When I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
View 13 RepliesHave a problem with the coolant gauge on their Passat? The temperature gauge on my 02 Passat sometimes reads normal (190) when I am driving and then all of a sudden it will drop back to 90. My first guess was the sending unit, but the dealer says it might be the gauge cluster too. I would think that if it was the gauge cluster the other gauges would act up too. ?
View 7 RepliesOk so my 2002 gti is having some boost problems... Instead of hitting boost consistently the boost is fluctuating for example hitting 12 psi then 15 psi and it just hits and bounces back to 0. what could be problem I was thinking bad downpipe, bad waste gate, or bad n75 valve.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
View 6 RepliesI just purchased a b5 99 1.8t. The tubing from the intake manifold to the dv was cut by accident (long story, dont ask).I replaced the dv and tubing .I want to check if the psi is correct. I dont have a boost gauge.
What are the ways to check it besides a boost gauge? I think the correct psi is around 6-8 ?
I have a strange problem, my boost guage needle is jumping like crazy, there is no vacuum leak and the max boost i get is 0.5 bar, when the guage needle is not jumping I get a boost of 1.4 bar. I have mechanical boost control.
97' passat B5 1.8T AEB with FMIC,K04-15,2.75",chip (that was made for the original k03).
The installation of a boost gauge and steering or column pod? I'm looking at installing the Podi Gauge for the MK5 - but I understand it needs some modifications to make everything fit correctly?
I searched but couldn't find the exact answer I was looking for - besides a retrofit to the pod, is there some drilling / t-fittings required for the actual install of the gauge? As far as I understand, it's a bit more involved than plug and play?
I just bought a 98 passat 1.8t manual trans, its has 105k on it now, I am having a problem with the turbo surging. I am running about 17 psi however every now and then i can put it to the floor and my boost gauge will jump from 12-17 just back and forth, I also have a prob every now and then where it will only build 4 psi and stay there i can down shift take my foot on and off the gas and still no change then just all of a sudden 17 again both these probs are intermittent looked briefly at vacuum lines.
View 2 Replies yesterday got the car tuned. Stage 2 APR, it's a 1.8T 5 speed and I only have 2 real issues with the tune.
1. They forgot left foot braking(I think I can call APR to have this sorted)
2. When accelerating hard and shifting a gear, no matter how you try it will not hold boost through a gear changed. Turning off ASR improves this greatly but it still purges pressure and as a result the car falls flat on its face. Then it spoils up and same thing in the next gear. Trying to hold wide open throttle through a gear change does not work as I believe it feels like the pressure plate isn't able to engage fast enough. It is a full on loud pshhhh purge could a possibly higher PSI Diverter Valve fix this.
No other APR car I've driven does this (given they were MkV and MkVI). I'm not quite sure what is different with the motor unless the stock Diverter is strictly for economy and as soon as you don't need boost it purges? Not really sure
My car is a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. the car is bone stock, I can not hold boost and it fluctuates all over the place. the dv sounded like a flutter until I bypassed the n249 now it sounds like a steady pssh. car still would only make 4lbs of boost and drop to 1-2lbs after 3500rpm. I pulled the line off the n75 to wastegate and did a pull. it boosted to 8lbs spiked to 15 and held 4lbs, if the tires spun it would spike to 12-15lbs and drop to 4 again. I replaced the n75 today and now will still spike high if I spin, with traction boosts about 8lbs which I believe is stock but then drops to 1-2 lbs then up to 4 down to 1-2 sometimes up to 6, it seems random. I also pinched off the dv to see if that was the problem but same thing.
I'm wondering how my car could lose boost with the wastegate actuator unhooked, I can not find a boost leak(not saying there isn't one, but haven't found one), the car holds more boost with the n75 unplugged and under acceleration, with n75 plugged in it seems like 3 surges per gear?
Car throws one code p1473 its an evap code.
The wastegate sounds like its closing when I pull the rod and let it go, lots of tension on it.
My gas gauge is moving up and down like when I start up the car the gas indicator will go down to the middle when my gas is full. My car is a 2003 toyota camry.
View 2 RepliesMy brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
I recently had some issues getting my 2000 Blazer LS started. It would act as though the battery was dying. But if I let it set a few moments, it would start right up. Then a couple days later, I needed a jump start to get it going. I took it to my local Auto Zone to have the alternator tested because the battery was only 3 years old. (It was a 5 year battery.)
