Passat (B7) :: At A Stop With AC On, Car Stumbles
May 23, 2012
My partner's SEL (not Premium) with 2.5L sometimes stumbles/"hiccups" from a stop with the air conditioner on. For example, starting off at a traffic light. My partner now says it happens usually while sitting stopped with the ac on.. It's just a momentary hiccup-type thing, but the engine doesn't stop. I have to say, I've ridden in the car with him quite a bit in traffic and it hasn't done that while I've been in the car.
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1989 Chevy Corsica has lower than spec fuel pressure, but exhibits no problems under heavy acceleration at highway speeds (passing), so I'm not sure it's a problem (yet). When cold, seems fine. As warms up, starts to surge somewhat when driving around 30MPH and idles rough and stumbles when starting from a dead stop. No blink codes (except code 12) and no check engine light. I suspect a sensor, but which one(s)? Low fuel pressure or bad sensor?
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I have 57K miles on my 1.8t. It runs great except for the first start of the day. About half of the time, first thing in the morning it runs rough for the first 30 seconds. Like it is running on 2-3 cylinders. Then it sorts out and runs great the rest of the day. I took it to my dealer where they charged me $200 to replace the spark plugs. I would prefer to fix this myself if I can.
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Driving the 98 Passat this morning everything fine. Then total loss of power, give it any gas and it stumbles and almost dies. Idles fine, can rev it in park or nuetral. Starts and idles fine, give it gas and it starts to move thens just dies down. If leave foot on accelerator, will move at idle pace but stumble with no power whatsoever. No "check engine" light. DOn't have a VAG tester but do have OBDII. Haven't checked if any stored codes. Will an OBD code be stored an not light up the CEL?
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After having finally taking the mod bait and flashing to stage 1 with no hardware changes a few weeks ago, I'm generally enjoying the newfound urgency that the car possesses, but I'm curious if some low rpm stumbling generally comes along for the ride? It is relatively minor and mostly occurs before the car is warmed up. Seems to be more prevalent in moderate throttle conditions between 2500-3000 rpm.
I have around 400 miles since the tune and wondering if this is something others have noticed as well. Do I perhaps need to give it a bit more time to "learn" or is this the way it is? I initially thought it was at least partly just more of a contrast showing up with the bigger power above 3k, but it is clearly a stumble some of the time, as if the car is choking a bit.
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My Venture LS is stumbling upon acceleration. It starts to occur around 35 mph and then continues with occasional smooth sailing. No rough idle and no stumble when coasting. I had the spark plugs and wires replaced at the dealer today and it did nothing. Fuel trim is fine, LT runs from 0 to - 5 . I replaced the MAF sensor a few months ago and all other sensors test OK on the scanner.
Also, I took my car to the dealership to have the plugs and wires replaced and they used the after market wires named Xact. I have never been to a dealer where they used aftermarket parts. I thought that they were required by GM to use their parts?
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The car takes off from a stop as it should. However, it shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd gear and that's when it stumbles and doesn't want to accelerate. It'll go if you press pedal at least halfway down. It runs great other than that. It only has 60k.
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My '07 seems to stumble when it's shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. At first I thought it was me as I spent the last six - seven years babying the tranny in my old Ford by 'lift shifting' but I've found it still does it somewhat when I'm accelerating and not letting off to let the car shift. Is this typical for the automatic in the Accent? I had the tranny serviced not 1,200 miles ago in June or July at Firestone and they assured me and showed me their fluid was compatible with SP III.
This happens especially when the car's cold or just warmed up. Seems to mostly but not completely go away after driving for a good half hour or so.
I've only got about a week or two left on the warranty but I also don't want to dump money into diagnostic fees if this is how these modern transmissions behave.
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I'm trying to diagnose a stumbling condition in a Hyundai Elantra 2008 with 84,000 miles. Occasionally when driving between 25-40 MPH, the car will shudder/stumble - almost like the engine is trying to shut off. However, it keeps on driving after a few seconds.
I cleaned the throttle body - it was quite dirty - but the problem continues to occur.
I didn't see anything related on several searches.
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I just bought a used 2007 Hondai santa fe. 65K. Loved it until four times when I turn key to start the car 'stumbles'. Dealer finds nothing wrong. What I notice today is I did not have my foot on the brake. My 11 yr old Subaru started w/o (not good I know) so I developed a bad habit. So now I wonder if this is not a problem but rather a safety feature and I need to always have my foot on the brake at start.
