New thread so this info can actually be found. Like most of you, I was irritated and embarrassed the first time I tried to top off my tank at a busy station, then had a quart of fuel pour back out onto the ground before I could get the cap back on. I did a simple fix that worked forever after. I always get a full fill, never have fuel burp.
View 1 RepliesI used to fill up with gas without shutting the car down, because I didn't see a need for it. I would disable the fan on the climate control every time to avoid having the ice come on as I refueled. I figured that because the ice wasn't coming on, I wasn't breaking the law. I've since changed my mind about this, after reading posts here on Prius Chat. I also recently noticed on the last few fillups that it seems like the gas capacity on the bladder has decreased significantly.
I used to be able to refuel the car when it was down to a single flashing pip and put 10.5 gallons in with no problem, and without overfilling. I have always been careful not to overfill. However, it seems like now I can get only 8 gallons in at the most. The capacity has decreased with the colder weather, however I used to be able to get 10 gallons in on a consistent basis without overfilling even during the winter.
Is this reduced bladder capacity a result of damage to the system, or is this normal? I have probably filled the car up about 100 times since I've owned it (odometer is around 50K now) while remaining in the ready mode.
Is there anything I can do to expand the capacity of the bladder back to normal, or will I have to live with this? Although it's annoying, I'm not going to spend the money to replace the fuel tank unless it's truly necessary.
Our 2010 Prius just had the brake booster recall done and I also installed new pads and rotors. The car now has issues with the front brakes dragging excessively causing lack of power and poor fuel economy. There are no codes and everything else checks out okay, the brakes function fine. Is there anything on these cars that would cause brake drag after a new brake install? I just want to ensure there isn't something I can do before I bring it to the Toyota dealer.
View 10 RepliesMy daily route includes the following road segment,
5 km steep climb (30 mph, 50 kph)
3 km fast downhill (60 mph, 100 kph)
4 km fast climb (45 mph, 70 kph)
6 km steep downhill (40 mph, 65 kph)
The speed between parentheses is the traffic flow speed for each segment.
Even though I tried varying the driving speeds and styles, a constant problem I have is , Before starting the final descent, my battery is almost full. Half way down the hill the battery fills up and the engine brake kicks in, which means energy is wasted.
1. Will the battery be affected in time by the fact that it fills up to 80% repeatedly?
2. If I drain the battery on the last climb by slowing down and switching to electric and then fully recharge it on the descent (and avoid engine braking), will this reduce the battery's life span?
I notice on my MFD that my battery level never fills up to the top. I've seen purple when it's low, blue, and green when it's in a high charge state, but there's always a missing 'never filled in' space for another bar, though always blank.
I can let off the gas downhill with it already green and that blank space for an extra green bar never fills. It just stays blank. Is this normal?
Basically, about 3 weeks ago I noticed some problems with my 04 Prius. It has 72k miles on the clock. The exhaust was making a farting sound. I have since diagnosed this as a hole in the back box which I promptly replaced. But the real problem is the power.
When driving in electric mode, the car runs as normal. But when I press down on the gas just a little more to the point where the ICE kicks in, it doesn't give as much power as it used to. For example, in electric mode, cruising at 30mph and achieving 99.9mpg, I'd press the pedal down about half an inch. Where this used to kick the ICE in and show 60mpg+ (with the engine charging the battery and providing power to the wheels), it now shows about 30mpg. When I press the pedal a further half inch, it would normally show 35-45mpg, but now reads 16-25mpg. And when its fully depressed, it used to show 12-16mpg but now barely hits double figures and averages about 6.7mpg. Even on highways when I've achieved 60mph and gently ease off the pedal to maintain speed or really slowly increase, I used to achieve 60-70mpg but now I'd be lucky if it makes it to 40.
I also noticed that it produces considerably less pulling power than it used to. Almost as if the engine is really struggling, even when gently pressing the pedal and accelerating from 30mph upwards. This is having a large effect on my overall fuel consumption. I get so scared that I'm wasting too much fuel that I drive really conservatively now.
