So after figuring out that my 08 is in power mode and will not automatically go back to econo mode ... how can I manually change modes on a GEN II? I know there is a way as I got it in that mode and can't get it out!
View 19 RepliesWhen you're driving, how often do you change driving modes? (Eco, Normal, Sport/Sport+)
View 14 RepliesEco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
View 14 RepliesIs it "safe" (meaning for the car) to change driving modes while driving? I understand that all it really does is change the way the throttle pedal works but just want to make sure that I don't have to be stopped to change modes.
View 8 RepliesThe a/c knob to turn the heat to cold is stripped. How do I manually change it from under the hood? I was told there is a lever you can switch the cold to hot if the knob is not working.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2013 Non-F Sport Model with Navigation and was wondering if there was a secret on HOW To TURN OFF the Navigation? Not the whole screen, just the Navigation part. I see how to turn off the screen but I want to just see my Radio/SAT menu on the screen as I do not use Navigation that often. Right now Navigation is always on and takes up 3/4 of the screen!
also... is is safe to drive in any of the 3 modes (eco, normal, sport) ALL the time in all conditions ? As in using Eco for driving all the time (city and highway), or is one better than the other for certain conditions.
I recently got a prius plugin. In last couple of weeks I have noticed that when I am EV mode and speed crosses over 65, my HV mode kicks in. But I can see the EV mode running in parallel with HV until the EV runs out. During this point, I see both the EV miles and HV miles piling up and it seems like doubling the miles in EV & HV. I saw this four or five times in the last two weeks.
View 19 Repliesmy 2007 Prius has been sounding a bit under the weather lately. There is a grinding scratching noise. This happens in either EV or HV modes and is most noticeable when bearing right. The tires are on their last treads, and a bit scalloped but that seems to me to be a different sound.
View 5 RepliesWhat are the selection input for these? I have seen them go back and forward on its own. I have also been told that there is an in-cabin humidity sensor but have seen no documentation on it. Does that switch between fresh and recirculate?
View 2 Replies- handbrake = parking brake foot thing - the thing that applies rear wheel brakes when stationary;
- manual = stick-shift etc.
- service brake = normal foot brake/big middle pedal
Driving scenario: Short pauses, quick lights etc - no problem, the car is held on the normal brake and the drive knows I have my foot on the brake so shuts all drive down.
Discussion point here - at lights, longer pause in heavy traffic, level/railway crossing etc. The sort of pause where you want to take your feet off the pedals and wait.
With a manual I would put the car in neutral, apply the handbrake and wait. Then when moving again, car into gear, hand brake off balanced with clutch bite and accelerator.
The car was left in drive all the time & knew if the handbrake was applied not to try and engage forward torque/ride clutches etc. Never needed neutral on the Audi multitronic.
With Prius III when I pull up, if I leave the car in drive and apply the handbrake, then take my foot off the service brake the power modes display shows the car putting torque through the drive train - i.e. battery->motor->wheels & you can feel it pulling slightly in creep mode against the handbrake.
I'm a very new Prius 2010 owner (as of December 2010) and I very stupidly drove my car in B for about 70 miles down the interstate. I wasn't paying attention, and had only had the car for a week, and I shifted into B instead of Drive and didn't realize it until about 70 miles down the interstate. I had been driving up to 75 mph during that time.
My dealer has the oil change sticker listed as needing changed at the next 5K miles, but my oil service display is already showing service needed, some 3K miles before their estimated 5K mark. Is this related to the horrible B driving that I did in December? I would love to just reset the oil change display and keep driving, but I did some sort of damage or extreme wear and tear with the B driving.
I don't own a Prius, but my parents own two identical 2002 models (each with 120k miles).
My mother's car wasn't driven for nearly a month (hip replacement), and when they tried to start it last week, the ready light would blink 3 times - but no cranking.
After taking it to the dealer, they were quoted $4600 to replace the traction battery and ECU. We did the mandatory research on rebuilt batteries, but with only a vague diagnosis from the dealer, we were not convinced that this was the (only) problem.