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My girlfriend has a 2006 Suzuki Reno which is the hatchback version of the much more common Forenza. Mechanically they are the same car. I began to look into this car soon after I began dating her and realized it was simply a rebadged Daewoo product. I attacked the timing belt replacement early on as she had no idea when it was last changed. The old belt was all cracked up and in dire need of replacement when I did the job.
Since then it has just been a lot of small stuff, all things these cars or known for. We are now getting a new symptom. The car sometimes hesitates/stumbles when trying to maintain or gain speed at highway speeds, especially going uphill. There are no check engine lights and I have checked for pending codes. There are none. I figured a misfire would show up but no codes of any kind are present. There was an issue a while back with the evap system purge valve which I cleaned and reinstalled. I don't know if this could be the issue but it isn't throwing the P0496 code anymore like it was before I cleaned it.
These symptoms are very intermittent. She used to always put like 3 gallons of gas in the tank when it got near empty and never fill it up. I got frustrated and told her to fill it to the top at least every once in a while. The first time she did this these symptoms started. I wondered if she busted some varnish loose inside the tank that had not been in contact with fuel for some time. We put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank and it cleared up for a while but returned a few tanks later. It seemed to start as she was nearing the end of a tank and continued for a bit after the fill up.
I am getting the feeling this might be a fuel related issue and not the ignition system. I already looked to see if her fuel filter was replaceable and it is not. It is an in tank one that requires the tank be removed. I would do the fuel pump if I had to do this. My other thought is maybe the fuel pump is getting iffy. I am going to do a loaner tool on a fuel pressure gauge if this happens again as I am wondering about that. Also, I haven't looked into a fuel pressure regulator but that might be something to look into.
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Okay so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima 150k and the problem that I'm experiencing is that when the vehicle is in drive my foot on the brake for example at a red light and I have the AC on the engine will begin to stumble similar to a misfire however no check engine light will be displayed if I were to turn the AC off and sit at a red light in here with my foot on the brake the car idles fine and smooth the car currentl drives fine accelerates fine idles fine it's only when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and the car and in drive with the AC on that the engine stumbles accelerating or cruising any speed above idle with a/c the runs smooth its only at idle and the simple is not predictable it happens often but at random intervals
What I've done so far 1.5 years ago I put in iridium spark plugs Recently cleaned the throttle body its a electronic throttle body Fuel pump and filter were replace in March 2016I tested the alternator put a load on it to see if the engine would stumble but it didn't
My a/C blows cold air and everything in the car works.
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In the mornings my 6.8 gasser stumbles when started cold ('cold' could mean an overnight temperature of 50-70 degrees F). This stumble lasts anywhere from 2 - 5 seconds and then it revs on its own to ~1,500 rpm. I'm not giving it any throttle upon start-up. Other than this the truck runs fine (~110k miles on OEM engine). Any thoughts on what may be causing this?
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95 explorer 4.0l ohv. I go to take off and then come to a stop after about 10-15 feet, i just give it a little gas then lightly press the brake, rpm's drop to around 400-500 then back to normal. I have replaced:
IAC
MAF
Plugs & wires
Coil pack
intake manifold gaskets
fuel system cleaner
fuel filter
air filter
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I have a 1998 C1500 Silverado, with the 4.3 vortec engine, with 88k miles.
Upon initial acceleration the truck stumbles, sometimes even dies when taking off. I have had the codes read, and have gotten a P0102 and a P0404. I have swapped the MAF and EGR Valve out with a known good ones from the parts store; cleaned the throttle body; looked for vacuum lines that could be the problem but can't find anything.
I have even changed out the fuel filter since the engine sounds like it is starving.
Also, the transmission doesn't want to shift unless I let up on the acceleration pedal. I can get up to about 55 MPH and the RPMs sky rocket before it shifts, and the engine begins to ping before shifting.
