I have a 97 pontiac sunfire that will crank, but will only start when I hear the fuel pump running. My mechanict says that the fuel pump is not getting electricity. He is not an electric automotive mechanic, so what needs to be checked when the fuel pump is not getting electrical current. How do i fix it?
View 4 Repliesi have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire 2.2..i was coming home from work i heard a clicking sound coming from the motor then the car just died and it wont start back up.
View 10 RepliesMy car is an automatic 1997 pontiac sunfire SE. 2.4L. I drove into a parking space and the car would not shift out of drive into park, or any other gear. I called a tow truck and the guy said that the "link" had popped out of place and it needed to slip back in. He also said the high heat (it was 109 today) can warp the plastic to where it will not stay in. He showed me this link and popped it into place. I was able to get the car to shift from low to park and then to neutral but it popped out again. So I know it's not the transmission. My question is what is this "link" called so I can get a replacement for it.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire the other week I was driving and it stopped on me the engine would crank but quickly turn off but everything inside the car would still be on k was told I needed a new cat and got that and a new muffler put on. This morning I went to leave for work and the same thing happened again! I was told it could be the fuel pump or fuel filter but it doesn't act weird while driving it. What could this be?
View 1 RepliesAfter replacing my brake pads and shoes I am hearing a squealing noise coming from the area near my brake pedal. This noise sometimes becomes high pitched if I depress the brake too hard. I am also losing a little bit of brake fluid if I depress the pedal hard several times. The brakes themselves function fine and have no problem stopping. When I bled the brakes today some of the fluid was black. I figured it might be air in the system but after bleeding them it is still happening. I also replaced the bleeder screws.
1997 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L uses DOT 3 brake fluid.
When driving in any direction, my left front wheel makes a thumping noise. it's not the tires, i have brand new ones. i can feel the thumping in my gas pedal, and if i were to let go of the steering wheel, the car moves to the left really hard. i have had people tell me wheel bearings, and i have had people tell me warped rotor.
View 3 RepliesAbout two weeks ago my wife's 2006 Pontiac Torrent's fuel pump went out. We had it replaced (costly repair) and two weeks later the car doesn't start again. Cranks but does not turn over/ turn on, which is exactly what it was doing before we changed the fuel pump.
View 1 RepliesOk so I just bought this car, 1993 pontiac grand am se, from a neighbor. When I test drove it, the back seat was all unscrewed so I thought no biggie and it drove really nice for being a 1993. Ended up buying the car. I get the car home, husband puts seats back together and we go to leave for town and the fuel pump fuse blew. Put a new one in, go to start the car, fuse blows again! Tow the car home. Husband checks the wires to make sure there is no faulty wires. Has to reground the ground wire. Car then starts. Go to drive down my driveway and the dang fuse blew again! Mind you there is a new fuel pump in the car so we know this isn't what is wrong with it.
View 4 RepliesWent to drive my '02 Prius today and it is totally dead. I mean no electrical current at all. Dome light does not come on, nothing when I turn ignition - just no electricity. Was fine when I drove it yesterday. Even hooked up a jumper battery to the terminals in the trunk and there is still no power. At a loss as to what problem could be. Is there some fuse or relay I need to look at???
View 11 RepliesI have a 01 GrandAM 3.4. I have a reoccurring problem with this car. The car will randomly not start, and die while driving. Some days I can drive the car with no problems, and some days it will only have starting problems. These problems are very random. When the car doesn't start it will crank and turn over however the fuel pump will not kick in. You can turn the key on and off several times, and it will fire up. This DOES NOT seem to be a problem with the passlock theft system. The security light has never came on, and you do not have to wait any amount of time for the car to start, you only have to flip the key back and forth several times. The car after running will occasionally die, after the car dies it will usually start back up on the first try. I am very puzzled by this problem not sure if it is the ignition switch, fuel pump, or something in between.
View 19 RepliesSo my car keeps just dying while i'm driving..my car was running just fine until i got gas one morning and then started to sputter while i was driving and didn't want to accelerate very well...read a multiple misfire code when my check engine light was on..changed the coil packs and now isn't reading anything but now it takes a lot of cranks to get the car to start and while i am going down the road it will just die...normal engine dying lights will come on the dash when it dies..have changed the fuel filter..checked the catalytic convertor...checked plugs and wires..once in a while i do get a funny gas smell on the outside of my car but it's not leaking anywhere..checked the battery and still does it with a new battery..changed the fuel pump about 3 years ago..
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Jeep Liberty Sport 4X4 with 63,000 miles. There have been issues starting the car for about a year and a half.
It all started when a key was inserted into the ignition about a year and a half ago and a click would just be heard after the key was turned to the start position. Usually it started after the key was removed and inserted again. Sometimes it would take a few tries but most of the time it would start right up on the try one.
After 10 months, the battery was replaced after the vehicle had to be jump started. Shortly after, I had a Viper 5901 remote starter installed in the vehicle by a reputable store. The issue seemed to go away and thought the issue was fixed. The vehicle now was started from the remote control 90% of the time.
The issue started to become worse about 2 months ago. It would take more than 15 tries to start and to temporarily relieve the issue; it can be started on the 3rd or 4th try by rocking the vehicle. The starter was replaced two weeks ago by a reputable auto mechanic at my request. I went to a camp the day after for a week and most of the time it just sat in the hot sun except for short errands sporadically throughout the week.
I then went on a week vacation and the car sat in the driveway. I came back and the car didn’t have any power. The battery read 1.2 volts. It was jump started and then I went to work. At the end of the work day, I tried to start the vehicle and just heard the click. After rocking the vehicle, it started right up.
