I just had the 3rd hubcap break on my '07 touring with 80K miles. They run $70+ each at the dealer. The aftermarket units the dealer sells don't fit the 16" wheels on the Touring model. Just curious if others have the same problem.
View 1 RepliesSince finding 2 hubcaps "missing", I am wondering if I have options as to the styles of hubcaps? Does a particular style affect fuel efficiency? Will going "capless" improve gas mileage?
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn on the A/C, there had a ice-breaking like sound was came out from the unit. After around 10 minutes it will become normal.
View 1 RepliesI have a 'new to me' 2007 F-350SD super cab and need to run some wiring inside. What I don't know is how the heck the trim pieces are attached and how to remove them without breaking them! If it ain't held on with screws, nuts, bolts...
View 2 RepliesI hate it when this happens, but I have a coil breaking down, and I've been advised multiple times to not replace all 8 coils. So how do I figure out which one it is? I am almost sure its a coil, as the plugs do not have enough miles on them to be bad already, and the truck has plenty of power it just has a slight shudder under a load, and the engine light will occasionally flash. Seems to go away after a bit. However, I can't get it to throw a code for whatever is causing the issue. 2004 Ford F150 146k miles on it
View 10 RepliesRecently the smaller part of the door handle broke off - we were going to try to superglue it but realized that would be tricky considering the locking mechanism might not work.
Well now 2 weeks later, the door cannot be opened from the outside, even if the door is unlocked. We took the handle off, but now I am afraid to leave it as is, because it would attract a thief to break-in.
Does the handle is completely off can it be "jimmied" open? Is there a way to fix without replacing the entire door handle.
Bought a used 2002 Prius in December of last year. When I got it home the hybrid system warning light and the check engine light came on, but after reading through priuschat for a few hours I thought to take a look at the engine air filter, which turned out to be utterly filthy. Replaced it and the car ran fantastically for the next 8 months, which was plenty of time for me to fall utterly in love with how quiet it is and how smooth a ride it is.
The carfax report for the car showed that its battery was replaced shortly before I bought it and that its transmission fluid was changed approximately 20k miles before that, so I thought (apparently mistakenly) that I didn't have to worry too much about either.
During these 8 months the car saw my regular mechanic for oil changes twice, had a bad CV axle replaced and I was told the serpentine belt was glazing and may need to be replaced with the next oil change, but neither I nor my regular mechanic noticed any other issues.
I own a stock GS300 2007 RWD doing about 80K miles here in Thailand. I am facing one critical issue with my ride. While driving normally if I hit the brake hard the car seems to loose power then there is a hard knock from the rear which knocks the car forward. I think it is caused from the downshift of the gear, but I am not quite sure. It happens often in the same kind of situation.
View 5 RepliesI've been noticing that one of my front hubcaps has been backing off slightly. I tap it back on and it's good for a while. But lately I'm noticing that I have to tap it back on more often. I took it off today, thinking that I might need a new one. The part number on the inside is IC34-IA096-AB. It's on my 2003 Ford F250 4x4.
I pulled the opposite cover and tried it on the side I'm having trouble with and noticed the same thing. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the chrome plated trim piece that covers the steel rim has tabs that should be flat to the rim. I'm referring to the area where the trim piece ends, near the lug nuts. On the one that I'm not having trouble with, it's flush/flat all around. But on the one I'm having trouble with, some of the ends are not flush to the rim. That is why the hubcap is not seating in those areas. I can see the gap and I can also push down on that section. It's almost as if that trim piece is separating from the rim? I tried using a punch and giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer, but it doesn't press it back to being flush with the rim.
Why would the end of that trim piece that covers the whole wheel lift up on the ends? Is there a way to get it to sit flat?
I've a 1993 2.3 and 1992 4.0 both with a/c systems down. On the 1993 Ranger I tried to loosen the evaporator tube nut to install the new accumulator now it looks like there's going to have to be a new evaporator. Without hardly any pressure that tube just twisted like it was nothing. Someone told me I have to spray it with wd-40 3 days prior to loosening it. I doubt that would even work. Hopefully removing the evaporator case cover under the hood won't be too time consuming because now I've got to. So I don't want to make the same mistake on my 1992 4.0. I need to change the accumulator, orifice tube, flush the evaporator, condenser, install the new hoses, and compressor before evacuating and recharging. Is there anything that makes it a breeze to loosening those evaporator and liquid line nuts without destroying the evaporator?
