Prius (2004-09) :: Corrosion On Steering Knuckle Where Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly Seated


Oct 12, 2014

I have removed knuckle assembly and pressed out bearing hub assembly, I have the new bearing hub assembly..... I live in Iowa so there is corrosion on the knuckle assembly - I have removed enough that the new bearing assembly will go in....

My question/concern : With the corrosion removed the surface of the knuckle where the bearing will seat is not uniform all the way around. The bearing hub assembly will go in and will require pressure to do so but will the bearing last? I can buy a steering knuckle but do not want to if I don't have to.

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I'm attempting to replace a front wheel bearing and hub assembly on a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. I've removed all the hub bolts and all other more external components. I've tried hammering the assembly, reinserting the bolts partially and hammering those, a slide hammer, liquid wrench...

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How can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Steering Wheel Knuckle Wear / Tie Rod End Rocking Back And Forth

I have a 2000 Ford F-250 that I have just replaced the tie rod ends on both wheels. The hole where the tie rod attaches to the right steering knuckle getting wallowed out? When I turn the wheel I can see the tie rod end rocking back and forth.

Now if I keep tightening it down it would pull it down past the cotter pin hole exposing way more threads than any to the other tie rod ends. I've searched everywhere and can't find anything that refers to this problem.

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Dodge - Durango :: 2000 - Driver Side Outside Latch Won't Open Door / Shifter Loose / Knuckle In Steering Wheel?

I have a nice 2000 Durango 4x4 SLT, automatic. I have some problems.

1) The drivers door outside latch will not open the door, the inside latch works fine.
2) The shifter on the transfer case is loose, it appears that the drive was left in 2wd since I have been able to use it. But it will not shift?
3) The steering wheel feels like it has a lot of play in it, also feels like a knuckle is in it when I turn it. It sometimes slips on turns at speed?

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Steering Wheel Occasionally Clicks When Turning - Bad Bearing?

I have a 2004 F150 SCrew 4x4 with the 4.6 (260K)... My steering wheel occasionally 'clicks' when turning - It sounds and feels like a bearing is bad in the steering column.

When it happens, it feels like one in the bearing is binding- the steering wheel slightly binds, then there's a 'pop' like the ball snapped back into place. This only happens occasionally. Sometimes it will pop with every revolution of the steering wheel, other times not at all.

Originally, I thought it was a U-joint, but it seems like the noise is coming from the bottom of the column...

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For several days I could hear a scraping sound from the right front side. I thought it was snow packed in the wheel well at first, until there wasn't any snow there. Today I was driving on the Xway and the scraping became a buzz like a Cessna airplane. On the way back home I turned the steering wheel back and forth and sure enough the buzz came and went. That made it sure to me the wheel bearing was bad.

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I thought thats not good but found it hard to believe something else was bad as I had no vibration and no pull whatsoever in steering. Long story short I bought a new set of tires Kumho KR21's at stock size and oh crap exact same noise.

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I'm trying to replace the CV axle on my wife's 2006 Chevy Malibu, and the project is frozen in its track by a seized bolt.

Specifically, the top bolt of the two bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the strut. I got the nuts off the other end of each bolt with a breaker bar no problem. I set a jack under the steering knuckle and raised it a bit to relieve any load on the bolts, and with some PB blaster and a hammer, I got the bottom bolt out.

But this top bolt just will not budge. I've drenched the thing in PB and pounded the living hell out of it all to no avail. I don't have any socket that will fit the bolt head and besides, it's not really threaded in there. I don't have an air compressor or impact tools. The only thing I can think to do now is to get a torch and try to heat up the metal around the bolt head to maybe loosen it up some.

One way or the other the bolt has to come out now because I've mushroomed the other end of it with the hammer and a nut won't go back on it.

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