Volvo :: S40 Sedan Water Temperature Is Too Low During Driving
Sep 1, 2015
I have a VOLVO S40 with mileage of about 122,000 km, engine and transmission models were B4204S, MPS6. The car water temperature suddenly down during driving. Connect the VIDA DICE to read the relevant fault codes, just only one: "ECM-0118 engine coolant temperature sensor, signal is too high, B420S3 0" according to the fault code, the least can exclude network CAN line, because in the communication control unit.
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I have a 93 accord ex sedan, 4 cylinder, automatic that I bought in August. I live in South Dakota & it's starting to get cold here. When I first bought the car the temp gauge was working fine in that it would move to the middle of hot/cold range. Recently, I've noticed the interior doesn't get warm for awhile, even after driving 20 miles. It blows warm air but it seems like it should be warmer. I've also noticed the temperature gauge barely moves, if it does at all. Most of the time it doesn't move or just stays on cold. I did some research on here & thought I would try to change the thermostat, upper & lower hose and the antifreeze. I'm hoping this will heat up the interior better because it's starting to get cold here & fix the temp gauge.
Previously, I had a 91 accord & that would warm up great, even when it was bitterly cold here. What would cause the temp gauge to do this? I'm even thinking about changing the transmission control module because I read on here that could cause the gauges to have wrong readings. The speedo & rpm gauges also seem to have wrong readings, especially in the mornings or when I first drive it. I used my gps & found the speedo to be off by as much as 10 mph. The other item I've noticed is that I only get around 23-25 mpg highway & on my other accord I was averaging 28-30 mpg highway. Not sure if this is related or not but thought the more info the better.
I have done all the basic maintenance-oil & filter, plugs & wires, valve cover gasket, air filter, tranny fluid but have never done anything with the heating/cooling system.
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My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.
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We are considering the purchase of a 1992 Volvo 960 sedan. We have two young daughters who both need to be using child seats. I cannot work out where the anchor points are for fitting the seats.
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Have 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
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I am happy owner of a 740 1987 4 door sedan. How to solve the problem: the engine do not stop when ignition key is removed.
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I recently bought a '97 Volvo 850 sedan. It is not a turbo. It starts up fine. It goes in reverse fine. It accelerates to about 10-15 mph fine. But when I accelerate faster than that, the rpm's go up and the car coasts. After about 20 minutes the car drives fine and it doesn't rev high. How to find what need replacing?
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So I recently bought a 2002 volvo s60 base sedan with a dead instrument cluster. I sent it out to be repaired and when I got it back and plugged it in, it did not work. At first I thought it was the company who repaired who messed up, but I looked up the numbers on the cluster and it is out of a 2001 Volvo. I have no way of contacting the previous owner to find out if they tried swapping out the cluster with one from the junkyard, or if they have the original cluster.
I don't know what to do because I cant send the cluster back to the company since I don't know if its the original one or not. Is there any way I can find out what the original numbers are on my cluster. Is there any way to find out the original numbers on the cluster using my vin number? I called the volvo dealer and all they gave me was the part number for a new cluster.
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Is there a known issue with water getting into the passenger side(floor) of the Passat sedans? Is the leak due to the sunroof?
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Resurrecting my 940 TD after it's been sitting for a year and the temperature needle now doesn't rise as the engine warms up. Is there any trouble with sensors on these or should i be concerned about something else? It was working when I stopped using the car.
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The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
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2001 volvo s40. Diagnostics performed. Error codes for the timing belt and temperature sensor. These were replaced. The check engine light still comes on/stays on.
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I have a 94 ranger 5 speed xlt v6 4.0l 288k miles original engine. in the last month the oil pressure has gradually gone way up. a manual gauge shows 65psi at cold start ( in the 90* out side) after a minute of idle it dropped to 60psi, at 2k rpms the psi was 85+. also the water temp has gotten hotter to the point of almost being unsafe. it appears that in the hotter part of the day the psi goes higher. the oil and filter was changed 1200 miles ago. the cooling system has been update in the last year with a new radiator new thermostat. no cross contamination in the fluids, engine runs good other than gauges on dash showing water and oil getting close to unsafe range and manual gauge showing high pressure.
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My 2004 RX330 which has gone many years without a problem suddenly has instrument panel gremlins.