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I own a 2003 Ford Ranger 4x4 Automatic with the 4.0l V6. I bought the truck a little over two years ago with 150k miles. The Engine had alway had a slightly rough idle and I never really noticed until a friend pointed it out at around 170k. Every time the pump engages after a short warm up period there is a distinct stumble in the engine, although it never stalls or trips a check engine light. I have replaced the spark plugs with four prong pre gapped Bosch platinum plugs and new plug wires as well. I have installed an Optima red top battery that tests at 1100cca and have tested the voltage draw when the AC engages and it only drops .2 volts from 14.48v to 14.24v. I thoroughly cleaned the MAF sensor and before changing plugs I ran a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner through the throttle body to clean out carbon deposits and dirty throttle body. The engine still stumbles. Yesterday at 182k I disconnected the low pressure switch on the AC pump and boom, smooth low idle with no stumble. What could be wrong with the AC pump that could cause this stumble in the engine?
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My van stumbles & hesitates when I am gradually accelerating up a hill. It does not happen if I accelerate quickly or on level ground. It only happens going up hills slowly. It can be very violent.
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I have a 2001 Accent, manual transmission 1.5L. The lady who had it before me overfilled it and stuffed the charcoal canister. She had this replaced, but when I bought it she reported that it still had a fuel issue immediately after refueling. She said it would stall and run rough and hesitate.
After I bought it I took it to refuel and confirmed the problem. I had read that the ECU may be trying to draw fuel through following refueling, but the new canister might be messing something up. She used to only drive it commuting distance in a city, so I took it for a long drive. Running at steady cruising state for a prolonged period seemed like a good idea, to allow any ECU learning. This partially fixed the problem! Now, most of the time, I can leave a fuel stop without a 20km drama before the car settles down, although the problem hasn't entirely gone away and it still does play up sometimes.
There's a more pressing problem which may or may not be related, however. When launching from idle, the engine goes through this 2-5 second hesitation of no power at all. If I rev up before letting the clutch out it's ok, but there's a certain minimum revs needed to avoid the problem. This is killing my clutch, and if I get it wrong it sometimes leaves me in the middle of a busy junction with no power for an uncomfortable period! During the hesitation, I've found the best way to force it is to put clutch back in and go full throttle. After 1 second or so the revs come back. The problem is much worse when the air conditioning is on.
So the clues are:
1. the previous charcoal canister issue
2. the full throttle thing might indicate something with the TPS
3. the worsening of the problem with the a/c on
Things I've tried so far...
1. prolonged cruising; seemed to improve things after refueling but overall fueling issues not fixed.
2. disconnected the battery -ve and applied brake light circuit to drain ECU capacitor, then left for any power-hold relays etc. then reconnected battery and took it for a normal drive for 30 minutes or so. No effect.
...and things I've yet to try (all gleaned from searching this forum)
1. checking / replacing plugs and HT leads
2. checking / replacing o2 sensor
3. checking the TPS plug connections. Checking the sensor itself sounds expensive - would it involve more than standard OBD?
4. checking vac hoses, in particular the hose which draws from the cannister
5. checking alternator (not sure how); the worsening of the problem with the a/c on could indicate low power getting to injectors etc? (bit of a wild guess)
In a former life I was a diesel engine calibration engineer, so I know the tricks which manufacturers can put into ECUs. What I don't know is the tricks specific to this car.
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1990 chevy silverado 4x4... My truck stumbles when you start it and within 5 seconds or so clears up and runs smooth.. I changed the fuel filter , still the same result.
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I have an '88 Dakota, 230K miles, with the following problem:For the last month or so, the truck has been hard to start--had to crank once, wait 10 seconds or so, then crank again. Gradually, this problem increased to the point where it would stumble at WOT, then even at 3/4 throttle or so.Thinking it was the fuel pump, I replaced it, along with the filter.
Problem remains; in fact, it seems even worse, to the point where the truck only idles (can't put any load on it, or it stumbles). So, at this point I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. However, I don't want to buy it unnecessarily. Given that a F.P.R. is designed to send a part of the pump output back, would pinching off part/all of the return line be a valid diagnostic test?Anything else that comes to mind?
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I am 2nd owner of 98 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V6SOHC. Vehicle is almost showroom condition w/ 70,000 miles and properly maintained.
Problem: engine seems to stumble quite frequently and is most noticeable when ambient temp is above 60*. Highway speeds , 40MPH doesn't matter. RPMS drop but it has completely shut down only twice in the last 9 months.
There are no codes. Plugs and wires changed several months ago, fuel pressure checked by Ford and it's ok, injectors cleaned at dealer, MAF seems ok so I am at a loss. Since there are no codes diagnostics don't work. Except for the issue above, this is a very nice reliable vehicle.
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