Phaeton :: Sound System Unresponsive To Volume Control Changes
Mar 4, 2007
Our Phaeton sound system, and the OnStar, seeming to work but with no audible volume and no response to volume control changes. I fiddled with the AM, FM, CD, OnStar and it all seemed to be working OK (it was possible to change CDs, change CD tracks, change radio stations, etc), except there was no volume from the system at all, and no response to volume increase attempts.
I tried shutting down and restarting the car - and then shutting down followed by the two key twists to the left, and then a restart - all to no effect. I later turned off the car for about ten minutes and when the car restarted, the sound system was back to normal again.
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For some reason this more there is no sound coming out of my car. This includes phone, radio everything. Also the volume control on the steering wheel seems to be frozen, it does nothing when you hit up or down.
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I have a 2012 toyota camry with the JBL system. i replaced one of my factory door woofers with a aftermarket one. i cranked the volume up to the loudest, and then suddenly all the sounds going to all my speakers went dead.
I tried checking all the fuses that i saw said "Audio system" in both my engine bay and my driver instrument. Nothing was burnt out. even tried disconnecting the battery.
When i try to turn up or turn down the volume, no numbers show up. (showing which volume setting its at) its just blank.
Even tried the steering wheel volume control. I really don't know what else to check.
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I have a 2004 VW Phaeton.
Today, the sound system failed, then shortly after, the navigation system failed.
On the console, if I press any map/navigation buttons, the error message "Navigation System Unavailable" is displayed.
If I press an audio related button, the error message "DSP system is unavailable". I took it to a private vw repair shop and a vw dealer. What was causing the issue.
I am now headed to a vw dealer with certified phaeton tech. I looked towards fuse issue, but they appear to be ok..
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2004 VW Paeton V8
Parked, heavy rain all day..6pm time to leave work. Key less entry un-responsive, manually unlocked driver side door. Triggered alarm. remote unresponsive, had to pull fuse on horn,Christ thats loud!! both front carpets water soaked...Dash displays "imobl active" tried ignition, No start, key now locked in ignition.
Transmission locked, wheels locked. smell of electrical from the engine compartment.(vehicle tried to start on its own 4 or 5 times as i stood outside the car..??).. I had the car towed to the nearest VW dealer, rented a car to get home 2.5 hours drive away. The dealer calls 2 days later saying they cant access the trunk they need me to send the extra keys...
Obviously water damaged electrical but what? The dealership hasn't diagnosed it yet, but i am trying to get some insight of what is damaged ...
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I have a Galaxy S5 (Android 5.0) phone that I've paired with my 2014.5 Camry SE and it generally works fine for playing audio, making calls, etc. But I've found that if I turn the car off while Bluetooth is connected, and then come back to the car shortly after, my phone is basically locked/frozen for a couple of minutes. The bluetooth connection light shows up on the Camry touch screen and I can select and play other audio inputs, but my phone is completely unresponsive and for all intents and purposes looks like it's shut off. After 2-3 minutes the phone will reboot itself and after it starts back up I'll get the 'Phone disconnected' on the audio system touch screen. At that point I can unlock the phone, re-enable Bluetooth and it connects/works fine with the car.
I originally thought it was a problem with the phone, but after some hard/factory resets and OS updates, it still does the same thing. Additionally, I cannot recreate the issue with the phone when it is paired with our other car (Honda Pilot) if I replicate the same sequence of events, so I'm assuming it's something to do with the Camry's bluetooth/audio system.
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So i've been having weird audio issues that seem to happen at random (three times in the past month), and have different symptoms. They all result in no sound coming from the speakers, however everything else functions properly. I can even switch audio sources and different tracks, but the audio system won't turn off and the volume won't change when changed on the steering wheel controls or by turning the knob. The first time this happened when i tried to turn off loudness and screen popped up that said the audio system was unavailable, this did not happen the second time. The problem fixes itself, when i turn off the engine take out the key and lock the car, and then start the engine again, it does not fix the problem. Only after i finish running the errand or park it in the garage does it function the next time i start the car up.
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I have a 2007 subaru outback ll bean addition with 67,000 miles. For the past year and a half my gas pedal has intermittently become unresponsive. The engine is running just fine but the check engine light and cruise control light start blinking and boom-no gas. After turning off the engine, the car won't start until the gas pedal has magically started working again. The dash lights continue to blink for several starts but then stop.
Prior to this problem, I have noticed that sometimes the console lights for the radio and AC blink and sometimes go dark at which point the controls are ineffective. As if this wasn't enough, just yesterday when trying to start the car, the engine was having trouble turning over with a rapid clicking noise. It eventually started but now the seat belt buckle alarm is out of whack and the speedometer displays "ER U1."
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The lower loudspeaker in the driver's door gurgles. As usual with these things it is hard to describe the sound. There is some echo; it's a bit like reception from a weak radio signal. I thought it might be a speaker fault and was ready to book her in for a new one when I found that the fault is intermittent. All other speakers are fine.