View 3 RepliesI own a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited. Awhile back, I received an TSB announcement for possible clicking noises due to some of the door welds breaking off.
Well, I am getting very loud clicking noises and I'm afraid I'm affected by the TSB.
I called one dealer around me and he said it will take the 3 days because they have to send it to a body shop to have them take the doors apart, weld around the doors, then possibly repaint the door due to the paint being affected by the heat from welding.
So, I just bought this car 2 months ago, and it drives kinda funny. I constantly have the feeling that I will lose control on the highway when slightly turning left. Everything is ok until I start turning left. It feels like somebody just grabbed aggressively the steering wheel and pulled left. (happens over 30-40mph) Normally, if I do not hold the steering wheel, it slowly turns by itself to the right. I checked the steering fluid and it looks like it's fine. There's enough fluid and it looks clear.
View 2 RepliesAnnoyed by the wheezing noise on 2014 ES300H? It only happens when I let go off the gas pedal or breaking. Is there a way to rid of it?
View 5 RepliesMy daughter has a 1999 Passat 4cyl.... In the last year I've had 2 lower control arms at the front ball joints just break away. Lucky it has been when she was either stopping or at very slow speed.
On inspection this looks like a very unsafe design flaw. The aluminum control arm is strong except for the light metal around the ball joint it's self. If one of these let go at speed it could be fatal!!
What causes the break other than normal wear and is there any signs before one lets go?
Do the 2010 5.4 motors still have any issues like the cam phasers or the spark plugs breaking upon removal? I'm looking at a 2010 F150 4x4 but I didn't want the headaches that might go with it since it has 80k miles....
View 14 RepliesWindow washer nozzle break? My passenger side broke last Friday and then today when inspecting the driver's side it broke in the exact same place. They broke near where the nozzle that is inserted into the hose takes a 90 degree turn up through the hood leaving parts of the nozzle in the hose. I was able to squeeze the rubber hose with pliers to break up the plastic nozzle so that it would fall out. Attempts to grab broken nozzle piece with needle nose pliers were unsuccessful. Of course they waited too break until 8 months after my warranty expired but not a big deal. 10 minute install. I got the last two that the dealer had in stock.
View 14 RepliesI drive a 2000 Grand Voyager with 260,000 miles on it. The airbag light goes on and off and I was told the clock spring is breaking in the steering column. Is there any danger to not having it fixed besides the airbag not going off when it is supposed to, like airbag going off when it is NOT supposed to or function damage to the car or electrical systems. I have mechanics tell me both yes and no. Any thoughts from people here? I'm trying to get as many miles out of it as possible without spending too much on stuff that doesn't need fixed.
View 10 RepliesMy '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 f150 with 4.6l an 4r70w trans. I am on my second flex plate when I pulled the trans this time the tc was stuck to flex plate an the center of flex plate was busted around the bolts it has the remo engine in it but the studs on the tc were stuck in the flexplate I got them apart but it looked as if holes were off center on studs orded new tc an flex plate again. There is 1 bolt missing in top of housing an one was to long an didn't tighten up could that cause it to do it...
View 3 RepliesBolts breaking on the exhaust manifold. If so why isn't ford doing a recall on this problem I have a F350 V10 90K miles and 3 on the top drivers side are missing not sure on the passenger side. Is this a problem with all the ford engines I have never had this problem with any other truck or car I have owned.
View 5 RepliesMy 2007 Prius 4h with about 157k miles took a dump on Tuesday. My son was waiting for me in the car with both the air and the radio running on full blast. He'd pushed the power button twice (not sure if that matters) to get the air to run cold. After 20 minutes he turned it off. When I got back to the car, I push the power button and get a message stating "the P lock is not engaged" and to park on level ground, which I already was. I push the power button again start the car and all of the warning lights lit up, but the car didn't start. I push the power button and the warning lights would not go off. I had to push it a couple more times before they finally faded off. I tried to turn the car on again, same thing. No power. I lower the windows and they barely move. Eventually the car wouldn't respond at all. I had three different tow truck guys (they kept sending the wrong kind of truck) try to jump it.
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