Pontiac - Torrent :: 2008 FWD - Clanking Noise When Turned Wheel Sharply Almost Like Gears Slipping
Oct 9, 2014
For a little while I have been noticing an odd noise from the front driver side tire. About a year ago on two different occasions I heard a sound when I turned the wheel somewhat sharply that sounded like a clacking noise almost like gears slipping. It only happened for a few seconds and stopped but has never done it other than those 2 times that I am aware of. This is my wifes everyday driver, so I don't always hear the noises.
Recently it started making a sound that to me sounded very similar to a wheel bearing going bad. I looked into it a little and drove it and decided to change it even though it didn't have all the "symptoms" of a wheel bearing (louder when turning away from that side, quieter when turning towards that side, play in the wheel). After replacing the hub assembly it didnt make the same noise, but made a different noise that was from the shield on the back side of the rotor rubbing against it. Took it for a drive thinking that I fixed it only to have it start doing it again. After listening closer it sounded like a metal rubbing against metal sound, sorta like a brake pad dragging on a grooved or rusty rotor. I inspected the rotor and all i saw as an issue was on the inner side of it there was a ring of rust on the inner and outer edges, and it was wearing the pad to have beveled edges. I replace the pads and rotor, and it still makes the sound.
I am down to two options that I can think of trying but do not want to really try either one because of the amount of money I have already put into it.
1) I have thought about replacing the brake caliper.
2) I have thought about replacing the CV Axle, BUT the boots are in excellent shape.
It doesn't make the noise all the time, and sometimes it is worse when turning to the right, and other times there is no change regardless of the direction you turn. When it does do it, it feels almost as if the car is dragging and pulls to the drivers side.
I am really at a loss here and don't want to keep narrowing it down because I have misdiagnosed the problem twice now, and was really confident in it being the wheel bearing.
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About two weeks ago my wife's 2006 Pontiac Torrent's fuel pump went out. We had it replaced (costly repair) and two weeks later the car doesn't start again. Cranks but does not turn over/ turn on, which is exactly what it was doing before we changed the fuel pump.
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my 1992 BMW 3-series makes a horrible noise when I turn the wheel sharply in either direction. the noise however gets better as the car warms up, and after half an hour of driving has gone away. if I turn the engine off for an hour and start it up again, the noise is back. my sister think it's the steering column. my brother-in-law thinks it's the power steering pump, or some kind of really complicated switch to do with RPM that I don't understand.
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The low beam headlights on my 2007 Pontiac Torrent have been working intermittently for several months. Sometimes they will automatically turn on like they are supposed to, other times they will not and I will try to manually turn them on- sometimes it works, other times I have to use the high beams. I had the lever replaced, but it did not fix the problem. My boyfriend tried to track down the problem and removed the fuse panel completely from the car, didn't see anything that stood out, so he put the right back. After he put it back, the car would not start.
The radio works, the interior lights work, but when you try to turn it over nothing happens. At all. I towed it to the mechanic a week ago on Monday and they said that it smelled like burnt electrical under the hood, but could not pinpoint the problem. They have now had my car for a week and the latest update they have given me was the car will not communicate with their testing equipment, so they think it is the computer, but they are not sure. They said that they are trying to find a replacement computer.
Does this sound like a computer problem? And if so, should it have taken them an entire week to try to diagnose? I am trying to be patient, but it feels like a week is a long time to have a car in the shop and I am still without a definite diagnosis or any estimation on how much it is going to cost to fix my car. Should I try to take it somewhere else?
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I have been having a mysterious problem with my 2007 Pontiac Torrent that apparently no one, not even GM, can diagnose. I have done great research on this problem, and although there seems to be many many folks with Stabilitrak/Traction Control message issues, none seem to be having the same problem I am having.
Problem: After driving my car about 10 minutes, the brake pedal gets progressively stiffer and the car itself is “heavier” (no other way to describe it). If I continue driving, the car will begin to make a low roaring sound, which will get louder and louder if I continue driving. The car also at this point will lose acceleration and it is very difficult to make the car accelerate (that also makes the noise louder). A couple of times (luckily I was in my garage at home after driving), the car was stopped and when I tried to reverse, the car would not move at all.
