Prius (2004-09) :: Won't Start - 3 Fuses Blown
Dec 21, 2013
My cousin's 2009 Prius won't start and jump starting did nothing for them. In fact, when they tried it, they got sparks when they hooked up the ground cable and the headlights came on and stayed on the entire time they were attempting to jump it. Try again, and same thing but now I know they didn't go about it incorrectly or anything. There are also at least three blown fuses, I believe she said they corresponded to the smart key system, electronic throttle control (both up front) and then one in the trunk for the hybrid system.
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A dealership is attempting to charge me several hundred dollars to replace blown fuses that they claim is a result of an overpowered attempt at charging a seemingly dead 12V battery. The interesting part is that after also replacing the air/fuel ratio sensor (which they initially claimed was the cause of a check engine light even after replacing the fuses) Toyota is telling them that the ECM should be replaced in order to extinguish the check engine indicator.
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I have a '95 Camry LE with the 2.2L four cylinder. The car ran PERFECT. Went to town today, great. Get in it a few hours after returning, it will turn over but not start. It is getting fuel, no fuses are blown, but is not getting fire.
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We have a fleet of Prius's with 11k miles on them. Windshield wipers don't work and cigarette lighter plugs don't work. I'm guessing this is due to blown fuses. Where the fusebox is? I'm getting fed up with this. Also, is there a diagram somewhere that shows which fuses are for which circuits? (IE Which number fuses protects windshield wiper circuit) so I can finally see in the rain...
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My fog lights were working perfectly but I got the dumb idea that I wanted to turn them yellow. I bought some Hella Yellowstar 55w bulbs and installed them. Fogs worked for a couple of hours then I noticed that they wouldn't turn on. I replaced the 15A fuse and once again it worked fine for a couple of hours before I blew another fuse. Now every time I replace the fuse it blows as soon as I switch the fogs on. Was I correct in thinking that 55w was the wattage of the stock lights? Also I understand that you're not supposed to touch the bulb itself as oil on your fingers will heat up once the light is on and cause this problem. Tomorrow I am going to reinstall the stock bulbs and replace the fuse again and see if they work.
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This morning everything worked on a 1999 Suburban 4x4. One hour later, my blinkers (turn signals) were not working. Flashers were.
I checked the fuse (fuse 16) for the turning signals - blown. I bought some fuses - replaced turn signal fuse. It blew immediately and then the hazards no longer worked. I replaced that fuse and the hazards lasted a few seconds.
Hazards & brake lights are on the same fuse (fuse 1) so I am left with no brake lights, hazards or turn signals - I am an accident waiting to happen!
I switched my cigarette lighter fuse for the hazards/brake light fuse - didn't start the car - and turned on the hazards. I heard the fuse blow immediately.
My husband put a new radio in last year at this time and has fog lights wired to it - but that was last year not last week...
I know trailer lights are attached to fuse 16 (turn signals). I bought this car used, but it does have a trailer hitch with wires that I have never used.
Where to even start looking for the short... a short that would cause the hazards/brake lights to short out also.
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Just had car in for inspection/oil change. now car starts but can't shift out of park and no horn, brake lights, radio, gas gauge, odometer, etc.
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4 days ago, my '04 Chevy Aveo (89,300 miles) would not shift out of park and no brake lights were coming on. I had to use the shift lock release to start the car in neutral, and I took it to dealer. Dealer replaced the brake switch. One day later, the problem returned. I took back to dealer, and they showed me that the light blue "15" stop fuse (the right column of fuses, second one down) had blown. They replaced. It again worked for a day, and the problem came back. Each time I put a new 15 fuse in now, it works temporarily, but now fries either immediately or within an hour. In order to drive, I still have to use the shift lock release, which isn't great, because it means I have to drive without brake lights.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
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A couple years ago my car got stuck in Park, in which I had discovered my brake lights and a few other electrical fuses blew at the same time. It has happened randomly about 4-5 other times since, in which I take it back to the dealership and they "fix it" temporarily. After about a 1 1/2 years of no trouble, it happened again, and the dealership traced it back to the GEM module, which they replaced for me. Electrical components I forgot I had (like automatic locking doors) came back- for about a week. I got stuck in Park again, lost my break lights, as well as some other functions. I haven't noticed this problem on the focus with other discussions. Now it has added to much time in the shop, multiple FORD dealerships unable to fix it properly, and lots of wasted money. Shouldn't a new electrical unit fix the problem?
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I did a bad thing last night, I put a jumper in the 20 amp cigar/data link connector and all kinds of things went out, will not shift out of park, no directional, power windows, power mirrors, no brake lights ,no hazards, no wipers, no interior lights and I don't know what ever else is not working.
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Owner's manual says under the steering wheel but I don't see a compartment anywhere (the center console outlet is dead; I assume it's a fuse).
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So I bought two new HID bulbs for my 2007 prius. Mostly it had been the left one that turned off after a while. So i put a new bulb in and it goes out after about 10 seconds. So i put the other new bulb in and it goes out after 10 seconds too.
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So... have a 2010 Prius V, about 80,000 miles.
Tried to start it this morning and got a "Check Hybrid System". No start. Brought it to the local Toyota mega dealer here in Lakeland, FL. (They were pretty organized and on things, so I was pretty impressed.)
Anyway, just got a call back and it's a junction block fuse that was blown. Questions I have are
1) What is this a fuse for? The actual hybrid battery?
2) Where is it located, and
3) (the EE in me) Doesn't something usually cause this fuse to blow?
Dealer will attempt to replace fuse and drive it around to see if it's fixed, but something typically causes fuses to blow.
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I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
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2009 Prius with 115,000 miles. I've had to replace one or other of my headlight bulbs four times in the past six months. This is becoming a real PITA. Is there a known cause (and fix)?
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Got flagged by a fellow driver, and told both tail lights were out; I had no dashboard warning light. Headlights were on, blinkers worked, brake lights worked. This is a small deal, but I was surprised; is there really no warning for this (2006 mid-package), or is something else the matter?
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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(CORRECTION: AM1 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
(Correction 2: Update 6/3/2014 AM-2 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
What caused my shutdown and the ECU-IG fuse to blow while driving normally? I want to get educated prior to the dealer's response.
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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I've had it happen a few times over the past few years (07 Pri) that when I have to brake really hard, the front lower dash 12V lighter outlet fuse blows. Seemed odd at the time but when I replaced the fuse and everything came back to life I kind of forgot about it.
Today we had a crazy idiot try the mad dash across 4 lanes of traffic and that of course made all cars slam on their brakes. Wouldn't say it was a ABS type slam but certainly hard braking.
Anyway, I heard the chime of a 12V device powering off and a bit later we noticed the MFD, radio, and clock were all off. Probably everything cut out at the same time but obviously attention was on the traffic not the electronics.
I saw some people mention that is the ACC fuse which I'm about to go and check on, but what is causing this. Just seems odd that hard braking causes such electrical issues. Wouldn't think there would be an overlap in systems but maybe?
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