Went to drive my '02 Prius today and it is totally dead. I mean no electrical current at all. Dome light does not come on, nothing when I turn ignition - just no electricity. Was fine when I drove it yesterday. Even hooked up a jumper battery to the terminals in the trunk and there is still no power. At a loss as to what problem could be. Is there some fuse or relay I need to look at???
View 11 RepliesI have a 97 pontiac sunfire that will crank, but will only start when I hear the fuel pump running. My mechanict says that the fuel pump is not getting electricity. He is not an electric automotive mechanic, so what needs to be checked when the fuel pump is not getting electrical current. How do i fix it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Jeep Liberty Sport 4X4 with 63,000 miles. There have been issues starting the car for about a year and a half.
It all started when a key was inserted into the ignition about a year and a half ago and a click would just be heard after the key was turned to the start position. Usually it started after the key was removed and inserted again. Sometimes it would take a few tries but most of the time it would start right up on the try one.
After 10 months, the battery was replaced after the vehicle had to be jump started. Shortly after, I had a Viper 5901 remote starter installed in the vehicle by a reputable store. The issue seemed to go away and thought the issue was fixed. The vehicle now was started from the remote control 90% of the time.
The issue started to become worse about 2 months ago. It would take more than 15 tries to start and to temporarily relieve the issue; it can be started on the 3rd or 4th try by rocking the vehicle. The starter was replaced two weeks ago by a reputable auto mechanic at my request. I went to a camp the day after for a week and most of the time it just sat in the hot sun except for short errands sporadically throughout the week.
I then went on a week vacation and the car sat in the driveway. I came back and the car didn’t have any power. The battery read 1.2 volts. It was jump started and then I went to work. At the end of the work day, I tried to start the vehicle and just heard the click. After rocking the vehicle, it started right up.
I was curious to why the battery was that low and so I hooked up a meter inline from the battery terminal to the disconnected red wire. Please find the results below:
-Entire top of the fuse box was removed of fuses, relays, etc. – read 0.20A empty – it sounded like the fuse box clicked when the circuit was completed. Not quite sure what was plugged in to draw that much current.
-The fuse box was reconstructed except for a few fuses – read 0.24A
-M13 fuse was connected and current increased to 0.64A (0.40A increase from previous)M13 – 20A fuse for Cabin Compartment Node (CCN)/Wireless Control Module (WCM)/Multifunction Control Switch.
-M12 fuse was connected and current increased to 1.67A (1.03A increase from previous)M12 - 30A fuse for Radio/Amplifier
-Viper fuse was connected and current increased to 1.73A (0.06A increase from previous)
I guess it come down to a few questions:
-What could be the reasoning the vehicle does not start consistently? Is it due to the battery or something else?
-What would draw a ¼ Amp without any visible connections on the top of the fuse box?
-Why would fuse M12 take so much current without a key in the ignition?
-Anything else I should look for?
Battery is dead.You jump start the car.You let it run for an hour.
Does this kill the alternator?How exactly does the alternator work harder?It's spinning at the same rate.
2004 Venture LT ... The newest problem I am having that I haven't resolved is that the fuel gauge is showing empty, low fuel light on, range on trip computer says (E). I repaired the wiring harness's on the left and right front due to ac leakage, and I also repaired the pass through behind the drivers seat. This seemed to resolve many of the problems I was having.
The thing I noticed is that before I repaired the pass through connector the gauge would work intermittently but now its totally dead. I find it unlikely that the sender and the connector would go out at the same time. Any wiring diagram of that connector, or at least which color the wires are for the sending unit and the resistance values I should get?
I have a problem. 2002 F-350 4R100 tranny. Put a reman transmission in about 30000kms ago. pulled excellent with no problems. shut it off for night. In the morning it had absolutly no forward and a little bit of slipping reverse for a few minutes now it is totally dead. No movement either way. The OD on off flashed a few times but not anymore. Put a Genisys scanner on and no codes at all. What could be the issue?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Honda accord (161k) This summer the entire electrical system would briefly shut down. I could keep driving and the engine never completely quit but it just blinked off and then back on. It seems to do it more in hot weather.
View 1 RepliesJust got a 66 f100. Some one cut out the ignition. It has a toggle switch that doesn't seem to do anything, turned it to on and used a screwdriver to short the solenoid and it did not crank. I think I counted 9 cut wires in the area of the ignition counting 2 for the toggle. My other 61-66 trucks seem to just have five wires? So I can remove an ignition from one of these parts trucks, but might there be a difference since the gauges are unique to 1966 ?
Started to take the ignition out of my 62 f600 but i hate to cut wires but i must since there is no remnant of an ignition in the 66 f100. If I can match the five wires i should be ok. Just putting a battery in i have headlights, tailights and dash lights. Solenoid and cable to starter look horrible so i bought a new cable. I think i have a good solenoid or two? I didn't even get a spark when i shorted the solenoid with a screwdriver....
Yr 2000 F-150 with V6 . Only 68K miles. 3 weeks ago went into fast food for lunch and then truck would not start. The starter would spin it over real well and plenty of gas etc etc. I came back the next day with a tow truck to take it to the dealer and it cranked and ran perfectly for 3 weeks till yesterday. Same thing. Will not start in parking lot of grocery store.
I only have one key and someone suggested that it could be the chip in the key or the theft system acting up. I only have one key from when I bought the truck 7 years ago used. Someone else said when the anti theft system is screwing up, the motor will be totally dead and starter will not work.
This time I am again planning to tow to the dealer and I fear a huge bill for something that is actually very tiny at fault since the truck runs perfectly well and then mysteriously will not start. This is the 2nd time in 3 weeks I have been stranded. I pulled all the fuses and reinserted. I checked all spark wires and they are in good shape and tight. What could it be that all of a sudden causes the engine to not start up and run intermittently ?
