Prius (2001-03) :: Shuddering Transmission - Code P3125 And P3120?
Oct 14, 2013
Working on a 2002 prius with 153k miles. bought it with a "Bad transmission" diagnosed by toyota dealer. Got I home and did a quick check but there were no codes. I drove it about 50 feet into my garage where it would shudder badly while being driven which from my experience sounds like a bad MG2 motor. Drained the oil and thought hhmmm th oil does not smell bad and neither did it look burned. Proceeded to pull the mg2 but found it looked brand new, no burned spots or any such thing. SO I put it back together and think its a bad invertor. put on a different invertor that I have lying in my garage that I "think" is good and start the car. get code p3125 and p3120 and still have the bad shuddering when i try to drive it..Is there any way to test it further before I pull the trans and put a new trans back in?
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I bought my Prius after I tested the car around town and on the highway and went smoothly. I drove the car about 200 km after the warning came on board, high temperature and cold engine warning (red and blue). Stopped the car and I found nothing to be hot (engine or inverter).
I rebooted and the errors disappeared but reappeared and on the highway (120 km) car no longer accelerate, pedal did not respond.Stopped and restarted repeatedly trying to get as close to home and a Toyota service. High and low temperature have appeared and disappeared after stopped and restarted. Warnings appear together, none or only one of them.
But after 600 km appeared turtle on board and the car stopped. I was unable to start. They came from Toyota and were able to start with another auxiliary battery and ran 10 km with a tester on the dashboard (at full throttle and the car accelerated 1 km / sec until it reached 60 km / h then accelerated normal to 125km/h. When he put the foot on brake and after that tried to accelerate again the pedal was non responsive and the car stopped again and they towed it.
Next day they told me that the ECU is faulty (the one located behind the glove compartment) together with the Auxiliary Battery.(1100 Euro ECU).They told me that the temperature sensor is 200 degrees Celsius with a cold engine.
We towed the car to another service closer to home (1300 km) and asked a second opinion telling me that is defective inverter. I decided to buy an ECU. (220 Euro/ second hand)
Meanwhile my traction battery died after they tried to start the car many times.
After I charged the traction battery (one module at a time), whole battery shown after charging 301 V.
Now I have the following :
P3120 HV transaxle / Wire harness
INF. Code 249 (Open or +B short in motor temperature sensor)
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I bought an 01 Prius with 148k miles. It had code P3125 which mean bad inverter. I replaced the inverter with one from a junk yard with 81k miles. As soon as I was done the car started right up, and I didnt get electrocuted!
Right after the car started I got codes P3115 P3001 and P 3191. I cleared them out and turned off the car for a min.
When I started the car again I got codes P3030 and P3001.
This car has an extensive service history, It has a new Cat and exhaust, a new accessory and HV traction battery that are less than 8 months old. Crank position sensor is new. fuel tank is new.
What could be causing the P3030 and the P3001?
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My Wife was driving our 2001 Prius and got the big triangle and the car went into limp mode.
The Codes were P3100 (info code 196) and P3125 (info code 325)
P3100/196 = Internal Error - Generator CPU Malfunction
3125/325 - Inverter Internal Short. - Generator Inverter Fin - Inverter Internal short
Clear the codes and the car runs fine, but the problem will eventually resurface.
The dealer wanted tor replace both the converter/inverter and HV ECU.
I purchased replacement converter/inverter from Ebay and inverter coolant pump (new) and installed.
Problem eventually resurfaced. I purchased replacement HV ECU from ebay and installed.
Engine would not start (does not attempt to even turn over), but was not throwing any codes. I had this same symptom with a third HV ECU as well. The part numbers on the HV ECU were exact matches.
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My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
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Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
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2001 Prius (242,044 miles) with transaxle error code! Red triangle with exclamation mark, check engine light, PS error, Main battery error, and little red car with exclamation mark error. One week ago car gave random misfire codes with a burnt smell... could have been from my car or could have been a smell from the car next to me. Cleared codes and they never came back. This week I get the CODE OF TRANSMISSION DEATH the dreaded P3120 along with a 5 minute wait by the side of the road until I could restart it and drive the 5 miles back to the house. Cleared the code but it came back the next day with another total loss of power and another 5 minute wait on the side of the road.
