Passat (B6) :: Loss Of Braking Power When Backing Up After Cold Start
Jun 14, 2007
Experienced an almost unsafe loss of stopping power when backing up after a cold start? Every morning when I back down the driveway in reverse, by about the third pump of my brakes the pedal effort increases, the pedal becomes very hard (like when you pump the pedal when the car is off) and I have a hard time bringing the car to a stop to put it in drive. I need to take it in to have this looked at...
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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It's a UK VW Passat year 2000 with 1.8i longitudinal engine layout. Car has ABS
I discovered that the brakes are not releasing quickly after application. Examples where this has been noticed:
When braking and accelerating at the same time to dry brakes after puddles. Noticeable lack of power to re-accelerate when you release the brake pedal, presumably due to continued braking. Noticeable continuation of braking when trailbraking into a corner (ok sometimes I'm a bit of a racer in a family car).
What concerns me is when the snow, ice or heavy rain comes back that I might find sudden instability if the brakes aren't releasing after slowing for a corner or that worse still I'm destined for total brake servo failure.
There are no ABS related error codes although in the ice and snow I did find that the ABS fired until the pedal raised stiff and all 4 wheels just locked up (that was a fun junction crossing).
I have noticed that the drainage ducts in the bulkhead are blocked but I've never had water enter the car so I don't think it's water in the brake servo although this could have happened prior to me owning it I guess.
Working theories:
Due to slave cylinder corrosion and calipers are releasing slowly
Due to brake servo fault - either water ingress of vacuum leak
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In the morning when I back down the driveway with slight braking, the brakes make a loud hollow squeaky sound in a tunnel. The rear brakes were changed about 2 months ago.
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I just bought a new to me, 2005 ford f-350 6.0L turbo diesel with 220,000 miles. It has an EGR delete, and aftermarket intake and exhaust. I am having power loss issues, and cold start issues, and judging from these symptoms, I figured it was the FICM. I thought it had to be the FICM. As per the tech folder on this site, I tested the FICM. I first learned that I have one of the Bullet proof FICM's, and when I tested it (3 times) it read between 57.5 and 58V. I conducted this test three times both with just turning the key, and with the truck running. I then took the truck into Ford, and they gave me a list of all of the codes the truck threw:
P0611
p0113
p0405
p0671
p0673
p0675
p0677
p0341
I researched all of these codes, and it seems to point to the FICM, but Ford stated they pulled a reading of 54.5v. The tech then told me that the upgraded bullet proof FICM probably ruined my injectors, because my injectors we not upgraded. Is this True?
Even though my FICM is above the low limit for voltage, can it still be going out? I am taking the truck in to have the batteries load tested, so I will know if they are contributing to my FICM failing.
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Can't find a thing wrong with it, no codes. Runs great down the street but backing out of the garage from cold start, it barely runs.
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Our temps have hit into the -18 to -25 Celsius... I have noticed that on 3 different occasions now that the truck feels like its locked in 4wd when I reverse out of my drive way.My Truck is an F250 Crewcab with 4800 miles
This all started with the cold weather. At first I thought my 2 yr old was turning switches on while he was up front one time, but it happended again the following morning taking my 5yr old to school...
I back up up about 20 feet and then make a fairly sharp 90 degree turn and then all the way down the driveway to the street...its really noticeably on the 90 degree turn..once I turn to go forward it still seems jerky...same as having 4wd engaged on dry surface while turning..
After a little bit of driving it seems to go away...also keep in my mind that the 4wd switch has never been touched at anytime at all...we have a lightly snow packed driveway but my traction is still fine to where 2 wd is all that's needed
Could it be something in the rear diff "catching and releasing" for lack of a better term ?
Locker issues, clutchpacks...?
As I am typing I also remembered making a right hand turn on dry pavement and it felt like the rear end slipped a bit and then caught again, much the same way it would fell as if you hat one tire on a small patch of ice and slipped as ya took off and then caught as it hit the dry pavement...
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Driving 30 mph, oil light came on, immediate loss of power braking and steering. Engine did not stop, oil light disappeared yet still had loss of power steering and brakes. Still in D. Policeman had to stand on brake pedal to get into Park so that engine could be turned off. Towed to dealer in next state and dealer said cannot replicate so cannot fix.
Car is 2012 Santa Fe w/ less than 6,000 miles on it.
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When I leave the car in the parking space for a couple of days (in cold weather) and then start driving it, I notice that when I brake I hear noises (like thud.. thud...). Eventually as the engine warms up the noise goes away. I can never reproduce this at the dealer as I have to drive half an hour to the dealer and by that time the noise goes away. Should I be concerned?
