Phaeton :: Outside Temperature Gauge And Park Distance System Not Working
Jun 12, 2016
The outside temperature gauge and park distance system on my Phaeton isn't working. In place of the temperature reading on the dash it just says --.-C I've had it scanned at my local Bosch diagnostic garage and it showed a fault on all six front parking sensors. I can't recall whether he mentioned the temperature sensor as well but I put a new one on anyway as they are cheap and easy to get at. It made no difference. They were very busy so didn't have an opportunity to do any further investigation or dis-assembly and I was in no rush so am taking it back next week.
I have checked the two block connectors which the wires from the parking sensors and temperature sensors go in to and that seems properly connected. Is there another connector somewhere or is there a fuse that protects these somewhere as there isn't a fuse described in the manual as being related to these?
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After owning my Phaeton for over two years and never seeing the temperature gauge move past the 200 degree mark, I was surprised to see it start to fluctuate on my ride home from Michigan today.
It went up to around 240 then back to 220 and continued between those two for the duration of the 3 hour drive. I know those temperatures are within the safe range but was wondering if it would have continued to rise if I had been driving on a longer trip. Right now I have the hood opened and am waiting for the engine to cool down before checking the coolant level.
This car has operated flawlessly for me and I think a visit to the VW service department is in order prior to the warranty expiration just to have a good look at all the possible issues that might pop up! Even though I have a CPO for another 2 years, I'd prefer not to have to find out what isn't covered in a pinch.
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2003 Chevy Malibu 3.1 temperature gauge stopped working last night, this morning having trouble starting, no check engine light fans do turn on have heat, replaced the coolant temperature sensor but gauge still not working?
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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My sister drives a 2005 Nissan Altima. I am not real familiar with Japanese OEMs but I do most of my own repair work on my car (which currently has issues of its own). What's wrong and how do I go about making the repair...
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I borrowed a friend's small Toyota truck for a few days of easy chores, and made a point to check the fuel at the beginning: the gauge showed 3/4 full. Four days and only 25 miles later, when I got in to return it, I noticed the fuel gauge was not working, I'm certain there's no fuel leak, I would have noticed that: the truck had been parked on my property the entire time, driven only a few hundred feet from one spot to another moving firewood around, so I would have smelled the gas if there was a leak.
When I added a couple gallons of fuel, the gauge didn't budge. Once on the road, I realized that the engine temperature gauge was also dead - no change on the gauge after 10 miles. So I have two non-functioning gauges which failed on my watch. This may not be directly my fault, but as my friend is kind enough to lend the truck whenever I need it, my contribution is to provide maintenance.
Is there anything in common between the two gauges which would explain the synchronized failure? Or is this total coincidence? This one is outside my experience, so don't know where to start. It's a 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual, base model truck, about 150k, generally runs just fine. There are no other gauges, and I don't recall what warning lights there might be, but I didn't see any after I realized there was a problem. Would the whole instrument cluster die at once, or could this be something like a bad ground for the cluster? I don't mind investing effort into tracking down and solving a problem, but if it needs a new cluster, that will cost more than I'd like to contribute, yet the problem occurred while I was using the truck (gently). My total use of this truck for all the times I've borrowed it is certainly less than 300 miles, so I'm reluctant to fund the entire repair if this is something that just comes with age.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with about 107500 kms on it (VIN: 1GMDX03E24D183870) and the coolant temperature gauge is not working properly. Sometimes when I start my van, the temp gauge is pinned at MAX temp and stays there the whole trip...other times it's pinned at MIN temp...and other times it seems to work OK.
When it's pinned at MAX temp, I check the actual temp that the on-board computer is seeing, by using my OBDII scan tool...and I get about 87 degrees C when I'm halfway into my trip (i.e. - when the van is at operating temp), which seems OK. All the other analog gauges are working perfectly.
I read a lot about the issues with "connector C305" on the Internet on the Montana vans...could this be the problem?
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Having a problem with my temperature gauge inside the truck. No matter how far or long I drive, the needle barely moves off of cold. Would the thermostat be the likely suspect? If not, what else could it be? There is no "check engine" light on and my ODB2 reader reads a temp of around 70c solid. If it is the thermostat, where is this part located in the car and would I need to replace JUST the thermostat or are there gaskets/housing-type things involved as well.