After I turn off the car and wait a few minutes it will usually start back up and I can continue on my way... sometimes for a few miles and sometimes for 10 miles. My question is this... could this problem be something other than a bad transmission (transaxle) or should I be looking for a used transmission on ebay? I have also heard that it is possible that the MG2 might be bad and that it can be swapped out without pulling the motor so how can I test and confirm my real problem. I plan to repair myself one way or another... Other than all these warning codes and exclamation mark warnings symbols she drives great until she stops producing power and coasts to a total stop.
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I picked up a 2003 that had a bad AUX battery and P3130 code. Just FYI, aside from the battery it drives fine. Kicks the Warning light after about 15 miles but since the battery was bad it kept getting reset. Replaced the battery with a nice optima conversion.
Took out the inverter coolant pump, tested the circuit (good), tested the pump (bad). Replaced with a new one from dealer. Set up the bleeder tubes and massaged the lines till the new pump stopped SCREAMING at me. Added probably 2 qts of TLLC total. Bleeder tubes never had enough pressure to push fluid back up to reservoir but got solid 2 inches of fluid with no bubbles. Topped of the coolant. Went for a drive around the block, made it halfway (about 28mph) before the light kicked in and the motor seemed to bog down. Limped back home and read the 3125 Code. Code reader does not give me sub codes.
2003 Prius 154K miles on ODO.
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2002... 184,000+ miles
I was driving the car and triangle popped up and engine would not shut off while parked (key on) I hooked up the non prius aware scanner (carry one with me at all times) and don't remember the code, but it was a "HV malfunction".
I didn't shut the car off to clear the code as I was not home and attempted to drive it home, meanwhile engine never shut off. I had to come to a complete stop at a red light and the car died. tried restarting it but nothing. so I pushed it off to the side of the road and cleared the code. Tried again and nothing. didn't start, nothing. it beeped and error code popped up. Checked the code and it was p3125.
I know there are subcodes but online it was leading to inverter. but I replaced the inverter last year with a re involt. I had the car towed to my job for $50, to have it towed home, would cost roughly $168. When I got it to work, I did the screen thing and checked the 12v battery and it was reading 10.9 I have been meaning to get a new one for about a year now so I did.
I purchased a new optima battery and installed it yesterday, cleared the codes, tried to start it and nothing. error code p3125. What leads me to believe that it may be a transaxle, well actually a Mg2 is when my inverter went bad, it would start then shudder and die then the triangle would pop up. this time around, it doesn't even start. I have an appointment with the dealership to get the code with subcode read on Tuesday 10/15 for $98.7.
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Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
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Could a bad transmission cause error code P3030 and P3009?
This car has no other symptoms other than the Mil light and the check engine light.
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I have been posting about P3125 fault which is inhibiting ICE from starting. During this time I have been charging and also testing the traction battery so that I could continue to investigate the P3125 problem.
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Those with AWD model LS's and shuddering transmissions. Don't go into the dealership barking orders. Just mention that you "think" your car is suffering from this condition and that you would like it checked. Certain conditions have to be met with the vehicle so plan on leaving it with the dealer for the day if possible. It has to be driven with the scan tool connected and recording live data. So this is NOT something you want to drop-in unannounced for.
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I purchased a 2001 Subaru Forester about 4 years ago. Within 48 hours of buying it from a dealer, the check engine light came on showing the PO420 code. The car was running fine without any problems and it was suggested to us by 2 independent mechanics that Subaru is notorious for throwing this code, so we didn't investigate it any farther besides doing a fuel system clean/flush that was offered to us by the dealer.
Lately, the car has started sort of shuddering during acceleration so we figure it's time to look into this more, but just trying to figure out where to start. From what I understand, this model has 2 catalytic converters and 2-3 O2 sensors. I've been reading as much as I can on the topic and watching videos trying to figure out our options and whether we should try replacing the O2 sensors first or just go for replacing the whole shebang. I know we cannot afford the pricey repair of it all right now so the car will have to sit for quite some time before we can do that; however, if we can figure out how to do it ourselves, we could get it done much sooner.
