Yesterday the Check Engine light came on, the code was P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Error, Performance/Range. I have not yet had the pedal replaced related to the recall (bad me), is the sensor incorporated in the new assembly or is this separate and I'll need to replace it?
View 19 RepliesThe Check engine light on my 2006 Prius came on and I used my OBD reader to determine the code was P1121 - "Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor - range/performance problem". I cleared the code to see if it would register again and a few weeks later same code showed up, but after driving it awhile the check engine light went out with out me clearing it and it remains off. The car drives normally with no other problems and when I monitor the APP sensor output I don't see anything particularly unusual. I can spend the $300 to have a new pedal installed, but I'm not sure there's problem especially if Toyota's design allows for a non-catastrophic failure mode.
My question is how does Toyota's engine control module manage a failure of the APP sensor? Is there a fail safe backup or is there potential for loss of throttle control like we heard about years ago in the news?
Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
I have a problem with my sonata NF 2006 the check engine light turn on like 2 days ago and give me the p2128 code say Accelerator pedal Position Circuit - High Input something like that i cheek all the cable off the throttle body to the ecu and i don't see any cable broken how I can check the accelerator pedal sensor? I see in one page a texting the sensor whit a multi miter but was for santa fe and the cable don't have the same colors . I need the accelerator pedal cable diagram and i don't have it ....
View 2 RepliesIts a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
View 7 RepliesSometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 with 206,000 miles and the check engine light came on. The code reads "pedal position" but local mechanics are not knowledgeable to deal with electronics. The check engine light has been sporadic off and on so is this serious?
View 5 RepliesThe check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
View 5 RepliesIt's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
My 2007 Chevy Impala has developed a brand new problem today. Driving down the block to the store, the speedometer started fluctuating wildly. I was going a consistent speed of about 10 mph in my parking lot and when I braked to a stop the speedometer started swinging all over the place, from 10 to 35 mph. It then gave me a message on the dash saying "Speed Limited to 107 MPH" and somehow killed my accelerator because the gas pedal no longer did anything. I restarted the car and the accelerator worked again for a bit and then pulled the same problem again. The speedometer is now fluctuating wildly the entire time I drive, including while stopped, but so far the message seems to have kicked on and disabled my accelerator only when slowing to a stop and accelerating out of a stop (it happened three times).
I know that the Impala's governor is set to 107 mph so I can guess why that message exists, but I wouldn't think a governor would actually kill the car even if it kicked in at the right speed.
It wasn't that long ago that we had to have our pedal position sensor resynchronized and the mechanic had mentioned that it was possible the sensor was going bad, but I don't think that would be the problem here as it seems like the car would actually have been accelerating sporadically, whereas in my case just the speedometer is swinging around despite an even speed.
So I done some routine maintenance on my car today as I have had it just over a month. Done the oil, filter, thermostat and coolant today. This is the 2azfe, 160,000 k's.
As the title suggests, the accelerator pedal has stopped working, but I'm pretty sure its something I have done. I noticed the idle was a bit strange at times when warm, from third to second gear changes the rpm would jump up to around 1200 rpm, but if I changed from 4th to third gear the rpm would drop down to normal idle. So I decided to try clean the throttle body.
I had done this before on our 5sfe's which we no longer have. All I done was disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed some TB/carby cleaner in. On the 5sfe I could run the engine with the intake pipe off and I tried to on this too. It started and quickly stalled. Ok no big deal. So I put it back together and restarted it ok. It run fun. I gave it a few rev's via the engine bay throttle control and it revved ok. I never thought at this stage to check the accelerator peddle itself. Wasn't until the me n the family went to go somewhere I realised I had no throttle. Strangely, with the engine off I noticed the engine bay throttle control seems a bit notchy.
Anyway, tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, and check fuses. Could the throttle bottle/carb cleaner have affected a sensor somehow? There was no problem before I done this so I know its self inflicted.
I'm still learning how to do P&G, it's my first hybrid. When I release the accelerator pedal completely, I see there's a small blue bar in the charge area. I know it in charging stage but does this slow down the car? I confuse if my car is slowed down by this or the wind resistance.
View 19 Repliesi have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
View 8 RepliesI'm still trying to get my project 2001 Prius to attempt to start the ICE. I can drive the car around electric only, so MG2 is OK. I see a pulse of current going to MG1 as it does it's startup tests. So I'm thinking maybe the MG1 position sensor is faulty. Where on the transaxle the MG1 position sensor wire is located?
View 9 RepliesI bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
I have searched and have not found any information on replacing the throttle position sensor. My Santa Fe was running normal. I changed my tp sensor and how it limps along. When I loosened the old TPS, not even removed it, I heard a noise inside the TPS. When I replaced it I adjusted the TPS to read between 9 and 10% on my reader. But when I push on the gas pedal with the key on position the percentage doesn't move. Also when I drive it now it limps along and does not accelerate.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 MK4 Golf 2.0l that's been throwing a CPS error code. My brother was going to come down to visit for a weekend. He had done some diagnostic work and had me order a timing kit and a camshaft position sensor from ECS.
So, with my assembled parts, I brought the car in to a reputable shop. Anyway, the guy does the work and now the car is ready and saying that the CPS took nearly 4 hours more of work.
2008 Ford F-250 5.4L VVT. Setting both cam position sensor codes and both VVT PO12 and PO22 Codes. Runs good for a few minutes cold then goes to making noise and retards timing when warms up . Replaced both cam phasers and 1 vct solenoid and camshaft position sensors, changed oil and filter with motorcraft.. Tried unplugging VCT solenoids but still runs bad when warms up. Ran bad when engine was cold or hot before replaced phasers now only when warms up. Is it a oil pressure problem pressure shows good on dash gauge.
View 8 RepliesI took the car out for a little spin about 8 miles. We where about .5 of a mile from the house and there is a section where you have to stop on a little bit of a hill. I stalled the car due to the new Dm clutch then headed to the house and the car started to run like crap. I hooked up VAGCOM and had this code:
17748.P1340 camshaft position sensor-G40/ Engine speed sensor-G28: incorrect allocation(#1)
I swapped out the 2 cam position sensors and cleared the code and started the car and it still ran like crap. I just happen to have a new Cam position sensor(hall sensor) so I swapped it out in both cam positions one at a time and cleared the code and the car still runs like crap.
Is there a way to check(test) with vagcom to see if its one of the engine speed sensors?
I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
View 9 RepliesI've taken out the 2 bolt covers, taken out the T30 bolt, and have loosened the gas pedal a bit. But I can't pry the gas pedal upwards with a flat head screwdriver. I'm pulling and yanking this pedal up and back towards the front of the car and it won't pop off! Are there any tricks to getting this pedal off?
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