My wife and I just purchased a 2012 SEL front-wheel drive. Our first tank (mixed use) was 19 MPG. We took the vehicle on a roadtrip this weekend that was 95% highway driving on mostly flat Texas roads using cruise control as much as possible. Our best tank was 23.3 which was achieved driving 70-75 MPH on I-20. Is this consistent with what others are seeing? My mileage figures are at the link below. Note, all values are calculated by me, not the MFD that reads about 1 MPG high.
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I have a 92 Dodge Spirit 2.5L non turbo. I have been getting horrible fuel mileage. Around 17. I have given it a full tune up, including replaced the distributor and hall effect sensor. Why my fuel economy is shot?
View 3 RepliesWas looking to get some input on possible reasons why I'm getting bad fuel economy. I have a 2003 Jetta TDI with 335 000kms and over the past few months have gone from roughly 1000km/tank (5.3l/100km) to about 700kms per tank (6.7l/100km). The cars timing is spot on. I've changed the air filter. Checked intercooler and maf all of which seem to be fine. I have a VCDS and have gone through many of the values and everything seems to be running fine except for excess pressure.
The map reading is spiking to 2500mbar at about 2800 rpm under full load. Specs on the vagcom say it should be around 2000mbar max. Power is fine and its not smoking other than on start up which on cold morning ( everyone morning here in Canada) seems to stutter quite a bit while idling for the first minute or two. I realize winter gas along with winter tires etc can equate for quite a bit of fuel economy loss but i just cant see losing 300kms / tank.
I recently bought a 1983 Ford Ranger Diesel pickup truck (2.2L Mazda engine, manual transmission). The dealer said to expect a little above 30 mpg on fuel mileage but the two fill-ups I've done show an average fuel mileage of 22 mpg. About half of these are highway miles.
I thought diesels are supposed to have good mileage. Is this typical for my year and model truck? Is there any way to increase the mileage? I just replaced the air and fuel filters and also changed the oil and oil filters.
I own a 2000 Jetta VR6 5 speed. Car has over 300,xxxkm on it, with documented maintenance including chains within the past 12k. Car has intake, 2.5" resonated exhaust, stock software.
I have recently noticed that the car has a cold start issue. Its winter here in Canada, so in the morning when i go to start the car and let it warm up for a couple minutes, the idle is choppy at first and then evens out at around 900-1k rpm. If i try to blip the throttle, or even hold it (half way or WOT) the car just wants to bog out, EXTREMELY rough idle. It will eventually, after about 2 mins of idling, go away and i can drive.
I have absolutely no issue with allowing the car to idle for a few mins to warm up, but i know for a fact that whether a car is cold or not, it should be able to rev freely.
I also have horrible fuel milage. I use 91 octane, and average about 250-300km per tank. 70% city 30% hwy driving.
The following parts have been replaced in the past 1200 to try and resolve the issue
OE Mass air flow sensor
OE spark plugs
BREMI wires
OE Bosch front O2 sensor
I have scanned the car several times, which led me to change the parts i did. Only had a CEL once and it was for the front O2 sensor which i just replaced. Any other codes were for random multiple and a cat efficiency fault. Again those were fault found off a GFF test done at VW, they were not enough to trigger a CEL, but i still changed the parts.
I just bought my first diesel truck back in November. It's a 2005 F-250 with the 6.0L and the 5 spd torq-shift automatic tranny. Last weekend I drove the truck to South Carolina, about a 600 mile round trip from where I live. On the trip the truck only got 13 mpg! I wasn't towing a trailer and the truck was empty except for me and my suitcase. It's not loaded up with mods or anything, it's completely stock power wise.
I'm extremely disappointing, especially since a friend of mine has a 2006 F-250 identical to mine and he gets up to 21 mpg on his. What can be done to improve my mileage? I'm not a lead-footed driver, and the trip was done with almost all interstate and highway driving, very little driving on back roads or stop and go. If this is the best the truck will get, I'm going to sell it and buy a F-150!
I have a 97' hyundai tiburon, I have multiple misfires that are p301 302 304 and rich airflow. I have changed the coil pack, spark plugs and wires, and the MAF sensor. Basically my car doesn't accelerate fast or go over 40(max), it putters when i try to accelerate.