I was curious to why the battery was that low and so I hooked up a meter inline from the battery terminal to the disconnected red wire. Please find the results below:
-Entire top of the fuse box was removed of fuses, relays, etc. – read 0.20A empty – it sounded like the fuse box clicked when the circuit was completed. Not quite sure what was plugged in to draw that much current.
-The fuse box was reconstructed except for a few fuses – read 0.24A
-M13 fuse was connected and current increased to 0.64A (0.40A increase from previous)M13 – 20A fuse for Cabin Compartment Node (CCN)/Wireless Control Module (WCM)/Multifunction Control Switch.
-M12 fuse was connected and current increased to 1.67A (1.03A increase from previous)M12 - 30A fuse for Radio/Amplifier
-Viper fuse was connected and current increased to 1.73A (0.06A increase from previous)
I guess it come down to a few questions:
-What could be the reasoning the vehicle does not start consistently? Is it due to the battery or something else?
-What would draw a ¼ Amp without any visible connections on the top of the fuse box?
-Why would fuse M12 take so much current without a key in the ignition?
-Anything else I should look for?
I have a 98 pontiac sunfire with 130 k it died out last week while I was driving got a p0342 code I replaced the camshaft sensor still nothing I'm getting spark and I can hear the fuel pump click on.
View 9 RepliesAny way, my 2000 Pontiac Sunfire will randomly not accelerate while I am driving. I was initially rolling up to a red light so took my foot of the gas at about 20 mph, then the light turned green so I tried to hit the gas but nothing happened for about 5-7 seconds. So I was just coasting, but then I hit the gas and everything was fine. It did this a second time on the way home. Two days later I went to start my car and it wouldn't start. Nothing was happening--no noises, nothing. So I got my battery tested--Autozone tested it and said it was bad, but after replacing the battery nothing happened still.
Then a "mobile mechanic" came and stuck a screw driver into the starter to short circuit it so it made a sound like it was trying to start, but didn't. Then after a few minutes he looked and my radio was on and it started with the key. Since then it has not started only one time when I used a screw driver to start it myself, but when I was on a steep incline last night it kept not accelerating if I made it work too hard. I would be at ~65 mph and it would just quit so I'd pull off the side of the road and it would drop to ~40 mph for ~5-7 seconds, then I'd hit the gas again and it would go just fine. It did this about 3-4 times. One time all the lights on the dashboard flashed on when it wouldn't go. One time it just completely stalled on me when I was driving. I pulled off the side of the road and started it again and it was fine.
I have a 1996 pontiac sunfire.one of my headlights is a lot dimmer. I put a new bulb in there and still the same thing.
View 3 RepliesFor the last two years my old Sunfire (I've been its only owner) has been tugging while speeding up (happens at different speeds) and I have taken it to all sorts of mechanics and none have been able to solve the issue. The car had a faulty injector which was changed with a new original part, the transmission diagnosis have all come out negative, the engine is in great condition according to all the mechanics and the electromechanics I've been to have found no problems with the car whatsoever.
The car has around 130,000 miles and runs great, it just has these tugging episodes while accelerating and I have ran out of things to check in the darn car. The car is always up-to-date with maintenance and it's used for short trips the majority of time. What could be wrong with this car?
Another detail is that when the car is full (fuel) the tugging stops, but none of the mechanics have been able to find the relation between the fuel and the tugging.
I have a 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2l 5 speed. 3rd and 5th gears are grinding as i enter the gear. It happens when i am up shifting sometimes, but more often happens when down shifting. im not sure if i have a clutch issue or if i need to replace the transmission. I recently replace the clutch slave cylinder/throw out bearing. at the same time i flushed the fluid. How do i start to diagnose the problem?
View 7 RepliesFuel pump went out, took it to garage to have it fixed. Got it back...now I have no headlights, taillights, or dash lights. I have turn signals, break lights, and brights. I've checked fuses under the hood, and on both sides. Replaced them all twice just to be sure. I've changed the ignition switch and the multi-function switch. I'm at a loss!
View 3 RepliesMy daughter drives a 1996 sunfire 2.2. car started stalling while driving about a year ago. No apparent pattern, would go weeks even months in between. Last summer it became more frequent and noticed it would only do it when engine was warm. After stalling it will restart after what seems to be a cooling down period. Now it does it at idle as well. (Replaced fuel pump and filter) would like a good guess before I start putting money into it.
View 4 Replies2003 Pontiac Sunfire, 103K miles, a little overdue for an oil change, but no major (or minor) problems before now:
Last Monday my car was running fine until, on my way out of town, I gassed up. Immediately, my car started acting strange: immediately died upon leaving the station, didn't want to start, RPMs all over the place, acceleration & braking weren't responding properly, TERRIBLE idling, difficult handling at higher speeds (>45 mph), check engine light eventually came on, as well as the battery light (for just a minute).
Needless to say, I decided not to go out of town and took the car to a local mechanic (by this time the car was dying regularly and absolutely did not want to start). This morning he told me that I have water in my fuel tank and detailed a draining process that sounds expensive. However, after reading several "water in gas tank" threads on here, I'm skeptical. As a young woman living the in the South, I'm sure you all can understand my suspicion. So, is he giving me the run around? For what it's worth, I do live in southern Louisiana - hot, humid, rains daily - water isn't exactly scarce here.
Here's the story: My engine misfires one night so the next day I check the spark plugs and there is oil in the far left plug well. I decided to change the valve gasket cover. Went to take off the covers and the cover wouldn't budge. It ended up cracking some metal piece that I SUSPECT houses the timing chain. I've included several pictures of my engine bay so you can get a feel for how it looks. Not sure what the part that is cracked is called. Anyway my real question is, is it worth it to replace this part and sell the car for around 1800 or just scrap it for about 500? The parts circled in red are where the crack is.
Pontiac sunfire 1997 2.4L 4 Cylinder