My questions are:What is the likelihood that this could still be an O2 sensor issue considering the shuddering when accelerating?
What other signs do I look for besides rattling in the cats to know they might be bad?
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2005 GX470 transmission shuddering. While lightly driving, I feel a shudder at approx 35 mph, then again at 45 mph. I took it to the local Lexus dealer to have them analyze. Would you believe I could not get it to shudder when the mechanic went for a ride-along. Meanwhile, I'll just wait until the problem gets worse then bring it back in.
The mechanic mentioned Lexus had problems with the LX a few years back with transmission shuddering, but not with the GX.
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When looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle. what numbers are the cylinders from left to right? To curtail off of that question where do I locate the corresponding ignition coils to these c I have been dealing with intermittent misfires on cylinders 1 and 3 codes P0300, P0301, P0303. I replaced the spark plugs to no avail. Whenever the vehicle shudders the headlights dim and the shuddering is worse when the vehicle is placed in gear, the A/C fan is on, or the vehicle is accelerating. Once I reach a certain speed, usually 35-40 mph, I don't notice until I again slow down. I replaced the spark plugs the day after I had the first issue appear which read code P0301. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I experienced a severe loss of acceleration power, but now only experience the shuddering.
2011 Hyundai Accent 63500 miles ....
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I'm a proud owner of 2005 Mustang GT, 4.6L with an automatic transmission. Intermittently for the last year or so (maybe once every 3 or 4 months) its been shuddering when in reverse. Today it ramped things up a notch. :-/ The shuddering was pretty dramatic when I was trying to back out of my driveway, I shifted into park for a moment, then back into reverse, and it seemed to be ok. Then when trying to back into a parking spot this afternoon at work (in a parking garage with a small incline) it lost power almost entirely in reverse, lightly pushing on the gas just caused the car to shudder and not move anywhere. I shifted into park, and then back into reverse and heard an audible "pop" (my windows were down, but they hadn't been earlier so I'm not sure if this happened in the morning) and the car did not want to reverse. Rather than risk further damage I decided that it was parked relatively ok (90% in the space, eh good enough) so I stopped.
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Looking for info on tranny code 18155 or p1747 is ? Car is 2001 and out of warranty..
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I have a 2002 F150 Super crew with a 5.4 and a 4R70W tranny. The issue I am experiencing is when the truck is driven where the tranny has shifted through all it's gears and cruising at say 55 mph, when depressing the accelerator pedal it either downshifts of something unlocks making a shuddering sound which sounds like when you run over rumble strips on the side of the road. The shuddering only happens for maybe a second at the most. If I am on the accelerator pedal when it up shifts or locks back up it makes the shuddering sound again. The harder the unlocking / locking or downshifting / up shifting happens the harder and longer the shuddering is.
This shuddering happens at the very last transmission function which happens in the transmission during it's normal operation. Other tan this issue the tranny shifts and operates excellent.
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Going up a hill this LS started shuddering and misfiring and set the po302 code. A small push on the accelerator sometimes seems to temporarily remedy the issue. This started about a week ago. fuel mileage : 26 mpg highway
Here's the readings I got at idle:
Fuel pressure is KOEO - 0 (That's what it read.); KOER - 30.
MAF - about 70
LT FUEL TRIM 1 - 5.5
ST FUEL TRIM 1 - STAYS NEGATIVE
LT FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 11 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 21 - STAYS NEGATIVE
O2 1 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S12 - STAYS ABOVE .500
O2 S21 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S22 - STAYS ABOVE .500
Not familiar with this vehicle...
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My 2002 2.4lt Santa Fe started shuddering under braking just after I brought it, so I got the front disc's skimmed, fixed it but 6 months later it come back, so on went a new OEM set, fixed it but 6 months later it's back again...
I'm about to skim this new set and see what happens.
Part number 81230-26000 and 81230A from partmaster
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