View 1 RepliesMy Jeep Commander 2006 (a problem vehicle until i had it repaired/much replaced by non-dealer service center, i.e., i know that these are 'finicky' cars on their best days), the engine light comes on steadily/not flashing indicating poor quality fuel. It did this 60mi after this last fill up at the gas station, and it did so after 60mi following the previous fill up. The engine light then goes off -as Jeep told me it would - after driving it about 60-70miles. this happened a couple of times last summer as well. I've tried going to different gas stations in the area thinking different stations would have different fuel suppliers, but what i noticed is that BP and Sunoco for example are getting delivery from same truck. ?: how can i determine quality of gas before I put it into tank? I always put in premium but it doesn't matter what the label says if the quality isn't any good.
View 7 RepliesI have read many different threads regarding the TPS sensor on the pedal and EBPV deletes on the E99 7.3L Powerstrokes. I am trying to troubleshoot some issues with my E99 7.3L. Usually on cool mornings and after not being started for awhile the truck will seem to be stuck in an Idle. This is an intermittent problem that doesn't always happen.
I cleaned the connections to the Tps and the IVS sensor and put them back in. No luck. On another note I am also seeing a reduction in fuel mileage and power like the truck is being restricted. I don't know if these symptoms are related or possibly their own issues. I am troubleshooting and possibly thinking it is the EBPV system that isn't working correctly. Considering doing an EBPV delete with a NON-EBPV Pedestal and Flange.
My7.3 is idling rough till I pull the fuse for the fuel pump them it will smoothen out I ran a by pass switch to us my truck but the fuel mileage is bad why
View 13 RepliesI've wondered why our cars make those burping sounds when you let off the throttle.
Example the new Ferrari P4/5 in this video does it a lot : [URL] .....
What the technical reason this happens?
The TigWig runs great, tonight on my way home from work the MFD tells me to stop and check the coolant level. I stop and check the level and it is below minimum but still some in the expansion tank. On the trans side of the engine there is coolant on top of the transmission. I return to work to top off the coolant, everything is back to normal. The temp gauge never exceeded normal operating temperature. Half way home low coolant warning is displayed again. Temperature still never above normal. I top off the coolant again. It seems the Tiguan is burping coolant out of a flange or sensor port. It burps and then reseals. Mileage on the TigWig just hit 148k.
View 6 RepliesI replaced a cracked radiator with a new one on my 2000 model B2500 a coupla' days ago, guessing at the refill, as I just got the truck and don't have a manual. Guestimate was pretty close, but I got some weirdness from the temp gauge for a bit. Temp gauge read cold (even though it was maybe sixty degrees outside) after idling for quite a bit, but would rise to operating temp if I ran the RPM's up a bit, then fall back to cold when I let it drop back down to idle.....never rose to above normal operating temperature, though.
I took a short drive down the road, stayed at normal temp, but dropped back down to cold when I parked it. Taking a peek under the hood, had air blowing out into the resevoir, bubbling like bathtub farts. All appears to be normal today, but I've gotta' take this truck for a roadtrip in a coupla' days and would like to make sure I ain't missed a step that'll send me hikin'.
What is the process of burping the radiator so's I can be sure it's all good?
I took my 2008 Prius to Jiffy Lube to have oil changed. When driving away, I made it about one block and all warning lights came on: Master Warning, Hybrid System Warning, Brake System Warning, Malfunction, etc. I pulled the car over and stopped. I started the car again, lights still there - drove 2 blocks back to Jiffy Lube and lost momentum about one block away, with pedal to floor, I could drive about 5 miles an hour into the bay. They looked at it for about 30 minutes and claimed I had bird seed that dropped under the air filter.... I said "goodbye" called AAA and had it towed to my dealer. They said it was because air had entered the system due to my being low on fuel. I have never heard of being low on fuel and it causing the car to shut down nor did I ever get a warning of low gas, still on one bar. Each time I restarted the car at Jiffy Lube, it started fine, drove forward or backward, then lost momentum again. Still no warning of being out of gas. The ticket from the dealer states:
"Vehicle low on fuel causing ECU to shut down fuel injectors when engine started to misfire. Found codes P0A0F, P3190 in system. Added 5 gallons of fuel and reset ECU."
I have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
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