About two weeks ago my wife's 2006 Pontiac Torrent's fuel pump went out. We had it replaced (costly repair) and two weeks later the car doesn't start again. Cranks but does not turn over/ turn on, which is exactly what it was doing before we changed the fuel pump.
View 1 RepliesI have 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD with front disc and rear drum brakes. My ABS & traction control lights come on together (sometime) when I hit brakes slowly to slow down my car around 20-30km/h with a grumbling/scraping feeling sent to my feet from brake pedal (feel like rumble strip on highway). ABS & T/C lights go away if I shut off engine and restart car. It also happens if I accelerate at that speed. This issue does not happen when I hit brake hard.
View 11 RepliesI just replaced the battery, and since then the electronic latch for the lift gate will no work. The only way I can get it opened is from the inside using the access hole and a screw driver. I have checked the fuse and it is good.
View 1 RepliesThe low beam headlights on my 2007 Pontiac Torrent have been working intermittently for several months. Sometimes they will automatically turn on like they are supposed to, other times they will not and I will try to manually turn them on- sometimes it works, other times I have to use the high beams. I had the lever replaced, but it did not fix the problem. My boyfriend tried to track down the problem and removed the fuse panel completely from the car, didn't see anything that stood out, so he put the right back. After he put it back, the car would not start.
The radio works, the interior lights work, but when you try to turn it over nothing happens. At all. I towed it to the mechanic a week ago on Monday and they said that it smelled like burnt electrical under the hood, but could not pinpoint the problem. They have now had my car for a week and the latest update they have given me was the car will not communicate with their testing equipment, so they think it is the computer, but they are not sure. They said that they are trying to find a replacement computer.
Does this sound like a computer problem? And if so, should it have taken them an entire week to try to diagnose? I am trying to be patient, but it feels like a week is a long time to have a car in the shop and I am still without a definite diagnosis or any estimation on how much it is going to cost to fix my car. Should I try to take it somewhere else?
I have been having a mysterious problem with my 2007 Pontiac Torrent that apparently no one, not even GM, can diagnose. I have done great research on this problem, and although there seems to be many many folks with Stabilitrak/Traction Control message issues, none seem to be having the same problem I am having.
Problem: After driving my car about 10 minutes, the brake pedal gets progressively stiffer and the car itself is “heavier” (no other way to describe it). If I continue driving, the car will begin to make a low roaring sound, which will get louder and louder if I continue driving. The car also at this point will lose acceleration and it is very difficult to make the car accelerate (that also makes the noise louder). A couple of times (luckily I was in my garage at home after driving), the car was stopped and when I tried to reverse, the car would not move at all.
When this problem first started (about 6 months ago), the Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control messages would come on, but I had a part replaced and that stopped (although the car was still having the same problem) until yesterday when those messages came on again. It has been four months since the messages stopped, yet the car was still having this problem during that time.
My remedy to this problem has been to pump the brakes each time I stop (I now take the highway instead of the interstate so that I can make enough stops to do this). I can go about 10 minutes before I have to stop, pump the brakes, and continue driving. This makes the stiffness in the brakes stop and keeps the car from making the noise and having the acceleration problems. The car runs fine as long as I do this.
During this six months, I have been to two different auto mechanics AND the local GMC dealer (at least four times). The parts that have been replaced are: right rear hub bearing assembly, EGR valve, rotors resurfaced, left rear caliper repaired, brake pressure modulator valve, and electronic brake control module. The dealership says they do not know what is causing this problem, and they claim they contacted the technicians at GM and they have never heard of this problem.
I feel this is a problem in the braking system. Something is getting hot the longer I drive and causing something to lock up the wheels, but not enough to stop the car entirely unless I continue driving. What stumps me is why does pumping the brakes work, and why are no service messages or warning lights coming on?
For a little while I have been noticing an odd noise from the front driver side tire. About a year ago on two different occasions I heard a sound when I turned the wheel somewhat sharply that sounded like a clacking noise almost like gears slipping. It only happened for a few seconds and stopped but has never done it other than those 2 times that I am aware of. This is my wifes everyday driver, so I don't always hear the noises.
Recently it started making a sound that to me sounded very similar to a wheel bearing going bad. I looked into it a little and drove it and decided to change it even though it didn't have all the "symptoms" of a wheel bearing (louder when turning away from that side, quieter when turning towards that side, play in the wheel). After replacing the hub assembly it didnt make the same noise, but made a different noise that was from the shield on the back side of the rotor rubbing against it. Took it for a drive thinking that I fixed it only to have it start doing it again. After listening closer it sounded like a metal rubbing against metal sound, sorta like a brake pad dragging on a grooved or rusty rotor. I inspected the rotor and all i saw as an issue was on the inner side of it there was a ring of rust on the inner and outer edges, and it was wearing the pad to have beveled edges. I replace the pads and rotor, and it still makes the sound.