So, my brother and I decided to swap the ECU, then the battery from my father's working Prius to my mother's - thereby proving the issue. Upon removing the 'dead' battery from mother's car, I decided to open the module, and check each battery. We measured anywhere from 3.0 to 6.4V on the individual cells - and 7.0V to 11V on the paired cells. It was clear that the batteries had discharged unevenly. The total charge remaining was about 151V - still above the 40% SOC minimum I'd read about.
We then bought 5 x 10A chargers from Walmart, and connected each to a pair of modules. Set the charge to rapid (10A) and waited 30 minutes (or until the charger indicated full). After 2 hours, all 19 pair were charged fully - with each reporting 15.7V +/- 0.5V. The total power was about 295V.
We reassembled the battery, re-installed it, and the car started immediately. We let it sit running, until it cycled off on its own. About 5 min later, the ICE fired again to charge the 12V battery - but it threw a P3006 error code. It showed a PS + MAIN + battery icon on the MFD. Using an OBDII scan tool, we cleared the error, and drove the car for a few miles. The error code did not return during that drive - but did one more time after letting it cycle off/on automatically. After clearing the code a second time, it never repeated again.
My assumption is that the 300V HV charge was above the 80% SOC and it didn't like that. But after a few cranking cycles, and the tendency for the battery to discharge back to it's rated output, the error no longer repeated.
I just switched from a smart key gen 2 to a smartkey gen3.
With the gen 2 you never had to take the fob out of your pocket even with locking doors. You simply just pressed the little black button on the handle and off you went. Is there a way to trigger the car to lock with a gen 3 like this? I tried swiping my finger which would normally unlock the car but nothing.
Or does the gen 3 now require you to dig for a fob and press the button there?
My 2007 Prius wont unlock with clicking the unlock on my keys, or manually unlocking (it turns but does not unlock). I just took it for service 2 weeks ago and its been fine. I drove it as recently as yesterday no problem. I have both sets of keys. it just seems completely unresponsive.
View 1 RepliesI have a question about manually calculating mpg. How exactly can I do that? Is it hard to do it? And compare to the mpg calculated by the car computer, which is more accurate?
View 15 RepliesMy battery died. The jumper cables are under the floor of the trunk. Obviously the trunk control button under dash or on key won't operate. The manual buttons that lift the floor are hidden under the trunk door.
View 9 RepliesWhen I unlock my door by just touching the handle it only opens the driver door and if I am at the passenger door it only opens the passenger door. Is there a way to open all the doors without having to take the keys out of my pocket and hit the unlock button? I want to be able to open all doors by just touching the handle.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 pontiac grand am gt 3.4. About 5 days ago my change oil light came on and did not have time to do it at that point. Then 1 day later my service vehicle soon light came on, I thought it was due to the change oil light being on. Then next day, I changed my oil and pushed the reset button in, let the light flash then held it in until the change oil light went out. But my service vehicle light stayed on, took it to AutoZone and they put the scanner on it and the scanner did not show one thing wrong. So I had him clear the code and the light stayed of for about 10 seconds then came right back on! Is it a faulty issue or what?
View 8 RepliesI've searched & still haven't resolved my problem.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2009 model Toyota Prius. There is a smell of chemical or gas inside my vehicle when I first get in. By "gas" I mean "gas" and not "petrol". So if it is a chemical from the battery for example, it smells like natural gas. I have been delivering phone books from my car in acreage which caused me to start and stop the car every 200 meters for about an hour. I only noticed the smell after I delivered the phone books. I searched the Prius Chat forum last night and read that stopping and starting for a lengthy period is bad for the battery. Should I ignore the smell and wait for the battery warning light to show. And if the battery warning light does flash, which battery would it relate to and is there a different warning light for both batteries? I have booked my car into the Toyota service center tomorrow but think I might cancel. They will probably run a diagnostic and see nothing as they will just interpret a number from a computer. They will predictably sniff and smell nothing ... and then I will pay them the service fee for nothing.
View 2 Replies2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl - 4L - auto trans - 35K miles. I'd like to change the automatic transmission fluid, but as some may already know, there is no dipstick on these vehicles. I have one of those hand pumps which will fit on the quart bottles and I'd be able to pump new fluid in (through where the drain torx bolt is). My question is: How do you know when the fluid level is correct when re-filling and then checking ? Also, I'm assuming that this has to be checked while the vehicle is running and in park ?
View 10 Replies