mount is wedged against the belt. Would the engine mount being broken cause any of these codes for some reason? and would the mount against the belt cause it to not start?
View 6 Replies1090 Lumina Sedan 3.1 ... First time it had starting issues Recently. About 2 months ago my lumina's engine would die when i pushed down on the gas pedal. After 2 days of trying to fix the issue it wouldn't start at all, i replaced:
TPS
MAP/MAT Sensor
Fuel Filter
None of these worked so i sent it to a shop, they replaced:
ECM
Multi Port Injection (All 6 Injectors)
TPS (even though i had just installed a new one)
Serpentine Belt (it broke when they were test driving it after the Repairs were done)
The car would not start even after they replaced the first 3 parts on the list, so the tech looked further at the engine and found frayed and open wires, on the bottom near the front side passenger door, he repaired these wires and the car started and ran.
The only issues i had after their repair was a rough idle while braking and/or when i was at a full stop, the rough idle went away after a few days of driving.
((Current No Start Issues))A week ago i had what i am guessing is a few electrical issues: Speedometer Twitching and then dropping to nothing while driving, temp and oil light popping on and then off, when the engine was at a good temp and the oil was fine when i had checked the day before.
I went out a few days ago to run some errands and on my way home i turned a corner and when i put my foot down on the gas pedal the car just went "Put-put Put-put" every time i pushed the pedal more than a 1/4 of the way down. i reach a stop sign and being i was in the middle of nowhere and no one was coming down the road for miles i braked slightly and went past the stop sign halfway through my turn the engine died and i coasted to the side of the road, i got out and checked the engine, i had coolant not a whole lot but enough, then i checked the oil and it as far as i could tell it was at the add line even though it had been fine a few days before,(there has been no indication of an oil leak).
I rechecked the coolant and it looked like there was more in there than there was a few minutes before but i couldn't be sure, i was able to get the car restarted and headed towards home (about 2 miles away).at this point i was able to get the car going at around 25-45mph on the next sharp corner i turned the engine died again so i restarted and kept going, it died once more right before i reached the driveway but i was able to coast the rest of the way, once i parked the car i turned the engine off and tried to restart it a minute later and it started again so i left it be and called someone to bring me some oil, when they got to me with the oil i put some in and and it would not start at all.
- I checked one of the spark plug wires and it is not getting any spark.
- The ground terminal on the battery seems to be stripped
- The battery / altenator / starter---- All read to be between 12.15 and 12.36 volts
- The head lights, instrument panel and such still turn on properly.
I'm at a loss here, it was just in the shop 20 days ago and now it isn't working again. I would prefer to not have to put it back in the shop, if it might be something i could repair from home.
I've got a 1988 Honda Civic Sedan. 151, 000 miles. Runs great,except when I have to stop for gas or I pop the clutch maladroitly to get going and kill the engine. Then it won't start up. It used to do it once or so every five times I stop to gas up. I don't drive it much and have to re-charge the battery every month or so--even the new battery. It started this herky-jerky thing last summer but the tow guy convinced me it was a bad gas problem. A gas additive seemed to clear it up, but not the starting problem.
Just last night I recharged the battery,let the engine run 15 minutes or so the next morning, then shut it down and tried to restart it; turned over but wouldn't start. In general, when it cools down about an hour or so later, it starts fine. So engine heat seems to cause it.I've giving up trying to gas up at the cheap stations. Instead I go to the local station two blocks away so I can push it aside and come back later to get it if it stalls. Could this be something simple I could fix?
I have an Passat B6 2006 2.0 TDI, and my girlfriend has an Golf V plus 2007 so there is a lot to write for...
But my first question is: How to change the struts on a 2006 B6 sedan...
Is there a known issue with water getting into the passenger side(floor) of the Passat sedans? Is the leak due to the sunroof?
View 10 RepliesCar is a 2002 b5.5 1.8t sedan.
Bought the DDM Tuning HIDs, 3500k 35w for the fogs, installed with no problems. Also ordered the 5000k 35w for the low beams. Installed them, they flickered on for a second, then nothing. Let the ballasts charge for a while but still nothing. Called DDM, they said my car needs a error code eliminator kit thing later they were at my doorstep. Plugged one side in, flicked on then nothing. Thought both sides might need the code eliminators plugged in...wrong. both flickered on, and then nothing. Tried again, no flicker, both low beam fuses burned. Plugged the regular bulbs in, changed the fuses, lights working again.
I don't know much about electrical, but DDM said i def don't need a relay kit. Do I need a relay kit? Or would putting higher amperage fuses in the place of the original ones work? if so what amperage?
I have a 2010 passat sedan 2.0T. I had DDM 35w 6k HID's installed and ever since this was installed I have had problems galor with my headlights. first the drivers side went out then the passenger side went out. them ballest were bad and then bulbs you get the picture. However now my drivers side headlight flickers when I accelerate and I can not figure out how to fix this.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2.0T that sometimes drags a bit when starting the car. It seems to be getting worse with time. A few weeks ago it would only drag every once in a while before starting right up. Now it seems to drag when turning over more often, once every other start. The severity of the dragging also seems to be escalating, to the point now that it might not start up.
I believe it is a starter that is going bad, but not sure. The battery has a good charge on it while the car is off, and while the car is running. I put an amp clamp on the starter cable, and most of the starts were around 180 amps at start up. However, when it would drag real bad the amps would shoot up to around 350 amps at start up. What the Cold Cranking Amps are on these factory starters?
Should I go ahead and get a starter for the car, and then go from there.
So both of my Key Fobs stopped working. Replaced the batteries in both. They both still start the car, but neither will unlock. I have tried to re-program them via the steps in the owners manual, but that did not work. The light on the fobs flashes red when any button is pushed.
