I am having issues with loss of power, feels like engine is not getting air. Wondering if their are any fixes or tests I could attempt myself. Car facts:
2007 b6 2.0t .... 107,xxx miles
Have not cleaned intake manifold yet - on my to do list
P-flo intake (thinking of changing/ changing filter
Can follower/timing belt serviced recently
I have passat 2007 2.0T , about 98000km. A few months ago, my vehicle randomly has hiccup with EPC light when I put on the pedal. Each times i put on the pedal my vehicle hiccups and EPC light on and all goes away when i put off my foot from the pedal. It happened randomly, so i went to vw dealership twice. They keep saying they could not find any problem. Coz as i said it happens randomly. I paid diagnostic fee but still the problem remains.
Unfortunately today i had the same issue hiccup like crazy with epc and engine lights. Also on the highway my baby 2 years old was with me when i drove, my vehicle lost power all the sudden, all most i involved an accident with following vehicle. I started the engine, vehicle moves but with the problem. I feel wheels do not spin properly or transmission randomly. What the problem is?
2002 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 98K miles.
Was driving home tonight and nearly didn't make it. A few miles down the road I hit the gas hard going up a hill but the Passat kind of lunged a little and lost a lot of power and the engine emblem starting blinking. Coasted down a hill and it stopped and all was well again. From here on I am going careful up hills and not accelerating too fast.
I drive about 30 miles, 10 miles to go and I have to pull a tall hill. Going up this hill the light starts blinking again and I lose most of my power, engine feels like its not hitting on all cylinders and the turbo must be out. Barely make it home going about 40 mph. My check engine light has been on for quite some time, in fact I have had reset about 6-8 times with replacing sensors, air mass meters, etc. Could this be the timing belt?
2001.5 V6 Tiptronic ... A few times in the last couple of months I've felt what I think is a quick lapse in power, like 1 sec. or less. I say "think" because sometimes a bump in the road, traction related, or some other perceived issue can feel strange, especially when cruising along on a smooth cruise-controlled drive.
Each time this has occurred I've been in cruise control, freeway driving, relatively low speeds (65 MPH) . No other signs of anything wrong, chimes, flickering lights, vibration, nothing.
I can't be sure this time around but it seems in the past it's been on the same stretch of freeway, perhaps the same spot. In other words perhaps just a subtle anomaly in the road ...
My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T manual transmission is experiencing loss of power/hesitation during acceleration. Occasionally the check engine light will blink for about 10 seconds during this time. My valve cover gasket blew about 7 months ago. I had it replaced along with 2 ignition coils. Since then I have had replaced the other 2 coils and spark plugs because of this recurring problem. I have also replace the mass airflow sensor for the second time. The diagnostic check continually shows misfires in different cylinders for which I again tried replacing the coils. I have also received the codes for "fuel mixture too lean" as well as for too rich. What could be causing this?
View 4 RepliesI have VW99 Passat 1.8L Turbo, automatic with 170K on it.
My car shop changed engine oil yesterday with 4 QTS of Mobile 5W40. Now, when I check my dipstick today, on level surface, the oil level is way too high on dipstick kink [the cross-hatched mark]. I run the engine, shut it off, and let it set for 3 min, but still the level is too high above the Mark. It wets the dipstick almost till the top of its Head.It was reading High when I first checked it, this morning, before starting my car.
It seems the oil is 'overfilled' or showing over filled; and the engine is about to throw it out from "filler cap" where Dipstick goes in the engine. I saw him using 4 cans 1 QTS oil, which I bought, into my car. They did change the "oil filter" at the same time?
Now, my car looses power while driving. When I accelerated from a stop/light, car slows down or limps. The car suffered a sudden loss of power.It runs awful for about a mile but smoothed out after acceleration.It feels like the car is running out of gas for a few seconds, then all of a sudden it kicks in. The car still drives ok though - No error messages/warnings on dash,CEL, no smoke, no hissing. I actually don't see engine oil thrown out or leaking though.
I don't know if the shop drained the "intercooler" while changing the oil, also I know nothing about its importance to my power loss issue. The net search manual/states "The engine oil, above the level, can be drawn into the crankcase ventilation system, and enter the atmosphere via the exhaust system". But it does says about damaging the engine/car.
Should I be worried about the damage to the engine?
Ok, so I have my VR6, and I have a 2.0T as well. My 2.0T feels MUCH faster than my VR6, and I don't think it's normal. What's happening is when I put the gas pedal to the floor, the car almost acts like it wants to die, the RPM's go all the way down, and there is complete power loss for a few seconds. Then all of a sudden, all the power is there at once. Weird, right? For some reason I keep thinking it's related to the transmission. It almost feels like the car has no idea what gear to be in and doesn't know to downshift or something.
View 14 RepliesAir blowing noise that sounds like a disconnected turbo or hose. Loss of power accelerating and downshifting.