I am down to two options that I can think of trying but do not want to really try either one because of the amount of money I have already put into it.
1) I have thought about replacing the brake caliper.
2) I have thought about replacing the CV Axle, BUT the boots are in excellent shape.
It doesn't make the noise all the time, and sometimes it is worse when turning to the right, and other times there is no change regardless of the direction you turn. When it does do it, it feels almost as if the car is dragging and pulls to the drivers side.
I am really at a loss here and don't want to keep narrowing it down because I have misdiagnosed the problem twice now, and was really confident in it being the wheel bearing.
Ok so I just bought this car, 1993 pontiac grand am se, from a neighbor. When I test drove it, the back seat was all unscrewed so I thought no biggie and it drove really nice for being a 1993. Ended up buying the car. I get the car home, husband puts seats back together and we go to leave for town and the fuel pump fuse blew. Put a new one in, go to start the car, fuse blows again! Tow the car home. Husband checks the wires to make sure there is no faulty wires. Has to reground the ground wire. Car then starts. Go to drive down my driveway and the dang fuse blew again! Mind you there is a new fuel pump in the car so we know this isn't what is wrong with it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 pontiac sunfire that will crank, but will only start when I hear the fuel pump running. My mechanict says that the fuel pump is not getting electricity. He is not an electric automotive mechanic, so what needs to be checked when the fuel pump is not getting electrical current. How do i fix it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 01 GrandAM 3.4. I have a reoccurring problem with this car. The car will randomly not start, and die while driving. Some days I can drive the car with no problems, and some days it will only have starting problems. These problems are very random. When the car doesn't start it will crank and turn over however the fuel pump will not kick in. You can turn the key on and off several times, and it will fire up. This DOES NOT seem to be a problem with the passlock theft system. The security light has never came on, and you do not have to wait any amount of time for the car to start, you only have to flip the key back and forth several times. The car after running will occasionally die, after the car dies it will usually start back up on the first try. I am very puzzled by this problem not sure if it is the ignition switch, fuel pump, or something in between.
View 19 RepliesFuel pump went out, took it to garage to have it fixed. Got it back...now I have no headlights, taillights, or dash lights. I have turn signals, break lights, and brights. I've checked fuses under the hood, and on both sides. Replaced them all twice just to be sure. I've changed the ignition switch and the multi-function switch. I'm at a loss!
View 3 RepliesWe have a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3.1L V6 TBI engine. Last Sunday evening it refused to start like someone left the transmission in Drive and the Park/Neutral switch was preventing it to start. There's the buzz sound from the fuel pump when you put the key on then nothing when you turn it to start the engine.
I checked the Park/Neutral swith by connecting an ALDL cable to the OBD port and it indicates correctly when I move the lever to Drive or Parking/Neutral. The only error code stored is "Fuel Pump Relay" but the Fuel Pump appear to be working?!
Battery is good, fuel pump fuse intact and the Park/Neutral switch appear to be working. How we can tackle this problem?
I'm fixing a 2007 Sonata that was in a front end collision, I've replaced everything that was ruined in the wreck (as far as I know), and also replaced the SRS control module, impact sensors, and also the airbag. The car starts with starting fluid and there isn't any damage to the engine so I'm not concerned with something being wrong with that, but the fuel pump won't prime and before the wreck it drove fine. So what could impede the fuel pump from priming? I've checked the wires and they're not sending power to the fuel pump so I feel like the pump should still be fine, it's just it's not getting power. What could cause this?
View 4 Replieswhere in my '06 Prius is the fuel pump located?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
The fuel pump fuse keeps blowing intermittently. I would assume it's a wire grounding out somewhere but I can't seem to find one yet. I do have a faulty purge solenoid on the canister but I don't think that would cause this. The reset switch doesn't seem to be tripped either.
View 3 Repliesok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
View 19 Replies2004 pontiac vibe GT, 6-speed standard, bought used, 120K miles. 5 weeks after ownership, car running very well, 16 year old driver driving at 60 mph in 5th gear, mistakedly downshifts into third..resulted in an immediate oil pump failure and cluth failure. No loss of oil, Oil pump came out literally in a dozen peices and looked like someone hit with a sledge hammer. Of course, no insurance coverage.Is this a normal response to high rpm event like this?
View 12 RepliesI have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
View 14 RepliesThis van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?