When this problem first started (about 6 months ago), the Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control messages would come on, but I had a part replaced and that stopped (although the car was still having the same problem) until yesterday when those messages came on again. It has been four months since the messages stopped, yet the car was still having this problem during that time.
My remedy to this problem has been to pump the brakes each time I stop (I now take the highway instead of the interstate so that I can make enough stops to do this). I can go about 10 minutes before I have to stop, pump the brakes, and continue driving. This makes the stiffness in the brakes stop and keeps the car from making the noise and having the acceleration problems. The car runs fine as long as I do this.
During this six months, I have been to two different auto mechanics AND the local GMC dealer (at least four times). The parts that have been replaced are: right rear hub bearing assembly, EGR valve, rotors resurfaced, left rear caliper repaired, brake pressure modulator valve, and electronic brake control module. The dealership says they do not know what is causing this problem, and they claim they contacted the technicians at GM and they have never heard of this problem.
I feel this is a problem in the braking system. Something is getting hot the longer I drive and causing something to lock up the wheels, but not enough to stop the car entirely unless I continue driving. What stumps me is why does pumping the brakes work, and why are no service messages or warning lights coming on?
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I noticed this sound on Thursday, I couldn't replicate the issue at first, but it's getting worse. I can now replicate it almost any time I get into boost in a higher gear (4th, 5th mainly). Partial throttle, usually starts around 3,000 RPMs. Can't quite tell where it's coming from, but it's a bit concerning. I've got 16,000 miles on it with no mods (DSG gti). It'll be going to the dealer next week for sure, but what it could be? Kind of afraid to be driving it, but my dealer is closed until Monday and I wont be able to get over there until the afternoon.
Sound starts at about 6 seconds into the video (it's quiet, but you can hear it well if your volume is up), turbo starts spooling up at about 4 seconds. The car has a slight hesitation when the noise happens, but it's not violent. No CEL.
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06 f150 4x4 when locked in 4 hi or low front doesn't spin and there is a clanking..... not sure what to check first.... u joints look OK....
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The car is a 1997 pontiac sunfire 4 cyl 2.4L.When the car is turned on it makes a sound like the one in the mp3 file that I've attached. Some other symptoms I've noticed is a very slight loss of power while accelerating, and whenever I pull up to a stop and the engine gets into the idle rpm range (800-1000) the oil light comes on and the rpm dips to about 400 and sometimes the engine dies. The engine is also running very very hot, although I haven't driven the car in about 2 months and it's 100 degrees outside, not sure if that's related.
What I have tried so far is replacing the oil and filter, and adding 2/5 a pint of seafoam engine additive for 4 quarts of oil as per the instructions on the bottle. I did this because I suspected it was a stuck lifter, but after driving it for 30 miles with no improvement I'm starting to think otherwise.
As some of you may know I'm not entirely mechanically inclined and that's why I'm here, sometimes I get posts from people who insist I shouldn't be anywhere near an engine but let's try to keep those negative posts off my thread.
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My 2008 camry se is pulling hard to the left, even just taking my hands off the steering wheel for less then a second it will pull sharply to the left. why is that?
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2007 F250 4WD 5.4l ... when I turn sharply in either direction I am getting a light clunk sound similar to when you are in 4WD on blacktop and try turning. The engine also seems to wanna stall when I cut the wheel too sharp.
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This car has a V6 engine with 50000 miles. Nearly every time you turn the steering wheel you hear a clunk sounding noise. This has been going on for quite some time now. A mechanic said this is a common problem with this car. 2008 Pontiac G6....
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I have an early model year 2004 Touareg which has lately developed what appears to be a slipping problem when changing gears from 5th to 4th when decelerating or the same when accelerating strongly and downshifting. When switching over to tiptronic mode, its not clear if that apparent slipping goes away or changes. It definitely isn't as severe but that could be due to perception or the RPMs where the shifting is occurring.
The only real interesting characteristic of this clunk and lurch that is experienced is that it only happens when the car is warm -- I've been watching the transmission oil temperature, and it appears to start happening as it passes through 200 degrees. When it starts, the lurch/clunk is small and not too bad. As the car reaches temperature, it reaches if full lurch/clunk potential.
I have taken it to the dealer once and they have "upgraded software" that was supposed to clear up the problem, but did not.
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