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I have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connecter and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning. I've searched and searched without being able to narrow down a solution.
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I have a 1992 Aerostar 3.0L end my temperature gauge on the dash doesn't move at all. Stays all the way to the left. I read on other forums that to make sure the gauge and the wiring are ok, i need to connect the wire that goes to the sensor unit to the negative of the battery. Gauge should go all the way to hot when the ignition switch is put to on position. That was exactly my results. So, i replaced the temp sensor unit but still gauge doesn't move. I didn't use any sealant on the threads when i installed the sensor. Connector looks ok. The engine warms up fine. I really don't know what else to think or do.
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Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
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Basically my coolant temperature gauge either reads as the hottest it can be, or the coldest. It doesn't jump around a whole bunch, but it's always all the way to one end or the other. From what I've read there seems to be a lot of different temperature sensors, so I get a little confused with all of the abbreviations, but I'm fairly certain I checked the correct one, next to the thermostat housing.
Using a multimeter I checked the resistance of the sensor, and it was around 600 ohms about 30 minutes after it had been driven. I'm not sure if this is where it should be or not, but it was rising as the truck cooled off.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I just tested the sensor incorrectly or if there could be another issue. A friend of mine suggested that the thermostat may have gotten stuck or something, but it doesn't seem like the gauge would switch at all if that were the case. What I should check to try and fix this.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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How to recode in gateway park assist because someone in the service I thought didin;t mark this option and now I didn't have got pdc in my car even though that I have physically this module in my car and formerly it was working. And another question is : Is it possible to close a windows and sunroof from the key remote control for example when I close my car I want that all windows will close automatic when I press the unlock button on key....
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I am having some issues with the distance to empty gauge. Every time I've filled up the car it has say approx. 550 miles (when tank is completely full)..
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This has been happening consistently where the trip gauge on low fuel goes from 40miles to zero mile in a matter of seconds. I've never seen where it goes through the gradual process 30->20>10 > 0.
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The summer has come and the ADR's radar overheats. I receive a massage : DEFECTIVE! . All cruise control functions are disabled. That means I don't have cruise control in the summer, Too bad. I just want to know if it is possible to deactivate ADR while keeping the regular cruise control on using VAG-COM without any hardware change.
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I had a 2006 Corolla S 1.8L automatic with 232,000+ miles that was taken away too early by two other cars making a sandwich out of it. It was still getting 32 -37 mpg consistently and about 370 - 390 miles per tank at least before I'd look for gas. I just replaced it with a '13 Corolla S 1.8L automatic and average out near 28 - 32 mpg (but it's winter). My issue is the readout on the gauges. I've got a 120 mile round trip for work daily (all highway). On the way home yesterday, gauge showed 1/4 tank and distance said 85 miles (enough to get home).
At about 26 miles left, yellow light came on. At gas station 19 miles left til empty (or so I thought), yellow light shut off and gas gauge went back up slightly off E. Filled her up and it only took 10.2 gallons after topping it off a couple times after the pump shut off. Distance traveled was about 320 miles on that tank so around 32 mpg. I'm o.k. with that but I thought these had the 13 gallon tank like my '06? Were there still 3 gallons in there and the sending unit may be bad or am I missing something? BTW car only has about 6600 miles on it as of right now.
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I've had a Phaeton since January and love it. I noticed yesterday that the "distance remaining" figure in the small nav screen in the instrument cluster has disappeared: it now shows "---" instead of, say, "150 mi." Refilling the gas tank hasn't made a difference. Why the car has started refusing to estimate? Since that's the display that shows all the time while driving, it's particularly noticeable.
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Everything was working fine until I started messing with camera settings in the service menu today . Now when I shift into reverse, it says "system not ready". Will not let me parallel park or reverse park now. I tried to reset the settings but maybe I don't know how to "save" settings.
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I've recently purchased a MY2004 V10 TDI (one previous owner) and I'm very happy with it. When I press the VEHICLE button below the center console screen, a message appears stating 'Tire pressure monitoring system not available'.
I really hate having buttons that don't 'do' anything, so I'd like to know if the TPMS is simply an option my car doesn't have or if it is equipped with the system but the sensors are malfunctioning. I've tried pressing the button at different times (cold start, after driving etc.) but it always says the same thing.
If my car doesn't have this system, is it possible to retrofit it and would that be expensive?
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