It is something I can do myself and I am pretty capable. I replaced in the last year water pump, power steering pump, ball joints and alternator. So what is not getting..... fuel or spark? The only two things we need for to run ... right ?
After I install a after market backup camera, following problem occurred. Current is always on for windows even I didn't press power button.
View 4 RepliesSo I use my car as a "work truck" and part of my duties involves stopping at a number of houses(8-12) for 5-15 min at a time and then driving 2-6 miles to the next house.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan that has some intermittent starting issues.
Symptoms: put key in, dash lights up. turn key, 1 "click", and then nothing, won't start, no extended clicking or anything. Sometimes it will start after a few tries, sometimes come back later and it works. Battery also seems to drain relatively quickly sitting, and so sometimes needs to be jumped if sitting for a few days.
Also, had a really strange experience where after it had to be jumped while driving, the dash and blinker totally went out, but car kept running. This happened a couple of times. I suspected something with the battery, so I had it tested and it checked out OK. Also, cleaned the terminals/battery cables w/ cleaner, wire brush, steel wool and sprayed some corrosion prevention stuff on there. It did need to be cleaned, but, alas, the problem continues.
Have had my 2002 for one year now, with 96k miles. Occasionally I get the red triangle but after 5 restarts it quits showing.
But now I have a different problem: in the mornings the car is dead, I turn the key all the way but not even the display comes on. But, if I turn the key all the way to where it says "start" and hold it there, energy slowly starts to flow and after about 2 minutes I get a lighted-up display and the car gets back to normal.
Seems like the 12-volt depletes overnight and when I hold the key in "start" the main battery charges the aux. I'm afraid suddenly this won't work and I'll get stranded anytime.
My main battery is dieing will my prius run on just gas until I can get it fixed? It is a 2001 hybrid. I need to get to work for the weekend.
View 6 RepliesI just upgraded from a 2004 Prius Six to a 2012 Plug in Advanced. My wife used to love watching the average mpg for the current tank of gas as she drove, and wants to know where to find that display on the new car. For some reason, I just can't find it and couldn't find any reference to it in the FAQ. Am I missing something simple? That number was her favorite incentive.
View 3 RepliesI bought a 1996 Lexus ls400 last July to extend the life of my Santa Fe. So during the summer months, I've hardly been driving the SF. My problem is that if I don't drive it for 4 to 5 days, I get a tapping noise on start up and it continues for about 3 to 4 minutes and then totally disappears. As long as I drive it every other day I never hear that sound. Not sure if this is a recent development or has always been there as the SF used to be my DD.
View 8 RepliesI'm sure it's been mentioned before, but if you need to put an 01-03 Prius into Neutral with dead battery (i.e. to push the car so you can reach it with jumper cables) you need to remove the rectangular panel on the bottom drivers side of the steering column. It's tiny, smaller than a postage stamp. Use a strong pen-knife or very small screwdriver to pop the panel out.
You may want to remove the panel when things are good, so if you ever have to use the gearshift release you don't have to hunt around for a knife since it's on pretty tight from the factory. (just leave it off once removed).
This morning I noticed a strong burning odor, like burning wax. It only seems to occur on high current regen events (eg coming off the freeway). It also happens to be raining, although I'm not sure if that's part of the issue or just a coincidence.
View 5 RepliesMy car has the original battery and it hasn't given me issue. Even a few weeks back when most of the country was really frozen and the car was parked outside, it started fine.
Last week after a work day in the parking lot, she was dead-dead. No dome light, no cluster, no lock LED. After 5 minutes tethered to a friend's battery via jumpers, it quickly showed interior electricity but the starter strained. 5 minutes more and the car started like nothing happened. Last weekend after a movie, the car was dead-dead again. I opened the door to see if I could hear the starter to determine how dead it was and the dome/cluster lights came back and it started fast.
The car sat for 36 hours or so and started fine, even after pretty substantial temp drops. Got around town for the past 2 days, no issue.
Today the car was dead again. Jumped it off my Mk2 and went on my way. It started fine and got me to Advanced Auto where their battery tester read 400 CCA and their info showed spec was 430 CCA. They didn't want to sell me a battery yet and suggested an overnight trickle charge and to monitor the issue.
If it was just a dead battery requiring a jump, I'd replace it. But the other oddities + the seemingly good test #'s makes me wonder what else I'm seeing.
I was driving on the highway when everything on the car went dark-the wipers (it was raining) stopped-and I was left just coasting. The hazards worked. I managed to coast through the exit and off the access road which is where the car is now, the next morning.
Once again: Car running fine, with no problems when an instantaneous shutdown occurred.
The key fob's battery had gotten to the point that the Smart System wasn't working so I assumed that the fob battery had gone totally dead and wasn't communicating with the car while inserted in the fob slot. I replaced the fob battery and it activates the Smart System now.
The 12v battery was replaced less than 6 months ago. The headlights still work....I think that would only happen when the key was available normally and this might be related to the below description:
The car makes the warning sound when I open the driver door as if the fob is still in the ignition (it's the warning that the keys are about to be locked in the car) so it seems to not realize the key has been removed.
The suddenness of the shut down makes me think that it's a blown fuse or, a horrible thought, that the immobilization feature is activated.
I have a 2006 GS 300 AWD with 47,000 miles. I am currently on my fourth battery in 13 months. Between 12/2008 and 12/2009 I have had to have three batteries replaced. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with my car. Is there anything I can do. The last time the battery died on 12/5/2009 the car could not be jump started and had to be towed. The dealer said there was no parasitic electrical short and I have just had three dead batteries in one year. I have heard there have been electrical defects in Toyota products and it is not just the gas pedal.
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