It is a 2007 Passat base. No fancy features. Dealer said I would need a new key, which didn't make any since since it still starts the car....
My 2007 Passat Wagon has a weird problem. Sometimes, it failed to start engine. The only signal on the panel is the red battery sign. I need to reinsert the key and try again. It does not happen every time.
View 19 RepliesMy '07 Passat 3.6L with 107k miles.
It's a short story luckily haha. Every single time I refuel the car, I have to hold the key in the start position for about 10 seconds before the car actually starts running. This ONLY happens when the car has just been refueled. It does manage to start every time but only after the starter has been cranking for about 10 seconds.
I'm thinking of ordering a new fuel filter at the same time I order some maintenance parts for my .:R32 but I don't think the fuel filter is the issue. I'm also going to order new spark plugs soon but unfortunately they're not available from the place I'm ordering the other parts from.
Several weeks ago I was getting an airbag fault. I brought my car in to get the female part of the seatbelt changed out. Less then a week later I started having issues with my ignition! It's not sensing the key being in, and won't start the car. Pushing the key in to start the car nothing happens, the radio doesn't turn on, with the drivers door open it doesn't give the warning that your keys are still in the ignition...it doesn't do anything?!? Now the dealership (that I've had a good relationship with) is trying to sell me an ignition. I'm curious if it's their screw up when changing out the seatbelt? can't afford to put another $300+ dollars into the car!
View 1 RepliesI just wanted to go to the store but the car won't does anything. not quite sure how to describe it but when i insert key and press it will not start, just clicking sound from underneath the steering wheel. also, the icons on the dashboard blink, turn on and off, car graphic in the middle is partially faded. the trunk will not open. also, key gets stacked in, took my five minutes to get it out. not sure what is going on.
View 7 RepliesWhen I start the car after its been sitting for a few hours it takes at least 10 minutes to the ac to start blowing cold air. If it sits for less than an hour cold air comes out right away. Went to the dealer last summer and everything was working to spec, of course...
View 18 RepliesI've been having an intermittent problem starting our 2007 Passat 2.0T. Sometimes when I insert the key fob into its slot the car starts then stalls immediately. The steering wheel icon is displayed and the MFD says "Steering column lock malfunction". The car eventually starts after several attempts but I'm wondering what's causing the problem
My wife are both guilty of two things that I've read in the manual and I'm thinking that may have contributed or is causing the problem. We both insert the key and push it in to start the car in one motion. The book says to do it in three motions. We also do not depress the brake pedal when starting the car.
Needless to say we are not going to that anymore. If I may have done damage to the steering column and its associated parts?
This might sound crazy but I was wondering if the bumper of the Elantra GT is compatible with the Elantra GL. I own an Elantra GL 2013 but I think the bumper of the GT is perfect and so I thought maybe I could install the GT bumper on my GL. I can't find the answer anywhere and I didn't ask where I bought my car yet.
View 27 RepliesI have a VOLVO S40 with mileage of about 122,000 km, engine and transmission models were B4204S, MPS6. The car water temperature suddenly down during driving. Connect the VIDA DICE to read the relevant fault codes, just only one: "ECM-0118 engine coolant temperature sensor, signal is too high, B420S3 0" according to the fault code, the least can exclude network CAN line, because in the communication control unit.
View 1 RepliesGot a 97 Sedan with 207k+ on it. Just did all struts (monroe quick-strut), brake pads, shoes, drums, rotors, calipers, rear and front sway bar endlinks, and lower ball joints. All hardware is tight and secured.
I am getting a clunk when I go over some bumps, but not all of them. I also find that it will clunk when I try to accelerate while turning out onto, say, a main road or something where I need to pick up speed. At times it sounds like it's coming from the passenger and others it sound like the middle or driver side.
Control arm bushings don't look too bad and would probably cause more noise when accelerating and braking. Both wheels are snug and don't move when tugging on them in the air. There is no play in the steering as well.
I have a 93 accord ex sedan, 4 cylinder, automatic that I bought in August. I live in South Dakota & it's starting to get cold here. When I first bought the car the temp gauge was working fine in that it would move to the middle of hot/cold range. Recently, I've noticed the interior doesn't get warm for awhile, even after driving 20 miles. It blows warm air but it seems like it should be warmer. I've also noticed the temperature gauge barely moves, if it does at all. Most of the time it doesn't move or just stays on cold. I did some research on here & thought I would try to change the thermostat, upper & lower hose and the antifreeze. I'm hoping this will heat up the interior better because it's starting to get cold here & fix the temp gauge.
Previously, I had a 91 accord & that would warm up great, even when it was bitterly cold here. What would cause the temp gauge to do this? I'm even thinking about changing the transmission control module because I read on here that could cause the gauges to have wrong readings. The speedo & rpm gauges also seem to have wrong readings, especially in the mornings or when I first drive it. I used my gps & found the speedo to be off by as much as 10 mph. The other item I've noticed is that I only get around 23-25 mpg highway & on my other accord I was averaging 28-30 mpg highway. Not sure if this is related or not but thought the more info the better.
I have done all the basic maintenance-oil & filter, plugs & wires, valve cover gasket, air filter, tranny fluid but have never done anything with the heating/cooling system.
I have a 1999 ford escort 4 door sedan, when the car is cold I can get it to start and it will run just fine, after it starts to warm up, it starts to make a misfire/ sputtering noise when it is starting to die when idling. when I am driving it, there are no signs it is going to die.
I took it to the ford dealership today and they said that I need to replace the fuel pump, and the relay control module.
I just replaced the fuel pump a week ago because I thought that was the problem. So I am thinking it is the Relay Control Module- only problem is I don't know where it is located, where it is?