Passat (B7) :: Pronounced Rattle Coming From Somewhere Behind Instrument Cluster
Mar 1, 2014
I have a '13 TDI SE with about 27,000 miles. For the last three months (and especially when it's cold) there is a pronounced rattle coming from somewhere behind the instrument cluster. I left it with the dealer this week, but they couldn't seem to locate the problem. The service writer told me they had to order some foam backed adhesive tape from VW to fix it, but they neither seemed to really know the source or if the tape would correct it. What this might be? The sound is more toward a repeated clicking, but I can't for the life of me find the exact location.
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My dashboard has a rattle (surprise!) in the instrument cluster and today I have located the source of the noise. It comes from the right side of the hood piece over the dials. The right corner of the front edge of that hood rattles against the rest of the console. It can be fixed by applying a little piece of the electric tape or a piece of foam on the inside of that hood. I do want to go to the dealer and I'd prefer to fix such a minor problem by myself.
Looking for a schematic on how to take the dashboard apart? I wonder, why this dashboard hood consists of 2 pieces made of hard plastic attached without any padding? Of course, they will rattle!
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I recently traded my 2012 GS 350 for a 2015 GX 460. It's more my type of vehicle, and I am loving it except for a noise under the dashboard that seems to be somewhere behind the instrument cluster.
The noise is more of a ticking sound, and if I had to guess, it seems to be a wiring harness in that mesh-type wrapping that's moving around. I hear mostly over bumps in the road, but it also shifts when I accelerate from a stop. Unfortunately, the area where I'm hearing this is inaccessible without removing the dash.
Below is a link to a dash cam video I shot with the noise.
Lexus GX 460 Dash Rattle - YouTube
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Turned my lights on in my 2001 VW Passat and my instrument cluster lights are no longer working. The area showing MPG and Outside temp is functional but nothing else is. The lights for the radio, fan hazard sign etc are all fine.
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I have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
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I have a 2001 1.8t Passat that won't start. The story starts about 6 months ago with occasionally (maybe once a week) finding the clock and trip odometer reset. Figured It would eventually get better or worse. Then once last week I lost power to the instruments completely when driving, The tach and speedometer dropped to zero and returned to normal in a second. Yesterday on the way to work that happened again several times, but it never effected the drive-ability at all. After work , went to leave and the dash doesn't light up and is dead silent when turning the key even the clock and odometer are blank ,the Traction control light is the only response on the cluser. It won't crank, the power windows and sunroof also won't work. Most everything else is normal, blower motor, headlights and interior lights, blinkers, door locks, all work, radio powers on.
Here's what I've done so far. Removed the negative battery cable to see if a reset would work. No change. Checked every fuse I could find, no bad fuses. Replaced the Ignition switch, no change. Have 12.05 V on the red starter wire in the crank position. After replacing the ignition switch, the radio now displays SAFE --- 0001 and doesn't do anything else (not sure if that means anything). I have reseated all the relays under the hood, and under the dash. No change. Wiggled every part of the wiring harness I could get access to to see if that changed anything. No change.
I'm now expecting the solution to be the wiring to the CCM, the instrument cluster, or the CCM itself. Going to try push starting it tomorrow, If that fails I'll have it towed home and get back to taking things apart Friday night.
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These last few days I've been having issues at startup. Ill put the key into the ignition and it will just click once or twice without anything happening. Power to the radio and instrument cluster will get distributed but the engine wont turn. Then the other day the engine would turn on for a brief moment but turn off within ten seconds. Whats going on?
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I'm set on having the European parking light feature (when the car is parked and you walk away from it). For those of you not familiar with it, by changing the Instrument Cluster coding from a 2 (USA) to either a 1 or 4 (UK or Great Britain), you can turn the car off, hit the left turn signal assuming you are parked on the right side of the street, and after getting out and locking it the 194 amber front bulb and the LED red rear ring stays on. This aids in traffic seeing your car parked on the side of the road.
Problem is that once you change the country, you get this in the ABS Module:
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3C0-614-095-C2.clb
Control Module Part Number: 3C0 614 095 S HW: 3C0 614 095 S
Component and/or Version: ESP 440 C2 H015 0004
Software Coding: 0013752
[Code] ....
What changes need to be made in this module to avoid this? The pop-up window in the coding section doesn't say anything about different countries so I'm not sure which numbers need changed.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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Need to know if the little icons on your interior 'dome' lights illuminate red when your instrument cluster lights are on? (Just like the power window and dash vent icons..) Audis do, but I've never seen a W8 Passat at night to be able to tell.
