I just purchased a b5 99 1.8t. The tubing from the intake manifold to the dv was cut by accident (long story, dont ask).I replaced the dv and tubing .I want to check if the psi is correct. I dont have a boost gauge.
What are the ways to check it besides a boost gauge? I think the correct psi is around 6-8 ?
I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
View 6 RepliesWhen I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
View 13 RepliesI have a strange problem, my boost guage needle is jumping like crazy, there is no vacuum leak and the max boost i get is 0.5 bar, when the guage needle is not jumping I get a boost of 1.4 bar. I have mechanical boost control.
97' passat B5 1.8T AEB with FMIC,K04-15,2.75",chip (that was made for the original k03).
The installation of a boost gauge and steering or column pod? I'm looking at installing the Podi Gauge for the MK5 - but I understand it needs some modifications to make everything fit correctly?
I searched but couldn't find the exact answer I was looking for - besides a retrofit to the pod, is there some drilling / t-fittings required for the actual install of the gauge? As far as I understand, it's a bit more involved than plug and play?
I just bought a 98 passat 1.8t manual trans, its has 105k on it now, I am having a problem with the turbo surging. I am running about 17 psi however every now and then i can put it to the floor and my boost gauge will jump from 12-17 just back and forth, I also have a prob every now and then where it will only build 4 psi and stay there i can down shift take my foot on and off the gas and still no change then just all of a sudden 17 again both these probs are intermittent looked briefly at vacuum lines.
View 2 RepliesThe A/C on my hand-me-down '99 Lumina has never been outstanding, but has kept the Florida summers at bay. I recently turned it on again (I only ran it once or twice this winter) and the system was empty. I refilled it and it was empty again in 72 hours. I was hoping the seals had just dried out, but it continues to empty after several other attempts to recharge it, including adding 134a with lubricants. I added 134a with UV dye in it and the only leak I found is around the compressor clutch. I accept that the compressor probably has to go, but am puzzled by the manifold gauge readings taken when I added the last can. I just don't want to put in a new compressor and find out that wasn't the only problem.
With the system off, both High and Low sides read just under 70. (Normal Low and High side operating pressures for this car are listed at 42 and 340 respectively.) When the system is turned on, Low drops to 30 and High goes to 80 and there is no air cooling. After 30 seconds the High side slowly climbs to 200 and the Low side slowly drops to 26, with almost no air cooling. When the High side hits 200, it drops back down to 80 and the Low side goes back to 30. After 30-45 seconds it does it again and keeps repeating. The compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time. I looked in the Haynes A/C Techbook as well as online and can't find anything that resembles this description. If this is just symptomatic of a bad compressor, or is there more evil afoot? Also, while I have the system open are there any parts I should replace at the same time given the age of the system?
I may have got a few shavings in the engine while drilling and tapping a hole for my boost gauge on the Y pipe. I am sure I got 95% of the shavings out but am now worried about the 5% that may have fell inside.
View 8 RepliesI have a leak between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. The golden clamp (c-clamp? v-clamp?) broke, and now there is a gap between the two. The dealership doesnt cover it under powertrain warranty (my car has passed regular warranty) but worst of all they do not sell the clamp on its own.
I posted a link to a picture below, it isn't my turbo.
[URL] .....
My passat turbo went out a while back and cant figure out why? The Idle is the same as always was, engine is smooth while driving and changing gears, but the boost is very very low but not completely out. All vaccum lines are connected and cant hear the diaphram releasing like it used to abviously cause there's no pressure.
View 2 RepliesI just bought an a/c manifold gauge set for testing my car's a/c system. Should you test it with the the car at idle speed or should it be higher?
View 3 RepliesI'm fighting with my latest purchase, a '99 Passat 1.8T AEB with the Tiptronic trans. I'll just get right into it. The car has been gutless since the first time I drove it, thinking it was the DV, I talked the seller down on price and took the car home. It wasn't the DV... so I checked all the basic things I could to try and find an issue. This included checking for vacuum leaks (only found one, fixed it), fuel pressure (50psi at idle with hose connected and 58psi disconnected), boost (5-7psi with wastegate accuator connected, but only spikes to 10psi between shifts with it disconnected), and compression test (180psi for all cylinders). None of the tests pointed anywhere, but the spark plugs did show signs of a lean mixture (white and chalky).
