As the title says.... it slipped on a first gear pull and then another time on the highway on the on ramp in high RPM in second....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 GTI and I got the APR 93 octane chip about 6000 miles ago. The other day I pushed the gas to pass a car on the highway in 6th gear and it sounded like my clutch slipped a bit. It made me quite nervous as the car only has 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping maybe it just got glazed over a bit.
All of my other cars had manual transmission so it's not my driving skills and I don't beat on my car either. My last 2002 GTI had 150,000 miles on it when I sold it and 140,000 of those were chipped. Never once did that clutch slip.
Wondering if this would cause any wear to the clutch or anything but was in gear 3 about to upshift but my foot slipped off the clutch and the car didnt jerk the rpms just went back to where they were. Curious if that would do anything
View 6 RepliesAs we know, flashing dash lights are a part of owning a Volkswagen. Even moreso a modded Volkswagen. Last night I was treated to my first CEL during 3rd gear pull merging onto the highway. At 4200 RPM, the car cut timing and throttle ferociously and the CEL came on and flashed for about 10 seconds. The road was rough so I anticipated that it was the car registering a knock and Bronson said it could've been that. I pulled over, checked everything I could visually at 1:00 AM and it all seemed fine. Car accelerated and boosted well from then on, on the way home.
This morning I got in for the drive to work and noticed within 2-3 miles that the car was idling strangely. Not long after, the CEL came on. It would surge from 1,000 to 1,300 RPM randomly. I took it back home to pick up my VCDS and my laptop and scanned the following codes:
Code:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
Since then I have checked:
- Intake hoses/clamps
- Intercooler hoses/clamps
- Diverter valve hoses/clamps
- Throttle body pipe/clamps
- PCV hoses (The PCV on the valve cover was replaced by the BFI catch can. It has been on the car for over 6,000 miles with no issues, and all of the fittings are tight.)
- Boost tap hoses/clamps
I reset the codes and drove it to work and all was well, but I'm staying out of boost until I find out what the problem is. The car has stock plugs, stock coils and stock DV and only 7,800 miles.
Thread here with the full VCDS scan: [URL] ....
I got my Passat about 1 month ago, and I have this pull to the right. Which is annoying, as I drive quite a bit on the highway.
At the dealer, they "fixed" it by moving the tires around and matching tires with the same side wall rigidity. I got my car back, and it's still pulling to the right.
95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
So about 200 miles into brake in and I backed up my steep driveway, a feat previously easy with the stock clutch. Backed up with my new setup (SB OFE disc) and all I could smell was burning clutch. Aside from this I have been strictly adhering to clutch break in best practices. The clutch will be ok still in the long run, or did I potentially cause permanent damage?
View 5 RepliesYesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
I have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
I have a 2006 accent gls manual and when I am on the highway in 5th gear my rpms are high. if I am cruising at 110km my rpms will be almost at 3500..
View 13 RepliesI drive a 2003 Pontiac Vibe GT (6 speed Manual) and I have noticed that when im in 6th gear going highway speeds, I have an RPM of about 3K. For this model I feel this value is high and im worried about engine wear and fuel economy. I'm not sure about the other gears, but from my knowledge of other cars in the same weight category, less horsepower and 4-speed automatic gearbox, my car should not have such high RPM.
View 12 RepliesFor some reason when GX470 is parked, it does not want to reverse when slipped into gear. I have to apply a some pressure on the gas pedal and than it moves with a loud thud like noise, I have noticed it when the GX is parked for 24-36 hours.
We leave here in N-CAL and weather cant be an issue. Besides it always parked in the garage.
I was driving home from Las Vegas and my avalon just randomly slipped out of gear. I pulled over and put in into park and back into drive and it started to roll backwards the fluid is full and clean.... I bought this car 6 months ago and it barely hit 90xxx miles...
View 7 RepliesI just got my first VW its a 99 passat 1.8 turbo and the clutch seems to catch really high is that normal? its a brand new clutch!
View 2 RepliesMy 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting.
The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
I picked up a 2012 2.5L SE w/ Sunroof and Nav over the Christmas holiday.
I have been driving back and forth between Dallas and Kansas for work and I've notice an "odd" noise at highway speeds. When I have the cruise control set for the upper 70's and the car is in 6th, I can hear, for lack of a better word, a hum from the rear of the car. If I switch the Tiptronic down to 5th the hum goes away. As soon as I shift back to 6th, it returns.
I've been noticing that my 2012 Passat TDI with 125,000 miles, hasn't been shifting to 6th gear when driving down the highway. I've actually noticed it's one gear too low even when driving down city streets. We have been experiencing extreme cold weather in Pennsylvania, so perhaps that's a factor.
If I manually shift to 6th gear, it stays in gear, but it appears that the engine RPMs are a bit lower than usual as well, but I could be wrong there.
My buddy has a 2000 1.8t 5 speed wagon, it got towed the other day and now it is having issues shifting. I doubt that it is related to the towing. If you start the car in neutral, you cant get it to shift into any gear with the clutch pressed. Even if you try to shift with the clutch not pressed, it physically wont go into gear, it wont even grind. it just wont go.
However, it goes into gear with the car off. Your an start the car in gear with the clutch pressed, and can drive as normal....until you need to shift. at which point, it does as described above. He had a shop tell him that the clutch is bad, but it does not slip. I was thinking perhaps the shift linkage, but I don't know a whole lot about these transmissions, I am only well acquainted with mk2/mk3 style 020's.
When I have the clutch depressed and start to let out as I'm either in reverse or in first gear it makes a clatter/chatter noise. It also occurs when I have the clutch depressed and just rev the engine and it's in neutral. Some days it's louder than others. It doesn't matter if the engine is cool or at normal temp.
View 7 RepliesJust went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.