I started the car a couple of days ago (it had rained during the day), and the airbag light did not turn off. Then the TPMS warning light came on, the water temperature gauge dropped to zero. The AC controls stopped responding. Since I needed to get home, and the car seemed otherwise fine, I drove home, after a few minutes the transmission "D" drive light went blank and the instrument back-light went to full brightness.
A few minutes later, all the warning lights went off and the back-light went back to normal. The AC controls still seemed to be off. A few minutes later the airbag warning light came back on, followed by the TPMS light and the back-light went to full brightness again. This cycle kept happening all the way home.
The next morning, hoping the problem had been some errant water getting into something, I started the car, opened the driver's door to get something and got back into the car, closing the door. The light showing the door was open stayed on. I put the car into reverse, the doors did not automatically lock as they usually do. I turned off the engine and restarted it, most of the other lights were off, the doors would lock; airbag & TPMS light came back on.
It has stayed that way, except I also get the A/T temperature warning light coming on periodically, and after some cycle it goes off.
I borrowed a car code reader, it does not seem to show any error codes. In reading some other postings it has been suggested that the Brake light switch is the cause, but the brake lights come on/off without any problem.
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Just noticed the passenger side floor has water frozen on carpet. There is no evidence of water on the sides or from the dash area. I reached under the car and I can see 2 holes, one of them is plugged with a rubber grommet/plug and the other I can stick my finger way up into it. My wife has been driving this in the rain a couple days last week.
Is that a possible source for the water getting in? Can I order a replacement plug if it fell out?
I just did read something about a "sealing cover" and I matched against the driver side and it does appear to be missing. Seems to be a round 40mm plug. I measured the driver side and plug is 40mm and the hole is more like 25mm. Is this the right part?
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I have a 1995 945SET the rear washer pump works but no water comes out of the nozzle, where do I find the rear washer nose and how do I get into it to repair or replace it?
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After several days of rain I found that the drivers side carpet is soaked. Upon further investigation I realized it was coming from underneath the car rather than from the side. I was able to put my hand under the carpet and feel the metal body underneath. It was soaked. I have never had this problem before and have not been in an accident. The car drives very well and has 130 miles. I recently replaced the transmission and was hoping to have this for a few more years.
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I have a 2002 camry that stalls out while driving. The car stalls when engine is warmed up and the car is running at appropriate temperature. When this occurs no "check engine lights" stay on and the car re-starts after 15-20 minutes and runs just fine. I had the car looked at by a Toyota dealer and another independent shop and they where unable to pull any codes from the computer module. The car is up to schedule with routine maintenance items. The car is garage kept and I go to the same gas station each fill up.
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If I don't warm the car up, the car will drive longer. However, once it gets up to operating temperature, it shuts off. The temperature gauge doesn't indicate it is overheating, however if I turn my heat on full blast it does not shut off. I have replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs already and know it could be one of many things but am not sure where to start now.
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I have an 02 SC430 and I recently noticed that my temperature gauge rose to 3/4 high after driving pretty hard on the interstate and then coming to a complete stop on side street traffic (mind you, it was like 95F outside) After traffic cleared and i started to move, the temp gauge went down to 1/2 and never rose again.
I tried to replicate the problem by having the car on idle and revving for a few minutes, but she stayed at half. I told my brother to watch the temp gauge if he drives it. He said the coolant was low and added coolant. Driving today, storming like hell, on the exit, i pull up to the red light and notice my temp gauge is to the cold position, but i have a check engine light on, VSC light on and VSC off light. I also noticed I'm smoking like hell, so i pull over to the nearest covering and pop the hood. My rad cap has popped off and coolant has spewed all over the engine. let it cool down and put the car on accessory.
At this point, my temp gauge is still at the cold position. started it up with no problems and the temp gauge shoots to the overheating position. I shut it down, let it cool. After a few minutes, i fire it up and drive it to the nearest gas station maybe 1000 ft away. Filled up almost 2 gallons of water and let it run with the rad cap off to get the air bubbles out. I notice a lot of air purging itself out of the coolant system. after running for 5 minutes with no variation in my temp gauge, i drive it for 5 minutes with no problems, no funny sounds, no funny misfire, no smoke (front or rear). The lights still have not come off... I can only attribute the overheating to air being in the cooling system.
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Before I go digging in my "information not available at time of printing" owner's manual, is there a reason why the temperature display on the MFI would flash and make a "ding-ding" noise at me while I'm driving?
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