Looking for a pic of your interior roof lighting? (Not the center console one near the sunroof control...that of course lights up and shows icons.) I'm looking for the ones towards the rear of the car.
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2012 Golf 2.5L, 2 months old, ~6,000km
There's a pronounced rattling sound coming from the front passenger area (I think), and you can hear it when the radio is playing. I booked an appointment at the local dealership, but the appointment was just cancelled because an "interior technician" is not available on weekends. Not only that, they said I may have to leave the vehicle at the dealership overnight, and that no courtesy car would be provided. Personally, I think that's complete BS - you don't need a P.Eng to diagnose a rattle, and what dealership doesn't have a courtesy car?
So, I'm curious to know if others have experienced anything similar, and if they've had any luck correcting interior rattles. I previously had a minor clicking sound in the overhead console area (bluetooth, lights, etc.), but that was quickly fixed at a different dealership.
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Just had our '04 Odyssey with 162K miles to the Honda dealer to have some maintenance work done. Had cabin filter replaced for first time. Out of the service area, I started the engine fine, turned on heat/a-c, adjusting fan speed to high. There's a pronounced hummer noise coming from under the dash near the blower. It's a constant hum, not something associated with some debris that may have been dislodged or floated down into the blower area. The "pitch" of the hum increases/decreases with the blower fan speed. Service personnel came out, to include the manager, and they exposed the area where the filter was replaced; nothing out of place or loose.
Told me I could schedule another appointment to have them clean out the area inside where the filter and blower are located. Told them that service should be provided as a part of the filter replacement if it could be a concern. Although I'm not a car-savvy person, I'm thinking the problem is due to replacing the cabin filter: new filter, increased air flow (and there is a substantial increase of airflow out of the dash ducts) to the fan blower -- which as been operated with a dirty filter for probably a lot of miles and it has "worn" just right, that the increase in airflow is causing the hum. Fan blower spinning faster causing the hum?
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With DRLs enabled and a Euro switch in Auto, I get HIDs, city lights and side markers during the day - no DRL indicator on instrument cluster.. With switch in Off, I get only HIDs, but with DRL indicator lit. In Auto I expected only HIDs as DRL and DRL indicator lit. No city lights or sides.
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The speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, battery meter, temp gauge and idiot lights went out. The car works fine. Dash is just dead. I did a quick look at the fuses in the glove box but it doesn't have the little card to tell fuse locations. So, I can't narrow it down but I don't see any blown fuses.
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Just wondering how to remove instrument cluster?
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This has been a wonderful car to say the least. Has about 150K on it and it drives like a champ. Recently the instrument cluster went out, sometimes it will randomly work but 9/10 times it's off. When I used it to jump start another car the instrument cluster began working almost instantly, although this was only temporary. When the temperatures are low as they are on the northern east-coast right now around 30ยบ and lower (shivers) it will work. Why is this? does anything to do with the battery having to work harder?
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My instrument cluster panel went out. I bought one on ebay and I would like to replace it myself. Is there a step by step video or a diagram that will show me how to take the dashboard off?
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The instrument panel on my Prius (speedometer, fuel gauge, etc. on the dash) keeps going out intermittently. Took it to the Toyota place and of course the lights were back on.
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I just noticed the other day that part of my instrument cluster is darker than the rest. Everything is nice and bright however my 0-20mpg area isn't as bright as the rest of my cluster.
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I have an issue where the instrument cluster (tach, spedo, fuel, temp, door open indicator, etc) and AC stop working. It only happens under the following conditions and can be reproduced easily. All fuses have been check and are OK.
1.No Gauges
2.Remove and replace Multi-Fuse 20 (which is new and good)
3.Gauges and AC start working again
4.Drive car or start etc. and everything works fine
5.Power off car for exactly 1 min. or more with doors closed
6.Start car and no gauges or AC again
7.If wait less than 1 min. (tested 30 sec. to 59 sec. ) to restart the car and all gauges and AC continue to work fine
Where to start diagnosing.
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I just noticed the other day that one part of my cluster is darker than the rest. my 0mph-25mph is the dimmest part of the entire cluster. I do know that these clusters are LED illuminated, but wanted to know if taking the cluster apart and what the replacement of this LED all consisted of.
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