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I have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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I was driving my 1999 F250 5.4 Triton last week, after noticing a thump while backing my small boat down the ramp (sounded like u joint) I went and parked. When I got back in the truck it starts fine but when I shift into reverse, it's staying in drive, anywhere I put my shift lever..... It's in drive! I even noticed that even all the way up into park it feels like it's in drive, but with something holding it back. If I give it gas while in park it will go forward! I have tightened the two torx screws under dash, pulled cable off and tried shifting by hand (clicks like switching gears, but still in drive) pulled pan, everything looked good there, fluid is nice and red, smells good, no metal in pan? It's the 4r100od tranny.
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I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
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I have a ford fiesta that first of all started off stuttering/loss of power and now wont stay running when the engine is cold ...... 1.4 54 plate ....
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A few days ago I posted a thread about losing power on a steep hill climb with a cold engine. I replaced the hybrid battery and all seemed well. A few days later, the problem occurred again--bummer. (The car has 120K miles and has spent most of its life in a hot and mountainous environment, and I knew the hybrid battery was failing, so that's not a problem.)
The car starts the climb OK, gains a few hundred feet in elevation, still has some charge left in the hybrid battery, then loses power, surges a couple of times, then comes to stop. The engine continues to run at idle and I get no warning or check engine lights. The "ready" light stays on. This time, the second time it happened, I turned off the car, turned it back on again immediately, and all was well. The remainder of the 1000' climb went fine. As did several other similar climbs on the same drive. Since then I've climbed this hill with a cold engine without a problem, so it's intermittent.
I hesitate to pay Toyota for a code scan since the check engine light did not come on. Should I do this anyway? My local auto parts store will scan for free, but I know that their scanner will not read Toyota-specific codes, just industry standards.
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1997 F150 4X4 4.6 engine with 285,000 miles
Truck was running perfect down the road, then suddenly it lost power and started missing at all RPM ranges. So i keep driving another 6 miles and then POOF the miss is gone and truck runs perfect. Couple hours later i hop back in it and its running good and then suddenly it starts missing and loosing power again except this time it never started running good again. Never did throw a CEL.
I hooked up my SCT Tuner (for my F250) to check for codes and came up with P0171 which indicated one of the banks was running lean, but no missfire codes. Did a search on here and learned the common problems(vacum leak) of that code.
Found the vacum leak at the PVC elbow, so i replaced both ends of the plastic tube.
Pulled the throttle body elbow and cleaned out the clogged up EGR ports.
Put a new air filter in and took the MAF out and cleaned it with MAF cleaner.
Put it back together and it idled way better but still ran like crap with the bad miss/sputter. Ran it down the road a few miles and came back thinking of the catalytic converter, i crawled underneath and it was glowing red. It does run and feel like the converter is stopped up but if i have a dead miss and dumping fuel wouldnt that make it glow red to or no? Still no CEL and now no codes.
Also i held the engine at about 1000 rpms where i could here the miss good and unplugged the fuel injectors one at a time to see if that made a difference. Each one i unplugged made it miss worse, so wouldnt that tell me that all 8 cylinders are firing?
And i changed the spark plugs (motorcraft) 250 miles ago.
So it still cranks and runs smooth after a cold soak overnight and then after a mile of driving or less it starts the dead miss/sputter and loss of power.
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So loss power on take off and then stopped at store quick shut it down. Came out of store ten minutes later no start just turns over and over. I replaced IPR last year the one on passenger side near frame if that's correct and perhaps this is the ICP near back of engine?
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I have a Ford F250 Diesel, 6.0. On my way home on Sunday, it lost a lot of its power. It took several minutes for it to get up to speed on the freeway. I drove it home, restarted it, and drove it 5 minutes away. it still lacked any guts, but about an hour later when i went to start it, it would not start at all. What it could be?
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I am having issues with loss of power, feels like engine is not getting air. Wondering if their are any fixes or tests I could attempt myself. Car facts:
2007 b6 2.0t .... 107,xxx miles
Have not cleaned intake manifold yet - on my to do list
P-flo intake (thinking of changing/ changing filter
Can follower/timing belt serviced recently
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2001.5 V6 Tiptronic ... A few times in the last couple of months I've felt what I think is a quick lapse in power, like 1 sec. or less. I say "think" because sometimes a bump in the road, traction related, or some other perceived issue can feel strange, especially when cruising along on a smooth cruise-controlled drive.
Each time this has occurred I've been in cruise control, freeway driving, relatively low speeds (65 MPH) . No other signs of anything wrong, chimes, flickering lights, vibration, nothing.
I can't be sure this time around but it seems in the past it's been on the same stretch of freeway, perhaps the same spot. In other words perhaps just a subtle anomaly in the road ...
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My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T manual transmission is experiencing loss of power/hesitation during acceleration. Occasionally the check engine light will blink for about 10 seconds during this time. My valve cover gasket blew about 7 months ago. I had it replaced along with 2 ignition coils. Since then I have had replaced the other 2 coils and spark plugs because of this recurring problem. I have also replace the mass airflow sensor for the second time. The diagnostic check continually shows misfires in different cylinders for which I again tried replacing the coils. I have also received the codes for "fuel mixture too lean" as well as for too rich. What could be causing this?
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