They determined that it was the battery. So I went to Walmart and bought a 700 CCA battery. And today the gauge is fluctuating again.... Considering it is cold and snowing here, heat, wipers, and rear defrost tend to be essential. But if I try to run all of them, the gauge dumps. And causes everything to bog down. I do not have any aftermarket electronics installed in the truck. And until last Thursday, this was not an issue.
So today we were driving back home and the oil gauge start fluctuating rapidly. However it would only fluctuate when the engine speed was slow, like when you are at an idle in gear. Once I gave it some throttle the needle came back to normal. Also while making a turn the needle stayed steady as well, which made me think that it isn't a low level situation,(plus I did verify the oil level once I came to a stop).
I keep reading about oil pressure sending units going bad. I just so happen to an extra aftermarket sending unit and gauge from summit racing laying around, so I'll hook that up tomorrow and see about what the pressure actually is at idle. I hope that it is just a small problem. Whats the pressure supposed to be for the 4.0 OHV at idle anyway.
My son recently bought a 2012 GLS. The temp gauge was fluctuating and I noticed the overflow was really low. I added coolant and warmed the car up with no change. After it cooled a little, I cracked the radiator cap and heard bubbling air. Upon complete removal of the cap, I saw no fluid, however, the cap is above the radiator where the hoses connect. I added coolant directly to this opening until I could see it. Closed everything up and warmed up the car. Temp gauge is now steady 1 mark below half way. The question is, did I add enough coolant? and should I see coolant inside the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold?
View 15 RepliesThe A/C on my hand-me-down '99 Lumina has never been outstanding, but has kept the Florida summers at bay. I recently turned it on again (I only ran it once or twice this winter) and the system was empty. I refilled it and it was empty again in 72 hours. I was hoping the seals had just dried out, but it continues to empty after several other attempts to recharge it, including adding 134a with lubricants. I added 134a with UV dye in it and the only leak I found is around the compressor clutch. I accept that the compressor probably has to go, but am puzzled by the manifold gauge readings taken when I added the last can. I just don't want to put in a new compressor and find out that wasn't the only problem.
With the system off, both High and Low sides read just under 70. (Normal Low and High side operating pressures for this car are listed at 42 and 340 respectively.) When the system is turned on, Low drops to 30 and High goes to 80 and there is no air cooling. After 30 seconds the High side slowly climbs to 200 and the Low side slowly drops to 26, with almost no air cooling. When the High side hits 200, it drops back down to 80 and the Low side goes back to 30. After 30-45 seconds it does it again and keeps repeating. The compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time. I looked in the Haynes A/C Techbook as well as online and can't find anything that resembles this description. If this is just symptomatic of a bad compressor, or is there more evil afoot? Also, while I have the system open are there any parts I should replace at the same time given the age of the system?
I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
I have an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe. Check engine light comes on, fuel gauge goes from empty to full, to half, to 1/4, just all over the place. Even ran out of gas a few times on the side of the road not knowing how much fuel I have.
What exactly causes this problem? I've heard "fuel sender" I've heard "fuel pressure sensor" etc. All are different parts. Need to get this repaired asap.
So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
I have a 2007 Prius with just under 83,000 miles on it. I've always gotten in the mid to low 40s in mpg, no matter how I drive. It's lower in the winter & higher in the summer. Over the past year or so, the gas tank seems to hold increasingly less gas. With one notch left on the fuel gauge, it only takes about 6 gallons to 'fill' up. Most recent mpg shows about 45, but I was down to one notch after only 263 miles. I recently replaced both the hybrid and the auxiliary batteries. So, what my issue is?!?!?
View 7 RepliesI noticed last night while I was driving the idle speeds were fluctuating, it idled around 600-700 rpm, then would bump up to 850-900 rpms, then dip down to 500 rpms and then back up... the whole car would kinda shudder a little bit... I don't know if this is related but I had the engine running at idle for about 2 hours before driving it, and I observed the strange idle behavior after it had been running that long. My car also stalled twice... once while sitting idle and the other while I was in traffic (bumper-to-bumper, barely moving).
When normal driving, the car is great, just like it used to be, but at idle it exhibits this odd behavior. Does it have something to do with my engine running at idle for so long? Is this a problem I should be concerned with? And lastly...do I have to bring it in for another repair and possibly be without it for more days?
One other thing I ought to mention... I had just put gas in, 93 octane from Sunoco (this particular location I hadn't visited before, but i don't think thats the case) - could it just be bad gasoline? Or maybe could the shop I had left it with have put regular gas in while they had it...