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We continue to be delighted with our 2008 V8, it's like having wings. I drove to England across France from Switzerland for 100 kms recently, had a wonderful day there and back. But when I play our iPod with WAV files through the sound system there is some distortion on loud notes, even at low volume. Strangely, when a young friend attached his iPod and then replaced mine, it did not distort. There is no distortion when using the CD changer or the Hard disk drive, but I prefer the large choice and full files on the iPod, given the great quality of the standard sound system. Now the sound distorts again when playing music on the iPod, and even if i detach the cable and replace it any number of times there is little difference.
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My 2009 F350 cruise control has never worked since I bought it used and I'm trying to get it fixed without a trip to the dealer but to no avail unfortunately. I have replaced the cruise control switch on the master cylinder and I checked every fuse connected to the brake system and the brake switch works as far as I can tell. I also tried the diagnostic check where you turn the truck on while holding the off button on the cruise control but the cruise light never flashes. I also thought maybe it was the clock spring or the connection in the steering column being loose but the clock spring makes no noise and the horn and airbag all checkout so I'm at a loss.
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Have an early 2004 US Phaeton with the smaller sound system. Everything works normally on the system, but when putting some commercial CD's into the player can yield some really nasty clipping (clicking on drum-beats or other high-frequency sound) on the loudest sections. The clipping only occurs on the loudest sections, irrespective of how high the volume control is, and it only occurs when listening to the CD.
This is either a defect in the digital/analog converter in my particular unit, or it's a design defect with the whole series. For techies, the highest bit (#15) in the D/A is feeding an overload signal into the analog path of both channels. This symptom also could occur on CD's you burn yourself if you tend to record your CD's really loud (right up to the limit of CD dynamic range).
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2000 Honda Odyssey - from inside the van, we have a rattle sound that seems to come from the climate control system. Leaves have been cleaned out, rattle went away for 3-4 days then came back. Rattle is while system is on or off, warm or cold engine. Sound is like a hamster wheel or maybe boiling water.
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Just bought a used 2007 Passat 3.6L with 29K on it. Great car so far. However, I am wondering about a sound that is coming from inside the dash area. Sometimes when I am at idle, especially just after starting the car, I can hear what sounds like movement within the dash. I'm thinking that it must be the climate control system moving louvers, etc? It isn't constant, and really not all that bothersome. My wife at first thought there was a mouse inside! Is this something that others have noticed? Should I bring it in for inspection?
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I have a 2004 Phaeton that the main volume knob has broken on. The dealer tells me that the only way that they can provide a replacement is with the whole unit (nav screen and all) at a cost of over $2000. It seems to me that this part MUST be available somewhere for $20 or so.
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Noticed that sometimes the audio volume is zero when I turn on the ignition even though when the key was taken off after the previous drive, the volume was on.... Is there a "solution"....
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I am in the planning stages of installing / upgrading my X's sound system. This isn't the first time I've done an install like this before, but am running into a bit of trouble with the steering wheel controls.
I know there are options out there as far as interfacing, but my problem is finding the other harness. To be more specific, I know if I pull my radio out, there are 2 harnesses back there. One is the one you get the kit and splice the after market radio into the factory harness. EASY I Know.
Now, need a harness that plugs into the other plug? I'm not a fan of cutting/splicing into factory wires. Most of the steering wheel control kits just require you splice with 2-3 pins on that other Plug and you should be set. I'd really love to just have another adapter that plugs into that harness so I can connect what I need.
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A few days ago I noticed that the front tweeters were producing a low volume buzz whenever the HVAC blower is running.
Let me explain it: The HVAC system is in auto, I am listening to a CD track and the track finishes. At the very short period that it takes for the new track to play I can hear that distinctive buzz coming from the front tweeters. If I now turn off the blower and repeat the same sequence I cannot hear the buzz.
I would say that the buzz frequency is not correlated to the blower speed, but it is difficult to assess because of the increased volume of the blower at high speed.
I have checked the pins and the wiring at the amplifier connectors and they are all sound, so I am wondering if the smoothing capacitor that sits at the plenum chamber fuse box might be the culprit.
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My subwoofer volume control seems to have gone missing from the infotainment system menus and I'm not sure why. The standard bass, mid, treble controls are still there but the subwoofer menu item is gone. BTW, I can still feel the subwoofer kicking but I can no longer control the amount.
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I just installed the Nav system in my B6 but can't seem to get the volume adjusted correctly for the Nav. I have an Avura previously and the radio would mute down when the navi instructions where on. I found the audio adjustments for the nav systems but can't find anyplace to tell me what the adj are for.
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I have a 2010 package IV not 4 because it is a 2010 and only 2010 used uppercase roman numerals for model designation, with jbl non nav stereo. I have been having issues with the volume control not working so was looking into upgrading it to a a jbl with nav since I can get a good deal on the stereo and nav antenna. My question is will the existing wire harness support this and will a unit from a 2012-2013 fit a 2010?
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