Passat (B6) :: Idle Speeds Fluctuating When Driving
Dec 21, 2007
I noticed last night while I was driving the idle speeds were fluctuating, it idled around 600-700 rpm, then would bump up to 850-900 rpms, then dip down to 500 rpms and then back up... the whole car would kinda shudder a little bit... I don't know if this is related but I had the engine running at idle for about 2 hours before driving it, and I observed the strange idle behavior after it had been running that long. My car also stalled twice... once while sitting idle and the other while I was in traffic (bumper-to-bumper, barely moving).
When normal driving, the car is great, just like it used to be, but at idle it exhibits this odd behavior. Does it have something to do with my engine running at idle for so long? Is this a problem I should be concerned with? And lastly...do I have to bring it in for another repair and possibly be without it for more days?
One other thing I ought to mention... I had just put gas in, 93 octane from Sunoco (this particular location I hadn't visited before, but i don't think thats the case) - could it just be bad gasoline? Or maybe could the shop I had left it with have put regular gas in while they had it...
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Have a problem with the coolant gauge on their Passat? The temperature gauge on my 02 Passat sometimes reads normal (190) when I am driving and then all of a sudden it will drop back to 90. My first guess was the sending unit, but the dealer says it might be the gauge cluster too. I would think that if it was the gauge cluster the other gauges would act up too. ?
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My 2000 V10 is throwing some codes. The truck drives great, the only thing I notice is the rpm fluctuating down at idle once in a while. It doesn't stall, just not smooth. Here is the log from my torque app that I saved yesterday while driving: Where should I start ? Clean the MAF first ? oxygen sensors ?
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175: System too Rich (Bank 2)
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0153: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
------------------------------<wbr>----------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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I have a 98 honda civic ex with the d16y8, have replaced the map sensor and iacv and still have a fluctuating idle only when car is warm or at operating temperature. it has dc sports racing headers into a straight pipe then exhaust tip. does not have any o2 seniors on it(wasn't my choice was like that when i got it) will idle up and down between 1700 and 2200 rpm also after replacing iacv the car jerk when going at low speeds or letting off then getting back on accelerator.
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My prius battery just died overnight a few weeks ago because i left the door open. I got it jump started by aaa.
The battery level has been fluctuating when im driving. It would go up and down and not stay up while driving. Generally regenerates when i brake alot. I just got it serviced at toyota and they OK'd the battery condition.
Battery fluctuating during driving. Normal or not normal? am i just paranoid?
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I've been noticing that my 15 RCF idles a bit weird. Regardless if AC is on or not, the idle seems to always be fluctuating a couple hundred rpms - almost barely noticeable. Usually 500-700rpm back and forth. Doesn't really bother me but I wonder if it's just my car or if all the RCF has the same issue and if it was a sign of a bigger issue.
Doesn't matter which mode I'm in either. Of course it's only noticeable when there is the actual needle stick on the RPM gauge (eco mode and the gauge with the yellow doesn't show well).
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I sometimes have a weird idle. When my car is cold the idle is fine. When the car is warm the idle is fine. The idle only gets weird sometimes when I drive the car, park it for an hour or so, start the car again (temp gauge is about half way from complete cold start to complete warmed up) and I get a fluctuating rpm tach. It bounces around 50-75 rpms for a while. You can definitely feel it in the car and if you stand behind the exhaust you can here it slightly burp/hiccup. The car has 16k miles on it and it's a 2015. The gas mileage and performance has not changed. I don't know if it has done this since day one as I usually have my radio on. I heard it once now I make a point to see if it does it. I also don't have any CEL on.
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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Getting a roaring sound when driving at speeds above 20mph... Almost sounds like loud exhaust, but it does not fluctuate with engine RPM's. 40K on the car - bought one year ago... seems pre-mature to fail that quickly no?
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So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
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So any ICP sensor been proven bad but i was not leaking oil? The symptoms of my truck sound similar to a bad ICP...fluctuating idle, surging, stalling, but it does run and start. IT tends to start acting up when it hits operating temp.
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When I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
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When driving at slow speeds and when I go over a bump in the road, I'll hear something like the metal part of the wheel scraping something as its turning. Only comes from the front drivers side wheel. It's audible enough that people usually turn to look when I'm in a parking lot.
Took it to the dealer, they 'test drove' it. Said they couldn't hear anything. Then said that whatever I'm hearing is 'normal suspension noise'. So after leaving it a full day at the dealer, nothing has changed. Since when is ANY suspension noise normal? But I don't think its the suspension. What to do? Take it back? Take it to another dealer?
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My front right tire has been squealing when I turn. It also makes a high pitch tone when driving on the Interstate or at faster speeds. (It might be the wheel barrings - is that the same thing as a CV joint?)
Is the power steering fluid found under the green cap, under the hood? Cause I checked that and it was filled. What do I do? I don't like the squeak when I turn, nor the high pitch constant sound when driving on the interstate. Also I just posted a report about really poor gas mileage. Could these problems be connected??
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When I drive the idle surges up and down and stalls when i slow down.
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I have a 2002 passat. It is a 1.8T. I have a stock turbo, it has a full aftermarket front mount hooked up. It also has a blow off valve. OK my issue is that I believe it runs too rich. When I drive the idle will drop and the car will stall out. It has its good days and bad days. What can I do to make this not happen? Would I have to have a recirculate the air flow again? Should I have everything stock again? Would anything else stop this happening? As well as how much PSI does this car stock suss posed to push? I have a boost meter that only reads max 5 psi. Should it be more? I am new to VW and brought the car off a friend.
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95 350 Tbi does well idling in park and on the highway but at idle speeds it shudders. And if i slow down to make a stop it shudders til i get my speed back up or floor it. It have new plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, TPS, IAC, new throttle body gasket, new vacuum lines. What else could it be?
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OK, Got this 2000 Excursion with 6.8. Recently, it just won't hardly idle, the code says MAF, but it ain't cause I bought a new one.
The Idle is like this: with MAF plugged in It starts and the rpms shoot up to appx 1200 for about 3 or 4 seconds, then it goes down to a point where you think it is going to stall, BUT at the last second it goes back up to 1200 rpm. It will usually do this for 5 or 6 times, but eventually it does stall.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Has about 65k miles on it and has regular maintenance and tune ups when needed. It is cared for. The last tune up was about 2k miles ago. Spark plug change, oil change, filters, etc.
I have noticed lately that when the car is moving at idle speeds, it will surge about 200 rpms. It does not happen when the breaks are on or stopped or in park, or moving at higher speeds. It only does it while moving and with no acceleration. It happens in Drive and Reverse.
I live in the city of Lima Peru so a 4x4 is useful but it also requires some tight parking but when it starts to surge, it is a huge pain.
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