With the basics out of the way I bought an ebay VAG-COM cable and VCDS-Lite from Ross-Tech. After setting up the VCDS-Lite software I began with a MAF test, which showed a high of 96g/s, lower than the expected 120g/s. I grabbed a different MAF sensor and tried it, but the results were almost identical. Then I looked at throttle angle, this was 86.8 degrees at WOT, which seems to be average for AEB engines. However, at mechanical WOT VCDS-Lite says that it is only at "Part Throttle". I'm thinking this is just an inconsistency with the software, but I don't know. The last thing I checked was fuel trims, but they were slow to respond, only showing 0.0% for most of the drive and eventually changing to 0.8%. From what I've read this seemed normal.
Any other tests I can try? I'm leaning towards the MAF sensor being the culprit, but I swapped it with a used one and saw no change. Maybe both were bad? Can the throttle position sensor cause this? I read an older thread where the angle sensor said WOT but not the position sensor.
So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
View 2 RepliesI have recently purchased a c70 t5 which supposedly had been remapped. Anyway this weekend I changed the ICarScan unit and pipework, replaced the turbo vacuum lines and it has had a full service oil,plugs,rotor arm and cap etc. Prior to this it would occasionally pull aggressively and other times not. Now it boost all the time and feels good, however I noticed the boost gauge is now hitting almost 1.5 bar and dropping to about 0.9 bar. What could be causing this. In addition to the above work I removed the nasty badly modified inlet pipe and fitted an original between the air box and turbo. Which connection go where so I can ensure I am correct.
View 1 RepliesHow accurate is the stock boost gauge on 02 wrx? is it a real boost gauge or is it just for show? 3000gt vr4 has one, but it is not a real one and work with maf sensor only. also is stock bov good for 15-16 psi. we have a stock 02 wrx and we are thinking to up the boost to about 1 bar, but not sure i can trust the stock boost gauge. the car also has catback and cold air intake on it.
View 1 RepliesI'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
View 14 RepliesOkay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
Bought a 1.8t 04 gli. Was boosting 15 pounds so i did a boost leak test. Found pcv up hose from valve to y pipe at valve cover was almost blown in half, so i replace all of that stuff with oem.
Boost leak test again, found where boost gauge is hooked up to, turbo outlet to n75, the hose was leaking, i fixed that.
Boost leak test yet again, n75 was not clamped down, so clamped that.
Boost leak test one last time, held 10 psi before blowing the cap out of the intake. Which is pretty dangerous, my cap is made out of a spray can cut in half. Sounds like a canon. Anyways i heard zero leaks.
So now I am boosting 18psi and holding perfectly fine. Why I am showing ZERO vacuum on my boost gauge??
I live in Scotland so have a right hand drive 2003 MKIV R32. I got a VF stage 1 kit fitted last year and now I want to fit a boost gauge. I've bought a NewSouth indigo 0-30 psi gauge and a column pod.
What I need to know is where to take the feed from, where is the best place to fit the vacuum tube to get the best readings? any photos would be good.
I plan on fitting it this weekend along with my oil pressure gauge.
Car now has about 67,000 miles on it. I drove it from the bay to Lake Tahoe 2 weeks ago, which is when I first noticed the light. I tried to go to a couple of autozone's to get the code read but none of them would do it. I also noticed that now on my boost gauge that i am only reading 4-5psi under load, so its not quite feeling like i'm getting as much power as before. What a common issue is at about this many miles on a 1.8t car? (GLI)
View 3 RepliesI purchased a P3Cars gauge and an analog boost sensor with an ECS boost tap. I seem to be getting some fluttering noise at higher boost (greater than about 15 psi).
It was my understanding that digital boost gauges didn't buzz, so I thought I high have some movement of the boost sensor, hose, or the interface box for the gauge. I've got these pretty well padded and fixed with zip ties.
Do I need to get an inline restrictor (cotton swab, filter or otherwise) to eliminate this fluttering noise?