View 4 RepliesI have lost significant power to my 2001 B5 1.8T, my first though is that it was the turbo, i took it to a mechanic who said it could either be the CAT or the Turbo but wants to charge me two hours of labor to find out. Is there any simple way to determine what is the source of my lack of power? I know the turbo is not working at all but the mechanic said that it could be because of a dead CAT and the turbo could actually be fine. I do not have any fault codes which makes this even more strange. Also even with the lack of power I have still been driving it because I need a car, what's the potential harm. The car runs normally, its just slow, it doesn't make funny noises or anything.
View 6 RepliesAfter installing new struts and springs, I have now lost power steering. The car was fine after the strut install, but after driving a bit, the power steering quit. Can this be related the install, or completely unrelated?
View 10 RepliesDriving the 98 Passat this morning everything fine. Then total loss of power, give it any gas and it stumbles and almost dies. Idles fine, can rev it in park or nuetral. Starts and idles fine, give it gas and it starts to move thens just dies down. If leave foot on accelerator, will move at idle pace but stumble with no power whatsoever. No "check engine" light. DOn't have a VAG tester but do have OBDII. Haven't checked if any stored codes. Will an OBD code be stored an not light up the CEL?
View 5 RepliesI had idle travelling problem wich I solved changing AIT sensor. At the same time I cleaned MAF and TB with air sensor cleaner. Now my problem is cold start and driving 2nd and 3rd gear. Instantaneuous fuel consumption will go 20l to 50l driving 2nd and 3rd gear and if I stop values lowers like 20l...16l...10l... and finally on idle it stays in 0.8l/s. Average consumpion has increased 1l to 2l/100km.
These are the air mass readings when I drive 2nd and 3rd gear
rpm ja air mass g/s
1400 9,56
1240 9,22
1240 8,97
1240 8,64
1240 8,47
1200 8,86
1240 8,44
1240 8,31
1240 8,5
1240 8,36
1240 8,17
1240 7,67
1240 7,89
1240 7,89
1480 6,17
2600 7,03
3120 34,14
Full Throttle
2800 48,89
3320 94,11
4040 112,31
4680 135,56
5320 150,31
Turbo asked vs. actual value
1510 1290
1990 1970
1970 1980
1890 1870
1000 1180
Vehicle details : PASSAT 2.0 TDI 170 BHP DSG - 2007 ... 160KM
Problem:-
>>RPM doesn't climb as it should and esp in the run up to 3 gear and the DSG up shifts too quickly 4th and 5th
>>Loss of power. Pressing the gas pedal during all this leads to lots of black smoke and jerking but eventually the car picks up rpm and speed. Am I stuck in limp-home mode here?
>> No CEL light (yet)
The problem becomes very prominent when the engine warms up fully. Its drivable before that. Driving it in Sports mode is the only saving grace. Note that the car it is nothing like how it should be in sports mode, but feels better. I can hear the turbo whistle only when the engine is cold.
Initially, the Engine mounts were thought to be the culprit (for jerking and then ECU reducing power) and then later the EGR value unit (jerking/pinking and power loss).
Work done so far :
1. Original VW Timing Belk Kit (incl water pump) - September 2012
2. Engine Mounts changed - - September 2012
3. Has been plugged into VAG Diagnostic software and an intermittent error was detected for EGR.So, EGR valve control unit was changed - late December 2012
4. Engine Oil (5W-30, fully Synth) and filter changed three time in space of last 10K KMs after I bought the car in September 2012. This is something I wanted to get done anyway to flush the engine
5. Used injector cleaning additives couple of times -December 2012
6. ECU (error-code) reset procedure, just a couple of days ago. This actually seemed to remove some of the jerking and loss of power, but it appears to be coming back now.
7. Transmission reset - yesterday . Did this anyway although the DSG seems to be fine, no problems with the gear shifts
2001 1.8T ... using oil 500ml/100km
- Blowing smoke-intermittent
- Power loss-intermittent
Some jelly white stuff in oil may not be related... Service techs looking at turbo....
Ii had drove my car about 20 miles and after i had got inside and turned it on to drive it again CEL started flashing and car was sputtering lost power and felt like it didn't want to move so I had taken it to a VW specialist and he diagnosed it and told me its my coil pack and its got a bit water inside it and I would need to replace it and he said he would charge me $300 to replace ...
So I figured if its just the coil pack I could most likely do it myself and could this be from the coil pack? and why would there be water in my spark plug? Should I replace all coil or just the one that's bad.
I got into my car about 5 minutes ago and while driving i noticed a ample amount of power loss. I would go half throttle and my rmp's would go up by my speed seemed lacking even full on it it seemed to be lagging and was a slow climb to 60. Could it be my turbo not putting out or something more serious. Its a 99 1.8t ....
View 10 RepliesWhen ever I "Brake boost" it kills the power when I hit the brake and gas hard at the same time.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
View 14 RepliesI have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
Experienced an almost unsafe loss of stopping power when backing up after a cold start? Every morning when I back down the driveway in reverse, by about the third pump of my brakes the pedal effort increases, the pedal becomes very hard (like when you pump the pedal when the car is off) and I have a hard time bringing the car to a stop to put it in drive. I need to take it in to have this looked at...
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