Prius (2004-09) :: Transmission Malfunction - Started Juddering When Tried To Accelerate
May 28, 2015
I got a problem this morning my car was juddering when I tried to accelerate my Toyota Prius 2004. When it's over 40MPH the car runs smoothly. After few hours it increased and now its jerking and juddering big time. Also when my car is moving the "Traction Control light" flashed even on dry tar roads. When I try to run from the battery the car runs smoothly at any speed. Also on neutral, the car idles fine and no juddering. Since few months I felt like the clutch plates are slipping and engine revs high than normal only when it's running on gas. Seems to be okay on battery.
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2005 prius battery is not charging . Then check engine light /problem light came on . The vehicle started sputtering and would not accelerate over 25 mph.
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Today, we got a flat tire, so went to put spare on. The jack bent when we jacket it up..so had to borrow jack from neighbor. Once we got the spare on, it made a funny noise..on the way home, it wouldn't drive over 22 MPH, and once we replaced the original tire (got a new one/fixed), the car started to accelerate and brake itself!! It was definitely not normal. And there was no resistance to the pedal or floor mat interference.
I believe it was a computer problem? Anyways, when you hit the brake (cause it was going so fast) you could hear the engine strain as it groaned to a stop. Got the car home and in the garage for the night..That was work in itself, not driving it through the wall! Arranged to get the Prius towed to Toyota in the morning..see what they can do. It's intermittent when it does this, and very weird.
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When my 06 Forester was still under warrantee I brought it to the dealer to diagnose a "stutter" in the transmission after I had slowed down to about 10mph to turn onto a street and started to accelerate. They could not find anything wrong and so I have lived with it until recently when I decided to try the local tranny shop that has a good reputation. They could not find any problem although at first they thought it might be engine related (mass air flow sensor), but that was ok.
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My transmission failed on me again last night, truck won't move (I still seem to have reverse). Was cruising down the road at 85km/h and Trans Failure came up with a P0720 (OSS sensor Cct.) and P0722 (output shaft speed sensor no signal) codes. The first time I only got a P0721 code.
This is the second time in 6 months. Last time I spend 3200 to get it rebuilt locally. i don't do any towing, I don't spin my tires etc. and I haven't taken it off pavement since it was rebuilt so I'm not sure why this is happening. I baby my truck.
I have the 4R70E in the truck now, will the 4R100 fit? It's suppose to be a heavier duty tranny correct? Where I can get one and if not where I could send mine to have it reinforced?
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I began hearing a whining/humming sound just a couple of days ago esp when hitting 45mph and then would notice as I took my foot off of gas. I had hoped it was either tire or bearing related, but Toyota tried for over an hour and finally determined it was transmission related..a new transaxle assy etc would cost a total of 6500$. However, they said they did not think I had to do anything right now as everything is well lubricated..they even thought it could remain the way it is for a year to two. My Prius has 180,000miles on it. Should I attempt to find a salvage transaxle and risk having it put in? Or should I cut my losses and given up?
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From time to time, and always unpredictably, the transmission acts up. When starting from a stop the car will not accelerate normally, putting me in jeopardy. Also, shifting automatically is a problem.
I tried shifting through the gears and got mixed and unacceptable shifting. Depressing the accelerator only increases the RPM, the speed hardly at all.
Is this a problem in the transmission or in some electrical control of the transmission?
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I was plowing and when I put it in reverse it felt like it slipped, but then the dash message trans malfunction came up. I checked the codes and I got P0722 output shaft speed sensor.
Code P0720 (oss) sensor circuit fault
Then the truck went into safe mods. Is it just the sensor or is my reverse going out...
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2006 F150 FX4 5.4L, 118k miles... At highway speeds (45-50) and (55-60) as I am slightly accelerating it feels like the transmission or maybe ignition system is skipping a beat. Kind of feels like a small bump. I replaced spark plugs with motocraft about 35K miles ago and recently all transmission fluid via cooler line. Had some concerns about system flush so I just drained and refilled entire system via cooler lines. I have read that it could be my COP's ...
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I've had this happen to my car lots and lots of times and taken it to Vw about 10 times to get it checked out and they always say nothings come up
When I start my car it runs perfectly fine, but later on it starts to shake and feels like the car wants to turn itself off.
I first thought it was to do with cold starts but it's happen in all sorts of temperatures, sometimes i've driven the car for 10 miles and the engine is at 90 degrees but it still happens.
Videos bellow show what happens.
The car is a 1.6 TDI ...
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I just bought my 2007 GX470 last Friday. Last night I drove it home in the season's first snowstorm. I've got plenty of experience with winter driving and Toyotas, so I thought I knew what to expect.
I dropped down to 3rd gear for a long hill and the transmission or engine started surging. It would hold at 1100 rpm, then suddenly jump to 1400rpm when my foot was not even on the gas. Then it would drop back to 1100 again.
The car has 78000 miles on it.
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I have only done 15000 motorway miles in my 2009 V6 TDI and seem to have a slight juddering feeling when braking. I am sure it did it for a day so a few months ago and disappeared - issue reappeared today. Wonder if it is warped discs? Car has been stood for 2 weeks.
Braking is fine and efficient it is as though you have that shuddering you get when ABS cuts in. Drove 500 miles this weekend and problem still there.
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I have an 04 MDX it has over 100k on it, and about the time it was approaching that milestone, the transmission started "hesitating" when shifting into overdrive.... then it began to try to shift into overdrive way to early driving in town.... and it felt like we were riding across rumble strips every time it would do this.....We have found out.... that if we do not move the transmission selector lever into the overdrive position, but leave it in D4 [thus manually avoiding the overdrive] it does just fine....
We just suffer in the gas mileage dept., but it does not feel like the transmission is going to fall out while riding in town....My question is; is there a way to disconnect or disable the overdrive so that no matter what gear someone puts it in, it will not try to shift into overdrive by itself.When I am driving it; it is not an issue, I remember to not use overdrive every time; but when the wife or the children drive, they sometimes forget, and I am afraid it is going to do real damage beyond low gas mileage......
I have heard that this is a common problem with this vehicle, and that replacing the transmission is a very short-lived solution, as the problem is design related and will eventually happen again.
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We had a terrible grinding/juddering on front wheels when turning which did disappear after driving for a few minutes most times, what the problem might be?
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My 2004 Prius won't start for the first time in its 45,000 miles. First try only the malfunction indicator lamp went on. After a pause and a few tries later, the fuel gauge and gear indicator cluster flashed on and off while I was attempting to start (fuel indicator racing across its grid and gear indicators outlined with "dotted" lines -- tank is 1/2 full BTW).
Later tries got no response except the malfunction lamp. I tried both keys in the ignition, also checked door lock functions, and found the keys will still lock the doors, but the click is noticeably weak and the unlock function doesn't work.
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 34,000 miles. While I was driving yesterday the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I returned home (was 20 miles away), but did not notice anything wrong while driving. Thanks to Priuschat, I found discussions that said to check if the gas cap was on correctly; sure enough, mine was not on tightly. I've just put the cap back on, but when I started the car, the malfunction indicator still came on. Will the warning light clear on it's own (if the problem was the gas cap).
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My A/c has been on the fritz for a while, and I've just been dealing with sweating in the Florida summer until I had the money to get it fixed. Now this morning I start my car after getting gas, and it throws the dreaded POA80. My fiance's 2004 HV pack just went bad about a month ago, but her's has 236k miles on it. My 2005 is only at 98k. I haven't heard my HV fan kick on in the back seat at all, but it does seem to be having a hard time charging. Is there anyway the dealer is going to try to say that me not getting my A/C fixed is the cause of my faulty HV battery? Is there any way that that is the cause of the pack going bad??
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My transmission started to slip badly and I stopped it immediately and found transmission fluid in the radiator and nothing in the transmission. We replaced the radiator and flushed and refilled everything. It runs great now except it is vibrating every now and then. I'm wondering if the vibration is from running the transmission dry.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 105,000 miles. The transmission (or transfer case) recently started to make a clicking sound. It usually happens in 2 wheel drive mode and gets louder as the car warms up. the clicking sound occurs in all gears except park. It also gets faster with car speed. If the car is put into 4 wheel (full time) mode the sound seems to go away or is not as audible. When you shift back in 2 wheel drive mode the clicking sound comes back.
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Problem and background: for PRIUS 2004 Gen 2 , 157000 km, not getting READY to drive.
1.Warning signals on Power ON, red triangle, yellow color engine, brake, ABS, skidding. Also the PARKING BRAKE RED signal (by the side of seat belt warning signal), does not disappear even if I release the foot brake.
2. Gear can move to N and parking P only, can't move to Drive D or Reverse R. No READY symbol,
3. I left the car in that location in open for a month, during heavy rain. But after coming back , the car had no issue and I was driving for 4 days before this issue started.
what I have tried:
1.Have removed the 12 Volt battery terminals and connected back, just to see if the errors disappear. No change. But did not check the battery voltage or suspect it . disconnected and connected the HV service plug.(orange color lever behind rear passenger seat).
2. Have been switching ON and off the car for 1 full day, First day the local Toyota service (non-prius), came to connect to OBD late evening, he switched on the interior lights and left doors open, within 10-15 minutes the lights started dimming. Before he could pull the information, all shutdown and 12V battery down. his measurement at battery without removing any terminal showed 3.6V.
3. The second day took the battery out and charged at local battery service guy for 6 hrs, he say's charged at 3A, the indicator showed green, that means fully charged, his measurement with no load 12V. After connecting to the car myself, checked the voltage at display by putting to diagnostic mode, showed 12 volts (only with display on) with headlight on and pressing brake drops to 11.6volt. IS THAT OK?
4. The third day got the new battery and replaced, showed the same voltage 12/11.6v, but I can't be 100% sure if that is a brand new battery, the box was open, and since the car didn't start, the battery sales person has taken back the new battery in the same box. I connected back the old battery, it was holding the same voltage. SHOULD I still SUSPECT BATTERY?
5. I can make the READY indication blink twice, if I press hard the brake pedal and hold the POWER button few seconds, during this time I can hear CLICKING NOISE behind at HV BATTERY SERVICE PLUG grip? does that say something?
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Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
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